Select to expand quoteHG02 said...Donk107 said...
Hi HG
I am trying to get my head around the first photo of the bulkhead you posted
Does it run vertically from under the mizzen mast to the hull and box in the rear of the engine and transmission
Replacing the 1/4 berth with the head is a interesting idea especially if you can improve access to the engine, transmission and shaft at the same time
Regards Don
Yes Donk
It boxes in the engine trans compartment there is lots of room behind this as well wasted space not heavy storage but it is wasted space.
In the last photo Donk on the left down the back of the bunk you can see the Bulk head Im talking about thats the back of the engine bay
I took a bit of a chance last night bought a teak bed head cheap on Flea bay but I am a little worried its veneer Ill find out today.
Hope its solid not veneer I think it will be the seller will freak when I get my saw out to make it fit in the car 
If its veneer Ill just pay him and tell hi to sell it for me again only $20 its not far from work
I do think its solid teak. a piece of the bed head will be my new mounting for my gear shift /throttle mount if its solid and the rest will be used on my settee cupboards( Teak window shutters)
Hi HG
Where does the fuel tank mount on yours ?
Regards a Don
Hi Donk
My fuel tank is under the floor I have three compartments the compartment nearest the stove cabinet is fuel the middle compartment water and just before the forward bulk head is a small compartment. Between the water and the forward compartment is a depth sounder / speed log
Hey Cisco
that jib track is not used once you fit a Furler it could be used for a storm jib.
When I remove the hatch cover I will also be removing the main sheet traveler off the hatch cover.
I will be fitting the main sheet into the cockpit mounting it off the mizzen there other Walker H28's down here set up like this also it make a better fit for a spray dodger later on the block on the boom will be move further back
I think Ill just put the Engine control back where it is for now see how it all works together
Select to expand quoteHG02 said...
Hey Cisco
When I remove the hatch cover I will also be removing the main sheet traveler off the hatch cover.
I will be fitting the main sheet into the cockpit mounting it off the mizzen there other Walker H28's down here set up like this also it make a better fit for a spray dodger later on the block on the boom will be move further back
Good move. I have always believed the main sheet and traveller controls should be within reach of the helmsman.
Select to expand quotecisco said...HG02 said...
Hey Cisco
When I remove the hatch cover I will also be removing the main sheet traveler off the hatch cover.
I will be fitting the main sheet into the cockpit mounting it off the mizzen there other Walker H28's down here set up like this also it make a better fit for a spray dodger later on the block on the boom will be move further back
Good move. I have always believed the main sheet and traveller controls should be within reach of the helmsman.
Hi Cisco
On the boat I race on we constantly work the main (and tweaker) and traveller (sometimes when it is blowing we have a man on each one) that are located in the cockpit but on my Sailmaster where my wife and I just cruise it is nice to have a uncluttered cockpit with the main and traveller on the cabin roof and with the long tiller both are reasonably close at hand to the helmsman if you need to dump them in a hurry
Regards Don
Select to expand quote said..cisco said...HG02 said...
Hey Cisco
When I remove the hatch cover I will also be removing the main sheet traveler off the hatch cover.
I will be fitting the main sheet into the cockpit mounting it off the mizzen there other Walker H28's down here set up like this also it make a better fit for a spray dodger later on the block on the boom will be move further back
Good move. I have always believed the main sheet and traveller controls should be within reach of the helmsman.
Hi Cisco
On the boat I race on we constantly work the main (and tweaker) and traveller (sometimes when it is blowing we have a man on each one) that are located in the cockpit but on my Sailmaster where my wife and I just cruise it is nice to have a uncluttered cockpit with the main and traveller on the cabin roof and with the long tiller both are reasonably close at hand to the helmsman if you need to dump them in a hurry
Regards Don
What they do on the ketch is leave the track on the hatch cover turn the main sheet block so the last bitter end is at the top on the boom then run it parallel to the boom to the mizzen and a block there running the main sheet down the mizzen to the cock pit floor Ill take some photos of it in the next few weeks Donk
Had a great sail with my lovely wife. Morning Bird, the hull a bit dirty, moved well in about 15kts of breeze. I saw 6.5kts a couple of times and averaged 5.5.
We were looking for whales but must have been between pods.
Had a coffee and watched an episode of Blackadder WW1 back on the mooring.
A beautiful sailing yacht. There is no drama when sailing an S&S.
sort of busy this weekend refurbishing a few free laptops One for the boat But ended down at the boat this afternoon . Settled as to where I will place my solar controller as I will fit the engine gages and start stop system in the cockpit over the next month after making some sort of weather proof insert
Turned on my first LED light just to see how it looked in the dark
Select to expand quoteMorningBird said..
