Picked up the new HA1440 from Briskites here in Brisbane luckily they had stock. I tossed up between the HA1240 and the 1440 and decided on the bigger wing as it was a light wind option for me. My regular ride is the Mach 1 900.
I'm 80kgs riding a 74ltr x 5'3x22 board, I really don't like big boards as a light wind option and wanted to stay with my regular ride.
I rode the old S27 1400 once, and only once, definitely not the wing for me, slow and I found difficult to ride and gybe. How different is the new 1440, such a nice front wing to ride.
I paired the HA1440 with the 85cm 100% carbon mast and the 220 stab. Yes the table recommends the 280 but I found the 1440 works great with the 220. I was using a 5mtr wing, my largest wing.
The wind was 10-12 knots but built to 12-14 knots during the session. No drama's getting going at 10knots, this wing is very low drag but also a low stall speed so gets flying with a few pumps. Foot pumps are extremely effective and you can almost jump the wing into flight.
Back and forth foiling you know you have a big span wing underneath you, not uncomfortable but it is happiest at 12-14 knots, pushing up over 16knots is possible if you're keen. Foot pressure remains the same throughout the range.
Where this wing shines is its glide, I pulled off more heel side or toeside tacks in a session than ever before. Even when you muff one it just keeps gliding, not stalling like my Mach 1 900. It's going to be so good for learning 360's and other transitions.
The huge glide also offers great swell riding, just pick up one, glide and pump downwind easily crossing fuller sections with ease. Big wings usually become a handful in higher wind but I think this one might be perfect for mini downwinds, then crank upwind for another go.
I'm now a convert to using smaller boards and with larger foil wings in the light stuff. I know the trend is big downwind boards for the light stuff but how much lighter than 10 knots do you want to go?
Great! Thank you for that report. I also just purchased the 1440 and the 1040 but did not have a chance to try it out thoroughly. I am very much looking forward to this after your review.
I also do have a mach 1 900, do you think this is obsolete now, as I also have the 1040?
Select to expand quotepacoz said..
Great! Thank you for that report. I also just purchased the 1440 and the 1040 but did not have a chance to try it out thoroughly. I am very much looking forward to this after your review.
I also do have a mach 1 900, do you think this is obsolete now, as I also have the 1040?
I haven't used the 2024 HA1040 so really can't comment but for me Mach 1 900 is definitively not obsolete. When the wind is up we get really rough water, big swells and the 900 is perfect as it's solid not foam filled and super stiff and controllable. I also have a small strapped board and the Mach 1's are the only wing I would happily jump with no fear of breakage.
For those who are interested in the new HA foil, been using the new 840 foil, in comparison with the
914, which I also use points to note is : More glide
Much lower stall speed
Top speed similar
i was on the foil in 13-15 knots. I think it's made all my larger foil redundant ie. 1240 / 1400
I've had a few more sessions in various conditions on my 1040HA and have moved the mast back another 10mm.
This has given me more control of the lift and keeps the board a bit lower on the mast, rather than having 20mm of water above the fuse.( feeling like that at least )
Select to expand quotewinddoc said..
For those who are interested in the new HA foil, been using the new 840 foil, in comparison with the
914, which I also use points to note is : More glide
Much lower stall speed
Top speed similar.
i was on the foil in 13-15 knots. I think it's made all my larger foil redundant ie. 1240 / 1400
That is good to know the 840 has so much bottom end lift before stalling, and just as quick as the 914.
Any news on the 740? Sounds like they need to make a 640.
Also, have you sand faired your 914? From the factory they often have defects in the thickness of the clear coat paint, so if you clean it up, the stall and lift-off speed drops a lot. Assuming you know the correct grade paper and technique.
Select to expand quoteEmmett said..winddoc said..
For those who are interested in the new HA foil, been using the new 840 foil, in comparison with the
914, which I also use points to note is : More glide
Much lower stall speed
Top speed similar.
i was on the foil in 13-15 knots. I think it's made all my larger foil redundant ie. 1240 / 1400
That is good to know the 840 has so much bottom end lift before stalling, and just as quick as the 914.
Any news on the 740? Sounds like they need to make a 640.
Also, have you sand faired your 914? From the factory they often have defects in the thickness of the clear coat paint, so if you clean it up, the stall and lift-off speed drops a lot. Assuming you know the correct grade paper and technique.
