I source alot of aluminium from Capral and keep their "Little Green Book" handy
www.capral.com.au/
Select to expand quotesirgallivant said..
Well man, l tried to help you giving an almost step by step way of doing it, with what, and why, and you are still thinking of 1.6mm wall thickness?
The 50mm tubes OUTSIDE dia is 50mm, the inside one is 44, so you might need some packing.
Hi Sirgallivant
You suggested using 50mm 3mm tube but the 50mm (and 60 mm for that matter) ronstan ends will only fit into 2 mm wall thickness tube without taking the grinder to them
Regards Don
Select to expand quoterumblefish said..
Hey Don,
50 x 3mm ally will be heaps on your boat using RF1661.
The easiest way to break a pole is by having the topping lift attach to a single point in the middle, so use a bridle with an SS ring in the middle.
No here's a hint....
Make it longer than you think because there is a trick I learnt in WA to make your whisker pole variable length.
Don't attach the inboard end to the mast, instead use a spare halyard and run the end through your spinnaker ring on the mast and attach to the inboard end of the pole. Start with about a foot or more passing through the ring.
Once the pole is up and all connected you can then adjust its length by adjusting the halyard attached the the inboard end of the pole!
Works a treat!!
I,m struggling to picture this in action ......all i,m seeing is the pole flying around banging on the mast ??????
Select to expand quoteSandS said..rumblefish said..
Hey Don,
50 x 3mm ally will be heaps on your boat using RF1661.
The easiest way to break a pole is by having the topping lift attach to a single point in the middle, so use a bridle with an SS ring in the middle.
No here's a hint....
Make it longer than you think because there is a trick I learnt in WA to make your whisker pole variable length.
Don't attach the inboard end to the mast, instead use a spare halyard and run the end through your spinnaker ring on the mast and attach to the inboard end of the pole. Start with about a foot or more passing through the ring.
Once the pole is up and all connected you can then adjust its length by adjusting the halyard attached the the inboard end of the pole!
Works a treat!!
I,m struggling to picture this in action ......all i,m seeing is the pole flying around banging on the mast ??????
The force the head sail imparts on the pole is not directly towards the mast but is a twisting motion somewhat.
I was sceptical the first time I saw it, but it does work
Yes, Don, that is exactly what l mean. Rimming the pole's inside end and grinding a tad off the ronstan's dia will do a perfect fit. It would not take an hour to do the lot.
You going to end up with a well made proper whisker pole. No more anxiety.
Select to expand quotesirgallivant said..
Yes, Don, that is exactly what l mean. Rimming the pole's inside end and grinding a tad off the ronstan's dia will do a perfect fit. It would not take an hour to do the lot.
You going to end up with a well made proper whisker pole. No more anxiety.
Rimming, really? What other dubious talents do you possess ...errr .... not that I am interested.
Select to expand quoteLooseChange said..sirgallivant said..
Yes, Don, that is exactly what l mean. Rimming the pole's inside end and grinding a tad off the ronstan's dia will do a perfect fit. It would not take an hour to do the lot.
You going to end up with a well made proper whisker pole. No more anxiety.
Rimming, really? What other dubious talents do you possess ...errr .... not that I am interested. Oh dear !!
Your rather childish reaction is more than disappointing! You act like a bunch of ten year olds
while l am talking about a well known industrial process:
"..... rimming the inside of a slowly rotating cylinder partially filled with liquid..."(wikipedia)
".....Rimmed Steel: A low-carbon steel that meets the following parameters:...."(wikipedia)
"....The Heritage Piazza Small Rimmed Bowl is a functional Bowl, ideal for rice, side dishes..."
(wkikpedia)
Not 'reamed' but rimmed. Just for your anally preoccupied minds!
Strewth!
Select to expand quotesirgallivant said..
Your rather childish reaction is more than disappointing! You act like a bunch of ten year olds
while l am talking about a well known industrial process:
"..... rimming the inside of a slowly rotating cylinder partially filled with liquid..."(wikipedia)
".....Rimmed Steel: A low-carbon steel that meets the following parameters:...."(wikipedia)
"....The Heritage Piazza Small Rimmed Bowl is a functional Bowl, ideal for rice, side dishes..."
(wkikpedia)
Not 'reamed' but rimmed. Just for your anally preoccupied minds!
Strewth!
In the spirit of clarification, perhaps you could provide a link to the Wikipedia definition of rimming.
Particles or objects close to the rim of a container could be described as rimming the container.
ps: think you mean reaming 
regards,
Allan
Select to expand quoteSandS said..rumblefish said..
Hey Don,
50 x 3mm ally will be heaps on your boat using RF1661.
The easiest way to break a pole is by having the topping lift attach to a single point in the middle, so use a bridle with an SS ring in the middle.
