Considering the trouble and effort you have gone to in restoring a 30 year old yacht so far one might assume you are going "all the way".
You will wet sand the topsides to a very smooth finish, buff to a highly reflective finish and then apply a UV resistant polish that will make the yacht "Sparkle".....won't you???? 
Select to expand quotecisco said..
Considering the trouble and effort you have gone to in restoring a 30 year old yacht so far one might assume you are going "all the way".
You will wet sand the topsides to a very smooth finish, buff to a highly reflective finish and then apply a UV resistant polish that will make the yacht "Sparkle".....won't you????
Don't think so Cisco 
this is a once in a life time boat cuddle Cisco for this boat and myself its part of getting to know each other.
My dear old Dad used to tie his draft horses up and drop them to the ground and crawl all over them as part of getting to know each other. (I'm your Boss) and becoming part of the team
He owned a team for twenty two . big gun wheat contractor in 1922 around when ships were made of wood and men of iron 
Im doing the same with the boat
Select to expand quoteHG02 said..
Don't think so Cisco this is a once in a life time boat cuddle Cisco for this boat and myself its part of getting to know each other.
That's alright mate. I was just having a bit of a dig. Any boat that gets used properly always gets the topsides scuffed and knocked about when you come in a little bit hard on a wharf or whatever else.
You are doing a top job. Keep at it. Cheers Cisco.
Spent last night marking out my water line using a builders laser. But hard as had to wait till it was dark to see this laser then mask up as well
Many thanks to another Seabreezer for there help
First coat of primer went on OK
Mixed up far to much primer so it's in the boat fridge hope it's ok in the morning
Select to expand quoteandy59 said..
Jeez HG that's looking great!!!
Here's a pic of my new lazy jacks and boom bag.
I went with a removable sail bag and a mesh lazy jack support so it won't hold water in a big blow.
Andy
Its looks like a conventional sail bag and the mesh lazy jack have you any more close up photo's Andy two items not at all integrated together?
Doesn't suit you boat at all you better send it down to me Andy Ha Ha
Shes looking very sweet Andy
Continued stripping the 30 odd year old paint off my mast... Trying to decide whether to roll or spray the new stuff on
Select to expand quoteChrisJ1978 said..
Continued stripping the 30 odd year old paint off my mast... Trying to decide whether to roll or spray the new stuff on
what paint are you using chris?
I kill rusted mine , DR Rog sanded his back and left it natural with a nasty clear . I dont think Id have enough meat on mine to do that. But I was surprised how little sanding it needed to remove the old anodizing n my mast
I went with kill rust with thw thought any scratches could be touched up easily but talking to Jabberwock his were two pack and have been great for many years
Nyalic is a great product for preserving anything that could be corroded
www.nyalic.com.au/nyalic.com.au/Home.html
Select to expand quoteHG02 said..andy59 said..
Jeez HG that's looking great!!!
Here's a pic of my new lazy jacks and boom bag.
I went with a removable sail bag and a mesh lazy jack support so it won't hold water in a big blow.
Andy
Its looks like a conventional sail bag and the mesh lazy jack have you any more close up photo's Andy two items not at all integrated together?
Doesn't suit you boat at all you better send it down to me Andy Ha Ha
www.seabreeze.com.au/images/forums/icon_smile_wink.gif' />
Shes looking very sweet Andy
Hi Andy,
Just wondering if you are going to install an inner stay and some runners on Impulse for your circumnavigation.
Sorry to take so long to reply to everyone its I excuse really but I was helping deliver this little rocketship back from Gladstone.
Man that photo is caught in upside down world seems like nothing I do will make turn out right side up. HG how do you do it?
Anyway here are some overdue answers with apologies:
Selkie its between 193 and 205 days until departure depending on last minute arrangements etc.
HG you are exactly right its a conventional sail bag inside a mesh base for the lazy jacks. My thinking was that I didn't want something that would hold water in a big sea so the mesh bag attaches to the lazy jacks and the sail bag fits inside. Its not as convenient as a zip up sail bag but it works well for me. I will post some close ups later this week.