Had a great sail with my lovely wife. Morning Bird, the hull a bit dirty, moved well in about 15kts of breeze. I saw 6.5kts a couple of times and averaged 5.5.
We were looking for whales but must have been between pods.
Had a coffee and watched an episode of Blackadder WW1 back on the mooring.
A beautiful sailing yacht. There is no drama when sailing an S&S.
Sounds like a great day. I disconnected my (non operational) coursemaster hydraulic auto pilot so that I can fit a raymarine ST 4000+ that I had for an unfurnished project.
I was super impressed with the quality of the hardware for the coursemaster.
Mangrovefrog
Have you checked your water pump impellor this make me think its not pumping enough seawater though your exhaust?
sms me where you are this week want to drop off some ting for you
Impellor was cold once i shut it off, did get hot, close to 100 degrees.. what happens often when i put the revs up to 70 %.. its not cooling properly so i lower revs then pull it up again.. it can stay cool at full power but ive got to go inside to check the temp guage if that impellor is syphoning properly..
I was motoring for hours.. noticed the temp while making a cuppa.. reset throttle, half hour later i noticed drop in revs.. i guess all the fumes and black plastic smoke in engine compartment was strangling the old girl.. so i just bypassed the lock with the gooseneck hose whilst under sail then bought 2 meters of rubber exhaust for double loop fitted next day. Damn, was just getting motivated to doing something else.
Select to expand quotemangrovefrog said..
Impellor was cold once i shut it off, did get hot, close to 100 degrees.. what happens often when i put the revs up to 70 %.. its not cooling properly so i lower revs then pull it up again.. it can stay cool at full power but ive got to go inside to check the temp guage if that impellor is syphoning properly..
I was motoring for hours.. noticed the temp while making a cuppa.. reset throttle, half hour later i noticed drop in revs.. i guess all the fumes and black plastic smoke in engine compartment was strangling the old girl.. so i just bypassed the lock with the gooseneck hose whilst under sail then bought 2 meters of rubber exhaust for double loop fitted next day. Damn, was just getting motivated to doing something else.
do you check the water coming out of the exhaust mangrove frog . I check mine at least every half hour when I motor
when was the last time the water pump impeller in the water pump was replaced Mangrove frog?
Ive torn the whole waterworks down (300 hours) 6 months ago.. it is possible there is plastic debris caught in the gooseneck? And that raw water seacock dosent close properly!! Prolly dont open fully either... otherwise, its cooling well most of the time.. if that propellor wasnt pitched to push my tub along at 5.5 knots absolutely screaming, i prolly have had less trouble.
mgf
Not sure if this is relevant to your situation, but have seen this problem on a MV once before....
Even when the impeller may be in good condition; your inner metal walls on the pump can wear thus not providing adequate suction at low rpm. Some pumps you can rotate the outer plate, otherwise replacement can be done.
Select to expand quoteSirJman said..
mgf
Not sure if this is relevant to your situation, but have seen this problem on a MV once before....
Even when the impeller may be in good condition; your inner metal walls on the pump can wear thus not providing adequate suction at low rpm. Some pumps you can rotate the outer plate, otherwise replacement can be done.
even the outer plate might have to much clearance as well
after destroying 6 steak knives and a really good fishing knife I finally removed the hatch cover fir refurbishment
36 years of collective dirt under it 
I did a quick wiring job to add my engine battery to the solar controler yeaterday the controller was reading 12.4 volts after connection tonight after work it was reading 13.9 . Tomorrow I think the sun has decided that Queensland has had enough and will be out in Melbourne so should be interesting .
When I get the next sunny weekend down here Il put up some photo's of the reading from the controller while experimenting with shade on the panel .Ill try and mimic boom and mast shade see what volts I get
The panel is only temp fitted to the roof .
What Ive found so far is rain sits on the panels as I do not have enough slope for it to run off
By the way
It took me half an hour to work aout a way of fitting the hatch cover in my Mitsubishi lancer so I could shut the door
Its certainly possible impellor housing is worn sideways, time to discard the thin gasket and use silicon.. much appreciated sirjman and mind me for hogging this awesome post.
Select to expand quotemangrovefrog said..
Its certainly possible impellor housing is worn sideways, time to discard the thin gasket and use silicon.. much appreciated sirjman and mind me for hogging this awesome post.
