Went for a walk along the coast with the Mrs yesterday morning. Stopped at Trigg Point and sat on the beach for a while... must have been 100+ surfers out in 3ft with 4ft sets that occassionally had some shape, but all too often just closed out after about 15-20m...
Saw a lot of near misses and was somewhat surprised I didn't see someone come out bleeding... couple of guys going out without leggies and even a Dad pushing his 6yo on to re-forms. Surf school and clubbies dominated 1st car park.
Was absolutely mad.
Down towards 2nd and 3rds it was just about unsurfable due to it pitching/dumping so fast - still a fair heap of crew trying.
Have seen a few surfing the 'kiddie' reef just north of Trigg island - and even the small right just north of the Trigg dog beach... I guess it's just people trying to spread out and find a wave without 50 other people chasing it...
What a blood bath it would have been this morning, 9 cars at the big "D" carpark- 05:45am. By 06:10am after a very disapointing surf check, (fat straight handers with morning sickness) there was around 25-30!! majority of boys suiting up too.
I'm still shaking my head wondering WTF 8 hrs later.
Did it get any better??
pros now converging onto everything....its time for another hybernation. awesome looking week ahead, try early...or late, its about to get metrorized!
Sat 02/04/11
Trigg Point 3-4ft with 15-19kn NE winds - 70-80 out. When it hits the reef right, the rights are good and long with a hollow 'head duck' section before closing out on the inside. Shifting peak, so 1 in 6 OK, otherwise BIG close-out...
Saw a girl on the beach with blood all over her face , and a little further down the beach a snapped board...
1st - 3rd carparks 95% dumpers - only the small waist high ones had a shoulder... nothing at Contacio's / Underpass.
Mettams and Toms surprisingly small [and uncrowded] given the swell.
Tiny wave at Seconds and Grabbers...
70-80 out. Close outs, bleeding people, carnage..sounds inviting. though I might sit in my den and listen to Charles Mingus instead. less chance of a fin through the noggin.
good luck to those brave little soldiers north of the river.
Just got back from Trigg - 5:00pm Sunday.
Took the boy down for a bodyboard at 1st carpark mid arvo... glassy two footers - fast breaking to dumpers. Walked down to Scarbs - full on neck-snapping shoulder high dumpers. Low low tide...
...saw a 10yo come out of the water "Dadddddd!!..." with his board in two pieces .
Going back down for a beer & burger and watch the sun go down.
lots of foreign bodies in and out of the water. locals still swiping a few from under there feet with some good tubes going down Sat. looks like some solid hitting thurs?
Yeah the end of the week is looking like a ripper, hopefully.
Might head up to Lancelin cause I know the crowds will be out.
Surfed at mettams north for about two hours on Saturday morning, wasnt bad untill people saw there was a wave there so it got crowded quick
I parked the car there and walked to the Point... (bloody Trigg carparks were full again). So might have seen you without knowing...
BTW - broke my hand (in 3 places) and a rib in that cycling stack i mentioned - so still out of action F@#$!!!
Yeah - I've seen a few good days on Metts rights - prob my last good surf was there... just gotta watch the rocks!
Just snuck in a cheeky 30 minute sesh at Trigg.
Pretty good banks rolling through, not really any barrles but still nice steep waves. A bit crowded but I was getting a wave a minute cause they were very constant.
Pretty stoked
Scored glassy waves from midday Sunday arvo til about 3. Not too far from the big smoke, not too crowded as well....bliss. Got some from the takeff peak to the beach. One of the cleaner arvo surfs I hve had in a while.
Just went and had a few beers at the carpark at the south cott reef. A few dudes out scoring some okay waves considering it was after 6pm.
Hit up Trigg this arvo after work.
Was cranking. Good size, frequent but the wind was ****ing with it a lot and quite a lot of bros out.
Still, got a few real decent rides, managed to land on a jellyfish on a wipeout...so now I'm sore as ****
Tomorrow or Friday that place will be going nuts.
haha, I wont even get a paddle in on friday I don't think...maybe a quick one down at Cott cause it's close. Gotta drive up to Lancelin Friday arvo. Saturday is looking sweet with the wind :D
Friday will be awesome. Every year I and every other numbskull paddle out on the first swell of the year at the metro beaches with the straight banks. And we sit and we sit, waiting for something that doesn't close out. And it's overhead and dumping. Boards are snapping and it generally is a waste of time. Amusing.