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What did you do to your sailing boat today ?

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Created by Boatin > 9 months ago, 12 Jun 2013
spongeblob
NSW, 218 posts
25 May 2014 12:11PM
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Boatin,
Its been awhile mate
hope all's well and good to see you topside again.

Boatin
NSW, 179 posts
25 May 2014 5:00PM
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Thanks spongeblob,

All's well and looking forward to getting some hours afloat up. Can't believe how good the weather is. If this is global warming bring it on !
Are you getting out on the harbour much?

HG02
VIC, 5814 posts
25 May 2014 8:57PM
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stripped my engine cover and sanded and coated the wood work with some sikkens light oak will redo the sound insulation and add a new brass hinge








Also thinking of filling in the cut out where the old engine panels was located with gel coat and fiberglass need to learn how to do it so this is a learn as you go job Doing there if it turns to cr#p I can cover it with a wood panel later

Roama
TAS, 194 posts
25 May 2014 9:57PM
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Re-fitted main winch on "Soliloque of Searle" today when I had it stripped down it was a bit gummy inside any suggestions on what to clean and re-pack winch gearing with? Very close to being able to sail her since restoration exciting times





cisco
QLD, 12346 posts
25 May 2014 10:50PM
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HG02 said...
Filed and filled in some holes ready for painting




I meant to add these gauges came with sender units I bought the fuel gauge from the same seller they come with 1/8 npt threaded senders my Bukh I am hoping is 1/8 BSP I bought the brass adapters form auto barn a three way 1/8bsp on to and one with NPT to suit the gauge
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/221178470290?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 < gauges link with senders


That is a really nice job however I do not think sheet aluminium is the right choice for the panel. You could get some short circuiting later on when the salt environment has done it's job on it.

I would be using that formica type panel which is three layered black/white/black which can be engraved to show white labelling of each gauge, switch and light. That labelling does not fall off and that material is what the professionals use when building custom switch boards.

Just a suggestion and if you change to that now using what you have already done as a template, there should not be too much extra work to do. Years ago I used to do pantograph engraving and switch boards were one of the things we engraved quite often.

DrRog
NSW, 605 posts
25 May 2014 11:03PM
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Parkster, I serviced my winches recently. Took it all home in a bucket so I could do a proper job - too messy onboard. I started with oven cleaner, went to hot water and soap using wire brush and rags, then metho. Don't think they'd been serviced for a loooooong time.

Gears take grease but other parts take oil. I would search for the service manual for your winch or download a similar winch manual. Mine are barient / Barlow and I found that online somewhere. Principles are the same, I'm sure. Just be careful not to lose the tiny little springs. Oh, and photograph each step as you dismantle, I reckon.

Man, the sound of my winches going clickety-clack and seeing them spin revolutions after i gave them a whirl was very rewarding!

HG02
VIC, 5814 posts
25 May 2014 11:04PM
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My thoughts were to fit in where I original fitted the isolator switch Ive made a cut out already so it fits into the same place as this is fiberglass and the panel is wood and the engine panel is insulated from any earth should be ok I hope
The VDO gauges are plastic housings and there is only the led warning lights and the original press button switch (some sort of plastic) and the ignition on / off toggle switch in the panel
The ignition circuit has a breaker before and only runs low amps. Ive two water proof relays for my stop and start circuit
on that panel photos to come for criticizing later this week

cisco
QLD, 12346 posts
25 May 2014 11:36PM
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Select to expand quote
Parkster said...
Re-fitted main winch on "Soliloque of Searle" today when I had it stripped down it was a bit gummy inside any suggestions on what to clean and re-pack winch gearing with? Very close to being able to sail her since restoration exciting times



That looks like either a Barient or Barlow winch. Barlow fairly much copied Barient. When you have the winch completely stripped and cleaned, lubricate the pawls (the ratchet bits) and springs with oil. If you use grease they tend to stick a bit and sometimes not fully engage. Engine oil is as good as any.

The winch does not need to be "re-packed" as such. Too much grease and trying to speed sheet will be like swimming in syrup. It just needs to be lubricated. It is not as though the winch drum is going to be turning at 100 rpm all day is it. It is not going to overheat and bind up on the bearings.

When you tack the winch drum will probably do a dozen quick revolutions with little load as you take up the slack in the sheet as quick as possible and then it will come under load, you insert the handle and the drum might do two more revolutions as you trim. Then it just sits there and holds it until you tack again.