Here's one I prepared earlier 
used it a couple of times, very quick using a cut down 220 stab- like sailing on skates..
also tried it on the standard 220 stab which was more stable, slower but could point like a demon.
Select to expand quoteEmmett said..winddoc said..
For those who are interested in the new HA foil, been using the new 840 foil, in comparison with the
914, which I also use points to note is : More glide
Much lower stall speed
Top speed similar.
i was on the foil in 13-15 knots. I think it's made all my larger foil redundant ie. 1240 / 1400
That is good to know the 840 has so much bottom end lift before stalling, and just as quick as the 914.
Any news on the 740? Sounds like they need to make a 640.
Also, have you sand faired your 914? From the factory they often have defects in the thickness of the clear coat paint, so if you clean it up, the stall and lift-off speed drops a lot. Assuming you know the correct grade paper and technique.
Emmett could you describe the correct grade paper and technique? I'm keen to give it a try 
Or is your comment specifically in reference to the 914 and not the new HA's?
I'm currently using the new 1240HA and finding it is not the biggest fan of heavy chop (possibly the extra width?), more so than the old 1240HA.
For those on Naish foils, what is your go to foil for heavy chop?
Select to expand quoteMilesH said..
I'm currently using the new 1240HA and finding it is not the biggest fan of heavy chop (possibly the extra width?), more so than the old 1240HA.
For those on Naish foils, what is your go to foil for heavy chop?
I'm really enjoying the HA1440 in large chop, but I really downsize my wing so when others are on 4's I'll be on a 3mtr wing. I run triangles, heading upwind then riding the bumps downwind, rinse and repeat. I can get 500mtr or more glides with no use of the wing, just pumping between swells.
I've had a few sessions in the last week with stronger winds and chop on the 1040. For me, overall stability and glide was improved by moving my mast back 15mm - it's now closer to the centre of the tracks. Makes the ride more controlled and less breaching.
Thanks both.
I went out again yesterday with the 1240 in mixed chop and with the chopped 220 stab. Possibly due to the extra width, but it felt like the wing flew a lot cleaner in chop if I stayed flatter, rather than cranking it over. It meant it took slightly longer to get upwind, but seemed to work well.
Is that normal with wider span wings (103cm in this case)?
Select to expand quoteMilesH said..
Emmett could you describe the correct grade paper and technique? I'm keen to give it a try Or is your comment specifically in reference to the 914 and not the new HA's?
For any foil, not only the 914. The goal is to allow a thin boundary layer of water to form which travels with the foil, so the outer laminar water can move as close as possible to the solid foil and without major drag disturbances. In other words, the solid foil + the water boundary layer forms your effective or virtual foil shape, and you want that shape to be as even and low volume as possible.
To achieve a very smooth feeling with no vibration I do the usual foil fairing technique. A cork sanding block used for most of the foil (excl foil's leading edge) while always holding the long axis of the block parallel to the long axis of the foil (perp to the foil leading edge and typically also the water flow), then move the block in a +- 45 deg motion without rotating the block in the above view. Begin with 400 grit, and end with 800 or 1000. On the leading edge use a softer more compressible sanding block and do the sanding technique as above on the front "shoulder" of the foil, plus roll the block+paper around the leading edge ensuring you never sand a flat strip. Both sides.
Common errors, to avoid weird turbulence, noise, stalls and drag barriers hurting speed:
Be cautious to not sand the LE too much and expose fibers or porous material.
On the bottom side, be very careful to not roll the cork block around the trailing edge and try to press an edge of your sanding block into the rear concave lift zone, with the same +-45 technique. Do not flat the concave zone. You're aiming to fair the surface.
I've found that the shape of the front 10% of the foil is critical to get right. I've done modifications to the section shapes of about 6 foils, and a few times I've messed up the entry shape and (without having templates) it's taken me a while to restore performance.
Select to expand quotesnides8 said..
Here's one I prepared earlier
used it a couple of times, very quick using a cut down 220 stab- like sailing on skates..
also tried it on the standard 220 stab which was more stable, slower but could point like a demon.
Thanks for the HA640 pics. Before my earlier post, I had not checked there is no HA740.
That's interesting you found your HA640 went upwind better with the HA220 stab with tip winglets retained. I guess that means the HA640 is a little loose in yaw and the "fixed rudders" stab helped you to lock it in more upwind and find extra efficiency.
