Legions surf report :: Daily updates..

This is more of a rant with surf conditions thrown in.
Friday at work had to get a tender in was supposed to be in yalls for longboard round Saturday....

didnt go, many many complex reasons why but really it was about time and not having enough of it.

saturday the comp was held in fun looking waist to chest height glassy waves, I seen photos and my heart died a little, sure it wasn't that good I told myself as I shoved a pen in my ear aiming for my pea sized brain. Due to the length of the pen and the size of my brain no damage was done and I curled up in a ball sucking my thumb and rocking myself to sleep.

I awoke on Sunday at 6 am to three texts from two different humans surfing novelty / croshore spots down there, both of whom thought I was in town and would like to share a couple rippity tubular sort of fun waves that we are denied living in the concrete jungle that is Perth.

I texted back with the great news that whilst I'd love to I couldn't join them as I worked late Friday ran out of time and tried to stick a pen into my brain and failed.

With a rage burning inside me that could fuel an atomic submarine for 50 years on an intergalactic voyage I journeyed down to good old trigg, hey it's 630 let's just make the most of it you miserable piece of ship.

I arrived to knee to waist maybe chest straighthanders with a bit of shoulder that broke into another section of the same straight hander.

Oh yippee I yelled as I skipped down the beach clicking my heels.

I forced myself to go out and surfed for a timeframe of no more than 40 minutes and no less than half an hour, proceeded to catch 4 or 5 "waves" ( waves: description not completely accurate)

when I felt that enough nuclear rage had been consumed I came in, it was disgraceful.

I got home and mowed the lawn and did cabana boy jobs for the rest of the day for my wife.
clean this, fix that , my soul was fulfilled with happy memories of the weekend and the joy that being stuck in Perth brings on some weekends.

I went about my business at work today, and received some more texts, double head reef breaks , the bays were head height and plus some in some of them , light winds and pretty decent swell direction.

I drove home and realised what a wonderful three days ( and tomorrow too) it had been for every other surfer I know.

Checked the bank account as I thought it's best I just go see a therapist or someone who can perform a lobotomy just to help.

Couldnt afford it

So I wrote this post instead.

I know what comedy is and this weekend was the opposite

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JESUSGUS said..
Kick in the swell with favourable winds tomorrow. Hope the local has a few for the before work early.

If it's Metro you will be joined by 10000 frothers in a beforework frenzy scrapping over waves so straight that they are actually obtuse breaking into ankle deep banks supplemented by a vengeful backwash intent on board/body damage.....all in the hunt for a mythical 10m ride

and that's the optimist in me

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JulianRoss said..
soooo,
The rock was good yesterday.
...and yes Mr Fin, the arms are sore and the eyes are sun burnt.....

I assume 'the rock' is that unaffordable paradise on the horizon...

Well I hope you're feeling sorry for yourself. ??
I went North with the promise of crystal perfection but was met with lacklustre inconsistency. Then came the incessant wind. Followed by the persistent kooks.

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Buster fin said..

JulianRoss said..
soooo,
The rock was good yesterday.
...and yes Mr Fin, the arms are sore and the eyes are sun burnt.....

I assume 'the rock' is that unaffordable paradise on the horizon...

Well I hope you're feeling sorry for yourself. ??
I went North with the promise of crystal perfection but was met with lacklustre inconsistency. Then came the incessant wind. Followed by the persistent kooks.

Yes, in the time honourd tradition of not naming a break, but giving a clue to those in the know, the rock could well be that unaffordable paradise on the horizon. It is also a haven for the surf starved very average abilities surfer just needing a fix. The kings ransom that i paid to indulge in the wave feast will count as naught at the end of my life, but some of those waves.... well.... there is no description. No it wasn't epic, but in contrast to the slop on offer in the metro area, it was consistent, fun sized, great shape and long rides. No further description out of respect for Razz's state of mind.
Am I feeling sorry for myself? Nope, not a bit. Muscle pain and sore eyes are the currency of joy for this old man. If I'm feeling fit and loose, it's because I've been doing too much prep and not enough surfing. I wear my rigid movements and groans as I bend over as a badge of honour.'
Typical conversation today:
'Why are you sore JR? "
'oh because I surfed the rock with only 5 out. Big session.. yep bit sore..'
"Bastard"

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MickPC said..
Sorry Raz ...on the upside that is potential post of the year comedy

Gas Bomb 7am this morning, boys were getting shacked, photo taken from about 2.5km away. I was looking for some grunt, decided on less grunt.

I got flogged yesterday.

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MickPC said..

thedrip said..

MickPC said..
Sorry Raz ...on the upside that is potential post of the year comedy

Gas Bomb 7am this morning, boys were getting shacked, photo taken from about 2.5km away. I was looking for some grunt, decided on less grunt.

I got flogged yesterday.

Same, woke up with a very stiff neck today due to going over the falls on a couple of bombs after the wind kicked in...sore but stoked

Hope ya score Raz, share some pics when ya get back

Aaah....see you are assuming I got flogged catching waves. I couldn't even get out and got flogged trying to get in after giving up.

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MickPC said..
lol I opted for the South side of gtown & the Nth kicked in pretty much as we got there & made the double ups next to the indicator rock a little tricky at times

Had a better surf Wed, surfed 3 diff spots, was very nice in the arvo when that strong offshore backed off.

Mmm...northerly double ups...sounds inviting you're lucky you didn't push a bit hard and get horseshoed into the ledge/rocks.

Surfed Huzzas stretch this morning - bloody big! We watched the kamikaze and pros wrangle North Point, some awesome surfing going down ??

Went North but not too far
good fun, maybe too big and too West to be perfect but 100m rides were up for grabs when the waves cooperated.
Tomorrow and Wednesday could be exceptional further North

Didn't take any day off work didn't go down south working all week
called Monday tuesday as good from last week
havent surfed "waves" for a few weeks
reckon a few spots would of been on fire over last two days
Thank you for asking how happy I am on a scale of one to ten.
It is very low maybe 1-1.5
Sometimes you don't realise what scoring waves actually means to you until you don't get them for a few weeks...........

Surfed yesterday arvo with about 40 of my favourite boogers..First surf since New years so was enjoyable, if not fleeting..

5/10 now

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Buster fin said..
5/10 now

I think the numbering system is based on 1 point for every average meter/length of ride
A 5 out of ten would equate to about a 5 meter ride which sounds about right for this morning

Thanks Huey.