Donk put up a nice bronze water pump plate to suit the bukh water pumps
Scrubbed the slime off her dinghy's bottom, rowed out to her, said hello sweetheart, gave her a set of ring/open end spanners, started her engine up, put a couple of fenders out and rigged a couple of mooring lines on her starboard side, pulled in 13 metres of anchor chain till it was straight up and down, put her in ahead and drove her until the stem dipped when the anchor broke out, pulled the muddy anchor up and then drove her over to the outside finger of the marina and put her alongside starboard side to.
I then put rubber mats under her two bladder water tanks and filled the tanks with water and bled the plumbing. Filling the tanks proved what I had believed all along and that is that she needs another 100 litre water tank port side aft to balance her up and that 100 litres of water under the fwd bunk is probably not the best place to have it.
That done it was then time to lay the anchor and chain out on the marina and get the twist out of the chain caused by being anchored for too long in the one spot. The weed and mud on the chain and anchor had to be dealt with too.
A quick hose off of the uppers to get rid of the bulk of the bird poo and I put her back out on the pick.
A very satisfying afternoon just doing boat things.
Time not spent messing about in boats is wasted. 
Not a lot have the flue or some thing thats not nice
Measured the hatch entrance one meter
ordred some aluminum composte panels 3mm thick white satin gloss there been dropped off already
Also took a couple of photos of the solar controller with a old seat cover thrown over one half Ill put those up now
13.8 is with the old seat cover thrown over the solar panel
The above photo is before I put the seat cover over the solar panel
I have a slight problem here me thinks Ill need to do so repair work what do you think Cisco and Donk
Also forgot I ran my solar panel wires in through the deck via under the hatch cover and ran them back to the controller all sealed up 
Had a play with my leds treid a few spots beofre I place them I have dimmers 
on the four above and also a dimmer for the two below. Thought I better try them out before permanently fitting them
Select to expand quoteHG02 said..
I have a slight problem here me thinks Ill need to do so repair work what do you think Cisco and Donk
Also forgot I ran my solar panel wires in through the deck via under the hatch cover and ran them back to the controller all sealed up
Not sure what we are looking at there HG02. Looks like where there was a mast compression post once. Put one in there before you restep the mast and tension the rig up. I think you will have to do a bit of glass work before though.
I have not had much experience with glass.
Im not a real expert on glass either Cisco. Ill be getting some advice thats for sure . Ill make sure she'll take more than a standard walker H28 before I'm finished
with this bad bit Cisco
Hi HG
I have looked at your photo's but I don't really understand what your concern is
I can see where the mast mounts above the bulkhead there is a slight depression in the deck
Is this what you are concerned about
When you talk about fitting stainless L brackets what would the purpose of them be
In the original brochure you sent me a while ago there is no compression post shown ?
Regards Don
Select to expand quoteDonk107 said..
Hi HG
I have looked at your photo's but I don't really understand what your concern is
I can see where the mast mounts above the bulkhead there is a slight depression in the deck
Is this what you are concerned about
When you talk about fitting stainless L brackets what would the purpose of them be
In the original brochure you sent me a while ago there is no compression post shown ?
Regards Don
The depression worries me Donk Ill take the trim off the forward cabin side of the bulkhead and see what going on and make sure theres no rot in the bulk head
When you look at it on deck it looks like its been tressed Ill take a better photo tomorrow
HG
In the photo's the depression in the deck doesn't look that bad and unless you had a post directly under it you would expect to see something
You would imagine the 2 verticals on either side of the opening would be supporting a horizontal across the top that is taking the weight of the mast but it would have to be very substantial to show zero depression in this area
When you look at the size of the post under my mast I would imagine it would be hard to offer the same amount of support above a door opening although perhaps mine is bigger than what is required
It would be interesting getting the opinion of a shipwright before ripping the cover off inside
Regards Don
Select to expand quoteDonk107 said..
HG
In the photo's the depression in the deck doesn't look that bad and unless you had a post directly under it you would expect to see something
You would imagine the 2 verticals on either side of the opening would be supporting a horizontal across the top that is taking the weight of the mast but it would have to be very substantial to show zero depression in this area
When you look at the size of the post under my mast I would imagine it would be hard to offer the same amount of support above a door opening although perhaps mine is bigger than what is required
It would be interesting getting the opinion of a shipwright before ripping the cover off inside
Regards Don
Ill email Bernie Webber get his opinion ( he works out of Williams Town)
The bulk head appears to be around 19 mm thick behind the trim maybe a little bit more
Hi HG
To be honest to me ( I have no experience building boats) looking at the photo's you posted it doesn't look too bad but you are in a much better position than me to judge
Regards Don
