Wow!
On the plus side, the blank looks all set for a relamination and ply with whatever bottom curve you want experiment with.
Maybe new art?
Glad half full...glass half full...
It will be a board for my daughter to learn on, and it will probably need to stay essentially a nose rider.
I can change most things, but there's very little I can do about the rocker, I may get an extra 1/2 inch out of the nose, but that's about it.
The number one thing I'll be fixing is the rails, this was an experiment that was doomed to failure, I think I knew that before I even put glass on it.
I'm also using it as a test bed for UV resin, I've never used it before.
From teh photos I saw it looked like you kept the thickness in the foil for a fair way up ?
What are you going to do with the rails?
Not happy with the UV resin?
I was looking for something slightly knify but still maintaining the thickness, in the end all I ended up with was something similar to useless down rails, that went over 2/3 the way up the board.
that will be easy to fix, I'll just soften them by hand with screenback gauze, but in doing so, I'll probably make it too narrow for my fat arse.
I'll also get rid of the roll from mid pint back and make it more of a vee.
I don't want to remover the fin box if I can help it, so a flat bottom is out of the question.
My family will not tolerate me using MEKP again, they really get the poops with the smell.
Well, stripping your board was probably a better option than surfing at Lugga yesterday morning......
Looking forward to seeing you down the beach teaching your daughter.... its neat surfing with your offspring.
You up for it this arvo MR?
I can text you if there's something happening.
It's building from the south.
Select to expand quoteobct said..
I was looking for something slightly knify but still maintaining the thickness, in the end all I ended up with was something similar to useless down rails, that went over 2/3 the way up the board.
Cut a length of timber on a 30 degree and then attach a surform blade and use it on teh btoom of teh rail this will bring the bottom edge "up" for teh top I alway find that I have more rail than I know waht to do with and like to cut them down to 1 1/4 inch from teh bottom in two rail bands if that makes sense
haha nice job removing the glass. I did that to the first fibreglass board I ever owned, glass took some foam with it & had to be sanded. I then went & glassed with a brush rather than a squeegee...board ended up weighing about 1/2 a ton
I've heard of a guy in the states who uses compressed air to remove the glass, not exactly sure how he does it, but apparently it comes off really clean .
I just use a routed around the apex of the rail and bump off the glass with a very blunt bolster and the heal of my hand. Then once all the rails are done I just peal it back
Yeah air & A scraper (wood handled metal thingo) would probably work well. My first job I was a chopper gunner, basically like a resin/catalyst spraygun with rovings shooting out onto a mould to be hand laminated (rolled). Trimmed at semi set & then blown off with air/scaper. You would wanna do some cuts like you did also, but probably cleaner than cutting/peeling alone.
Coming on mate you didn't just glue it, did you cut it down for your daughter nice art btw
The colour wasn't my choice, it was simply left over from a toy crib my wife painted. Because the edge of the rear was damaged in the stripping, I needed a dark colour to cover the foam insert
I had no intention of wasting too much time and money on it, so a lot of it was glassed using off cuts joined together , and because the fin box was so high, there are some areas of the tail that have 4 layers of glass
The board is only designed to be a very stable platform so a Learner can get to her feet, so it's still almost 4 inches thick. Apart from that:
The tail had to be narrowed a lot due to the damaged foam
There is a much deaper conk in the front, not because it's needed, but because I had to max out the nose kick in what is essentially a very flat blank
The biggest change is the rails, they're now higher and much softer
Select to expand quoteobct said..
I found some really good glue and stuck it back together again 
I'm not seeing a legrope plug
I kept the original through the box leash loop in place and just filled it with blu tac while I did the glassing, then just redrilled it
The paint is from a rust preventative range, there's a few other nice colours in the range so I'll try to take a pic of the can when I get home, not the cheapest, because I needed so many coats to cover the damage, I had to get another can, 11 or 12 bucks
Tilt you head.
It's remarkable what a few small changes can make.
Lifted the nose about 12mm
Lengthened the nose conc and maybe made it a fraction deeper
Got rid of the rolled bottom and did a slight double conc from midway, running out to a small vee in the tail
Narrowed the tail, (not intentionally)
went to an area pin from a diamond
Raised the rails and softened them for the majority of the board.
Hey presto, all of a sudden I can turn it without the rails digging in and me getting spat off.
Against my better judgement I took a decent drop knowing for sure I would bury her, and as soon as the nose touched the bottom, she refused to go under.
It will be interesting to see if it can still support me up near the nose, I tried everything this morning to get a nose ride, but the surf just would not cooperate.
If this keeps up, I may redo the filler coat and give it a proper sand rather than the rushed 2 bob job I did.
I did what I usually do, no gloss coat, just filler, then on the top and bottom I dry sand down the 320, then I wet n dry down to 600. I then go down to 800 on the underside and just do a little of the wore out 800 sheet on the top, mostly around the top side of the rails and the tail area, where there will be some drag through the water . I've worked out a way to wet sand using an elcheapo orbital sander.
I then only compound the rails and the bottom.
I do it that was for a reason, but I forget what the reason is.
Something to do with the difference between a displacement hull and a planning hull. Honestly, I'm so forgetful 
BTW, does UV resin go off under a normal light? The lady in surfblanks said it would so I didn't use it? That day you showed me how quick the kick was, you had to take it outside in the sun before it would gel.
I'm sure I could glass better if I could use UV.
3 weeks to get it done Obs 
hurry up champion she'll need another week then to be pristine for Roadtrip III
Select to expand quoteobct said..
I did what I usually do, no gloss coat, just filler, then on the top and bottom I dry sand down the 320, then I wet n dry down to 600. I then go down to 800 on the underside and just do a little of the wore out 800 sheet on the top, mostly around the top side of the rails and the tail area, where there will be some drag through the water . I've worked out a way to wet sand using an elcheapo orbital sander.
I then only compound the rails and the bottom.
I do it that was for a reason, but I forget what the reason is.
Something to do with the difference between a displacement hull and a planning hull. Honestly, I'm so forgetful
BTW, does UV resin go off under a normal light? The lady in surfblanks said it would so I didn't use it? That day you showed me how quick the kick was, you had to take it outside in the sun before it would gel.
I'm sure I could glass better if I could use UV.
it will go off slower without direct sunlight but it will still go off...if you remember my old shed...the awning at the side...I have left boards there to go off and it was raining...zilch sunshine...still goes off just takes longer...try it you will never go back.
hang on just re read your question...you didn't use it because she said it WOULD go off....you have to use it under fluorescent light or incandescent light then any NORMAL light will set it off 