It's interesting there are so many rear stab foils around these days which are flat for winging, while I've never ever seen them used for any kite foils that are meant for going fast. I've always presumed that being loose in yaw only makes sense for slow foils and/or wide span foils with very slow roll response. Some fuselage shapes offer a lot more yaw stability than others. Anything tall and narrow is yaw stable. Like the P51 Mustang airplane.
Have any of you experimented with a mast to board shim when using Naish foils?
I ride Naish foils and board and feel they ride very slightly nose down. No issues on a flat day but on a choppy day or at speed it feels like it may benefit from a 1 deg mast to board shim to raise the nose slightly (negative shim I think that is?).
Has anybody felt similar and tried mast to board shims?
Select to expand quoteMilesH said..
Have any of you experimented with a mast to board shim when using Naish foils?
I ride Naish foils and board and feel they ride very slightly nose down. No issues on a flat day but on a choppy day or at speed it feels like it may benefit from a 1 deg mast to board shim to raise the nose slightly (negative shim I think that is?).
Has anybody felt similar and tried mast to board shims?
I won't hurt to try..
What board (and size) are you using and where in the boxes do you mount the mast?
Also what foils?
Select to expand quoteDavidJohn said..MilesH said..
Have any of you experimented with a mast to board shim when using Naish foils?
I ride Naish foils and board and feel they ride very slightly nose down. No issues on a flat day but on a choppy day or at speed it feels like it may benefit from a 1 deg mast to board shim to raise the nose slightly (negative shim I think that is?).
Has anybody felt similar and tried mast to board shims?
I won't hurt to try..
What board (and size) are you using and where in the boxes do you mount the mast?
Also what foils?
Hi David,
85l Carbon Ultra, new 1240HA or Mach 1 1100, both mounted at the front of the box.
I'm using a 1 degree mast shim and feel it works great. I'm 98kg riding a 82l ppc soar but also use on a 112l dw board and gain significant lift from it. Id like to try some of the new upcoming rear wings on it now to see if it makes it faster.
Wait.. you gain lift? Isnt the front wing pointing more downwards when schimming the mast?
Select to expand quotepacoz said..
Wait.. you gain lift? Isnt the front wing pointing more downwards when schimming the mast?
Depends which way you shim it.
Select to expand quotewhitewind said..
I'm using a 1 degree mast shim and feel it works great. I'm 98kg riding a 82l ppc soar but also use on a 112l dw board and gain significant lift from it. Id like to try some of the new upcoming rear wings on it now to see if it makes it faster.
Are you shimming the front or rear of the mast? What DW board are you using?
I'm looking at shimming the front of the mast so that the board doesn't ride quite so nose down. But my doubts are that surely if you are using a Naish foil and board there shouldnt be a need? Or is it personal preference and others have done it?
Select to expand quoteMilesH said..whitewind said..
I'm using a 1 degree mast shim and feel it works great. I'm 98kg riding a 82l ppc soar but also use on a 112l dw board and gain significant lift from it. Id like to try some of the new upcoming rear wings on it now to see if it makes it faster.
Are you shimming the front or rear of the mast? What DW board are you using?
I'm looking at shimming the front of the mast so that the board doesn't ride quite so nose down. But my doubts are that surely if you are using a Naish foil and board there shouldnt be a need? Or is it personal preference and others have done it?
Plate shimming is a deep rabbit hole. Be sure to know what you are trying to achieve before embarking. Important things to understand before starting.
Plate shimming will not technically affect the lift of the foil. I only changes the relationship between the board and the fuselage/Foil combination (plane). This will change the ride angle as the foil will generally find its ideal flight angle dependant on some factors (mainly rider weight and velocity for a given foil). This angle will change as velocity changes. At low velocity (under foiled) a foil will want to ride with a higher effective AoA on the front wing or nose up, as the velocity increases and the foil reaches its "glide ratio" or optimum speed for the given velocity and mass it will ride level. Then as velocity for the given mass exceeds the glide ration (or over-foiled) the foil will require to ride with less AoA on the front wing or nose down.
