Found King Cara Eur 150
D2 Rex Pro Eur 350
D2 Lechner A390 Eur 1200
' /> Croconut Tri concave Eur 1500
I found those beauties on my favorite second hand web site www.leboncoin.fr/sports_hobbies/1388280312.htm?ca=12_s
It 's such a shame that France is so far away otherwise I would have bought and imported one of these.
Wow, nice find. I've always liked the look of the Croconut's!
150 Euro's is just such a crime to see for us down here looking for boards!
Select to expand quotesaltyheaven said..
D2 Obsessives only, click below....
This is from 2 years ago - just a few weeks after I got my Lechner, shortly before my el cheapo action camera decided it would be happier at the bottom of Pittwater.
Following on from my ummms and ahhs about sails... the deed has been done. The 8.4 has a new home, the 6.6 also has gone, the new 7.4 has been ordered with some specific tweaks to fill my slightly unusual requirements. I'm sailing around with the ancient Mistral Bi-radial 6.0 in the meantime, it's fun. If that's all I ever had I'd still be happy.
Nice ride Mikey 
You guys should be able to regroup 3-4 sailors in this fantastic bay regularly, post pics & videos here and restart the momentum
Let's go, just do it 
Hi to all avid readers of the Div II thread.
My Plan "A" (buying a good board) hasn't been successful so far so now I'm putting more time into Plan "B", building a new board. For this to happen I need to build the center spine first and for that I'll need a 2nd hand centerboard and mast track.
I've chosen parts off an RS:X as being suitable, as if the board turns out as good as I hope, I can upgrade the package to new gear easily. It also gives me some consistency if I sell this one and do another board down the track.
So I need the help of the Div II community to help me track down a 2nd hand RS:X centerboard and mast track I can use a Bic Techno mast track if it comes to that but the centerboard is the hardest to get.
As I'm looking at building this winter, I need to finalise something by end of April. I can't afford for it to drift into the following winter as I have another build slated for a world championships late in 2020 (that's plan "C").
Ask friends, ask family, any hints I can get to track them down would be appreciated.
Thanks
Geoff
Bring on plan B !!!
Just a thought.... Is the RS:X centreboard going to have enough oomf for you. Looks a might stingy on the chord.
A simple case and custom made pivoting board would be super easy to make and sweet as can be in use... As well as being made of something that you have certainty about a secondary bond to - not sure regarding RS:X case what the material is.
The Lechner arrangement is pretty simple and just uses the gasket friction to hold position. The Dobbelman arrangement was even simpler again. It is an alternative option anyhow if the RS:X doesn't pan out or show up.
Select to expand quoteJethrow said..
So I need the help of the Div II community to help me track down a 2nd hand RS:X centerboard and mast track I can use a Bic Techno mast track if it comes to that but the centerboard is the hardest to get.
The Bic Techno track is easy to get, but not particularly long. I bought one for doing up my M1 (a work in progress)- it was about the only thing I could get. Otherwise the RSX track may be an option.
Amazing video there Saltyheaven.
Clarence
You can get a new RSX track from ASAP Hong Kong for around 200 aud.Agree that the RSX cb might not be suitable. The CB o my Davidson is pretty basic but effective, pivots on a piece of dowel and held in place by the gaskets
You guys can also choose to copy & shape it wood or, again, use / modify a RB centerboard...
Remember the only limit being 700 mm max below hull.
Yeah, I know the RS:X isn't ideal at about 160mm chord but there really isn't much else available. A good smaller board can be better than a big badly shaped board and from experience i know it's easy to shape a bad board but hard to shape a good one. I'm not averse to taking molds but getting a suitable donor for a few weeks is also hard.
I've looked at the Singapore RS:X shop and it'd be about $600 for the lot. That's why I was considering second hand to start with that will be easily replaceable down the track.
Anyway, I'll keep looking...
Select to expand quoteJethrow said..
i know it's easy to shape a bad board but hard to shape a good one.
I'll make a board for you Geoff, if you would like that of course. It would be A1. 
You can even specify which NACA, or otherwise, section you'd like. You supply the Western Red and glass, resin etc, and make the case. (I can advise/help with that if needed too.) Alternatively I can help you through making a great one yourself! It's not so hard once you can do it. (Like everything else!)
