Select to expand quoteHG02 said..
I've yet to make a cover for the helm opening which is also need to fit the hydraulic lines . When I make it it will also mount my removable instrument pod on the cover. I am in the middle of making a cover for the front of the helm unit also where it mounts onto the pedestal
Filling and sand over the coming week
Hi HG
You are doing a nice job with that pedestal
Have you decided yet whether she is going to be a sloop or a ketch
Regards Don
Perhaps use a block like this for my ropes back to the cockpit and include a spring at its base to keep it at 90 degrees.
to visualize what I mean the ruler would be the cabin corner and the block anchor point out side. using a home made s/s bracket braced off each side on the cabin corner
This ones off a main sheet from a hobbie
its still trash or treasure 
a spring base like this below to hold the block horizontal if the ropes are slack
Perhaps use a block like this for my ropes back to the cockpit and include a spring at its base to keep it at 90 degrees.
to visualize what I mean the ruler would be the cabin corner and the block anchor point out side. using a home made s/s bracket braced off each side on the cabin
Had to replace my old trusty dolce gusto pod coffee machine today...... After 5 years she's been from Tassie up the East around Cape York and back , down to South Oz by 737 Jetstar from Cairns!
The new one is longer , holds more water, collects the old pods and was reduced from $110 down o $30 at foodland!
diffrent pods and takes a better range off coffee.
its been a tough day!
Got every thing squared up and sanded back then added some barrier coat /primer that I had spare in a tin here
Moved the liferaft forward today and re measured and ordered the 1335mm x 995mm 220 watt solar panel! sorry forgot to take current pics!
also changed the Port teak toe rail to a lovely Jarrah stain! Again no current pic! ^ looking good Ho2! You will need a nice sailors pipe while sitting at that wheel!
Way I'm going Ill be in a walkin frame S.A. before I raise a sail 
coming up three year next easter she be sailing well before then though.
Hope you've got an extension lead when I catch up to you so you can offset some of your 12 volt power 
Just think what would have you been doing if you didn't have your yacht? And what you will have at the end of the tunnel. It's worth it!
Select to expand quotesouthace said..
Just think what would have you been doing if you didn't have your yacht? And what you will have at the end of the tunnel. It's worth it!
Scaramuche has kindly donating a old Air X wind Gen Once its in my hands I refurbish it and hang it off the Mizzen Many thanks for that
Select to expand quoteHG02 said..southace said..
Right well never anchor near me thanks ho2
Ha ha Southace Pretty sure silent wind blades will fit right on HG
Select to expand quotesouthace said..
Right well never anchor near me thanks ho2
If you find your blades missing you know where they are :-)
In preparation for the torrential rain predicted for today I installed my new 2000 GPH bilge pump. The old 3700 GPH pump had died and at $400 for a replacement from Rule the 2000 GPH at less than half the price was adequate for a 33 footer.
The wiring for the old pump had been fitted with those plastic block joiners that screw the wires down and are exposed to moisture and shorting, so I used the solder splice connectors shown below from Road Tech Marine to wire up the new pump. The idea of the connectors are that when you apply heat from a blow torch the solder melts to join the wires, the cover shrinks and the coloured stuff seals the wire. Didn't really see the solder melt but they did give a good strong join and to be sure of water proofing I painted the ends of the connectors with liquid electrical tape and wrapped the whole lot together with several metres of electrical tape.
After I did I wondered if the glue filled heatshrink would have worked just as well??
Also had to redo the plumbing to the outlet hose, the bilge pump has a 32 mm outlet which had to be reduced to 16 mm to fit the existing outlet hose, which seems counter productive but too big a a job to fix at the moment.
Finaly fitted the VSR what a hassle! But nice to not have to worry about switching switches now!
Fitted the 220 watt solar panel giving me total 500 watt solar and 400 watt wind.
Should get 20 amps from solar on a sunny day now.
I got 17 amps from the silent wind in 35knots at 5am last Thursday.
Trim is actually saying its ok S.A.
Ill skipper for a while you crack a can and chill 
Added a coat of primer and sanded it back 4 more coats to get her smooth
Pedestal and cockpit cylinder
I cleaned the hull , this is what happens when your boat doesn't go any where for a year , ablative anti foul doesn't work unless your boat moves lol
Pick up my first order of Ronstan turnbuckles tomorrow open toggle /7mm swage for the main mast for my lowers tops and back stays next pay Happy chappy
www.ronstantensilearch.com/component-overview/
Looking for the engineers here and interested in their opinion.
