OK i'm looking at buying a van real soon.
now i've just enquired with a bloke about his nice looking Mazda LWB E2500 diesel and he seams to recall it only got about 450 -470 kms out of a 62L tank which works out to be as bad as 13.8L/100kms.
Now this may have been with his tools in the van and he may have a lead foot but comparing on redbook the equivalent Hiace is 10.2L/100kms and VW transporter 9.1L/100kms.
am i being too picky about fuel efficiency??? I guess i'm used to driving a commodore taxi around, so this is about 2L/100kms worse than what i'm used to. which equates to about $5 / 100kms more than a commodore which can go fast and overtake stuff on country roads!
What does your van do???
not sure on the kms/litre but check out the hyundai iload turbo diesel.
enough room to swing a cat (just make sure its not your own) and from all accounts heaps of power and good economy.
My Mitsubishi Delica gets about 11-12 l/100km city driving - regularly get over 500 km out of 58 litres (before the fuel light goes on, it's a 70 litre tank).
If you want a 4WD van then they're pretty good, if you don't need 4WD then there are better options around.
VW Caddy maxi TDI - currently getting 6.9 litres/100km with a full load of gear (nothing on roof) although it's only clocked up 2000k's so far. Should only get better.
2000 model auto Ford Econovan / Mazda on petrol and gas....
Petrol about 15litres per 100 Ks and gas about 17litres per 100ks...
Struggles for power on petrol and wouldn't pull the skin off a rice pudding on gas but it sure is handy so I will probably treat myself to a Euro van of some description next year.
I have a short wheelbase Econvan. It gets 400km from the 40 ltr tank around town or long trip. I used to have a long wheelbase, same model same motor which also got 400km per tank but had a bigger tank (can't recall exact size). But long wheelbase much better for storing gear in as the back was much longer! Good reliable vans though, I have had 5 or 6 over the years as work vans
Bertie, he is probably referring to when it hit "E" on the gauge... and it still has 10l left to go? Most people have never run it dry nor have they recorded litres used on long trips.
My 3L petrol 4WD (not van) does 12.5L/100 ..... a van is pushing a lot more air...... to get 10L/100 from a turbodiesel van is pretty damn good I'd suggest...... a 3L T/D Patrol does similar so why bother? Get the one u like.
1L/100 difference is $10 on a trip up north that you pay $600 for fuel, food and accom for one week 
Used to have a VW Transporter (diesel) which would do 10-12km/l. It was a great car with heaps on space in the back but I guess there aren't that many Transporters round here in Australia and that spare parts would be expensive.
Now we have a Delica and get the same K's as Nebbian. The Delica's are GREAT, love the spaece in the car, love that we can take it on the beach!
For more info on the Delica's check www.delicaclub.com
cheers
I have a 2003 Merc Vito 113 (petrol) and get approx 10L/100kms om the highway and about 12L/100 in stop start inner city traffic.
This is far better than the VS Commodore ute I had previously.
Hi, Berie,
My MB140D (LWB), 2.9L naturally aspirated diesel (about 7 YO) usually gets 10L/100km running around town and on windsurfing trips (90-100 KPH). It loses economy in headwinds, but it's hard to categorise.
Since I bought mine, three developments have occurred in van diesel engines:
- common rail injection
- turbocharging
- turbocharging with intercoolers
Each one of these decreased the fuel consumption of the engine. Even if you buy an older van, it might be worth your while going to Toyo/MB/VW/Hyundai dealers to check the fuel consumption stickers on the window, to get an idea of current figures (and all of the vans in these makes are common rail/turbo/intercooled).
There have been some high claims about low fuel consumption in van articles in Boards and Windsurfer magazines (41 mpg at speeds above 100 kph) and you might also care to search the Boards Van Forum for figures (but I am a little skeptical about their claims).
If you buy a diesel van, NEVER let the fuel get below 1/4 quarter full (the diesel fuel is a lubricant and coolant for the fuel pump and failed fuel pumps can cost over $2000 to repair) and ALWAYS buy from a reputable source (such as BP/Mobil/Caltex). It's not worth a repair bill for a fuel pump if you've got a gutfull of contaminated fuel and saved $0.02 cents per litre for the privilege.
