Select to expand quoteJonE said..
Oil change. Don't buy the cheap electric transfer pumps, they're c&$p. Managed to spill almost no oil in the bilge but was peeved to get a drop of new oil on one of the cushions..
Lucky it was new oil, used stuff stains like Indian ink ! The 2nd cheap transfer pump I got is a gear pump & works ok but it can't handle straight 40w without warming the engine a bit, for that matter the hand operated vacuum pump couldn't suck it either
In the end couldn't resist the Dyneema sale at RTM so bought some 6 mm for the shrouds and 4mm for lashings.
Three components plus the Dyneema all that is necessary per shroud. I'm only doing the uppers at this stage and they go through a hole in the spreaders which I put about an inch of armored clear food quality water hose through to prevent chafe. Nice snug interference fit.
Once I had the shroud made up I realized that I had forgotten to thread the circular nylon disc on which sits on top of the shroud and is about 60 mm diameter so as to extend beyond the shroud and prevent the shroud chaffing the headsail. Ended up cutting a slot from the perimeter to the center and then filling with epoxy onece on the shroud.
In my haste to get the three splices done and as they were going so well I stupidly forgot that I needed to thread the whole shroud through the spreader hole as well so had to undo the splice of the lashing around the low friction ring. I didn't have enough four millimeter to just cut it and redo it so I undid the splice which was shockingly easy once puckered up and not in tension. Can certainly see why a locking Brummel splice is necessary. A few posts on the internet say that you can't re-splice but re-splicing it went like a charm with the necessary holes evident in the right places and of course the taper already done.
Anyway I left a steel shroud on one side to help see how much creep I'm getting and I've now tensioned it up three times in the yard and each time the Dyneema relaxes and top of the mast tilts over to the steel shroud side. Guess I'll keep going. The dyneema seems to run fairly well through the bow shackle so the absence of a second low friction ring at the bottom adjacent the chain plate doesn't seem to be a bother at least on this size of Dyneema.
I did upsize the dyneema from 5 to 6 to help combat creep so hopefully it will settle in and remain fairly static eventually.
Obviously if you were doing the exercise on a keel boat you wouldn't want to adopt the cavalier spur of the moment procedure I have this morning as any mistakes can't be simply rectified in five minutes by lowering the mast.Also any unexpected additional tools, filling epoxy. acetone.. that I needed might not be readily to hand.
So mundane. I replaced the Fynspray pump and now have running (cold, hand pumped) water on my boat for washing up and washing hands! The little things??.
Select to expand quotejulesmoto said..
In the end couldn't resist the Dyneema sale at RTM so bought some 6 mm for the shrouds and 4mm for lashings.
Three components plus the Dyneema all that is necessary per shroud. I'm only doing the uppers at this stage and they go through a hole in the spreaders which I put about an inch of armored clear food quality water hose through to prevent chafe. Nice snug interference fit.
Once I had the shroud made up I realized that I had forgotten to thread the circular nylon disc on which sits on top of the shroud and is about 60 mm diameter so as to extend beyond the shroud and prevent the shroud chaffing the headsail. Ended up cutting a slot from the perimeter to the center and then filling with epoxy onece on the shroud.
In my haste to get the three splices done and as they were going so well I stupidly forgot that I needed to thread the whole shroud through the spreader hole as well so had to undo the splice of the lashing around the low friction ring. I didn't have enough four millimeter to just cut it and redo it so I undid the splice which was shockingly easy once puckered up and not in tension. Can certainly see why a locking Brummel splice is necessary. A few posts on the internet say that you can't re-splice but re-splicing it went like a charm with the necessary holes evident in the right places and of course the taper already done.
Anyway I left a steel shroud on one side to help see how much creep I'm getting and I've now tensioned it up three times in the yard and each time the Dyneema relaxes and top of the mast tilts over to the steel shroud side. Guess I'll keep going. The dyneema seems to run fairly well through the bow shackle so the absence of a second low friction ring at the bottom adjacent the chain plate doesn't seem to be a bother at least on this size of Dyneema.
I did upsize the dyneema from 5 to 6 to help combat creep so hopefully it will settle in and remain fairly static eventually.
Obviously if you were doing the exercise on a keel boat you wouldn't want to adopt the cavalier spur of the moment procedure I have this morning as any mistakes can't be simply rectified in five minutes by lowering the mast.Also any unexpected additional tools, filling epoxy. acetone.. that I needed might not be readily to hand.