I will have pics later in the week.
On a standard Ford 2175E marinization (so Ford Lehman, Ford Lees, Ford Bowman) the raw water goes from intake to pump to engine oil cooler to heat exchanger to gear box oil cooler to exhaust mixer and out.
The boat the Ford is in lives permanently in Southern Tasmania so water temp can be under 10' C.
So the best advice is re-plumb the system so the raw water goes intake to pump to heat exchanger to engine oil cooler to gear box oil cooler to exhaust mixer and out.
The concern was that the raw water temperature was to low to go to the engine oil cooler first and had the effect of cooling the oil to much and water already warmed in part by the heat exchanger should cool the engine oil cooler.
I should say I only use mono grade 30.
It made sense to me but I doubted the ability of the 10'C water to absorb so much more heat than say 25'C water.
No doubt there is an equation to calculate it.
Should have it all finished next week anyway.
Ill have a think about that one Lydia once you post a photo or two
Now my Taylor stove I have the stove clean and complete except have new burners to fit yet still sitting in the draw
Ive a problem with a few tank parts Id like and Taylors don't make the same tank any more so tonight on the way home I bought a Goss electric fuel pump and a inline fuel filter and will purchase either a tank say around 20 liters and fit that tank in a spare space somewhere and attach the inline filter and electric pump run a fuel line up near the stove add a on off tap to the fuel line and attach it to the stove . add a switch to power up the pump .
Ill need to do some tweaking but should be good once completed there appear to be a lot a variations in the taylor build over the years and parts are hard to decipher As an example mine tank has a small jet to balance the fuel from the tank to the stove
Ive a better ryco filter rather than the one supplied with the pump this runs at 5 psi and has a relief valve fitted
Ill bring the stove home for testing the system and run and use it at home bake a roast do a few stir frys and breakfast I need to get to know this fine piece of brass and stainless Ive decided to go with the blowtorch starting system a piezo lighter rather than the meths for now to pre heat the burners
Select to expand quoteHG02 said..
Ill have a think about that one Lydia once you post a photo or two
Now my Taylor stove I have the stove clean and complete except have new burners to fit yet still sitting in the draw
Ive a problem with a few tank parts Id like and Taylors don't make the same tank any more so tonight on the way home I bought a Goss electric fuel pump and a inline fuel filter and will purchase either a tank say around 20 liters and fit that tank in a spare space somewhere and attach the inline filter and electric pump run a fuel line up near the stove add a on off tap to the fuel line and attach it to the stove . add a switch to power up the pump .
Ill need to do some tweaking but should be good once completed there appear to be a lot a variations in the taylor build over the years and parts are hard to decipher As an example mine tank has a small jet to balance the fuel from the tank to the stove
Ive a better ryco filter rather than the one supplied with the pump this runs at 5 psi and has a relief valve fitted
Ill bring the stove home for testing the system and run and use it at home bake a roast do a few stir frys and breakfast I need to get to know this fine piece of brass and stainless Ive decided to go with the blowtorch starting system a piezo lighter rather than the meths for now to pre heat the burners
love the old taylors stove HG i have tried to use them in restorations a few times but have never had the right boat to owner combination
Select to expand quoteHG02 said..
Ill have a think about that one Lydia once you post a photo or two
Now my Taylor stove I have the stove clean and complete except have new burners to fit yet still sitting in the draw
Ive a problem with a few tank parts Id like and Taylors don't make the same tank any more so tonight on the way home I bought a Goss electric fuel pump and a inline fuel filter and will purchase either a tank say around 20 liters and fit that tank in a spare space somewhere and attach the inline filter and electric pump run a fuel line up near the stove add a on off tap to the fuel line and attach it to the stove . add a switch to power up the pump .
Ill need to do some tweaking but should be good once completed there appear to be a lot a variations in the taylor build over the years and parts are hard to decipher As an example mine tank has a small jet to balance the fuel from the tank to the stove
Ive a better ryco filter rather than the one supplied with the pump this runs at 5 psi and has a relief valve fitted
Ill bring the stove home for testing the system and run and use it at home bake a roast do a few stir frys and breakfast I need to get to know this fine piece of brass and stainless Ive decided to go with the blowtorch starting system a piezo lighter rather than the meths for now to pre heat the burners
I have one of those fuel pumps in my race car. They make a god awful noise.
