Select to expand quoteHausey said..
^^^^^
Sounds like a good idea to do some more testing...great place to do it as well!
Not trying to discourage you - the Dynabar is so much better than a fixed hook, however....
There has to be a better way than extending the rope even more forward and away from the body - with eye bolts and shackles - as shown on the top and bottom photos. Which make it more clunky!
Having the rope go through the hole (as in the middle photo) is the best for performance. The problems being that the rope has been breaking (on the V8) and isn't visible to inspect. However this didn't seem to be a problem with the V7?
Re-tensioning the rope needs to be addressed.
If the rope went back through a hole in a composite carbon fibre bar, which would be thick enough to not cut the rope - like the stainless steel bars have been; and went back to an integrated cleat on the back of the bar - that allowed visible inspection and easy re-tensioning....
Maybe this could be V9?
I couldn't agree more. Don't make it more clunky than it needs to be. I streamlined my V7 by going back to the dyneema slider (the power wave bar was trashing my surfboard anytime I made incidental contact). Taking it one step further, I opted for stainless steel rings instead of the roller hook. I don't unhook and it's one less clunky object to potentially ding my board. The rings do wear the line faster. Using drysuit zipper wax (bees wax) on the dyneema helps reduce wear.
Since I replace the line more often than before, having a "cleat" system of sorts is a great idea! Re-tensioning via a figure eight can be a project at times. Just place the cleat behind or inside the bar, nothing exposed.
Love the Dynabar!
Select to expand quoteHausey said..
There has to be a better way than extending the rope even more forward and away from the body - with eye bolts and shackles - as shown on the top and bottom photos. Which make it more clunky!
The eye bolts extend 2cm forward, the Greenarrowz solution with shackles 2mm 
The supporting pivots and the shackles are free to rotate and swing like the rope does.
The cut of the dyneema is due to sharp edges of the broken grommet, a composite bar withou protective grommets will cut the rope due to continous friction.
Let see how the PVC grommets will work, for sure they don't brake and cut the rope as the PA plastic does.
The D link system offers more than just geometrical freedom of "swivel and pivot" .
It also reduces stress on the Dyneema by completely eliminating "any sharp angle" out of the equation.
Anchored directly from one side to the other with the only curve at the pulley is simplicity with a low maintenance and long performance life = lowest cost and more time on the water .
Select to expand quoteGreenarrowz said..
The D link system offers more than just geometrical freedom of "swivel and pivot" .
It also reduces stress on the Dyneema by completely eliminating "any sharp angle" out of the equation.
Anchored directly from one side to the other with the only curve at the pulley is simplicity with a low maintenance and long performance life = lowest cost and more time on the water .
. . . aside from the 180 degree bend of the eye. . . .
I'm following this thread with interest, and am about to replace my dyneema (and grommets if possible).
I'm happy with my V8, using the dyneema slider, but the grommets have deformed a little (not split or broken), and there appears to be the start of fraying of the dyneema.
I'll probably incorporate whatever comes out of your testing to be the best/safest option, so I'm just wondering how the tests went.
Thanks
Select to expand quoteWatto5 said..
I'm following this thread with interest, and am about to replace my dyneema (and grommets if possible).
I'm happy with my V8, using the dyneema slider, but the grommets have deformed a little (not split or broken), and there appears to be the start of fraying of the dyneema.
I'll probably incorporate whatever comes out of your testing to be the best/safest option, so I'm just wondering how the tests went.
Thanks
Mine are borked, but there's no wear at that point. They've been deformed since day one...I'm still on the original rope.
Used my new Dynabar V8 XW twice now with the original setup and I love it.
- Rope, pulley, chicken loop
- Ring on rope for short leash
After reading this thread I think I will remove the red ball and attach 2nd safety directly to the frame. I would prefer attaching somewhere on my harness but I don't have anywhere for a short leash and would rather not go back to a long leash. It does seem odd me in the original setup the second safety and pulley are both on the same line, if the rope breaks the whole kite is gone.
My concern is I generally start my sessions of boosting on a Twin Tip then switch to directional for some carving. Am I not putting a huge amount of strain on the rope if I'm boosting with it?
I do everything with the D-bar and I weigh more than you. Check it before your session, and go for it. Odds are good the rope is stronger than a Dakine spreader bar anyway 
Add a second rope in the bottom holes on the spreader bar...
The spare rope is the go, make it a little longer than the original so it's not wearing. Just a safety net when the rope does break....because it will. Then you will be able to ride back and get it sorted without losing the whole deal. Your ring is vulnerable as it is so you will lose the kite.
Just got myself the dynarbar v8 xt and prowave slider. The metal prowave slider isn't fitting into the middle metal frame (seems slightly too wide). I can just get it to go in, but not in properly and it will come back out because of the tension. Is this normal? Just seems a little bit too wide.
I love the Dynabar with the sliding rope, would never go back to a fixed hook.
Just wondering are there any disadvantages if any using the pro metal slider bar?
A plus would be not having to worry about checking your rope for wear all the time.
Seems everyone is sold on the rope idea.
Select to expand quotehorace01 said...
I was wanting to try a sliding hook setup with my seat harness as I was really struggling to ride toeside.
So I started making my DIY alternative when a V7 Dynabar came up on ebay for $70.00.
My setup only came with the lace/rope, which was a little stretched, making it very difficult for me to reach my above the bar depower. Once I added another knot into the rope and shortened it a wee bit I have never looked back.
I am really digging the Dynabar and like many others cannot see myself going back to a fixed hook anytime soon.