How did you affix the dyneema at the masthead.
Very impressed with the plastic spacers on the D shackles.
I love attention to detail.
BB . My guess is that Jules has done an eyesplice on the "T to ring" mast fitting and this goes at the mast top.
Have known to be wrong though.
gary
Select to expand quoteBananabender said..julesmoto said..
In the end couldn't resist the Dyneema sale at RTM so bought some 6 mm for the shrouds and 4mm for lashings.
Three components plus the Dyneema all that is necessary per shroud. I'm only doing the uppers at this stage and they go through a hole in the spreaders which I put about an inch of armored clear food quality water hose through to prevent chafe. Nice snug interference fit.
Once I had the shroud made up I realized that I had forgotten to thread the circular nylon disc on which sits on top of the shroud and is about 60 mm diameter so as to extend beyond the shroud and prevent the shroud chaffing the headsail. Ended up cutting a slot from the perimeter to the center and then filling with epoxy onece on the shroud.
In my haste to get the three splices done and as they were going so well I stupidly forgot that I needed to thread the whole shroud through the spreader hole as well so had to undo the splice of the lashing around the low friction ring. I didn't have enough four millimeter to just cut it and redo it so I undid the splice which was shockingly easy once puckered up and not in tension. Can certainly see why a locking Brummel splice is necessary. A few posts on the internet say that you can't re-splice but re-splicing it went like a charm with the necessary holes evident in the right places and of course the taper already done.
Anyway I left a steel shroud on one side to help see how much creep I'm getting and I've now tensioned it up three times in the yard and each time the Dyneema relaxes and top of the mast tilts over to the steel shroud side. Guess I'll keep going. The dyneema seems to run fairly well through the bow shackle so the absence of a second low friction ring at the bottom adjacent the chain plate doesn't seem to be a bother at least on this size of Dyneema.
I did upsize the dyneema from 5 to 6 to help combat creep so hopefully it will settle in and remain fairly static eventually.
Obviously if you were doing the exercise on a keel boat you wouldn't want to adopt the cavalier spur of the moment procedure I have this morning as any mistakes can't be simply rectified in five minutes by lowering the mast.Also any unexpected additional tools, filling epoxy. acetone.. that I needed might not be readily to hand.
How did you affix the dyneema at the masthead.
Just passed it through its own loop around the T fitting ring. Probably should have done another splice but I figure the radius is sufficient to avoid degradation of strength plus others on YouTube have done it this way.
Select to expand quotejulesmoto said..Bananabender said
How did you affix the dyneema at the masthead.
Just passed it through its own loop around the T fitting ring. Probably should have done another splice but I figure the radius is sufficient to avoid degradation of strength plus others on YouTube have done it this way.
Like this - which is a screenshot of the way the rigger did it on the YouTube "Free Range Sailing" Clansman. It is if course spliced but not directly around the fitting.
Dropped an alternator mounting bolt into the bilge down through the engine and simply cannot find it.
So glad I haven't got an aluminium boat. I thought you'd have to be a total dummy to do something like this or cut off wires and leave bits in the bilge but turns out it's very easy to do.
Shouldn't have started the engine with the alternator sitting loose on top just to make sure I'd put everything on except the alternator.
Thought aluminium boats were a great idea but maybe not.
Select to expand quotejulesmoto said..
Dropped an alternator mounting bolt into the bilge down through the engine and simply cannot find it.
So glad I haven't got an aluminium boat. I thought you'd have to be a total dummy to do something like this or cut off wires and leave bits in the bilge but turns out it's very easy to do.
Shouldn't have started the engine with the alternator sitting loose on top just to make sure I'd put everything on except the alternator.
Thought aluminium boats were a great idea but maybe not.
I think it seems like a good construction method but I would be very careful buying a secondhand one.
Just need to train yourself to look harder for the bolt , regardless of what the boat is made of.
Select to expand quoteJolene said..
Just need to train yourself to look harder for the bolt , regardless of what the boat is made of.
True and I will but I was over the whole exercise after screwing in multiple bolts a sixteenth of a turn at a time due to next to nil access whilst contorted. Had stupidly thought I might get a sail in after as it was such a nice day but in the end I just wanted to get off the boat.
