Select to expand quoteTerryMcTool said..
(lots of things)
Terry, I have the same Mystic harness. Is there a video or could you make one? Sorry there is a lot of tech speak here in this thread and it's hard to understand. Actually, I'll buy a DynaBar first and then get back to you if that's ok?
Select to expand quoteTerryMcTool said..
Apparently the V8 and V7 no longer come with the slider bars as pictured here, they can be purchased separately. If you don't like the rope slider alone definitely don't give up on the Dynabar, purchase one of the metal slider options, ride like that for a while (or forever) and try the rope from time to time to see if is something that you then feel better about.
You definitely DO NOT need to use the rope to get the benefits of the sliding spreader, the rope is best suited to directional surfboard riding, and the sliding metal bar is best suited to TT, but of course there will be exceptions and its best to experiment, the metal slider parts are inexpensive and last a lifetime.
So just to clarify, does the Dynabar V8 currently for sale on kitepower website include either of the metal slider bars shown in the picture? Also, which bar is the "ProWave Slider V8", the bar with the pronounced or mild bump, or neither?
Ok sorry about the confusion and I'll send the guys at KP some feedback on this.
The Dynabar V8 XT comes with the rope, sliding hook, fixed hook, hook locker and belt hook.
It does not come with either of the metal sliders.
The Pro-Wave slider is the one with the less pronounced bump in the middle. Rec Ret for the metal sliders is $49
Select to expand quoteTerryMcTool said..
Ok sorry about the confusion and I'll send the guys at KP some feedback on this.
The Dynabar V8 XT comes with the rope, sliding hook, fixed hook, hook locker and belt hook.
It does not come with either of the metal sliders.
The Pro-Wave slider is the one with the less pronounced bump in the middle. Rec Ret for the metal sliders is $49
Thanks for the clarification.
Furthermore, if the pro-wave slider is the one with the less pronounced bump, will there be an option to purchase the dynabar V8 with the more pronounced bump?
For twin tip riding, is the slider with the more pronounced bump the best option?
Mate, unless you're a super competitive shredder, once you're used to the rope slider you'll love it - even with the twinny.
I started with the pronounced bump bar, but got sick of it very quickly as it created a "catch effect" when doing a quick/tight turn from heel to toe or vice versa, which would just be annoying and bit offputting. Then I used the less pronounced bar for a couple of years as I was mainly just rising TT's (and I though thats what worked best), but then I decided to learn to ride a surfboard, unstrapped at first, and now mostly ride strapped, and the rope option is definitely so much better. I think this is why Dynabar offer that as the main options because most people will prefer it.
The sliding bars are a bit like trainer wheels, you don't really need them, even for TT riding, and as LostDog says if you are a serious shredder you will still need a fixed hook, so that you can unhook.
You get used the rope and slider system quickly and realise to centralise everything requires a quick short gut/torso rotation.
**** this ****. No one responds to my genuine questions anymore.
I hope you all get lofted! I am outta here
Select to expand quoteLoftywinds said..
**** this ****. No one responds to my genuine questions anymore.
I hope you all get lofted! I am outta here
LOL this place is gold!
What was the question -- can you make a video? Of what? Did you try YouTube?
Or was it:
Yes it's ok if you buy one and get back to us...
The bars are sold separately (and have been for about a year) because theyre unnecessary. If you want the hook sliding, use the rope.
If you want it locked into the center but still rotating and tracking the kite, use the U-bolt that's included in the kit.
I measured the distance between the spreader buckles on my Dakine Fusion seat harness (size L) and it's about 24cm.
There is no way the small size of the Dynabar which is 29cm is going to fit 
there's very little space left to tighten the straps afterwards. I'm assuming the 29cm/11" small size is the width of the spreader between the buckles.
What are my alternative options ?
Select to expand quoteAlysum said..
I measured the distance between the spreader buckles on my Dakine Fusion seat harness (size L) and it's about 24cm.
There is no way the small size of the Dynabar which is 29cm is going to fit there's very little space left to tighten the straps afterwards. I'm assuming the 29cm/11" small size is the width of the spreader between the buckles.
What are my alternative options ?
24cm is 9.5 inches... 28cm is 11 inches, for all the difference it makes. IIRC Dakine does 8, 10 and 12 inch spreaders and my best is you got the 10 inch. An 11 inch Dynabar would only be 12mm extra on each side... and you could always use the inner slots.
I've got an XXL harness and with the clips, I'm down to very little left in the straps -- maybe a few inches. I got the 11 inch Dynabar because I knew I'd need clips for the Fusion -- although Terry seems to be doing ok without them -- and the general feeling is that the 11 is more curved than the 13, fitting better to rounder stomachs, if that's of any use to you.
I'll be buying another one when they release the pad with hook knife holder anyway, so we'll see how 13 goes then.
Select to expand quote
Is the ring on the rope for direct connection (putting the chicken loop through the ring). would the ring damage the chicken loop? it seems like it does not spread the pressure like a normal hook. I am thinking of setting my homemade sliding spreader bar up with a direct connection like this
When I bought my dynabar, they sold me on these attachment clips. Honestly,not sure if they are needed, but they might help with these issues of width?
The other advantages is easy access and removal. Seems to work well.
