Started layering up the glass today, coming along nicely.
Any recommendations in regards to fairing? I have a fair bit of west system epoxy left over, I'm assuming there's a fairing compound I could use?
Mate me personally, if it was my boat (actually I'm about to do similar to mine but on a smaller scale), I wouldn't bother. I plan on building the layers of glass up a mill or 2 higher then the surrounding area and sanding back flush. Then touch up with anti-foul straight over the top.
As somebody said earlier, the water over that part of the hull is turbulant anyway for no effect on performance, and cosmetically, you won't notice.
Looking good though
36 grit flapper wheel or 36 grit sanding disc in a mini grinder. I would fair with epoxy and micro balloons mixed to toothpaste consistency.
Started layering up the glass today, coming along nicely.
Any recommendations in regards to fairing? I have a fair bit of west system epoxy left over, I'm assuming there's a fairing compound I could use?
How much thickness have you built up in the area immediately surrounding where the crack is?
I still see areas of the hull where you have ground into the glass when you removed the anti foul, you will need to replace that glass there as well and build it up a little higher than the gel coat was originally just as Toph has suggested.
Whatever you do, do NOT grind into the corner of the hull/keel joint, otherwise you will undo a lot of your work as that fillet is now helping the hull strength in that area.
If you need to fair, as stated previously mix some Cabasil or Q-cells into your West resin till you have a nice stiff mixture and screed it on and when its gone completely off, paint some resin over the entire repair before anti fouling.
Now go and do the inside of the hull.
Started layering up the glass today, coming along nicely.
Any recommendations in regards to fairing? I have a fair bit of west system epoxy left over, I'm assuming there's a fairing compound I could use?
How much thickness have you built up in the area immediately surrounding where the crack is?
I still see areas of the hull where you have ground into the glass when you removed the anti foul, you will need to replace that glass there as well and build it up a little higher than the gel coat was originally just as Toph has suggested.
Whatever you do, do NOT grind into the corner of the hull/keel joint, otherwise you will undo a lot of your work as that fillet is now helping the hull strength in that area.
If you need to fair, as stated previously mix some Cabasil or Q-cells into your West resin till you have a nice stiff mixture and screed it on and when its gone completely off, paint some resin over the entire repair before anti fouling.
Now go and do the inside of the hull.
Have built up around 6-7mm around the keel/hull joint
I'm aware I have to build up the glass a little further, will be doing this tomorrow.
Is there anything specifically I should be doing between applications in the way of prepping? Light sand or just wipe clean?
Yes FR it was Catalyst. Interesting observation and conclusion. Does that mean my dinghy's less likely to get pinched these days ???.
The inside of the hull is very important. There is a clear stress concentration at the point of failure, and you need to taper the reinforcing in the direction away from the keel. But first you need to thicken the hull/keel joint, and that is best done internally.