LIke Jules, I got excited about the Dyneema on sale. I bought some but will be picking up some new stainless shrouds for the trailer sailer today. I think Dyneema is great for those boats that can set the rig up permanently but with me pulling the mast down I get lots of stretch every time I go sailing. I also realised, none of the skiffs or other dinghies I race on use Dyneema for stays - plenty used elsewhere on skiffs - so maybe it was dumb to try it for shrouds.
Select to expand quotejulesmoto said..
Dropped an alternator mounting bolt into the bilge down through the engine and simply cannot find it.
So glad I haven't got an aluminium boat. I thought you'd have to be a total dummy to do something like this or cut off wires and leave bits in the bilge but turns out it's very easy to do.
Shouldn't have started the engine with the alternator sitting loose on top just to make sure I'd put everything on except the alternator.
Thought aluminium boats were a great idea but maybe not.
Magnet on an adjustable rod. Buy one with a light on it too!
Select to expand quoteRamona said..julesmoto said..
Dropped an alternator mounting bolt into the bilge down through the engine and simply cannot find it.
So glad I haven't got an aluminium boat. I thought you'd have to be a total dummy to do something like this or cut off wires and leave bits in the bilge but turns out it's very easy to do.
Shouldn't have started the engine with the alternator sitting loose on top just to make sure I'd put everything on except the alternator.
Thought aluminium boats were a great idea but maybe not.
Magnet on an adjustable rod. Buy one with a light on it too!
I bought a boroscope from Bunnings for $75. It has a light on the end and it gets in tight spots. Very useful tool.
www.bunnings.com.au/ozito-8mm-x-1m-digital-inspection-camera-odic-4810_p0193812
Select to expand quoteKankama said..
LIke Jules, I got excited about the Dyneema on sale. I bought some but will be picking up some new stainless shrouds for the trailer sailer today. I think Dyneema is great for those boats that can set the rig up permanently but with me pulling the mast down I get lots of stretch every time I go sailing. I also realised, none of the skiffs or other dinghies I race on use Dyneema for stays - plenty used elsewhere on skiffs - so maybe it was dumb to try it for shrouds.
Well it's dyneema shrouds for the Whitsunday trip next week but I will take the old steel ones just in case.
What's the name of your boat Jules? We leave tomorrow for Airile with the trailerable cat.
Select to expand quoteKankama said..
What's the name of your boat Jules? We leave tomorrow for Airile with the trailerable cat.
JOKER. We should be there on Sunday 7th. Probably launching the next day from Whitsunday Sailing Club where the trailer will stay for eleven days.
When do you expect to get there, launch from and how long are you staying. Also what type and name is your cat? Be good to meet up.
Wife and 7 yo son in tow. Older kids house sitting.
Safe trip.
Anyone else on here be up there?
I haven't thought up a name that has stuck, I just call it "The Seven" as she is 7 metres long. We will probably launch at Cannonvale and leave the trailer at storage. Just my wife and me, leaving tomorrow or Sunday, it would be nice to be sailing by Tuesday arvo to get out before the wind blows too hard.
? Myall Lakes ? Was just up there,and almost overflowing,so best on a boat rather than camping !. We were the only vessel there,apart from the Legge's Camp Ferry + pelicans . Chilly,admitedly,and no breeze,so better at the Whitsundays ?
Mason
Select to expand quoteKankama said..
I haven't thought up a name that has stuck, I just call it "The Seven" as she is 7 metres long. We will probably launch at Cannonvale and leave the trailer at storage. Just my wife and me, leaving tomorrow or Sunday, it would be nice to be sailing by Tuesday arvo to get out before the wind blows too hard.
Safe trip. Looks good. Where is the trailer storage?
Predicted rain in Syd for a week or more so you are getting out at the right time. Thought I'd get my boat facing the right way with the tow ball accessible from the hard driveway as the front yard grass storage area will get all slippery but it was already too slippery and had to get a mate to tow me across my own front yard this evening. Got it nearly straight coming out of the U-turn but then bogged. Massive trenches in the yard now. Embarrassing!
Select to expand quoteWoohoo said..
I waved goodbye to my old boat and her new owner. Heartbreaking.
That can be hard.
Belting down again ! - Definitely heading in the right direction - Have Fun !!
Mason