Rear wing shimming affects the relationship between the rear wing and the front wing, effectively increasing potential down force of the rear to encourage an increased AoA of the front wing in a positive shim or the opposite in a negative shim. Best to always use the words positive or negative to describe whether the angle difference between the front and rear wing has increased/positive or decreased/negative (front wing generally points up to the surface and the rear wing generally points down to the ocean floor). This affect is independent of the plate shim, but as you can imagine the affect may influence the foil to take on some of these characteristics prematurely/retarded to the standard/non-shim setup. Important to understand, that while a positive rear shim may produce the feeling of more power/lift, it will also increase the drag respectfully, likewise as it will do when negatively shimmed the drag will reduce.
Most importantly is to try shimming in very small increments, and only one thing at a time. I shim rears in 0.25 degrees at a time. Plate in 0.5 degree shims.
Hope this helps,
JB
Select to expand quoteWindgenuity said..MilesH said..whitewind said..
I'm using a 1 degree mast shim and feel it works great. I'm 98kg riding a 82l ppc soar but also use on a 112l dw board and gain significant lift from it. Id like to try some of the new upcoming rear wings on it now to see if it makes it faster.
Are you shimming the front or rear of the mast? What DW board are you using?
I'm looking at shimming the front of the mast so that the board doesn't ride quite so nose down. But my doubts are that surely if you are using a Naish foil and board there shouldnt be a need? Or is it personal preference and others have done it?
Plate shimming is a deep rabbit hole. Be sure to know what you are trying to achieve before embarking. Important things to understand before starting.
Plate shimming will not technically affect the lift of the foil. I only changes the relationship between the board and the fuselage/Foil combination (plane). This will change the ride angle as the foil will generally find its ideal flight angle dependant on some factors (mainly rider weight and velocity for a given foil). This angle will change as velocity changes. At low velocity (under foiled) a foil will want to ride with a higher effective AoA on the front wing or nose up, as the velocity increases and the foil reaches its "glide ratio" or optimum speed for the given velocity and mass it will ride level. Then as velocity for the given mass exceeds the glide ration (or over-foiled) the foil will require to ride with less AoA on the front wing or nose down.
Rear wing shimming affects the relationship between the rear wing and the front wing, effectively increasing potential down force of the rear to encourage an increased AoA of the front wing in a positive shim or the opposite in a negative shim. Best to always use the words positive or negative to describe whether the angle difference between the front and rear wing has increased/positive or decreased/negative (front wing generally points up to the surface and the rear wing generally points down to the ocean floor). This affect is independent of the plate shim, but as you can imagine the affect may influence the foil to take on some of these characteristics prematurely/retarded to the standard/non-shim setup. Important to understand, that while a positive rear shim may produce the feeling of more power/lift, it will also increase the drag respectfully, likewise as it will do when negatively shimmed the drag will reduce.
Most importantly is to try shimming in very small increments, and only one thing at a time. I shim rears in 0.25 degrees at a time. Plate in 0.5 degree shims.
Hope this helps,
JB
Important side note for the above. The higher the mass (heavier the rider or complete weight of rider, board, foil etc...) the higher the velocity required to achieve "Glide Ratio" or optimum speed. Thus this "Glide Ratio" / optimum velocity will vary per foil size dependant on rider weight and gear used.
After riding the new 1040 for a month or so, I got to use the 840 today in around 15kn. I was tossing up getting the 840 to start with, but was worried about it being as temperamental as the old 914 - I couldn't have been more wrong!
With the decent breeze, the 840 took off just as easily as the 1040 but turns and glides better and is very well behaved.
Now I'll just have to get rid of my old HA2140, 1800 and 914 and replace them with the 840. Having the 1040, 840 and the old 1400 will cover all my ride conditions.
Select to expand quotekersh said..
After riding the new 1040 for a month or so, I got to use the 840 today in around 15kn. I was tossing up getting the 840 to start with, but was worried about it being as temperamental as the old 914 - I couldn't have been more wrong!
With the decent breeze, the 840 took off just as easily as the 1040 but turns and glides better and is very well behaved.
Now I'll just have to get rid of my old HA2140, 1800 and 914 and replace them with the 840. Having the 1040, 840 and the old 1400 will cover all my ride conditions.
Thanks for the feedback Kersh. I've been riding the 2140 and 1400ha . I sold the 1400 and got a 900 and 1200 ha from another brand with an AR of about 10. My initial response is a little buyers remorse. I have been finding the flight envelope of the higher aspect foils to be finicky. I probably just need more time but the takeoff method required sometimes doesn't work so well in big lake chop/swell. I had better luck with being able to force the Naish up and out. I was wondering if the new Naish HAs retain some of that ability to fly without a long flat takeoff run?