Hope this helps,
WindmanV
Hi, Bertie,
My MB140D (LWB), 2.9L naturally aspirated diesel (about 7 YO) usually gets 10L/100km running around town and on windsurfing trips (90-100 KPH). It loses economy in headwinds, but it's hard to categorise.
Since I bought mine, three developments have occurred in van diesel engines:
- common rail injection
- turbocharging
- turbocharging with intercoolers
Each one of these decreased the fuel consumption of the engine. Even if you buy an older van, it might be worth your while going to Toyo/MB/VW/Hyundai dealers to check the fuel consumption stickers on the window, to get an idea of current figures (and all of the vans in these makes are common rail/turbo/intercooled).
There have been some high claims about low fuel consumption in van articles in Boards and Windsurfer magazines (41 mpg at speeds above 100 kph) and you might also care to search the Boards Van Forum for figures (but I am a little skeptical about their claims).
If you buy a diesel van, NEVER let the fuel get below 1/4 quarter full (the diesel fuel is a lubricant and coolant for the fuel pump and failed fuel pumps can cost over $2000 to repair) and ALWAYS buy from a reputable source (such as BP/Mobil/Caltex). It's not worth a repair bill for a fuel pump if you've got a gutfull of contaminated fuel and saved $0.02 cents per litre for the privilege.
Hope this helps,
WindmanV
My LWB Delica does the same l/100 as Nebs.
With the LWB, all the gear goes behind the seats (Even 118Ltr Super Sport).
It's the best windsurfing vehicle I've ever had
G'day Bertie, I used to have a swb Delica and have changed it for a lwb. I can fit the 127l ss in without moving the front seat forward..
On the subject of Delica's, with any grey import the fuel system differs from ours with regards to the sulfur content of the supplied diesel in Japan. Because they have a higher content their gaskets in the fuel pump need to be replaced when the get to Australia. Most reputable dealers will have this done as a requirement for Australian standards, some don't.
As a result some people have found themselves with a large bill to replace the entire pump. As much a $2000.00.
With regard to running the system dry, imo the damage that can occur is mainly the primary filter becoming clogged with inorganic matter that is allowed to build up in the fuel tank. The fuel pump is then overworked to the point of failure.
There can also be a problem for the unwary of repressurising the system after running dry. Some systems need to be manually primed before they can be restarted, usually the older models.
It's probably best to keep a decent amount of fuel in any pressurised system.
I think the best thing about the Delica is they're cheap enough, and reliable enough for the initial outlay. And I know that after two weeks away my car will still be where I parked it because it's so damned ugly, no-one will steal it 
My old 87 hiace gets about 300km to 350kms on a 40 litre tank on trips with all my gear, depends on the fuel, but it sucks it only has a 40 litre tank.. and only does 110 kmhr cumfy, only 4 speed which also sucks.. but it was cheap and look pretty cool which makes up for it..
I've got a '98 Hi-Ace AWD with a non turbo 2.8 diesel (imported model), and it uses at best 10L/100km on long trips (yeah 3 hours is long in Tassie!) and a bit more than that around town. I drive in cruise mode mostly. If you want a van, you have to be prepared to sacrifice a little on fuel and performance, unless you can afford one of the new smiccho models.
The only way to guage how much fuel is used is to fill your tank right up at the start of a trip, set your trip meter to 0, and then see how many Ks you have done when you fill it up again and compare that to how many L it took to fill the tank right up again. Many fuel guages must have a large reserve factor - my van apparently has a 65L tank, but after 500Km it registers empty - when I then fill up it will only take 50L.
My suggestion would be the Hyundai iload. One of mate mates just bought one and I can't recommend it enough. Drives like a car, quiet, fast (manual turbo diesel) and way better priced than anything from VW or Merc. Recently we took it on a trip to Coffs Harbour from Wollongong and it averaged 7.5L/100km travelling between 110-120kph, I think around town he said it gets around 10L/100. Best van money can buy atm imo and the warranty is epic.
The iLoad seems to stack up really well. My only problem with them is the lack of a step though between the front seats. That option comes in real handy in the Vito, my wife can get to our son in the back really easy if he unhappy etc, and the space between the seats is perfect for the extra length of my 9'6" SUP.
