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Chopping nose off board

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Created by nebbian > 9 months ago, 13 May 2007
nebbian
WA, 6277 posts
13 May 2007 6:22PM
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After a massive catapult on Saturday, I'm looking at chopping off the nose of my board, it will be easier than trying to repair the damage (both rails smashed, big crease in bottom of board).

I've had a look at BoardLady's site, and from the looks of it I need to put some divinycell over the EPS core on the nose. Is this required? Or can I just glass over the foam and paint it? Where would I start looking for divinycell on the gold coast?

Any tips would be gratefully received.

hobie14t
QLD, 259 posts
13 May 2007 8:34PM
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hey neb,

I have some exp in this area. The best thing I can recommend is to pay to have it repaired unless you are experienced in fiberglass repairs.

I once cut the nose off an older formula and moulded a replacement nose and epoxied that back on but like I say, unless your good with
fiberglass, leave the nose off or pay someone to do it for you. (my attempted didnt come together the way I hoped it would)


RedJimi
QLD, 36 posts
13 May 2007 8:42PM
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Nebbian, I am sure you will at the very least scribe some kind of an arc with a pencil first ;)
My good mate Hobie didn't
Straight into it with a saw.....

Wineman
NSW, 1412 posts
13 May 2007 8:43PM
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quote:
Originally posted by nebbian

After a massive catapult on Saturday, I'm looking at chopping off the nose of my board, it will be easier than trying to repair the damage (both rails smashed, big crease in bottom of board).



Wot about a photo
catapaults get the wrong sort of adrenalin going

nebbian
WA, 6277 posts
13 May 2007 7:34PM
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Just for you wineman:

www.seabreeze.com.au/gallery/gallery.asp?imageid=4426
www.seabreeze.com.au/gallery/gallery.asp?imageid=4425

You can see that I'm never without a tube of Knead-it as well

decrepit
WA, 12093 posts
13 May 2007 7:42PM
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quote:
Originally posted by nebbian

I need to put some divinycell over the EPS core on the nose. Is this required? Or can I just glass over the foam and paint it? Where would I start looking for divinycell on the gold coast?

Any tips would be gratefully received.



Sounds like one of hardie's mods, he's just cut it of flat, but at an angle that helps the rocker a bit. Think he just used a small piece of d'cell, on top of the cut, 1 x 4oz cloth underneath and 2 x 4oz on top.
Round the edges a bit or the cloth wont wrap around.
This is fairly easy, doesn't look great thou. If you make a round nose, it's much harder to use d'cell. I would preform it with a heat gun, then vacuum it on.
The other alternative is coremat, I've just started playing with this on Mandarah mobs secret weapon, it's much easier to wrap around corners, although is heavier, on a small job, shouldn't matter too much.

Haggar
QLD, 1664 posts
13 May 2007 10:31PM
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Nebs, you don't do things by halves, how's the head ? Fibre glassing is not difficult so long as you get the right stuff and think about it, although I hav'nt worked on any modern boards

nebbian
WA, 6277 posts
13 May 2007 8:33PM
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Is divinycell a common material? Where would I get some? Can I cut some out of the smashed nose and use that?

arancini
WA, 373 posts
13 May 2007 9:12PM
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Hi Nebs, Ive done it a couple of times, its depressing, but reprable! Just get the right stuff from the local boat or glassing shop, I found "micro balls" mixed in with the resin makes a nice paste that you can use to sculpt the new shape, both these old boards were quite pointy to start with!
Good luck!

www.seabreeze.com.au/gallery/gallery.asp?imageid=4427

decrepit
WA, 12093 posts
13 May 2007 9:26PM
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quote:
Originally posted by nebbian

Is divinycell a common material? Where would I get some? Can I cut some out of the smashed nose and use that?



It's not that common, sorry I only know the places in WA, and they want to sell it in 1.2m X 2.4m sheets, @ about $70 a sheet.
A friendly boat builder may sell you scraps.

There's not just d'cell, I use herex, but there's also airex and corecell, all very similar stuff.

Pity you aren't closer, I've got enough off cuts to do that job.