Now the cheeky bit.... I would like to try the freeride and prowave bars but don't want to buy them then decide I prefer the rope. To that end does anyone in Melbourn have one I could borrow? If I like it I would buy it from you if you wanted to sell it. Thanks
A special shout out to @surfingboye for sending me a prowave bar to try.
So it's been a couple of months and I gotta say I really don't like it. The slide motion is just not smooth enough and I find I it tends to bind a little.
I'll be switching back to the rope setup post haste.
Ok got the sliding hook on the metal slider and im finding that my chicken loop will come out sometimes in really strong movements. Like relaunching or self launching particularly. Has anyone else ever had this issue? I have a core sensor 2 bar and im not sure if my chickenstick is supposed to be able to move 90 degrees from where it attaches. I cant remember if it was fixed at the base before and thus is the reason for the problem now. Seems like it?
Finally wore my rope out this week. 70 sessions since I got it, fresh and salt water, TT, directionals and foils . . . couple of hours a sesh. Only noticed cos I happened to look down. Parted in the center, so I rode it back to the beach. No drama.
Select to expand quoteCygnify said...
Ok got the sliding hook on the metal slider and im finding that my chicken loop will come out sometimes in really strong movements. Like relaunching or self launching particularly. Has anyone else ever had this issue? I have a core sensor 2 bar and im not sure if my chickenstick is supposed to be able to move 90 degrees from where it attaches. I cant remember if it was fixed at the base before and thus is the reason for the problem now. Seems like it?
Actually the chicken stick is supposed to be move and is on an elastic rope. Maybe this is the issue?
Anyone else has problems of the chicken loop coming off the bungee rope slider hook?
So I did a 101km session test using the prowave metal slider to see if it was better than the rope...
First up this had a faster sliding motion, probably too quick, when jumping slider could move around easily pulling you off center but I think you could adapt to this.
Was all good until the plastic roller began to deform and then just started to slide and grab rather then roll, I thought/suspected this would probably happen before even using.
I don't know if this is a quality issue or just poor engineering, I think a brass, bronze or harder plastic (UHMWPE) roller is needed and maybe more people would use this option.
I suspect the roller was part of my issue too.
Still I prefered the rope so will stick with that.
The contact surface between roller or pulley is very small and
the roller slides instead of turning. There are also bending areas who are not completely smooth.
We tried harder delrin glass loaded but it wears more quickly.
The rope works better because it creates an angle and increases the contact with the pulley who is designed to have max contact surface.
Select to expand quote
jaystore said..
The contact surface between roller or pulley is very small and
the roller slides instead of turning. There are also bending areas who are not completely smooth.
We tried harder delrin glass loaded but it wears more quickly.
The rope works better because it creates an angle and increases the contact with the pulley who is designed to have max contact surface.
Ok I see what you mean now, maybe a roller with groove for an 'O' ring so it can run along the slider bar and drive the roller so it rotates without sliding.
Also a 'lead in' (30 degrees) so roller still takes the load on hard surface with 2 contact points.
See my design for new roller, let me know what you think and I can do a fully detailed drawing if you want, I just don't have access to a lathe atm to make one and try myself.
You have probably tried various designs... just my 2c
I'd be more interested in a loop behind the roller to catch the rope/slider in case the screw holding the roller ever failed...
Select to expand quote
Adoy said..
jaystore said..
The contact surface between roller or pulley is very small and
the roller slides instead of turning. There are also bending areas who are not completely smooth.
We tried harder delrin glass loaded but it wears more quickly.
The rope works better because it creates an angle and increases the contact with the pulley who is designed to have max contact surface.
Ok I see what you mean now, maybe a roller with groove for an 'O' ring so it can run along the slider bar and drive the roller so it rotates without sliding.
Also a 'lead in' (30 degrees) so roller still takes the load on hard surface with 2 contact points.
See my design for new roller, let me know what you think and I can do a fully detailed drawing if you want, I just don't have access to a lathe atm to make one and try myself.
You have probably tried various designs... just my 2c
Symmetrical washer less design:
We will give a try, thanks.
Meanwhile we have finalised the "Greenarrowz solution" and you can contact Kitepower Australia for availability dates.
Sounds like the goods....
I been using my original for months now with no complaints.
Would jaystore consider sending me one out for testing? ?
I have a idea for a micro rachet rope adjuster in mind.
Select to expand quotejaystore said..
We will give a try, thanks.
Meanwhile we have finalised the "Greenarrowz solution" and you can contact Kitepower Australia for availability dates.
I like this, I have been looking at trying to make something myself, but I'm not able to cut down the stainless pivots due to lack of machine shop tools. hey ho.
Anyways, can you still run the ball bearing block with this new rope setup? I've found the block is the smoothest solution on the rope, which is also helped by having a larger area to spread the load.
Select to expand quotejaystore said..
We will give a try, thanks.
Meanwhile we have finalised the "Greenarrowz solution" and you can contact Kitepower Australia for availability dates.
can you still run the ball bearing block with this new rope setup?
I see the kit listed on the .eu shop site. Shame the delivery is more expensive than the item.
You can use the bearing block we sell or similar. You remove the shackle and insert a plastic tie in the knot then pull it through the bearing block hole.
The knot is specially spliced and you can't open it and make it back.
Sorry for the shipping price, Kitepower Australia submitted an order today and we will deliver mid June.
Select to expand quoteGreenarrowz said..
Sounds like the goods....
I been using my original for months now with no complaints.
Would jaystore consider sending me one out for testing? ?
I have a idea for a micro rachet rope adjuster in mind.
We will send you for sure. About the rachet, with this spliced rope solution the rope won't stretch also after first usage (we hope to understand well "rachet to be used to trim the rope").