Of course if you'd rather just buy one I'm not twisting your arm!
Hi all,
needing to replace the centreboard gaskets on my Davidson.The existing ones are pretty thick and look similar to the SB Phantom. Anyone have any thoughts or ideas ???
thanks
Pete
I used pattern maker's Mylar on the Dobbelman that I fixed up. It was pretty good I thought, although a little fragile. There's a picture somewhere earlier in this thread of fjdoug's Mylar Lechner gaskets.
It's also been suggested that sewing (or gluing perhaps) the Mylar to sailcloth makes it more durable. Makes sense although I haven't tried this.
i purchased this gasket from www.windpowerwindsurfing.com/ in the States
for a Mistral Equipe 2 - okay for a D2 ??
Select to expand quotesaltyheaven said..
I used pattern maker's Mylar on the Dobbelman that I fixed up. It was pretty good I thought, although a little fragile. There's a picture somewhere earlier in this thread of fjdoug's Mylar Lechner gaskets.
It's also been suggested that sewing (or gluing perhaps) the Mylar to sailcloth makes it more durable. Makes sense although I haven't tried this.
the pattern mylar is still working well on mine.
like Salty said ; you do need to treat it with care and don't carry your board with a hand in the centreboard case as you will crease the mylar.
it's great for a Div ll but I wouldn't use it on a raceboard .
Select to expand quotefjdoug said..saltyheaven said..
I used pattern maker's Mylar on the Dobbelman that I fixed up. It was pretty good I thought, although a little fragile. There's a picture somewhere earlier in this thread of fjdoug's Mylar Lechner gaskets.
It's also been suggested that sewing (or gluing perhaps) the Mylar to sailcloth makes it more durable. Makes sense although I haven't tried this.
the pattern mylar is still working well on mine.
like Salty said ; you do need to treat it with care and don't carry your board with a hand in the centreboard case as you will crease the mylar.
it's great for a Div ll but I wouldn't use it on a raceboard .
I've used (and i'm still using) Mylar gaskets in absence of anything else, but do recommend rubber, much stronger and durable.
Problem with Mylar, it is prone to break up at the front (soon or later) where the dagger board stands in vertical position...So usually I double it (see pic) ...It is also too flexible so water get's in massively going upwind, generating geyser at aft of the box. ...But otherwise still a good alternative when original lips are missing.
Slot gaskets. On my older RBs i use pattern mylar stitched in a dacron sleeve. Two separate pieces,slight overlap glued down using contact cement.Sailtape over the front. Works very well. Although the leading edge sailtape seems to wear thru n contact glue lets go periodically.On my 380 phantom ive just Epiglued 2mm rubber down. Slit it as per original.Its not as stiff as original gasket. Still lets water thru at speed. Will try the dacron as im not happy with the rubber. Dacron n mylar + Epiglue should be the bomb but cost more $. Is a bit more mucking around to set up but worth it i think.
I have ordered some gaskets for my phantoms from WIndpower in the US made from the 95A polyurethane sheet. Which I believe is the material used by Starboard and NP
I tried to buy some here in Brisbane but the thinnest I could find was 3mm, far to thick, the ones on the way from Wind power are just over 1.5mm. If I could find a source for thinner 95A polyurethane sheet then gasket problems would be solved
These guys in Sydney www.allplastics.com.au/engineering-plastics/polyurethane are saying 2mm as their thinnest.
Is that close enough?
Select to expand quoteJethrow said..
These guys in Sydney www.allplastics.com.au/engineering-plastics/polyurethane are saying 2mm as their thinnest.
Is that close enough?
Not sure, the windpower gasket is .062" which is 1.57mm. The 3mm material I had a go with was way to thick, no chance of pushing a centreboard through it.
The 95A reference relates to the hardness I think, perhaps a softer material in 2mm may work well.
Thanks for all the suggestions guys. have found this online from Binks marine in Adelaide. Comes in either 50 or 75mm wide. Loks like a good combination of mylar and sail cloth
Awesome!!! Looks fantastic.
I like that the board is winning out over finishing the walls.