Jolene the mast comes out in August and I will install an inner forestay for the storm jib and check stays. I kind of wanted to stay away from running back stays or checkstays under the KISS principle but my rigger (Cookie) who is highly respected is keen for the checkstays. So I will probably go with his advice unless I can convince myself and him that we can do without the checkstays.
The way I see it running back stays or check stays are always vulnerable to an involuntary gybe under self steering. So the extra support they provide is at the cost of an increased risk of a broken boom or even the boom bringing the mast down. I will be using a boom brake so theoretically that should prevent a crash gybe but Murphy's law says that it will fail the one time I need it to work.
Well I still have a few months to make a final decision. Any thoughts?
There you go
by the way I turn my PC upside down and then post photos on sea breeze
Chops bro does not have t as hes a few latitudes away
lookin sweet Andy
Hi Andy,
I was looking at a short rig 34 just recently and it had an inner but no check stays. The stay was attached at about 2/3 down from the mast head to the spreaders, it was also a t-10a section mast (deck stepped)
I'm looking at shifting my runners a little higher than the inner forestay along with going right to the stern to try to get boom clearance. I haven't done the trig yet but it looks promising. A deep reefed main should tack through
Rolled a final coat of the stern so I can refit the rudder tomorrow and then rolled a second coat of perfection primer on the two hull sides.
Ill take as much time as it takes over winter to fair the hull sides on nice days and Rainy days inside finishing off
I have enlarged the cock pit drains
To two inch and will use a couple of true design through hulls fixed the outer hull and either epoxy the cockpit side or use fix tech
I'm worried about hull flex it I epoxied the cock pit side
Still thinking on that one I'll fit them tomorrow
Hi Jolene
I'd be interested see what you finally decide. Are you thinking of having the inner far enough forward to hang a storm jib off?
Nice big cockpit drains HG.
Select to expand quoteandy59 said..
Hi Jolene
I'd be interested see what you finally decide. Are you thinking of having the inner far enough forward to hang a storm jib off?
Nice big cockpit drains HG.
That is correct Andy, The chain plate for the inner stay is 1400mm from the headstem. The problem I have is that the forward bulk head that the inner stay chain plate was attached to is no where near strong enough and it has also de-laminated from the hull and the deck, even the anchor windlass is attached to it and its lucky its still there. I've just got started grinding it all out.
I have calculated that the inner forstay needs to be brought down to 3.960 m from the top of the mast so it parallels the forestay. I can then mount my radome just above it. A few mods to do but that's the plan.
Once the bulk head is repaired I might make a chainplate that incorporates the anchor windlass or
I may end up doing the same as the picture below
Select to expand quoteJolene said..andy59 said..
Hi Jolene
I'd be interested see what you finally decide. Are you thinking of having the inner far enough forward to hang a storm jib off?
Nice big cockpit drains HG.
That is correct Andy, The chain plate for the inner stay is 1400mm from the headstem. The problem I have is that the forward bulk head that the inner stay chain plate was attached to is no where near strong enough and it has also de-laminated from the hull and the deck, even the anchor windlass is attached to it and its lucky its still there. I've just got started grinding it all out.
I have calculated that the inner forstay needs to be brought down to 3.960 m from the top of the mast so it parallels the forestay. I can then mount my radome just above it. A few mods to do but that's the plan.
Once the bulk head is repaired I might make a chainplate that incorporates the anchor windlass or
I may end up doing the same as the picture below
That set up is almost bullet proof. Just need to figure out where the tack will be.
I see there is a baby stay too.
fitted the true design skin fitting and trimmed on off to length and epoxied them in place also filling up a low spot on either side below the two drain which just collects junk and dirt then fitted the rudder forgot my phone so no photos
Here's a photo of the old drains and the low spot under
Select to expand quoteJolene said..
The tack is on the back of the bridle plate.
Excellent!!! Keeps the sail high enough not to catch greenies as they come over the bow.
Select to expand quotecisco said..Jolene said..
The tack is on the back of the bridle plate.
Excellent!!! Keeps the sail high enough not to catch greenies as they come over the bow.
