Hi,
I need a winter project and am planning to build a foil board in the 125l range.
normally for sups I go innegra carbon sandwich with core cork over eps.
it turns out really tough but I'm wondering if carbon is overkill for a board that is only 6.5 ft long?
I was thinking maybe going basalt and innegra instead, with corecork sandwich on deck only.
do you reckon basalt is worth a go?
only probs with basalt or any other interesting looking cloth (eg flax) is I am scratching to find anything in 1000mm roll width. I usually prioritise a little bit of strength over weight because I am a bit hard on gear.
does anyone have any recommendations for materials and aus suppliers?
cheers Chris
I definitely think basalt is worth a try for the majority of the build, but I don't think I would move away from heavy carbon layup around the boxes and adjacent rails, there really isn't anything that can do the job like carbon. Even S glass would be good for the rest of the shape imo.
you can try these guys for the basaltic. The site has changed but I think the had 1000mm ish basalt twill in 6oz.
beyondmaterialsgroup.com.au/basalt-products-reinforcement-bar-mesh-fabric/basalt-fabric/
this is 300gsm so a bit over the top but they might have hookups. I have bought their stuff in the past and they are good.
playwithcarbon.com/basalt-twill-1m-wide/
these guys are in Europe and sell carbon so cheap (good quality) that it's almost not worth using basalt.
www.fibermaxcomposites.com/shop/carbon-fabrics-c-36.html
Hi clamsmasha,
fantastic! thanks for the tips I will get checking out now. I'm not opposed to going full carbon just thought I would try something different for a bit of fun. This whole wing foiling thing has really taken me by surprise and got me amped!
If you want some good ideas take a look at surfmachines.com
In the About ,Technical and the Foil boards description there is a lot of info.
Never seen one in person but i really like how they are shaped and built.
I started a board that has a central box section. The idea is all the strength is there. Then I could cut it down to a narrower board once I had learnt.
The idea is to put a layer of 200 gram carbon over the central part making a big carbon U down the middle of the board.
No idea if this is a good idea and havnt made much progress as I have been busy with other stuff.
Hi Clammasha,
I got a roll of cork from lavender composites in qld. it is the nl20 made by amorim
www.lavender-ce.com/
My local fiberglass shop in Hobart stocks it now as well, it goes between the innegra and the carbon with the carbon on the outside. It makes a really tough skin. The corecork is really flexible and you can sand back overlaps in it when doing the rails if you go the full sandwich.
This board is like 7 years old and keeps on going despite being owned by me. Busted my original carbon mast in a shore dump i should have pulled out of, but no damage to board. New mast and tuttle adapter and good to go, please excuse bolts for foil in pics they were just for test fitting purposes
Livit, i like the look of that Hexcell, one of the gong vids shows Patrice laying up a bord with it and it looks cool, i haven't looked into the advantages of that.
Tarquin 1, I saw you posting that on standup zone I like your thinking of cutting down your board as you progress. Will keep checking out your progress.
Cheers Chris
Wow great info! Here is a basalt innegra 5,6 x 27 x 5 I have just finised. I did a double carbon stringer and glassed over boxes. Supplies from Sanded at Long Jetty and the basalt innegra was just wide enough- 30 inch wide I think.
Awesome thread. I have been toying with the idea of getting back into making boards to try out a few foil board ideas over winter.
Very keen to see what materials people are using now, since so much has changed in the 20 years or so since I last worked on a board.
Wow board looks nice!
if any one has wing foil boards they have built post em up so we can see you're work.
I'm building a couple of boards at the moment, 13kg/m3 EPS core, glass and carbon on the bottom, glass, 3mm divinycell, then carbon and glass on the deck, all glass is 4oz, carbon is 280 gsm twill. First layer of glass is laid up without vacuum to seal the foam and give a hard surface to work against, all other layers vacuum bagged.
I got my carbon from enhancedcomposites.com.au, other stuff from the usual suspects, shapers.com.au, sanded.com.au, playwithcarbon.com and kirkside.com.au
Bigger board is 5'11" x 30". 130L, smaller board is 5'9" x 28" 110L
Great thread indeed. Thanks for the heads up with the cork boys, I'll PM you when I get some time next few days Livit...cheers.
couple of prone builds from a while back. 4'6" and 3'11". The first is all carbon hotcoated with Qcell slurry, which saves a bit of weight and is pretty good for the dreaded pinholes. Second is carbon/depron sandwich with eglass forward on the bottom.
I cap the boxes with biax carbon these days...just to be sure.
What do you recon is a good second board size?
im 95kg and have a 130l 7ft7 board atm was thinking of going down to something about 6ft but chunky maybe 125 litres.
I Dont seem to need much speed for take off so I am thinking planing area is not a priority.
pacey how did you jam so much volume in a 5 11? Was it thickness that got it there? Board looks tops!
I have been chucking some roughs together and it's coming in at around 6'6" x 29" x 130mm thick according to software about 130L.
DO you reckon hotwire bevels to a template or just mow em down with a planer? Its a bit hard getting a nice looking front rocker on such a chunky thickness I will have to work on that.
Its interesting the concaves and stuff some of these production boards have but i think i will avoid the complexity of doing that by hand. I wish i still had my old starboard hypersonic to have a good look at again, i loved how that board handled chop.
Is there a standard distance from tail to centre of foil track atm? I am just going of my last board distances which worked ok.
Going to get a styrofoam blank this weekend...cant wait.
Looks good, I would extend the rocker further down the board a bit. I hotwire to template. I also hotwire chine and the bulk of the rails using tape as a guide. I avoid the planer on eps blanks. I keep it simple- no bagging, concaves etc
I do want to start doing qcel filler coat
Use a hotwire for the bevels, just mask out the bottom and side curves with masking tape, and make sure your hotwire is hot enough to cut the foam but not hot enough to burn the tape. Use a couple of layers of tape if you are really cautious.
My small hotwire was pretty basic, a wooden bracket and a spring from Bunnings with grooves cut in each end with a hacksaw. Wire doesn't need to be tight, you want a bit of slack in it as you don't want to put too much pressure on the edges of the tape
And you should be able to get 130 L in a 6' board. Have a look at a Fanatic 6' board, 30" wide and 130L, and that is with a rear end that thins out from the thickness in the middle.
I wasn't quite believing my numbers when I had it shorter with good vol, I'll go shorter!that hotwiring to the tape lines is gold, I usually make mdf templates which is a pain.
Yes, I was surprised when I heard that it was possible to just use tape. Definitely a good idea to mask up some test cuts with scrap foam, it takes a bit of practise to get the technique and get your hand motion smooth and steady, but once you get past the shaky hand stage it works great.
I use an old halogen downlight transformer, the old style heavy transformer type not the modern switch mode type, hook a normal lighting dimmer up to the 240v side and you can easily control the current going to the wire
I've got a transformer with two taps, 12v and 30v, with a potentiometer to adjust the current. 12v is good for short hotwires, 30v is good for the full width of the board
I hotwire too. I have a cheap $12 5A variable voltage power supply from eBay. I use the tape as well, the 1/4 striping tape works really well and I double it.