Finally removed the wheel and pedestal
Here's a Massive thanks to Jolene for picking up the bronze rudder post fitting from Swarbricks and fabricating a stainless tiller bracket
There's not that much wind there Andy to have your boat on it's beam you better make sure the keel is still bolted on
That is a massive job Andy but certainly a move in the right direction.
Does your boat have a bridge deck where you can put your traveller or will you have it on a beam across the rear of the cockpit??
Interesting picture Andy,
Looks like you have alot going on there.!! Some of the ss 34s that are set up for tiller only, have a rudder post tube that runs from the bottom of the hull to the top deck bearing /fitting. There is no steering quadrant therefore no gland or seal fitting. If you needed to fit an auto pilot ram and pitman arm to this type of set up, you could do it externally between the tiller gudgeon fitting and the upper bearing, all of this is above the waterline. My boat has a full length rudder tube supported by a bulk head and the deck.
If you need to replace the rudder bearing/bushes, they're pretty simple to do.
Working our way up the coast, now moored in the Crookhaven River NSW.
Great spot!
Really! I had to take a wander out the front yard and I can see you down on the courtesy mooring. I'm a couple of doors from the water tower. I will be down there in the morning to take a swim under my boat which is about 150 yards West of you. I'll say hello if your still there.
That would be great Ramona!
But we will be heading off at sparrows fart tomorrow, so we won't get to meet you unfortunately, next stop Wollongong, if we can get somewhere to park that is.
Sorry guys, I meant to post the previous post in the "where did you go in your sailboat today" thread.
Interesting picture Andy,
Looks like you have alot going on there.!! Some of the ss 34s that are set up for tiller only, have a rudder post tube that runs from the bottom of the hull to the top deck bearing /fitting. There is no steering quadrant therefore no gland or seal fitting. If you needed to fit an auto pilot ram and pitman arm to this type of set up, you could do it externally between the tiller gudgeon fitting and the upper bearing, all of this is above the waterline. My boat has a full length rudder tube supported by a bulk head and the deck.
If you need to replace the rudder bearing/bushes, they're pretty simple to do.
I have to take the rudder off to repair it. I was wondering how it comes off the skeg. I like the idea of the tube but the hydraulic ram for the Coursemaster rules that out.
Working our way up the coast, now moored in the Crookhaven River NSW.
Great spot!
Sweet looking boat Now and Zen
I stole that picture and put it up on the Greenwell Point facebook page to stir up a mate. Normally his yacht which is a sistership to this one is on a mooring 100 metres to the West. It's up on the hard at the moment having some steel refurbishing.
I have to take the rudder off to repair it. I was wondering how it comes off the skeg. I like the idea of the tube but the hydraulic ram for the Coursemaster rules that out.
Here is the skeg fitting. Its fastened to the skeg with 3X 5/16" countersunk screws. Undo the screws and break away the bog and the rudder will drop down. Once the fitting is clear of the skeg you can remove the fitting from the rudder
Interesting picture Andy,
Looks like you have alot going on there.!! Some of the ss 34s that are set up for tiller only, have a rudder post tube that runs from the bottom of the hull to the top deck bearing /fitting. There is no steering quadrant therefore no gland or seal fitting. If you needed to fit an auto pilot ram and pitman arm to this type of set up, you could do it externally between the tiller gudgeon fitting and the upper bearing, all of this is above the waterline. My boat has a full length rudder tube supported by a bulk head and the deck.
If you need to replace the rudder bearing/bushes, they're pretty simple to do.
I have to take the rudder off to repair it. I was wondering how it comes off the skeg. I like the idea of the tube but the hydraulic ram for the Coursemaster rules that out.
Cutting out the floor of the cockpit is an extreme measure which will need planning and skill to seal it up again and maintain watertight integrity.
On most S&S 34s the space below is quite difficult to get at so the less reasons you have to go there the better. Coursemasters are great units, BUT, be sure you will have to get in there to fix it one day or another.
Simrad tiller pilots, such as Morning Bird has are also a great unit, as he has testified.
Why not take the rudder out, get rid of the old quadrant/tiller arm and associated stuff, glass the rudder post tunnel up to the deck, thereby eliminating the gland seal giving greater watertight integrity and greater structural strength???
Getting rid of the wheel steering is a great move so why not go all the way???
Of course there is the option to make or buy a bracket to use a little tiller pilot with the windvane:
www.flemingselfsteer.com/cgi-sys/suspendedpage.cgi
Or you might be able to use the below deck autopilot with the windvane, from p.179 of Bill Morris "The Windvane Self-Steering Handbook":
"A more sophisticated coupling system incorporates a Morse cable between the vane yoke and a below-decks autopilot. The cable passes through a grommet-sealed hole in the hull, well above the waterline, keeping the entire autopilot installation safe from the elements. A single cable between the hull and the vane yoke eliminates the extra clutter experienced with the above-decks coupling system and guarantees a sturdier, longer-lasting installation."
