Ford Transit, SWB 2.3 Turbo Diesel, 6 speed Maunual,
Runs 10.2l/per 100km around the city and 9.8 open road. Loads of power!! Can buy a 2006 model with 120k on the clock for $8-10,000
Just did a trip in nth WA. Self sufficient, living on the beach.
Packed:
7 Boards
9 Sails
6 Booms
7 Masts
All other accessories
60 litre engel
30 litres of water
Webber Q + Gas bottle + table
Food + heaps of beer (essential)
And still slept inside once camp set up. None of the gear had to be removed to get other stuff out.
VW T5 LWB 4motion.
Fits an amazing amount of kit!
I dont have good set of pics right now, but I got Tom Radis to help out with the setup, and now have a great modular solution.
I can fit a 9'5 SUP inside with room to spare (and no poking between the front seats!!!)
I'm going to redo the back of my iLoad slightly and want to attach the racking/bed to the walls of the van. I found the self standing bed started to creak a lot when driving.
So the question is - what is stronger between using self taping screws into the ribs (was thinking of securing 5mm ply to the ribs then securing on to that) or rivets? Anyone have any ideas with this?
Thanks!
Ben,
I'll post pictures of pop rivets plus bolts affixed to my Transit within 2 days. In my old van, self-tappers were always coming loose even with anti-shake washers and Loctite on them. Solved the problem with pop rivets. Nothing dropped inside the wall, because the broken end of the pop rivet was on the outside.
Also, I gave up on the standard pop rivet gun. I now use a pearler made by Kinchrome...I'll post a photo.
The other way is to use Nut Serts. Google these and see how you go.
Thomasz: Transits rule 
I went overboard on my Mazda van and plug welded a strip of angle iron to the drivers side walls, and then used that to screw the ply for the bed frame. Strongest way ever.
If you are averse to setting your van on fire, pop rivets might be a reasonable compromise.
I haven't seen anyone here use it, but you can get the drawer sliders (not sure what they are called) from Bunnings or any cupboard type place, so when you fit drawers underneath, they are easy to slide in and out. I've tried before to make a channel from wood, but the water/wet equipment makes the wood warp just enough to make the drawers stick.
So when you have a drawer sliding out, fit a top to it (from plywood, hinges if you want) and two fold out legs, so when it's out, it's also a table...
Good morning, Ben,
The Transit has a cargo holder fixture running the length of the van, so I pop riveted the bracket to the fixture and then through the interior steel of the Transit. The L-shaped bracket is 25 x 3mm galvanized steel strap from Bunnings. The pop rivets I used were 3/16??? type, with a depth suitable for that position. I used 2 x rivets for strength. The bracket then attaches to the aluminium leg of the board support frame by a bolt and locknut. A steel strap is used on the locknut side to spread the load of the washer and locknut from the aluminium board support. I used this arrangement at the front and the rear of the board support.
At the top of the support I used strap steel pop rivetted direct to the Transit steel. The strap is bent so that it attached directly to the horizontal support, but also matched the angle of the Transit steel. Brackets are placed front and rear, like the lower brackets.
There are 5 shelves in the board support frame and, when fully loaded, there is a large swing weight (going over light, bumpy ground). There has been no loosening of the any of the attachments to date (just over 12 months in service).
On the rivet gun side, I was using a standard- handle rivet gun (www.bunnings.com.au/stanley-heavy-duty-contractor-rivet-gun_p5911947), but was finding it hard to use in confined spaces, particularly when using 3/16??? rivets. I changed to this, www.bunnings.com.au/kincrome-280mm-short-handle-rivet-gun_p5910185 and it solved the problem.
Hope this helps.