I started this thread back in October after my first use of the 1440, never did I think it would become my most used wing. Makes everything easy, especially if your learning flat water freestyle transitions like tacks and 360's and gets you going in stupid light wind without the need for an oversized downwind board.
The only thing I don't do with it is jumping, just too big for that and the Mach 1 900 is my step down when the wind gets stronger.
Select to expand quoteSeastudent said..kersh said..
After riding the new 1040 for a month or so, I got to use the 840 today in around 15kn. I was tossing up getting the 840 to start with, but was worried about it being as temperamental as the old 914 - I couldn't have been more wrong!
With the decent breeze, the 840 took off just as easily as the 1040 but turns and glides better and is very well behaved.
Now I'll just have to get rid of my old HA2140, 1800 and 914 and replace them with the 840. Having the 1040, 840 and the old 1400 will cover all my ride conditions.
Thanks for the feedback Kersh. I've been riding the 2140 and 1400ha . I sold the 1400 and got a 900 and 1200 ha from another brand with an AR of about 10. My initial response is a little buyers remorse. I have been finding the flight envelope of the higher aspect foils to be finicky. I probably just need more time but the takeoff method required sometimes doesn't work so well in big lake chop/swell. I had better luck with being able to force the Naish up and out. I was wondering if the new Naish HAs retain some of that ability to fly without a long flat takeoff run?
Based on using the new 1240HA yes they do retain the ability to pump them up without the long flat take off of some high AR wings; but not 'quite' as easy as the old Naish HA's. They do need some board speed first.
Select to expand quoteWindgenuity said..MilesH said..whitewind said..
I'm using a 1 degree mast shim and feel it works great. I'm 98kg riding a 82l ppc soar but also use on a 112l dw board and gain significant lift from it. Id like to try some of the new upcoming rear wings on it now to see if it makes it faster.
Are you shimming the front or rear of the mast? What DW board are you using?
I'm looking at shimming the front of the mast so that the board doesn't ride quite so nose down. But my doubts are that surely if you are using a Naish foil and board there shouldnt be a need? Or is it personal preference and others have done it?
Plate shimming is a deep rabbit hole. Be sure to know what you are trying to achieve before embarking. Important things to understand before starting.
Plate shimming will not technically affect the lift of the foil. I only changes the relationship between the board and the fuselage/Foil combination (plane). This will change the ride angle as the foil will generally find its ideal flight angle dependant on some factors (mainly rider weight and velocity for a given foil). This angle will change as velocity changes. At low velocity (under foiled) a foil will want to ride with a higher effective AoA on the front wing or nose up, as the velocity increases and the foil reaches its "glide ratio" or optimum speed for the given velocity and mass it will ride level. Then as velocity for the given mass exceeds the glide ration (or over-foiled) the foil will require to ride with less AoA on the front wing or nose down.
Rear wing shimming affects the relationship between the rear wing and the front wing, effectively increasing potential down force of the rear to encourage an increased AoA of the front wing in a positive shim or the opposite in a negative shim. Best to always use the words positive or negative to describe whether the angle difference between the front and rear wing has increased/positive or decreased/negative (front wing generally points up to the surface and the rear wing generally points down to the ocean floor). This affect is independent of the plate shim, but as you can imagine the affect may influence the foil to take on some of these characteristics prematurely/retarded to the standard/non-shim setup. Important to understand, that while a positive rear shim may produce the feeling of more power/lift, it will also increase the drag respectfully, likewise as it will do when negatively shimmed the drag will reduce.
Most importantly is to try shimming in very small increments, and only one thing at a time. I shim rears in 0.25 degrees at a time. Plate in 0.5 degree shims.
Hope this helps,
JB
Thanks JB useful as always 
I really don't want to start board shimming; as my Naish Foil and board combo are great in all aspects of riding.....it's just the slight nose down angle of the board (at any speed) catches the nose in heavy chop - foil is at the front on the box. But it seems that I am possibly the only one to experience this.
Select to expand quoteShlogger said..
Patiently waiting ...
Can't reveal too much, but yes. Just around the corner Naish will launch 2 pumps foils. A 1400 and 1800. Super powerful foil section. Big spans (115cm and 130cm). I've had a prototype 1400 for a while now and it's a beast. Stock should be leaving the factory very soon, hopefully here mid Jan.