The gear teeth, shaft or post and bearings just need a light coating of grease. I use BP Boating Grease and it works fine. No need for any special, sexy, yachting, expensive,"marine" grease. That stuff is just a con job to separate you from your money like most things that have the adjective "Marine" before them. "Marine" paints are the same.

The best things you can buy for your winches are hats. They are these rubber or plastic things that fit where the handle goes and have a dome top that sheds the rain and dust fallout so that it does not go down through the winch when you are not sailing.

I hope this helps and saves you from blowing your dough.

For cleaning use kerosene or petrol and a wire brush.

cisco
QLD, 12346 posts
25 May 2014 11:42PM
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Select to expand quote
DrRog said...

Man, the sound of my winches going clickety-clack and seeing them spin revolutions after i gave them a whirl was very rewarding!


Don't like clickety-clack. Mine go whizzzz.

cisco
QLD, 12346 posts
25 May 2014 11:50PM
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HG02 said...
My thoughts were to fit in where I original fitted the isolator switch Ive made a cut out already so it fits into the same place as this is fiberglass and the panel is wood and the engine panel is insulated from any earth should be ok I hope
The VDO gauges are plastic housings and there is only the led warning lights and the original press button switch (some sort of plastic) and the ignition on / off toggle switch in the panel


I hear you re gauges and isolator but if any switches or lights have metal bodies there is a potential for disaster.

HG02
VIC, 5814 posts
25 May 2014 11:54PM
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Select to expand quote
cisco said...
HG02 said...
My thoughts were to fit in where I original fitted the isolator switch Ive made a cut out already so it fits into the same place as this is fiberglass and the panel is wood and the engine panel is insulated from any earth should be ok I hope
The VDO gauges are plastic housings and there is only the led warning lights and the original press button switch (some sort of plastic) and the ignition on / off toggle switch in the panel


I hear you re gauges and isolator but if any switches or lights have metal bodies there is a potential for disaster.




Well I might re look at it thanks Cisco point taken thanks

can you recall the name of that three layer Formica panel Cisco ?
When I first bought the boat I had that stuff in mind forgot about it

cisco
QLD, 12346 posts
26 May 2014 1:07AM
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If you talk with guys that do trophy engraving, they will know what it is called.

Try here.

pantographic.com.au/

HG02
VIC, 5814 posts
26 May 2014 6:57AM
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cisco said...
If you talk with guys that do trophy engraving, they will know what it is called.

Try here.

pantographic.com.au/


Thanks Cisco I'm onto it getting some quotes today MMMMMMM b.o.a.t= $$$$$ once again

Ramona
NSW, 7603 posts
26 May 2014 9:00AM
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DrRog is correct. Some parts need oil, others grease. When you have finished, make up a set of winch covers and keep them covered when not in use.

theace
NSW, 70 posts
26 May 2014 11:54AM
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Today I cleaned the bird crap off the solar panel,as it is mounted about 2.5 meters above the cockpit on a frame on the pushpit and hard to reach I was wondering if it would be feasible to put a layer of gladwrap over the panel and next time the birds use it for target practice I just tear off the gladwrap and put on a new one.

DrRog
NSW, 605 posts
26 May 2014 11:58AM
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I saw those little winch hats recently and was confused because the Barlow manual says to puour fresh water through them to keep them salt-free. I suppose if you do use a hat and put fresh water through it that could work. I'll just service them occasionally.

Fiesta
QLD, 122 posts
26 May 2014 9:21PM
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Unintentionally cleaned the bottom of the keel on a sandbank near Coochiemudlo island....
My first experience kedging with the anchor, like all things harder in practice than in theory, but we got off in about 15 minutes. Ronca anchor - what a top unit.
A rising tide is pretty handy too.

No damage other than to my ego.

nswsailor
NSW, 1439 posts
26 May 2014 11:24PM
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Well Fiesta that just proves that you are out there sailing while the rest of us waste time here!

spongeblob
NSW, 218 posts
27 May 2014 10:09PM
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Collected HG02's stove in a box, not convinced it would make Melbourne on a truck

so I knocked up a box.

Hang in there Haydn, at least it will arrive in one piece.