That's a pretty elegant solution right there Jolene. I will be removing my anchor winch and glassing over the openings in the foredeck. I will be running a heavy wire from the stem to a fitting through the foredeck so the whole thing will pull in a straight line but of course that will mean re fitting an anchor winch after the trip could be an issue.
I like how the solution in the photos that Jolene posted looks strong, thanks. I'm very interested in the solutions you decide on. Some comments on the solution in the photos:
* It looks more expensive as there are more rigging terminals, chainplates and toggles required.
* The triangle looks in the way of the foredeck in front of it when the staysail is in use. Maybe more of a concern for me as I have hank on sails. I guess the triangle just lies on the deck when the inner stay is released.
* The windlass position forward looks like it is dropping the chain through a short piece of pipe to the forepeak in front of the vee berth underneath the locker forward of the windlass. I prefer to store the chain lower down and further aft.
So I want to place the windlass further aft where it is out of the way of the inner stay, so that the hawsehole is over the centre of the trapezoid ply over the forward locker underneath the vee berth. Some books and windlass manuals suggest using a pipe. A pipe to direct the chain would be terribly in the way, so it would have to be removed and stowed when not in use. Hinze "The Complete Book of Anchoring and Mooring" says the pipe would have to end 2 feet about the top of the chain, which in practice seems high above the vee berth where I'm concerned I could end up with chain and mud everywhere.
I thought of solution to this: 4 trapezoid pieces of cloth are sewn to form a cover that is attached to underneath the 4 sides of the lip the trapezoid forward vee berth locker lid sits on. It lies on top of the chain when stowed. To deploy the chain, the bedding, vee berth cushions, vee berth forward locker trapezoid plywood locker lid are moved. A circular cover over the underside of the hawsehole is removed. A circular fitting attached to the 4 shortest sides of the 4 cloth pieces is screwed or clipped underneath the hawsehole above to contain the chain into a trapezoidal pyramid. The chain can be pushed down into the locker later.
The motor of a vertical powered windlass would be very much in the way in the vee berth. I think a power horizontal windlass, or a vertical or horizontal manual would work.
Having moved the windlass aft allows using just the 1 fitting for the inner stay. Some ideas for that:
* A fiberglass knee could be attached to the forward bulkhead inside the foredeck locker. The knee is to orientate a straight chainplate in the direction of the inner stay. It may require something beside the edge of the chainplate on deck if the chain catches on it.
* A bulkhead is added near the centreline to divide the forepeak locker (underneath the foredeck locker) in two. A straight chainplate is then bolted to this bulkhead, passing through the aft section of the foredeck locker, and through the deck between the forward bulkhead and the foredeck locker.
I am thinking that I can construct a little bulkhead at the aft section of the vee berth chain locker, with a seacock drain. If I was unlucky to hit something that holed this section, then I could hope that the weight of the water would not push the vee berth below the waterline. It seems I should hinge the lid with some catches and a seal to try to contain the water from splashing out, I'm unsure if it would work.
Edit: Duh, sorry, I just realized my cloth cover over the chain idea is silly as I'm wanting to sleep in the vee berth while anchored, so I would have a section of chain in the middle of the vee berth. I could lead it forward and clip it up to try to get it out of the way so my wife wouldn't complain so much. I could cut out a slot for the chain at the forward side of the trapezoid locker lid to and lead the chain through it to shut the lid (after pushing the cloth down). It is usually suggested to have the anchor ready to be deployed whenever near the coast. This would require moving the sails in the vee berth out of way in addition to the above steps to deploy the anchor. Since it is too many steps to deploy the anchor in a hurry if it is not ready, it would require having a stern anchor and/or a secondary bow anchor ready to deploy.
True design skin fitting epoxied in place .
Just have to finish off fairing the cock pit now
At the moment so far glued in with epoxy high strength glue filler .
I'll finish off with some sanding filler after I've cleaned it up some more
But I'm happy that the old ones are gone on my little boat the starboard side drain was not quiet sitting square now they are and well sealed up
The bottom photo is side ways I'll fix it later
It's all Andys fault
Select to expand quoteHG02 said..
