I ended up with an old surfboard after a mate moved away.
It's a Darryl Bulger 'Trent' 6'5" x 19 1/2"
I had the idea to turn it into a kiteboard by adding another layer of fibreglass, to add strength, and footstraps couse i'm a noob.
The board shows signs of stress, fracture lines in the glass on the underside.
It had quite a dinged up deck, i've filled and sanded it back to a decent flat surface. Next is the Under side.
The fins are cut down quite short, thats how i got it.
I need to know if i should cut them off and fit new fins, Shape them better, or leave them as is.
If new fins, what kind? 2" kiteboard fins?
I also what advise on placement of the straps.
How many straps?
I was going to put 2 straps on. both on an angle accross the centre line, as on a twin tip, and also have a large area padded so i can move my feet if i progress that far.
I have footstraps, and an idea of where to get the inserts (someone here has an excess) and i have enough 100gsm glass on its way, to do both sides.
so this is my plan:
1. fill and sand underside
2. decide what to do about the fins. HELP!!!!
3. Locate and fit inserts for footstraps. HELP!!!!
4. lay new glass
Gday Peter,
I've done a couple of old surfboard conversions so far, good cheap way to get a directional. Total cost of mine was $50 including board from the tip.
Dunno about the fins,, I'd just give them a bit of a shape and seal them,, they may work like that? If not you can always take them out and fit some FCS plugs..
I never bothered ading a layer of glass for strength, old board I got was already pretty tough (Rusty),, heaps of dings, cracks etc. Main thing I did was to make sure it was watertight.
Foot position was easy, rear foot strap should be (for me) toward the front of the forward fins, front strap is slightly forward of where I normally stand when surfing. Or just have a close look at a few pro boards, you'll be able to guess where they go. I put in 2 extra attachment points so I could move straps forward or backwards.
I recycled an old damaged windsurfer, stripped out the deck plugs, cleaned them up, marked where I wanted them to go and used a router to make a channel (just dont go through the stringer). Then made up a stand to hold the plugs in place (and stop epoxy going in th eplug hole), finally filled the channel with epoxy, easy. Seems to be strong enough, only prob I found is that I kept bending stainless screws,, will add extra plugs for next board.
Also made up some foam footpads for comfort (found the surfing grip stuff a bit hard on the feet).. Will see if I can get a pic for you later..
Best thing about it is you can flog the crap out of it,, break it,, have a laugh and then (after a trip to the tip) make another one..
Good luck, and send us some pics when your done
Those fins are pointless for a directional. You'll need to take careful note of their placement, then cut them off & fit plugs(the easiest method) You'll be better off with only about 12mm toe-in on the thrusters for kiting. For that board just get cheap plastic fins.
You can find a similar kiting board & measure strap positions, but the best way is to use it & then you'll see where your feet are comfortable. You should mount the plugs along the centreline. Your back foot will probably be over the thrusters.
I'd be questioning whether it's worth the effort of laying an extra layer of glass? Maybe just reinforce the damage. It's still gunna be an old & temporary board.
good luck
Col
Just as a rough guide, my 6' 2" Slingshot SST mid strap positions are 205, 365, 915, 1075mm all measurments from tail.
Good to see a good amount of auto bog being used, just a roll of duct tape and your done 
Strap a foil to the bottom of it.
Cheers Stefan
.
For the amount of time, money and effort you need to fix that up, you would be better off buying a more suitable size board in better condition, 6'5 is huge unless your 130kgs. 100 bucks should get you a half decent board with fins, then just add straps and ditch the extra layers of glass, as strength isn't a huge issue if you are learning.
6'5 is pretty big... ok to get you up and riding to begin with, or for lighter wind/smaller kite. Then once you get styling on that, then consider a shorter board and swap b/w the two as conditions permit.
Fins are crucial for directional, try it as is if you like, but i'd be replacing either with new one's or glassing ur own if ur up for it.
If you like the shape etc and want to play more, you can always take some length off the tail and or re shape rear rails to desired overall flow.
Strength is going to be ur issue and great idea to add more glass, only concern is of it delaminating (new layer not bonding or coming apart from existing glass) once under stress.