Select to expand quotelydia said..
Looking for the engineers here and interested in their opinion.
I will have pics later in the week.
On a standard Ford 2175E marinization (so Ford Lehman, Ford Lees, Ford Bowman) the raw water goes from intake to pump to engine oil cooler to heat exchanger to gear box oil cooler to exhaust mixer and out.
The boat the Ford is in lives permanently in Southern Tasmania so water temp can be under 10' C.
So the best advice is re-plumb the system so the raw water goes intake to pump to heat exchanger to engine oil cooler to gear box oil cooler to exhaust mixer and out.
The concern was that the raw water temperature was to low to go to the engine oil cooler first and had the effect of cooling the oil to much and water already warmed in part by the heat exchanger should cool the engine oil cooler.
I should say I only use mono grade 30.
It made sense to me but I doubted the ability of the 10'C water to absorb so much more heat than say 25'C water.
No doubt there is an equation to calculate it.
Should have it all finished next week anyway.
I would look into allowing the fresh water side of the engine cooling to circulate through the oil coolers and only allow the raw water through the primary heat exchanger. Oil would never then get cooler than the fresh coolant, most likely controlled by a thermostat.
Select to expand quotelydia said..
Looking for the engineers here and interested in their opinion.
I will have pics later in the week.
On a standard Ford 2175E marinization (so Ford Lehman, Ford Lees, Ford Bowman) the raw water goes from intake to pump to engine oil cooler to heat exchanger to gear box oil cooler to exhaust mixer and out.
The boat the Ford is in lives permanently in Southern Tasmania so water temp can be under 10' C.
So the best advice is re-plumb the system so the raw water goes intake to pump to heat exchanger to engine oil cooler to gear box oil cooler to exhaust mixer and out.
The concern was that the raw water temperature was to low to go to the engine oil cooler first and had the effect of cooling the oil to much and water already warmed in part by the heat exchanger should cool the engine oil cooler.
I should say I only use mono grade 30.
It made sense to me but I doubted the ability of the 10'C water to absorb so much more heat than say 25'C water.
No doubt there is an equation to calculate it.
Should have it all finished next week anyway.
I would suggest sticking to the original layout which is pretty much how all manufacturers do it. The engine will have a thermostat most likely and this is usually about 62 degrees C for raw water cooled engines and slightly higher for fresh water cooled. Marine engines run cooler generally compared to road engines and the temperature range is much narrower. Seawater temperatures ranges from about 10 - 27 degrees C so there is not much variation. When you flash up the engine the thermostat will be closed with a small amount bypassed. The coolant in the block will quickly warm as will the oil. By the time the water has boiled for your coffee and you let the ropes go the engine will be at operating temperature.
Jolene, you are quite right as fresh water runs to the gear box oil cooler and we will doing the same now for the engine oil cooler.
Romona, we are fitting new thermostats but still working out which ones.
Ended up with an RDO today and a few good things happened.
Started my rigging collection 7 ronstan Toggle swags turnbuckle in 7 mm
Thank you very much to Phil at Fleming marine
Happy chappy here 
I check a few photos dates and it nearly two years next month the boat been stickless
And the best part was chatting to Phil at Fleming Marine about Taylor Stoves He used one crossing the Atlantic started it on Rym on a few occasions he said ran out of Meths . Hethen said Ive a old tank here you can have my mouth water Oh yer
So I drop out there and its a later model than mine and has the air pump fitted to the tank . So far Ive fitted the Hanse No.1's to the taylor and went to fit the copper tube but found a leak under pressure I Ive just come back from masters with some new olives
So some time tonight Ill have those bad boys burning even if its blow hard outside > east coast low
Baked potatoes com
Now Japie if you looking PM me your current address in Paradise and ill post a complete burner to you .
I don't know its history but have a feeling with a good clean she'd be good to go .
I hope you realize that's two beers you will own me
And a real big thanks to Spongeblob for his help getting it down here
Finally got my boat slipped to do the antifouling and have a bit of a cleanup in general