Jolene, thanks for posting that, I have been wondering how the rudder comes off for about 12 months, probably wasted about 50 hours thinking about it .
Cisco I hear what you're saying, its very tempting, because a tube that totally encloses the rudder post by far the most fail proof solution. The only problem is I would have totally rethink my self steering options. Currently they are:
- use the Flemming wind vane most of the time;
- if the Flemming is damaged beyond repair, use the Raymarine ST 4000+ and set up a sheet to tiller self steer with surgical tube;
- in heavy weather and large seas use the Coursemaster with the strong hydraulic ram.
The Coursemaster uses a lot of power but might be the only option to steer a course when things get really rough so if I enclose the rudder tube I don't have a good option for self steering in storm conditions. The Coursemaster came with the boat and I already owned the Raymarine. I don't think there is an above deck tiller pilot strong enough to handle extreme conditions and sadly if there is I cant really afford another one.
Someday, i ordered the Flemming with a bracket so the option of buying a small tiller pilot is there if I have enough money before I leave. I haven't looked into using the below deck pilots with the windvane.
I think the work you are doing on the boat preparing for the trip is fantastic. I always feel silly trying to give ideas to vastly more experienced sailors, you would know a lot more about this than me. These are not my ideas though, I'm providing the references where they are from. This idea is from ch 12 of Hal Roth "Handling Storms at Sea" (which I personally think is a more appropriate book on handling storms for fin keel yachts than some others based on experience with full keel yachts):
A strategy for dealing with the danger of breaking waves is to use a Jordan series drogue deployed from the stern, using a bridle. p. 125:
'7. The tests clearly show that a drogue deployed from the stern can hold a boat into a breaking wave crest and prevent capsizing. Use of a drogue improves the motion of a sailboat in a storm and reduces leeward drift.'
p.127:
'What this means in the real world is that once the Jordan drogue is in place, no steering of any kind is necessary. "The yacht is moving forward all the time, so you don't need to lash the tiller in place," says Ed Arnold. "But to keep it from banging around during a cross-sea, I tie the tiller amidships with light line. If I had a wheel I would be hesitant to lock it in place because a cross-sea might break something or mis-align the wheel with the rudder. I would tie shock cord on the wheel."'
'Since no steering is necessary, the people on board can deploy the drogue and go below where they'll be protected from the wind, waves, and cold.'
Don't feel silly mate, I'm nothing special when it comes to sailing experience anyway.A Jordan series drogue is definitely on the list to buy.
From all accounts they are the best drogue out there, as long as you have enough sea room
In extreme conditions and with plenty of sea room I think the drogue deployed from the bow would be safer. That way the shape of the boat offers less resistance to the water and breaking waves will flow over the boat rather than into it as from the stern.
I have had only one experience of a full gale at sea which was in the middle of the Tasman. The skipper in that instance decided to lash the helm and lay ahull.
We stayed like that for 36 hours reasonably comfortable below with the occasional (hourly??) slide the hatch back and have a look until the gale blew out.
We did this after having been sailing into the gale for 12 hours with storm jib alone and Airies self steering and suffering a 180 degree knock down. That was in 1979 and I have not experienced anything close to it since even in the bit of a blow we had coming back from Lord Howe last year.
I think the most important things for you Andy with your upcoming adventure is to make sure your steering is as sturdy as it can be and to have a very strong and reliable wind vane self steering system such as the Flemming. On Morning Bird it was just so good and made life so much easier on our trip last year.
Oh!! Make sure you carry plenty of spare wind vanes. Three mm ply is not very durable.
I am sure MB will agree with me on the Flemming. Absolutely invaluable.
You would think intuitively that since the bow of the boat is designed for punching through waves that a drogue deployed from the bow might be better. There are other issues to consider though: will the bow actually be facing a breaking wave with a drogue deployed from the bow? Fin keeled sailboats like the S&S34 have a tendency to want to sail at anchor. With a parachute drogue at the bow the line may go slack at times.
p. 124-125 Hal Roth "Handling Storms at Sea":
In May 1987, the U.S. Coast Guard published Jordan’s engineering report (CG-D- 20-87) titled “Investigation of the Use of Drogues to Improve the Safety of Sailing Yachts.”
Here’s my summary of Jordan’s essential points as they apply to offshore sailors in monohull sailboats. Some of the conclusions are surprising:
...