No here's a hint....
Make it longer than you think because there is a trick I learnt in WA to make your whisker pole variable length.
Don't attach the inboard end to the mast, instead use a spare halyard and run the end through your spinnaker ring on the mast and attach to the inboard end of the pole. Start with about a foot or more passing through the ring.
Once the pole is up and all connected you can then adjust its length by adjusting the halyard attached the the inboard end of the pole!
Works a treat!!
I,m struggling to picture this in action ......all i,m seeing is the pole flying around banging on the mast ??????
Thanks rumble for the tip!
The idea will work for me, the whisker pole is too long, but of course it's handy to have it longer. I hadn't thought of having it sit off to the side. With a fore and aft guy, it does flop around a little at the inboard end(i can run a line to stop that in any case) but is minimal and as you say should improve with the sail up, cheers
I think "rimming the pole" was a line spoken by Midshipman Albert Poop-Decker in "Carry on Jack".
Apologies to Sirgallivant , but us Poms can't resist a childish double entendre whether we're 10 or 80.
Bristol
??
No doubt Capt Pugwash probably made a similar comment to Master Bates, who in turn would have passed the order onto Roger the cabin boy.
Select to expand quoteBlueMoon said..SandS said..rumblefish said..
Hey Don,
50 x 3mm ally will be heaps on your boat using RF1661.
The easiest way to break a pole is by having the topping lift attach to a single point in the middle, so use a bridle with an SS ring in the middle.
No here's a hint....
Make it longer than you think because there is a trick I learnt in WA to make your whisker pole variable length.
Don't attach the inboard end to the mast, instead use a spare halyard and run the end through your spinnaker ring on the mast and attach to the inboard end of the pole. Start with about a foot or more passing through the ring.
Once the pole is up and all connected you can then adjust its length by adjusting the halyard attached the the inboard end of the pole!
Works a treat!!
I,m struggling to picture this in action ......all i,m seeing is the pole flying around banging on the mast ??????
Thanks rumble for the tip!
The idea will work for me, the whisker pole is too long, but of course it's handy to have it longer. I hadn't thought of having it sit off to the side. With a fore and aft guy, it does flop around a little at the inboard end(i can run a line to stop that in any case) but is minimal and as you say should improve with the sail up, cheers
No prob :) should flop round less with force from the sail.
For the spirit of clarification, all three of the above quotes are from wikipedia!
Google it!
Besides, the technique, suggested by Rumblefish, is not a solution one could set and go below leaving the sails taking care of themselves.
It is a temporary measure and must be constantly and closely monitored in case of even the slightest change of wind direction or sea-state.
It can cause mayhem in a flash. Tried it once but never again. as it is not a solution for a single handed sailor.
Select to expand quotesirgallivant said..
For the spirit of clarification, all three of the above quotes are from wikipedia!
Google it!
Besides, the technique, suggested by Rumblefish, is not a solution one could set and go below leaving the sails taking care of themselves.
It is a temporary measure and must be constantly and closely monitored in case of even the slightest change of wind direction or sea-state.
It can cause mayhem in a flash. Tried it once but never again. as it is not a solution for a single handed sailor.
In the spirit of clarification.....
"..... rimming the inside of a slowly rotating cylinder partially filled with liquid..."(wikipedia)
This reference pertains to the action of particles located close to the inside of a slowly rotating cylinder partially filled with liquid. The author chose to describe the location of those particles as 'rimming', to indicate their propinquity to the inner surface of the containing vessel.
The discussion is entirely unrelated to any industrial process.
".....Rimmed Steel: A low-carbon steel that meets the following parameters:...."(wikipedia)
This reference relates to the physical characteristics of a steel which has been intentionally processed to have a low carbon content.
It has nothing to do with an operation to remove material from the inside of an aluminium tube to alter its internal diameter.
"....The Heritage Piazza Small Rimmed Bowl is a functional Bowl, ideal for rice, side dishes..." (wkikpedia)
This reference describes a bowl with a small rim - that is, the outer edge of a container.
It has nothing to do with an operation to remove material from the inside of an aluminium tube to alter its internal diameter.
The correct term to describe the removal of internal material to produce an accurately rounded hole, or achieve a specific internal diameter is, reaming.
This term is universally used in engineering processes.
The Webster definition of reaming is as follows:
"noun (Mechanical engineering: Manufacturing and assembly)
Reaming is a cutting process in which a cutting tool produces a hole of a very accurate size.
Reaming is done to a hole which has been already drilled, to produce a truly circular hole of exactly the right diameter.
Reaming involves widening the opening of a hole.