Generally surfboards can handle a fair load, you'll always get heel compressions and it will NOT hold up to any type of repeated aerial stuff. It will never be as strong as an EPS board, but for the price who's complaining?!?!
Forget about straps on this board, will be too tempting to get a little air here or there and end the refurbished life of this board, each to their own, but I find it (strapless) a more natural feel b/w you and the board & the wave.
Get some deck grip for front and rear feet and you'll be sweet.
Oh and keep us updated with how it all goes!!!
yeeewwww!!
All that board needs is wax
Seriously, for learning on a surfboard you are better off without straps
plus, when you are learning to transition you will fall a lot and smash it up anyways
6'5" is perfect for changing stance, very forgiving and 19 and a half is too wide for straps unless you have size 16 shoes
Jedibrad is right, straps aren't really gunna be a help, they're more for the extreme conditions if you so choose. & I'd say that ain't you right now.
Cut 3 inches off the nose and tail and turn it into a Celeritis. Relocate the fins, reduce the tow-in a bit. With that length you could keep the tow-in and just move the fins forward into their new position.
I use Q-cell to fill my dings, it's basically fine styrene balls that expand when mix with poly resin and it is lighter than body filler and it's dirt cheap to buy.
Happy tinkering.
Rich
wow, great stuff, thats all.
that has given me heaps to think about.
my problem with not putting straps on is getting on the board.
now i'm going to take photos every day i do more on the board, and keep you guys posted on the progress.
i think the previous owner cut the fins down after repeatedly trying to use the board in very shallow water, as a skurfboard.
materials can be hard for me to get hold of. i live near airlie beach, and unless you want parts for racing yachts, stuff can be hard to find locally.
So i'm left buying over the net, great range, but takes ages to get.
thanks for the measurements of footstrap positions, that info i can take to the bank, wont get me any money, but keeps me moving forwards.
all in all i think i'm basicly on the right track, for what i want to do, will take advise on board and weight it all up along the way.
please keep the advise coming.
cheers
peter
I reckon those fins might make the board too loose, but if you have straps it might be ok or if the rails were sharper. But it is pretty big so you might be ok with it.
Good luck and enjoy. Bring on the action shots.
Wow - lots of great advice - good work guys.
If you want to go with pads/straps but dont want the hassle of inserts you can buy stick-ons from most kite shops. Dearer than inserts but way simpler.
If you are scrounging old bits ask at your local kiteshop/s. Most have a wrecking yard of old bits and pieces you will get for free (or super cheap) and if owners arent busy they are quite likely to to take a personal interest in your project.
For what its worth most of my kite'surf' mates also suggested that I forget about straps when 1st going from TT to surfboard. IMO definitely a great way to go for a start - esp on a big old clunker with lots of bouyancy like yours. Learn on flat water strapless and add straps if & when u want them. Also lets you think about where you might want the pads to go when you do get round to them.
Love these recycle jobbys 
well i am interested in learning strapless, but thought with em would be easier to get going.
how the hell do you start off strapless????
anyone have a link to a basic video please.
just found a great video on the basics.....
and he makes it look so easy......
you would be surprised how easy it is Pete..easier to practice in knee to waist deep water... to avoid face planting in shallow water ..lay back both feet up wait till the angle feels ok ..(ie comfortable ,this becomes obvious once you have a few goes) bit gentle with the kite instead of over cooking it and voila ...
standing start is a little harder at first but once you get the hang of it ..
easier to launch with your front foot on the board rather than your rear as the board careers off in all directions from a standing start...
few other jump start variations once you become a little more adventurous...
unless the area you kite is totally free of rocks /oysters /sticks/sting rays...etc a pair of booties the first few times will save you feet when you are trawling around in the shallows after overcooking it ...
your knees and ankles will love you!!
Correct - Q-cell -> glass bubbles. You should be able to get it easily with the yachting crowd as they use the stuff to fill gaps in corners when overlaying glass fibre etc. There is another type which is alot heavier but can't remember the name.
Its a piece of pie, I started strapless at the end of my first season and haven't touch my TT since (4 years ago).
One thing I have noticed when guys go from TT to SB's is that they put to much pressure on the back foot, on a SB it is the other way round - you can virtually balance on your front foot and go.