HG02
VIC, 5814 posts
27 May 2014 10:41PM
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Many thanks Spongeblob been worrying me for a while

What sort of condition is it in SpongeBlob ? will it clean up ok
The top looks rusty have I bought a lemon or a stove Sponeblob

are the fiddle rails brass? John said it was new and unused
some TLC should fix it

HG02
VIC, 5814 posts
28 May 2014 4:40AM
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stripped and clean my flywheel and two packed primer ready for some Bukh delicious red.
I was thinking of removing the alternator pulley and add a double but the pulley is part of the casting so Ill buy a 70 AMP Bosch alternator instead of the 95 amp . Local guy down here with a walker had a 70 amp Bosch using the original flywheel pulley and also the original alternator pulley and it works fine that will nearly double the output as the original puts out 38 amp




Id say the stove top will need cleaning and seasoning and polishing SongeBlob add it to the list of things to do
it keeps getting longer and it keeps removing zeros from my bank account











quick spray of Bunning's delicious red before work
Have as good one every body

Ramona
NSW, 7603 posts
28 May 2014 9:38AM
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HG02, As you are probably aware alternators only have those charging amps for a very short period. It may be more efficient to modify the original alternator to supply the higher amps for longer. The old "12v Bible" had a chapter on how to modify alternators. Not sure if the new one does.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEW-The-12-Volt-Bible-for-Boats-by-Miner-Brotherton-Paperback-Book-/150980529256?pt=AU_Non_Fiction_Books_2&hash=item2327240c68

The old book was excellent and the best $20 you could spend. The book is in my local library so you might find it in yours too.

HG02
VIC, 5814 posts
28 May 2014 10:44AM
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Ramona said...
HG02, As you are probably aware alternators only have those charging amps for a very short period. It may be more efficient to modify the original alternator to supply the higher amps for longer. The old "12v Bible" had a chapter on how to modify alternators. Not sure if the new one does.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEW-The-12-Volt-Bible-for-Boats-by-Miner-Brotherton-Paperback-Book-/150980529256?pt=AU_Non_Fiction_Books_2&hash=item2327240c68

The old book was excellent and the best $20 you could spend. The book is in my local library so you might find it in yours too.


The main reason for the alternator change over is less wires hanging off the engine bay and it's 20 years old I can rebuild a Bosch in my sleep I know what you mean ramona

keensailor
NSW, 699 posts
28 May 2014 8:18PM
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I am slightly embarrassed how long this job took ;) it was the best part of a day!
It was just fitting a latch to my front hatch




Seamonkey_H2024
VIC, 344 posts
28 May 2014 10:14PM
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Select to expand quote
keensailor said..

I am slightly embarrassed how long this job took ;) it was the best part of a day!
It was just fitting a latch to my front hatch






Well done, looks solid!

nswsailor
NSW, 1439 posts
28 May 2014 10:42PM
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keensailor said..

I am slightly embarrassed how long this job took ;) it was the best part of a day!
It was just fitting a latch to my front hatch






Mmmm, you will have to get the hack saw out Keensailor and cut a few of those long bolt tails off.

Then it will be a great job!

HG02
VIC, 5814 posts
28 May 2014 11:09PM
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nswsailor said..

keensailor said..

I am slightly embarrassed how long this job took ;) it was the best part of a day!
It was just fitting a latch to my front hatch






Mmmm, you will have to get the hack saw out Keensailor and cut a few of those long bolt tails off.

Then it will be a great job!


Absolutely you cant put photos like that up here a half finished job . Just how many beers did it take so far ????

keensailor
NSW, 699 posts
29 May 2014 9:06PM
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Select to expand quote
HG02 said..

nswsailor said..

keensailor said..

I am slightly embarrassed how long this job took ;) it was the best part of a day!
It was just fitting a latch to my front hatch






Mmmm, you will have to get the hack saw out Keensailor and cut a few of those long bolt tails off.

Then it will be a great job!


Absolutely you cant put photos like that up here a half finished job . Just how many beers did it take so far ????


lol...I would'nt have gotten close to finishing it if I had a lager. I would have sat around and cranked up the stereo.

Seamonkey_H2024
VIC, 344 posts
29 May 2014 10:57PM
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keensailor said..
lol...I would'nt have gotten close to finishing it if I had a lager. I would have sat around and cranked up the stereo.




'foreigner' no doubt

HG02
VIC, 5814 posts
1 Jun 2014 2:29PM
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Filled in and sanded back to make ready for two pack after that adding a new door hinge and also redoing the sound proofing. I still have to fill in the old engine loom cut out top left hand side





A job I'm not looking forward to is this one cleaning and repairing any thing behind the engine and then replacing all the sound proofing . So if you don't here from me for a few weeks you will know I'm stuck behind the engine and cant get out





Maybe I should just take engine out and do it properly check the engine mounts do any thing thats needed to the motor trans and then clean and paint out the bilge would be easier and a far better job
Ill get Mangrovefrog to sail by and use his boom as a engine crane



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"What did you do to your sailing boat today ?" started by Boatin