Reaming is a cutting process in which a cutting tool produces a hole of a very accurate size. "
www.collinsdictionary.com/dictionary/english/reaming
hope this helps....
best regards,
Allan
When usinga whisker pole, do you find you need to use longer jib sheets, if the usual jib sheets are just long enough when used with no pole?
Select to expand quoteBlueMoon said..
When usinga whisker pole, do you find you need to use longer jib sheets, if the usual jib sheets are just long enough when used with no pole?
Depends on the biggest head sail you run.
If your sheets are long enough for an over lapping head sail then they are probably good
In case of the gennaker l had, with 6.65m foot, which had the clew attached to the bowsprit outside of the fore stay, l had to have a every long sheet (8mm db) because the whole shebang had to go around on the outside, around the fore stay. So it needed trice or more the normal length.
We are talking of a boat 8.76m long.
It was not possible to tack the sail normally, it had to go around on the outside, around itself like the huge code 0's on the VOR boats.
For the genoa I used a single length of continuous 8mm spectra sheet.
The poling out of the genny needs a fair bit more sheet and when goose winged double headsails are used this is doubling the demand for sheets.
It stands to reason that a goosewinged sail needs much more sheet to let the foot run perpendicular to the axle of the boat or even more forward, in an obtuse angle, sometimes.
The leading of the sheets back, almost to the transom to the turning blocks, should be calculated as well.
I used a barber hauler to control the sheets. This is a cruising set up, one seldom sees this kind of sail control on racers or day sailers.
After reading this post it made me pull my finger out & make my whisker pole - I drew up a sketch of what I wanted ages ago.
Capral have a new website for ordering aluminium online (www.capral.com.au/) & it was very easy to get the materials - if you pick up they also do one cut for free.
Pics are here: www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.2370936922918857&type=1&l=aae34d13ea
Fully extended = 6.6 mts - fully retracted = 4.1 mts
I had sheaves & blocks etc and pvc pipe lying around so all I had to buy was the al tubing & the two beaks!!
I don't understand why you need a whisker pole longer than 3.5 meters unless you have a deck sweeper low cut headsail or lightweight scretcher that's massive. I fire up the Perkins when the wind drops below 10 knots.
Hi Lazzz
Well done with making the pole
I am still farting around deciding what I am going to do and now the racing season is over there is no urgency until October comes
I had a bit of a muck round the other day when it was light and goose winged using my existing spinnaker pole clipped onto one of the shrouds which was about 800 from the mast and it held the genoa out beautifully so it looks like i need to make one roughly a meter longer than the existing pole
Regards Don
Hi Lazz
Thanks for the link and they have a branch in Hobart
I know what i need i just need to stop mucking about and do something about it
Regards Don
Heading home on Monday. Top section of a a Windsurfer mast, pole ends off my old Flying Dutchman. Inboard end attached to the jumper strut rings on the mast. topping lift attached but did not bother adjusting, usually don't bother attaching. Another whisker pole on the deck very similar but slightly shorter.
The alloy and temper make a big difference to the strength.
I was hoping to make something lighter than the spinnaker pole that came with the boat, 80mm x 2mm. I made a 4.2m pole from 50 x 2mm last year, but this folded in two after some clumsy handling by yours truly. On further investigation, I discovered that the tube I bought from Capral was 6060/T591, which was probably the worst choice. The best material would be 6061/T6, or 6082, but these don't seem to be available in a suitable size,
6060/T5 is significantly stronger than 6060/T591, and my next attempt will be 60x2 in 6060/T5.
Select to expand quoteQLDCruiser said..
The alloy and temper make a big difference to the strength.
I was hoping to make something lighter than the spinnaker pole that came with the boat, 80mm x 2mm. I made a 4.2m pole from 50 x 2mm last year, but this folded in two after some clumsy handling by yours truly. On further investigation, I discovered that the tube I bought from Capral was 6060/T591, which was probably the worst choice. The best material would be 6061/T6, or 6082, but these don't seem to be available in a suitable size,
6060/T5 is significantly stronger than 6060/T591, and my next attempt will be 60x2 in 6060/T5.
Not sure of the numbers but you need to buy hard drawn aluminium tube.
Select to expand quoteQLDCruiser said..
The alloy and temper make a big difference to the strength.
I was hoping to make something lighter than the spinnaker pole that came with the boat, 80mm x 2mm. I made a 4.2m pole from 50 x 2mm last year, but this folded in two after some clumsy handling by yours truly. On further investigation, I discovered that the tube I bought from Capral was 6060/T591, which was probably the worst choice. The best material would be 6061/T6, or 6082, but these don't seem to be available in a suitable size,
6060/T5 is significantly stronger than 6060/T591, and my next attempt will be 60x2 in 6060/T5.
Hi QLDCruiser,
Can you make up one for me while you are at it. Self tacking jib on the way and a short pole will help off the wind.