6. If a drogue is used, it should be deployed from the stern rather than from the bow. With a drogue from the stern, a sailboat will lie stern-to the wind and sea. With the same drogue (or sea anchor) set forward, the bow of a modern monohull sailboat will turn away from the wind, sometimes up to 70 degrees. This may put the vessel in grave peril.
...
Ch 13 Hal Roth "Handling Storms at Sea":
Consider the following letter from circumnavigator Ed Arnold, who wrote me while heading for South Africa after rounding Cape Horn on a singlehanded voyage in his 35-foot aluminum-hulled boat Nomad.
February 3, 2002
Hal,
I have used the Jordan Series drogue many times both for safety in breaking seas and to hold position. Don Jordan estimated the forces on a boat in a breaking crest and designed the drogue to quickly establish the necessary restraining force to drag the boat through the crest. This resulted in a relatively short and stiff main line compared to many recommendations for parachute sea anchors. More or larger cones might be better if one were trying to hold position. My 20,000-pound boat required 117 cones.
I attach the bridle with shackles to tangs welded to the corners of my transom. Forces are large, and a chafe-free attachment is necessary. The drogue works well from the stern; I tried it from the bow and found it would not hold the bow closer than 70 degrees to the wind.
I have deployed it 3–4 times due to breaking seas. The first time in the N. Atlantic south of Iceland I had about F10 winds and seas of 25 feet or more. The boat was held within ±30 degrees from the wind. Most of the sluing was in the troughs where the wave back?ow reduced tension on the drogue and where the wind was momentarily less. Mary and I stayed below with periodic checks on the VHF for shipping. The cockpit would have been very wet and at times almost dangerous. Boarding seas filled the cockpit several times, but none broke directly on us. Drift was about 2.5 knots. Surface current is 1/40 th of the wind speed, so a knot of the drift was surface current.
I had similar results in the Gulf of Alaska and near Cape Horn during the present voyage: F9 or F10 winds with very high seas near Cape Horn. At all times I felt safe, although a full breaking sea on board might do real damage. The other 4–5 uses have been to hold position when I could no longer go upwind and I did not want to run downwind. A larger drogue would have helped. I have not had any tangles during deployment or use. I did have the bridle get under the windvane rudder, and now use a floating line for the bridle.
Retrieving is hard work, and I would appreciate knowing an easier way. I have a retrieval line to the head of the bridle, which I winch in. Then, with some danger to fingers, I can get the main line around a winch during a surge of the boat. This is winched to the first cone. I take one turn on the winch and manually snub during stress and take in during a back surge. The cones survive the snubbing around the winch. With patience and effort it all comes in.
The stern and companionway of my long-keeled aluminum boat were designed to take a breaking sea. Some boats would not be strong enough.
Ed
p. 143 Hal Roth "Handling Storms at Sea":
One user of both parachute sea anchors from the bow and the Jordan Series drogue from the stern is the veteran English sailor Noel Dilly, who campaigns a 28-foot Holman & Pye Twister design named Bits. Professor Dilly says that the series drogue has no give at all, “whereas with the para-anchor, it is like attaching the boat to a bungee cord that is being loaded and unloaded all the time.” He adds: “The series drogue acts faster than any other device, and it will align the stern to the wave direction soonest after a wave strike.”
Had a busy day today first I dressed a nice piece of teak for my traveller beam
Then I recessed and fitted my new cockpit drains
Then I epoxied a layer of 600gram double bias over the whole thing
Andy you might not realize but you have to wait till the tide turns to post photos on here
Chops bro sorted me out
Andy
What's the little motorised? Festool unit beside your planing work on the length of teak?
Greg
Hi Greg that's just the dust extractor/ vacuum and some tool boxes that stack on top of it
Thanks for flipping my pics HG this new phone is not cooperating
The gunwale separated from the hull due to fixings giving way due to wave action beating to windward in a stiff breeze, new auto pilot being fitted bigger hydraulic ram as the rudder requires more pressure to drive it and an antifoul.
You would think intuitively that since the bow of the boat is designed for punching through waves that a drogue deployed from the bow might be better. There are other issues to consider though: will the bow actually be facing a breaking wave with a drogue deployed from the bow? Fin keeled sailboats like the S&S34 have a tendency to want to sail at anchor. With a parachute drogue at the bow the line may go slack at times.
I take your point. One thing my Lotus fin keeler does is sail at anchor.
The gunwale separated from the hull due to fixings giving way due to wave action beating to windward in a stiff breeze, new auto pilot being fitted bigger hydraulic ram as the rudder requires more pressure to drive it and an antifoul.
What is she built from whiteout?? Most Adams 35s I have seen are from steel.