I'm guessing that your camera knows which way is up and there is some data in the file that keeps it that way that must be being skipped by your pc somehow. Maybe open the image in an editor and ensure it is right way up before uploading?
i have a blog where i post pics regularily -- joewindsurfer.blogspot.com/
often they load on their side
found the trick
flip the picture and save it
go back and flip it upside right and save
voila- loads properly
DII, Raceboard, Formula.. closing the gap, railriding .. modern sails?
Hello DII fans and friends, another topic, bit long, but I hope not totally Off...
this year I took out my Lechner on the water after 30 years pause. I had some regatta experience before, using NS 1984 "Olympic" sail, triangel 6,3m2, 270 cm boom. Now I?ve rigged Gaastra VAPOUR 9,0/ 2008 /250 cm boom... as another alternative I can use NP RS EVO II 10,7 / 2010 /260cm boom.
Comment and recommendation welcomed :) ... now 2 questions:
1) What are the general disadvantages of using "formula" sails for DII and RACEBOARD. From some discussions I understand that sail twist is good for FW but not for raceboards. DII with "modern" sail was not discussed. Can somebody explain it?
2) I am able to railride on DII upwind, but when I tried to "close the gap" board was sheeting upwind too much..
I found out that railriding is for me easier when masttrack is in middle /not forward/ ..but according to oldschool /?/ theory - center of hull gravity is than in front of sails COE. So I tried to move hull centre BACK = I use fin 41cm - bigger than original, as back as possible, daggerboard partly up (lean back).. but even that doesn ?t help much.
Does it need MORE wind and to have half of DII out of water ? /see pic/ :)
My recent experience is from session with VAPOUR 9,0/ wind only 12-14kt..
I have not seen many pics of DII riders closing the gap.. so I am curious ..is it common and usefull technique on DII and when?
What I think is relevant, that newer sails even if 40 or 70% bigger /my case/ have slightly shorter booms than original DII triangels.
I am 99 kg, 2 meter, oldschool WS fan, besides DII I have also old MISTRAL COMPETITION LCS 380cm /ancient raceboard / and old FORMULA STARBOARD 156 as well. Trying to be versatile and get the maximum from mostly light European inland winds / 10 - 25 knots/ on FLAT water only. I?m not good enough in any of 3 mentioned "disciplines", but trying. I prefere to use /even with LIMITS/ above mentioned 2 sails for all 3 board types. I have feeling /maybe totally wrong/, that if I get very familiar with sail, than it does not matter too much which board I have under feets.
Thanx for patience with maybe stupid questions, any comments welcomed... (pics for illustration and study only - from web, not me - unfortunatelly :)
Hi longandheavy,
1. I wouldn't worry about the 'slot'. If it happens naturally that's fine and if not that is fine too.
2. I have no experience with formula sails but due to their weight alone I would not put them on top of any list of desirable D2 sails. A 7.5 or 8.5 raceboard sail would be my choice, tight leech.
3. Leave your centreboard all the way down to encourage railing upwind. Tip the board back a touch if the railing gets too much. Big fins seem to me counter to the whole D2 concept, if you want to plane off the fin maybe a raceboard is a better choice.
4. You want to ride with the nose up in the air? I'm imagining that photo is a moment of rising up, bouncing if you like, from a trim that averages somewhat lower. Flat is fast. The Lechner a390 nose does ride reasonably high when fully powered up going downwind, but to artificially encourage it up is just inviting drag.
5. I think mast track position is more about fore and aft board trim than anything else and to my mind that usually means as far forward as can be, consistent with the need for keeping the nose from stuffing into waves. In light winds I would run forward on all points. In really light wind headed upwind, in the middle so as to have the rig balanced and light in my hands rather than held awkwardly tipped back, feet either side of the mast. To get to the very back of the track would take a solid 20+ knots and a decent chop, heading on a broad reach. Straight downwind in the same conditions I'd actually slip the track forward a touch and continuously try to edge my weight, and feet, forwards too. Fast and slippery, on the edge and a whole lot of fun!
Good luck!
Well the first sail on my D2 was a disappointment. Got down early to meet the high tide and get out before the big westerly kicked in. All was going well until the first tack, stepped to the front of the mast track and heard a crunching sound and felt the deck give way a bit underneath me, same in a couple of other places. I think the deck may be just to old and it's stuffed