Hey no need to wish a lofting on anyone! Sorry I missed your question, its all in the vids, watch these or go to Vimeo and search for JayStore Kiteboarding heaps of vids and info.
Small or 11" will fit, I have a female friend who kites who is about 45kg and 4'11" and she uses the 11" spreader no worries.
If you fit a size L harness or larger you should use the 13" spreader, as the 11" will pinch in at the hips and be less comfortable. The reverse applies too, if you use the 13" on small harnesses they will not tighten properly.
Select to expand quoteTerryMcTool said...
Small or 11" will fit, I have a female friend who kites who is about 45kg and 4'11" and she uses the 11" spreader no worries.
Sounds like your bragging a bit there steve
No the ring is designed to connect a leash to. Its probably strong enough for direct connection but I'd recommend getting one with a larger diameter, or even better get a Ronstan roller bearing and 30mm ring like show here.
Just run the pulley on the rope and connect the ring to the shackle on the pulley and then connect your chicken loop tom the ring, and SHORT leash to the Dynabar supplied ring on the slider rope. My experience is that rings sliding on the rope wear the rope very quickly and do not feel as smooth as a pulley. Chicken loops connected straight to the rope work, but your chicken loop will wear over time and again it just does not slide as smoothly as a pulley.
The whole idea of having s sliding spreader is to have it as smooth running as possible, you do not want to have something that drags and moves in a jerky way (C-Loop direct especially).
Thanks for that, I am currently using rope sliders which work well and are basically pulleys with no wheel. I have lashed them to a hook that I cut off the spreade bart and the setup does work quite well however I need to find a way to take some length out of the whole setup. I use a non stretch dyneema line and I use pliers to tie it down to the bar as tight as possible. If I used a ring around the line and connected it straight to the CL this would get rid of the length from the hook and rope slider. the other solution I had thought would be to customise a CL by using some heavy rope which I could connect direct to the hook/ring. Obviously I would need to properly test it to make sure it can all release properly.
Is a direct connection safe? Obviously if the quick release jams in an emergency you are F'd but that could be true for the standard connection system. One good thing about direct connection is that every time you hook in you are checking your QR works and your also practicing reassembling it.
I've seen pics of JayStore suggesting using two rings to put the CL through, and slide on that. Someone even put a pre-2012 Cabrinha QR straight onto the ring...
I have the same concern, as I've had four CLs snap where the pressure from the hook has worn holes into the PU tube, then either the CL rope has rotted or sand has abraded it til it snapped.
The Dynabar hook is a better design than two rings or the Dakine spreader bar hook, IMO; what touches the PU is flatter and less sharply curved. I'd still rather have a pulley on the rope and something to hook into...
yes I would still rather the standard setup as unhooking in the normal manner is potentially another safety release and it means your compatible with all bar setups. I just ned to find a very short chicken loop
If just using the dyneema with hook... would this kit suffice ?
www.jaystore.eu/index.php/shopping/product/31-dynabar-xw-v7
Short leashes with releases
www.kitepower.com.au/collections/kitesurfing/kites+ozone
and
www.kitepower.com.au/cabrinha-bypass-leash.html
I never use a long leash anymore, the long ones are just another thing to get caught up in (managed to put my knee and most of my leg through one in the surf), if you are not bar passing, they are the best option.
Direct connecting is fine, if you have a modern push away quick release. I'm not convinced that the current Best chicken loop will not jam, as I've seen it happen, but all the others, especially North, Cab, Ozone, Naish, BWS, all work super reliably, so there is no need to worry about direct connection. Some chicken loops can be fitted with super short loops, I know the Ozone and Cab can really easily.
Even if you are a short ass like me, I have no problem using short depower throw kites like the Reo (I only ride these and Cats) I can fully depower a kite as much is it will depower, using a standard Dynabar and hook, but I've recently switched to a pulley with no hook and thats made everything about 25mm closer, which is even better.
Mystic Majestic harness.
Dynabar V8. Small.
On both sides Hooks from Dynabar.
Extra rope for back up. A bit more loose than the other rope so there is no tension.
2 rings for not wearing out the rope.
Short leash(Ozone) which you can attach directly on the spreaderbar.
Removed the quikreleasepin for cleaner setup. I trust on my quikrelease of my Ozone chickenloop.
Works perfect. No riding up of the harness. The bar stays pefect in place because the hooks holds it flat on the stomach.
Decided to give a custom rope and pulley or snap shackle a go first due to the narrow fitting of my harness spreader.
Anyone know what breaking load the pulley should be strong enough for at least? I don't suppose the load is as high as sailing rigging load...
Try the Ronstan RF35100 pulley although you don't really need the swivelling capability, its rated at 300kg working load and 600kg breaking load.
why the **** don't you muppets just let the harness slide around
sava da money and get the harness fitting right
Select to expand quoteUgly said..
why the **** don't you muppets just let the harness slide around
sava da money and get the harness fitting right
Doesn't save you money.
Cost money cause your wetsuit will wear out soon.
At least mine does and I need wetsuits at my homespot.
Select to expand quoteUgly said..
why the **** don't you muppets just let the harness slide around
sava da money and get the harness fitting right
Tell me how a harness sliding around and up into your armpits is it "fitting right"?