Keep in your mind that you want the board to plane so therefore you need to put most of your weight/balance on the widest part of the board.
I am no pro but it helps me.
Rich
Gday Peter,
I'd seal it before using it in the water, you already did the hard work filling the holes etc. If water gets in the board will get heavier (pretty hard to get it out) and it can rot...
Dave
yeah what i was thinking ^^
i've got all the gear in the post.
fibreglass mat 100gsm 4mx1m
10 stainless inserts 5/16"
plus i have a set of 4 2" twintip fins coming
5/16" was best i could get in stainless. i wanted to get this type as they look solid.
and i can straddle the stringer.
found em on ebay. (a handy place at times)
the glass, from what i could see, is quite light weight.
i just need to get the resin, that i know i can find local.
so i've gone this far, i'll add the inserts, glue em in, glass it up and try it.
Those could rust if they are not stainless but depends on how long you want the board.
The other option is nylon insert made out out of a sheet of nylon and use self tapers to secure straps and it allows you to adjust the straps forwards or backwards. Inset the nylon strip running length ways with the stringer on it s edge so that the self tapers don't go all the way through.
Cheers
Rich
Thinking sideways there Rich Nice.
Looking at the pics again makes me wonder what the guy was thinking to slice off the fins like that ?? That is really wierd.
Could file those fins into North 'S-Bend' fins. The shape is amazingly grippy for their apparent lack of size. Naturally these are Twin tip fins, but might be worth a shot?
My 2 cents worth.
Buy a $150 gum tree second hand 5'11" / 6'1" surfboard and just do it. Learning is trial, error, time and fun. And shouldn't be frustrating your self trying to repair a old board that will no doubt crack or break again in that learning period. However if you have the time and the want to do it. Good luck
A few points Peter, but don't expect to pickup all you need to know from a forum.
*Wax won't affect the bog, the problem is getting it off again. You'd need to clean it off thoroughly & give it a good sanding all over again.
*Water in the cracks won't matter unless the skin has delaminated from the core. Just rinse with fresh water & dry thoroughly. Urethane cores are a closed cell foam so they don't suck up water. If wet for a long time it may deteriorate the foam.
*You'll need a larger hole than those fittings or they'll break free of the foam. Say 20mm dia & 25mm deep & set fittings in with a thick Q cell/resin mix. You'll have a well greased screw in the thread when you set them, & don't screw them out until resin is well set.
*mat 100gsm? Woven cloth is measured in oz (ounces) You didn't buy chopped strand mat did you? CSM is alot cheaper but nowhere near as strong & soaks up miles of resin. ie heavy
* A serious word of warning. Polyester resin catylist is extremely dangerous to the eyes. wear eye protection when mixing. I don't know for sure if it's true but I heard of a case of catylist in the eye that eventually travelled via the optic nerve to damage the other eye as well!
i know you have the gear now pete but an alternative method you or anyone else can use is to buy 4 legrope plugs... insert them at appropriate attachment points for your straps and attach the straps with small thin cable ties..while it sounds bodgey the major benefit of this is when you get rolled by a wave or crash from a great height the first thing to go is the cable tie saving your knee/ankle etc as the leverage from a surfboard over 6 feet is far greater than any TT....carry a few in your bag as spares..won't be long and you will come to the dark side...(strapless) .. anyway .
you will need to replace the fins on that board to have any real drive/carve power unless you are happy to spin out/around on any wave that you catch
post some finished photos when you are done !!
cheers
point noted prawn, thanks.
waves.... i wish.
the great barrier reef is just that, a barrier, stop any swell coming into shore up here.
this is a project, but please dont stop the input, it all helps, the end use for the board will be cruising the shallows, sandy bottom, no rocks, choppy **** most of the time, but i do get great flat water sections amoung the crap.
there is only about 5 of us that kitesurf at conway beach, it's a shallow beach that goes out a long way at low tide. sometimes it's a 1km walk out to the water, then finding the deeper parts starts.
the rising tide is my preference, and i do like carving on the face of some of the bigger chop in close.
anyway, here is the cloth....
and drilling the holes for the inserts.......
i can make the holes wider and deeper under the skin very easy if needed.
i dug out some foam under the skin to make more of a plug behind the glass.