You should plumb your toilet outlet through that hole mate , save drilling more holes in your hull. just stick some hose out there when you use the thunder box.
Select to expand quotesomeday said..
I like how the solution in the photos that Jolene posted looks strong, thanks. I'm very interested in the solutions you decide on. Some comments on the solution in the photos:
* It looks more expensive as there are more rigging terminals, chainplates and toggles required.
* The triangle looks in the way of the foredeck in front of it when the staysail is in use. Maybe more of a concern for me as I have hank on sails. I guess the triangle just lies on the deck when the inner stay is released.
* The windlass position forward looks like it is dropping the chain through a short piece of pipe to the forepeak in front of the vee berth underneath the locker forward of the windlass. I prefer to store the chain lower down and further aft.
So I want to place the windlass further aft where it is out of the way of the inner stay, so that the hawsehole is over the centre of the trapezoid ply over the forward locker underneath the vee berth. Some books and windlass manuals suggest using a pipe. A pipe to direct the chain would be terribly in the way, so it would have to be removed and stowed when not in use. Hinze "The Complete Book of Anchoring and Mooring" says the pipe would have to end 2 feet about the top of the chain, which in practice seems high above the vee berth where I'm concerned I could end up with chain and mud everywhere.
I thought of solution to this: 4 trapezoid pieces of cloth are sewn to form a cover that is attached to underneath the 4 sides of the lip the trapezoid forward vee berth locker lid sits on. It lies on top of the chain when stowed. To deploy the chain, the bedding, vee berth cushions, vee berth forward locker trapezoid plywood locker lid are moved. A circular cover over the underside of the hawsehole is removed. A circular fitting attached to the 4 shortest sides of the 4 cloth pieces is screwed or clipped underneath the hawsehole above to contain the chain into a trapezoidal pyramid. The chain can be pushed down into the locker later.
The motor of a vertical powered windlass would be very much in the way in the vee berth. I think a power horizontal windlass, or a vertical or horizontal manual would work.
Having moved the windlass aft allows using just the 1 fitting for the inner stay. Some ideas for that:
* A fiberglass knee could be attached to the forward bulkhead inside the foredeck locker. The knee is to orientate a straight chainplate in the direction of the inner stay. It may require something beside the edge of the chainplate on deck if the chain catches on it.
* A bulkhead is added near the centreline to divide the forepeak locker (underneath the foredeck locker) in two. A straight chainplate is then bolted to this bulkhead, passing through the aft section of the foredeck locker, and through the deck between the forward bulkhead and the foredeck locker.
I am thinking that I can construct a little bulkhead at the aft section of the vee berth chain locker, with a seacock drain. If I was unlucky to hit something that holed this section, then I could hope that the weight of the water would not push the vee berth below the waterline. It seems I should hinge the lid with some catches and a seal to try to contain the water from splashing out, I'm unsure if it would work.
Edit: Duh, sorry, I just realized my cloth cover over the chain idea is silly as I'm wanting to sleep in the vee berth while anchored, so I would have a section of chain in the middle of the vee berth. I could lead it forward and clip it up to try to get it out of the way so my wife wouldn't complain so much. I could cut out a slot for the chain at the forward side of the trapezoid locker lid to and lead the chain through it to shut the lid (after pushing the cloth down). It is usually suggested to have the anchor ready to be deployed whenever near the coast. This would require moving the sails in the vee berth out of way in addition to the above steps to deploy the anchor. Since it is too many steps to deploy the anchor in a hurry if it is not ready, it would require having a stern anchor and/or a secondary bow anchor ready to deploy.
Thanks for your comments "Someday",
I still haven't finished repairing the bulkhead yet but when do and have decided on the chainplate design, I will post some Pictures. I'm also interested in what Andys got in mind using a tie rod or wire to bear the load of the stay
Hey HG02, can you give me some details on installing the True design through hull fittings? Thinking of replacing some of my brass fittings next haul out, but I'm not sure if I'll have time if its a biggish glassing job.
thanks,
Thanks for the info. I did spend some looking for install details, but I obviously didn't look hard enough.