Pugwash
WA, 7671 posts
13 May 2007 11:28PM
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don't chop it...

repair OR buy another one

mathew
QLD, 2043 posts
14 May 2007 10:17AM
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If you chop the nose off the board, you will change the nose-rocker and thus chang the characteristics of the board.

Cutting the front will cause the front of the board to sit lower in the water and will affect its planing ability as the middle of the board will be sitting lower in the water (ignoring other effects such as less volume, shorter length, etc).

One benefit is that generally the board will be less "flighty" in higher wind.

Not saying "dont do it", just something to consider.

nebbian
WA, 6277 posts
14 May 2007 8:36AM
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Thanks for all the help.

Mathew,

The only time the nose gets wet is when I'm standing still, either beachstarting or when I stuff a gybe. I've watched the nose when carving, and it never gets remotely close to the water... possibly bad technique, but chopping the nose wouldn't make any difference.
The same goes for getting planing - the nose is well out of the water when I've got a reasonable chance of getting going.

It's only the front 15 cm or so, and this would mean that the boom will miss the nose when I wipe out again!

Pugwash
WA, 7671 posts
14 May 2007 8:44AM
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CHOPPER

Mathew is right... It will make the board less flighty in high winds as there is less lift... SAME will apply to early planing, less lift, less

IF you do cut it off, don't cut it square, make it rounded as corners can catch on chop...

The other thing is the rocker was designed for a board of current length, not 15 cm less length

FormulaNova
WA, 14628 posts
14 May 2007 9:04AM
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quote:
Originally posted by nebbian

After a massive catapult on Saturday, I'm looking at chopping off the nose of my board, it will be easier than trying to repair the damage (both rails smashed, big crease in bottom of board).

I've had a look at BoardLady's site, and from the looks of it I need to put some divinycell over the EPS core on the nose. Is this required? Or can I just glass over the foam and paint it? Where would I start looking for divinycell on the gold coast?

Any tips would be gratefully received.



I did a bit of surgery on a few boards and one of the best things I found to do first was to remove the paint and see what the damage is really like.

I found a flap disc in a grinder was very useful for this although you only need a really fine one or a worn out one as they remove a lot of material really quickly.

Once you can see the damage you can then work out what you really want to do with it.

I've got a custom Flow and I think it is useful to remove the tip of the nose, but it looks like the damage in yours is a bit more and I think you would be removing too much material if you cut it at the crease.

If I were to truncate the nose I would start where you can first see the EPS closest to the tip of the nose, not further back where the crease is.


Dale.

TelecomGreg
QLD, 94 posts
14 May 2007 3:12PM
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Bad luck Nebs but at least you didn't stick you finger through your nose like Mark_Australia!!!


TelecomGreg

mkseven
QLD, 2314 posts
14 May 2007 6:47PM
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If you are just squaring off the first 10-15cm of the nose you should be fine just cutting off rounding up and leave it at that. To take anything more off you need to start reshaping the bottom and putting rocker in, most older boards you can really only take them down to about 245 (from 275-270) before the board shape dosen't permit enough rocker. Thats not to say shorter wont work, I have seen some ultra short cutoffs work but some people have hurt themselves pretty bad as a result also.

On the coast don't know who you could get divinycell from in Brisbane I think it's CG composites at Eagle Farm.

sinker
WA, 255 posts
14 May 2007 7:00PM
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HI Nebs,

Nice job, you really smashed the crap out of it didn't you?

If it was mine I wouldn't cut any of the nose off, it's not really a heavily stressed part of the board in normal sailing. Get your local repairer to bodge it up it will be cheaper than doing it yourself. but if you insist i would do the following:

just gently remove any loose glass/foam with a grinder/sander and sand back to the glass around the fold about 100mm either side and around any damage.

