had some really fun surfs lately. nothing super special,but heaps of fun nonetheless, surfed with the farmer yesterday...he still has the moves...until he gets puffed out on the paddle....oh and sorry pup,i could not drop in on him,because that is the big mans forte he burnt me badly...his excuse was laughable scored some super nice walls at snapper today amongst the the ****ing carnage that is the place I love to hate
alley. crowded as. car parking is off the dial. ended up going back home and walking around from lacey's lane.
when will it ease off.
paddled out- copped some on the head, paddled out a bit further- same thing again.
paddle out more and just sneaked over another couple .
sets were 5 ft. I had no idea it was that big.
got some good 'ns.
how ever my new board being light just got me smashed trying to pop the board over.
looks like for the first time in my life im going to have to learn how to do the eskimo rol- its not a natural thing to do for mel
Had a bunch of fun set waves on my 7'6" Woosley vquad at Granite.
Before going around there I spied Derek Hynd in the car park checking out another guys finless board. I've seen him out at Tea tree during a solid 4' plus day a few years back and at Nationals during a much smaller day where we had a chat about finless surfing.
The coincidental thing I was just talking to another stall holder at Eumundi about him yesterday and showed the guy the clip of Derek surfing Jbay.
He's a Brazzo hpsb guy so he was amazed.
So I had a chat and the board pictured is his old one from Glass love (Skip Frye glider?) that he routed out the fin box and put in a deep central concave with 2 outer concaves running down the rails to make it work finless.
As I was walking around to Granite and I'm on the path near the slanted jump off rock a set comes through and there's major hooting going on in the water and I look over and there's DH taking off on his board while sitting down and runs along the wall and then up to the lip and slides 45 degress back down and keeps going still sitting on his board.
If it was anyone else sitting on an 11'er and taking off on a set wave in front of a slew of people there'd be screams of terror and cursing and yelling.
Caught up with a guy called Mark who'd just bought himself a surfed once 7'6" McTavish tracker. He was loving it. We traded set waves and got to see him pull a lovely bottom turn on it from the ledge as we'd both paddled for it (I pulled back of course since I was on his outside).
For a while I thought I was in Byron or something what with all the hipsters clogging up the place.
I even found myself in Noosa longboards eyeing up a Tom Wegener short single fin...time for an intervention?
here's a shot of Teatree.
Nice story CF. Glad you got some good ones. Would love to see DH on his no find again. Incredible to watch
I reckon the swell from the West Oz cyclone should be hitting Bali by tomorrow. But it was already fairly sizey on the Bali East coast this morning. If I were Ted I'd be taking a look a few K's North of Keramaz or Sri Lanka (reef off Nusa Dua), tides high early morning. It will be absolutely cranking on the East Coast tomorrow...barstards
im with ya snake man people doing helicopters on long boards were called out in the late 90's /2000's,and this finless stuff is now "cool"the lads that ride alias yes ..old bashed up boards doing 360's on the face of the wave NO!
man them 360 things look good above the lip!
I didn't mention the plagues of loggers still in contest mode out there legrope-less as well.
Watched for a little while at Nationals and there was the inevitable clang, clang, bang, bang of volan vs boulders.
woke up this morn like the old footy days.
sore from head to toe from yesterdays shore break madness ,,sucked in a couple of big breaths and backed it up today.
so glad i did,,,frothing like grom ATM