Refurbing these Fanataic/Goya waveboards. One had a broken nose so it's getting the full round-over rhinoplasty.
A nose job typically leave you with a very thick nose compared to the original. I am thinking about separating the bottom skin from the foam about 150mm back, taking a thin wedge out of the foam and glueing the skin back to try to steepen the up-curve and create a slimmer profile.
Has anyone tried this before? Bad idea?
As those older style boards have heaps of rocker through the nose, i'd be incline to reverse the wedge and take the thickness of foam away from the deck side bringing the deck down to meet the rocker, not the rocker up to meet the deck.
but that's just my opinion
Yeah, I've done this to a few boards. From memory you need to take more than you would otherwise think as the combination of foam and epoxy doesn't want to compress down easily.
I think I clamped it down when I initially glued/epoxied it together. I then used divinycell to stick to the new nose section to then shape something that looked reasonable.
You will need to cut out most of the vertical/side bits as the top or the bottom won't move at all.
In retrospect, I wonder if it would have been easier to just glue the divinycell on, and craft a new nose but with two levels so it sort of looked like a design feature. It would be a whole lot less work.
I broke the nose clean off mine ..a wave hit me and it smashed up against the pier ..I had to rebuilt about 150 ml.
but yeah a resharp on a old board can't hurt ..classic shape . 
Reminds me of my 2001 mistral flow .
I used international EPIFILL. Great stuff .easy to shape and its a two pack so very strong .
i have done one similar to this ..I took the top off also ..not the bottom .as struthepirate .has instructed.
Select to expand quoteStuthepirate said..
As those older style boards have heaps of rocker through the nose, i'd be incline to reverse the wedge and take the thickness of foam away from the deck side bringing the deck down to meet the rocker, not the rocker up to meet the deck.
but that's just my opinion
Have to disagree with this stu, but I guess it depends how you ride waves, if you like to get really vertical. straight up and straight back down, then heaps pf nose rocker is necessary. I know because the first board I made with just a cut off nose rocker line, would often, "pearl" on me. I had to concentrates on being less radical on my descents to stay on top of the water. The next boards I made had a little extra nose kick, and are much more fun to ride.
Select to expand quotedecrepit said...Stuthepirate said..
As those older style boards have heaps of rocker through the nose, i'd be incline to reverse the wedge and take the thickness of foam away from the deck side bringing the deck down to meet the rocker, not the rocker up to meet the deck.
but that's just my opinion
Have to disagree with this stu, but I guess it depends how you ride waves, if you like to get really vertical. straight up and straight back down, then heaps pf nose rocker is necessary. I know because the first board I made with just a cut off nose rocker line, would often, "pearl" on me. I had to concentrates on being less radical on my descents to stay on top of the water. The next boards I made had a little extra nose kick, and are much more fun to ride.
So are the stubby wave boards just a fad?
Struth for blasting and non wave sailing I think the reverse wedge is on the money and has my vote. It will help keep the board steady when conditions go ballistic !
Select to expand quoteMrCranky said..
>>>>>>
So are the stubby wave boards just a fad?
I've no idea, haven't taken a lot of notice of modern wave boards, (I'm more into speed sailing these days), and maybe modern wave riding doesn't involve completely vertical drops?
But I think it's true that the shorter the board the less nose rocker you need
Thanks for all the info guys.
For what it's worth the reverse wedge won't work as it won't provide a fair curve. It will develop a hump. A small amount of extra curve up from the bottom will stay fair if I make the cut right.
^^ I agree that u r on the right track IMHO
Adding a divinycell block and reshaping is better in most cases but anyone tried to find 100x100x200 blocks of 60kg foam lately? Not exactly easy. Then it has to be shaped perfect, largely by eye.
For a nose job on a $200 board one has to question all that...
I like the idea of a wedge cut and bend, it is a novel solution to a reshape.
I especially like it as if you cut length off you have to add nose rocker. Further, a good way to do that is bend the bottom laminate up, it will find it's own curve and be a nice natural arc, which means not having to shape so much. Faster result.
Nice IKW 
Select to expand quoteStuthepirate said..
As those older style boards have heaps of rocker through the nose, i'd be incline to reverse the wedge and take the thickness of foam away from the deck side bringing the deck down to meet the rocker, not the rocker up to meet the deck.
but that's just my opinion
I agree, the advantages out weigh the disadvantages, I did that to an older JP, the nose kept getting smashed, so I cut it off (about 16 cm's), and tapered down the deck, keeping the bottom smooth.
The main reason for those fairy slipper noses were because the boards were so long that it was needed for sailing our thru the waves and steep drop-ins, but those noses became vulnerable. Not only for boom or mast smashes, but for also being driven into the sand, that curve would be a week spot making it easy to crease the deck just behind the nose. My sails prefer the flatter nose also, they told me so.
My JP became more modern looking, works just fine, still does, I ride it a lot, and it doesn't get damaged anymore. Getting out thru the breakers and pulling off steep drop-ins didn't become any more difficult, maybe even easier due to less board out in front.
I think is a good idea Shifu.
Your nose is likely to gain more strength, as you will be adding an intermediate layer or epoxy composite replacing the current foam.... I'd go for it.
From an aesthetical point of view, it might be hard to achieve a nice transition of the current outer laminate when being bent to accommodate the wedge, but I guess it is not that important.
Select to expand quotefitz66 said..
Give up on the board and go and listen to some Prince. ....... ha ha
Everyone's a comedian.
Oh look I can give you a green thumb. At least the people in China know they are being ****ed over.
Now there's a very good question, you need a very fine tooth if you use a saw, anything remotely coarse will tear the foam too much. A hot wire could do a smoother cut, but getting it to stay straight isn't easy. You could go for a rough cut and sandpaper it smooth, but that's not easy either, tapering down to nothing at the widest point, you'd have to make a tool to do that. So that's a thought, taper something suitable and stick some 80grit paper to it. It would take a while but would probably give you a reasonable job
Select to expand quoteShifu said...
All glued up with Botecote epoxy, microfibres and micro balloons.
Not enough clamps (and needs more downhaul)
The clamps are off and I think this has been a success. The new profile is much better. Looks just like a bought one!
good one shifu, you judged the size of the wedge perfectly. I originally thought hacksaw blade for the cut, but then thought it wouldn't be long enough, obviously the noses aren't as wide as they look.
^^ditto^^
and Exocet Cheetah n Chinook combination just Awesome 
slightly let down by an untidy workbench tho
Select to expand quotedecrepit said..
good one shifu, you judged the size of the wedge perfectly. I originally thought hacksaw blade for the cut, but then thought it wouldn't be long enough, obviously the noses aren't as wide as they look.
Agreed very inventive solution. Much better than a thick blunt cut, and way easier than a total reshape that has to start 20cm further back to get a nice curve