Use polyester filler (car bog) to bodge any holes etc (you could
mix up your own bog using resin, Q cells and micro ballons, but to be honest you'll end up with a substance just like car bog except fractionally lighter so don't bother)

When the filler has gone off, shape up the repair with a sander and when you're happy with the finish you can slap some glass on for a bit of surface toughness. (in your case I would suggest putting about half an inch of solid glass all around the nose...!!!)
But seriously just put a little chopped strand mat over the filler and overlap the fold by 50mm either side where you sanded the paint off.
Teat the CSM don't cut it as the edges are easier to feather out.

when it all gone off just sand the bumps off, you can use some more filler to touch up any tiny pinholes etc if you're feeling pedantic, then paint it. done.


decrepit
WA, 12093 posts
14 May 2007 7:26PM
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FIRSTLY don't use polyester!!!!! Bog or resin, if it gets on the styrene it'll melt it!!!!

Your point earlier about reusing d'cell from the bit you chop off, it's possible if you can get enough that's flat, and the repair surface is flat. cause the old stuff with fiberglass on wont bend, doubt if you can remove the glass without damaging the d'cell. But if you can get both sides back to bare foam, you can preform it with a heat gun/hairdryer.

I've just got the coremat on Mandurah mob's secret weapon, put up 6 photos of the process.
Starts here,
www.seabreeze.com.au/gallery/gallery.asp?imageid=4430

And finishes here,
www.seabreeze.com.au/gallery/gallery.asp?imageid=4435

If you go for a round nose, try this, it's a bit heavier than d'cell, but you don't need a vacuum bag. The stuff I've got is 2mm thick, they didn't have 3mm in stock here. Think it should be OK.

nebbian
WA, 6277 posts
14 May 2007 9:02PM
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Hey Decrepit,

Thanks for the advice.

What function does the divinycell serve? Would I be able to use something else, like balsa wood instead? Can I build in a fuggin truck shock absorber so that when I catapult the board just laughs with glee?

Is the right order of operations something like this:
1) Chop nose off and shape to a pleasing curve
2) Remove about 5cm of d'cell all around the chopped off bit
3) Glass over the EPS
4) Cover in d'cell
5) Glass over the d'cell
6) Fill and paint

decrepit
WA, 12093 posts
14 May 2007 10:24PM
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quote:
Originally posted by nebbian

Hey Decrepit,

Thanks for the advice.


No worries
quote:


What function does the divinycell serve?




It's the core of the foam sandwich, 3-5 mm of reasonably hard stuff on the inside and a layer of glass/carbon on each side for tensile strength, makes a very rigid outside skin. This spreads any loads over a wide area so the inside soft stuff can handle it. It was a failing of the compressive strength of the d'cell that allowed your crease to happen. (unless the inside layer of glass fractured, you'll know that when you pull it apart).

quote:

Would I be able to use something else, like balsa wood instead?




yes, except balsa can't be heat formed to the rail shape.
Balsa is about the same density as d'cell but also has tensile strength, not that you'll need that on the nose.

You could also use a veneer of pine or something.
Have heard of just using a carbon/kevlar/carbon sandwich. Bit expensive over a whole board but if you can get off cuts from somewhere, should be OK.

quote:

Can I build in a fuggin truck shock absorber so that when I catapult the board just laughs with glee?



I use an extra layer of 200 gram/m2 carbon kevlar composite around the nose of my boards, and have done a retro fit on Elmo's. Before I did Elmo's over a year ago he was bringing his board in every month or so, for a nose job. Since then I haven't seen it. (except on the water)

quote:

Is the right order of operations something like this:
1) Chop nose off and shape to a pleasing curve
2) Remove about 5cm of d'cell all around the chopped off bit
3) Glass over the EPS
4) Cover in d'cell
5) Glass over the d'cell
6) Fill and paint




1) yes
2) as long as you don't touch the underlying glass.
5cm is more than necessary, you only need the new under glass to bind to the old, 2cm is probably enough there, if it was the middle of the board, I'd make it 3 or 4.

3, 4) this should be one operation, you use the wet glass to bond the d'cell.

5) yes
6) yes.

Feel free to PM me if you need any more details.

If you heat form the d'cell and want to mold it around the rails, make sure there's fiberglass on top of the styro, and you don't point the gun directly at it. Doesn't take very much heat to melt styro!!!