I would find it hard to own anything with 3 seats across the front after the convenience of not having that extra seat that you never use in the way.
My '99 Mitsubishi Express MWB Diesel usually does slightly better than 10L/100km. I usually fill up at around the 550km mark, usually about 50L.
That said its almost all freeway and i dont carry much weight
LWB Vito120 cdi v6
Gerro'-Carnarvon @ 110-115kph, 9.12L/100km, roof bars, inside loaded
Great handling/contol in the wet and dry, drives like its on rails, hard to get it totally out of shape before the fun police computer cuts in. They do a 4wd version in europe. I-Load looks like a good value buy though.
Hello, Stehsegler,
Can I tell you that I am a diesel mechanic, mainly working on truck engines.
A Mazda van of 1990’s/2000 vintage will have a separate high pressure pump feeding the injectors with high pressure fuel. The high pressure pump probably has oil in it to lubricate the drive shaft and bearings in the lower half of the pump. The pumping elements (in the upper half) work to very close tolerances (a few millionths of an inch) and rely on the fuel to keep the moving parts from seizing (lube oil from the lower pump cannot penetrate the pumping elements). During the pumping process (10,000 - 15,000 psi is common), heat is generated inside the pump and heat is also picked up from the engine itself. Up to 90% of the fuel passing through the fuel pump is circulated directly back to the tank, carrying away this heat.
If the fuel level gets low, the temperature in the tank starts to rise, reducing its ability to carry away heat. The engine power begins to drop because the volume of fuel being injected starts to drop away (2% power loss for every 6 deg. C rise). The possibility of the high pressure parts seizing together increases with the rising fuel temperature and a complete run-out of fuel doesn’t bear thinking about.
Common-rail systems work a little bit differently to the above, but also have high-pressure pumping elements that need to be cooled and lubricated by fuel.
I’m not surprised that you are not aware of the lubricating/cooling aspects even though you’ve owned other vans. During the mid 80’s, I was in Fiji training customer mechanics and I was asked to assist another customer who had run their diesel engine out of fuel and had spent 3 days (!) trying to re-start it. I had the engine running in 30 minutes, simply by bleeding the fuel filters of entrained air, bleeding the cylinder heads and bleeding the fuel lines leading to the injectors. Here was a customer who had a number of that type of engine, but their mechanics (?) did not know how to bleed a dry engine.
Like my windsurfing advice, I try to pass on my experiences and things that I have found to work. Because I drive a diesel-powered van, I have been approached many times by people wanting to find out the pros and cons of owning a van and I try to give honest advice about all aspects. I’d welcome any comments from owners of MB/VW/Peugeot/Renault diesel-powered vans regarding what their owner manuals say about running the fuel low/out in the fuel tank.
Finally, this is not a rant at Stehsegler, simply an explanation of why keeping the tank at least ¼ full makes sense. Remember, failed fuel pumps are expensive to repair and personally, I’d rather use the money to buy new windsurfing gear.
Regards,
I've got a Renault Trafic. Gets around 8.5l/100km in the city and around 7 on the open road (about 8 with 2 SUPs on the roof). Has 6 gears so sits really nicely at 120ish on the open road. Has a 90liter tank so can get over 1000km off a tank. It's nice being able to wait till the bigger towns with cheaper fuel to fill.
Really comfy van for the long trips with lots of room up front too (one of the things that swung me... took some convincing to go French). Not the quickest off the mark though. Had it one year (2 gnaraloo trips) now with no dramas. Servicing pretty cheap too.
There aren't many around 2nd hand though.
I apologise if i have repeated what someone else has said, i haven't read all of the responses, but i would place reliability and servicability above fuel economy, to a degree. A few litres / 100k's will soon be outweighed buy higher sevice costs, more frequent break downs etc. which can be higher, gut wrenching up front payments compared to the more spread out payment of fueling a car. Not to mention the towing costs and sheer inconvenience of owning a crappy unreliable van. Of course, this completey depends upon where you are going in your van, how far and how often.
I know it's not what you asked, but just saying's all.
Congrats on the purchase by the way.
Select to expand quoteMark _australia said...
Bertie, he is probably referring to when it hit "E" on the gauge...
E for enough, F for finished
