As has been mentioned... a few percent reduction in drag, would be beneficial. Particularly for speedsailing where a few percent is everything. Obviously... "we need more analysis" specifically at windsurfing speeds, ie: 15 m/s - 30m/s (30-60 kn). But they did do analysis at windsurfing speeds -> 7m/s is about 14kn. **
It is pretty clear to me graph 12 shows - for planing speeds where our AoA is a few degrees at most - fillets are less effective. Once the AoA increases to wavesailing levels during a bottom-turn, then there is significant beneficial lift produced (graph 14).
** Granted that is about the minimum speed for planing -> but if you look at the graphs, the faster you go or the less AoA, results in less benefit.
That said, our own real-world testing appears to show a beneficial effect for some other types of sailing too:
a) When we sail in shallow water or weedy areas, we are using the end-plate-effect to increase the effective-length of the fin (as per other studies) and reduce tip-vortices. Since there are now less turbulence as a whole coming from the fin, the turbulence at the junction is a bigger percentage of that.
b) On heavily raked fins, we tend to sail with more AoA than vertical fins (eg: delta's are notorious for spinout due to *either* too much AoA or not enough AoA). The graphs show a beneficial effect of a fillet for larger AoA. **
Since we mention fin-length ... I would be surprised if a fillet added anything that you could feel for length-choice we make. I would expect a bigger impact [ of the fillet ] would apply to the total-projected-area (so surface-area + AoA) - that may alter fin choice.
Lets ignore "wave drag"... we are planing, so most of that isn't relevant as it applies to the transition phase from non-planing. Lets also ignore sail/sailor drag -> air is about x700 less dense than water, so if for no other reason the drag effect is about that multiple lower (there is also a differing opinion on how much effect a sailor-drag is significant). So let focus on the three main sources of water drag, 1) board contact and depth/impression 2) fin size/area 3) AoA.
I'm looking to get into some weed guys!! So I took your lead and had a go at some filleting....but not sure my handy work is up to scratch.
i thought I'd take the easy option and use aqua knead it, as suggested by a previous poster.
it went on ok, see result below
But when I started to sand it, I noticed an edge was starting to crack, it looked a bit soft. I think my mistake was adding some knead it to a section I'd already done a few minutes before. It must have been going off so the second bit didn't bond properly.
So I'm not sure how robust this is going to be especially when trying to pry a fin out of a fin box.
would it help is I add a layer of resin / Q cell mixture on top. Or should I just break that part off and fix with the resin/q cell. All suggestions welcome.
i also have another fin for my 115L / 73cm which I use with an 8m. This fin looks a monster at 43cm (no good for shallow water) so I was thinking about cutting it down and then maybe fattening up the leading edge with some carbon. Just to give it more stiffness and lift. I've overlaid the delta below just to give you perspective on size / area.
What do you experts think? Is it worth doing
Now you've built the body of the fillet up with the knead it, simply wet and lay up some glass over the top to add strength
+1 what Stu said.
I wouldn't wreck that makani fin, too valuable for an experiment. Get a 28 fangy fin for $100 and convert it like I have on the show us your fin thread. The 26 woody I made from a 28 works a treat with the 7.9 and 115 slalom board. Far better than any delta in a bit of chop and goes upwind great.
^+1 on what Stu said. The fillet sticks out from the fin about 6% of the chord length. So if the base of your Delta is, say, 25omm long, the fillet should be about 15mm wide. The importance of this diminishes as you get closer to the point of maximum foil thickness, so if I am seeing the photo correctly, you could simply sand back your fillet until you have a good surface exposed and fair it into a smooth but lesser radius. (You will need to do that on both sides of the fin to keep symmetry) I have no experience with the strength side of things, so I will leave that to the resin gurus.
The second fin - If you dont use the fin much, why not give it crack and see what you can make? I would want to check the rake first - if its not approx 50 degrees or more you might find it too draggy when using it in thick weed.
Edit - I just read what Swindy said - defo do what he says
Thanks, I'll go and find some glass to add to my fillet.
Where do I get a fangy?
28 cm might be fine for me, I'm not sure my skill level is up to grafting the wood into the fin without consequences.
PM on Seabreeze and I will fill you in on all the stuff you need to know, so you can decide if you want to have a crack at it.
In the meantime - look at Swindy's photos/post here;
www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/Windsurfing/Gps/FangyFin-DIY-help--hints-and-show-us-ya-fin-page?page=5
I have it on good authority that a fangy fin is better than a filleted delta, and much better than an unfilleted delta.
why are you using fins with this overlapping ?here in Germany everyone who had such a fin was very disappointed (including me) and we all put them away.
The reason was that it is very hard to prepare the fin that it fits perfectly into your board. Mostly there is 0.1mm space between board and the top of the fin, where weed gets in and kills the performance.
Don't you have similar problems ?
Don't do what I did on the weekend when I was fitting my delta fin.
The last and only time I used it I remembered that It was a really tight fit in the box, almost impossible not get it in and out. So I thought I'd adjust it for a perfect fit before adding the fillet.
First I removed the rubber gasket it came with as it would ineterfere with the fillet. It took about an hour of sanding and testing to allow it to go flush into the fin box. With the base sitting flush the front end of the fin was sitting about 2mm proud of the the deck. The only way to make it sit flush was to tilt it forward but then the back of the the fin base was sticking out by the same amount. I'd already taken quite a bit of material off the base to make it fit and I didn't think it would be a good thing taking off as much again to allow the fin to tilt forward.
roll back an hour, my big mistake I grabbed the board on the top of my pile to use for the test fitting. It's a starboard futura (a free race board), and not the board I would typically use with the fin. I then grabbed the other board, a 100L Exocet slalom board. Drop the fin it, and voila the front is perfectly flush with the deck. But now the base is a rattly loose fit in the box. So then I spend another hour building up the base with filler to make it fit snug.
I suspect the tail rocker / flat is quite different between a free race board and slalom board. Moreover there is quite a variation in the tolerance between the boxes.
In in retrospect I probably didn't need to build the base up again as the fillet should allow you to bolt the fin down and the fillet area should keep the fin snug.
if I decide I need to use the fin with the smaller free race board I will need to make a gasket of some sort for the front