Haggar
QLD, 1664 posts
16 May 2007 8:21AM
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This is great guys. If this goes well Nebs I'll get you to reshape and reglass my speed board latter this year

nbr
QLD, 291 posts
16 May 2007 11:39AM
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Smashed the front of my board last week up at Tinnaroo found a local back home in Townsville who fixes all the boards for the local surf club.He performed a miricle with it a real professional job that cost me $70.As far as I'm concerned now he can do all my repairs as my jobs have never lasted and they looked crap.

TelecomGreg
QLD, 94 posts
16 May 2007 5:25PM
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Hey Nebs the last pic reminds me of a tiger shark, keep us updated with more pics as you go and sign it off when your finished you might start your own signature model

TelecomGreg

nebbian
WA, 6277 posts
16 May 2007 4:20PM
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Hey Haggar,
You can reglass your own dam' board thank you very much! I'd rather be sailing


Scrounged some divinycell from a boatbuilder today, tried to cut it with a hot wire but no luck. Ended up ripping it down to 3 mm on a table saw.

I see now why people vacuum bag this stuff... even at 3mm it doesn't want to bend! Does anyone have any ideas on how to make it conform to the shape, without too much mucking around? Put a plastic bag around it and dunk it in water? Get a fridge compressor from the tip and hope it doesn't suck too hard? I don't have a heat gun

plev
QLD, 181 posts
16 May 2007 8:43PM
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Hey Nebs,
Al Green in caloundra works miracles in the repair dept.

decrepit
WA, 12093 posts
16 May 2007 7:26PM
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quote:
Originally posted by nebbian


Scrounged some divinycell from a boatbuilder today, tried to cut it with a hot wire but no luck. Ended up ripping it down to 3 mm on a table saw.



You didn't ask that question! Hot wire is no good with d'cell.

quote:

I see now why people vacuum bag this stuff... even at 3mm it doesn't want to bend!




That's what I was trying to tell you, and why I recommended coremat.

quote:

Does anyone have any ideas on how to make it conform to the shape, without too much mucking around?




Wife have hairdyer???? Don't let her know where you're going with it!!!!
If you tape up the edges of the d'cell with masking tape it's much less likely to crack. If you've got a very smooth constant curve, pulling it hard around the curve with masking tape, may work.

quote:

Put a plastic bag around it and dunk it in water? Get a fridge compressor from the tip and hope it doesn't suck too hard?



The only couple of times I used that method the bag sprung a leak, not the desired result.

Fridge compressor is not much good by itself, it will pull 1 atmosphere then burn out when the air stops flowing!!!
I haven't tried it, but a primitive bleed valve may work.

Just try different size small holes until you get desired pressure
A cheap source of vacuum gauge is from the car wreckers, full scale is close enough to 1 atmosphere, I use mine at about 30% full scale.

I switch mine in the same manner that air-compressors work. An old gas bottle as reservoir, and a pressure sensor from radio spares switching the compressor. A lot of work to make up for 1 nose job.

Why don't you ask the boat builder if he has coremat???

Just thought of another method, bit heavy but should be OK over that area.
1) Glass the area with 1 layer 4oz
2) Screed some epoxy/qcell bog over that with a 2 to 3mm notched spreader, (like those notched spreaders you get with contact cement tins)
3) when that's set more bog to fill the notch grooves
4) more glass, about 2 layers 4oz
5) more bog
6) sand and paint.

chairman
500 posts
16 May 2007 7:47PM
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Admirable efforts
I do believe in you
I will bring a spare brd for fridays sail
Shame Eggs cant make it

nebbian
WA, 6277 posts
16 May 2007 7:55PM
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Thanks Chairman, much appreciated

Decrepit: Thanks so much for walking me through this, hopefully some other people are reading this and are getting an idea on what's involved for next time...

What about cutting notches in the divinycell so it can bend, then bogging those notches up once everything's dried? Or basically building up the shape with multiple pieces of divinycell so it doesn't have to bend so much? I'm determined to use the stuff because it was so hard to get!

decrepit
WA, 12093 posts
16 May 2007 8:13PM
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Yep, that'll work, either way.



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"Chopping nose off board" started by nebbian