Hola Juan, That is the only drawing I have left. The plan got changed that many times over the years. That is the one I ended up with. You can measure the lengths and angles off the drawing. They are not critical. The green painted steel frame is 57mm OD x 3.2mm wall thickness. The Aluminium tubes are 48.4mm OD x 4.5 wall thickness (scaffold tube) . The connections are just simple pinning bolts, same as on that French one you have photos of. Make sure you use at least 20mm stub axils and 6004 bearings for the rear wheels.
Hello,
I have been following the forum, quietly, from far!!!
We have been focused on promoting landsailing to younger pilots!
From march until a couple of weeks ago, I took groups of college people to introduce them into this sport, now the seeds are in its place, now I hope to have a good harvest of new pilots!!
With a friend we try to make a class 5 with the plans the french people gave us.
as we do not have aluminum available, we made a chassis of steel pipes, but it is not finished, yet.
I hope to be able to make more people interested.
now, with winter coming, colder days, almost no wind, I guess we will wait until september to reassume landsailing.
Until last year it was easier to get people together to go to "the pampa del leoncito" in argentina, 350 km from my home in santiago. I guess it is because of the economic crisis, the swine flu or who knows.
Anyway, as soon as I can get someone to go along, I will go landsaling.
Our objectives now is to build a team to go to the world championship next year in Belgium. I hope we can make it again.
muchos saludos
juan enrique
juan enrique
Hello Juan Enrique,
Welcome back, I am glad to hear you have been reading from afar and not scared off by the silly tit for tat that was going on. It is pleasing to note that things on the forum are not back on an even, and more productive, keel.
Please tell us some more about your work with the college students - do you feel you had some interested ones who will follow through? Lets hope so.
Yes the finances are on everyone's mind now, I hope you manage to get to Belgium for the worlds next year. Unfortunately it is out of the question for us this time around but perhaps next time.
cheers Susan
Thank you Joe. Like you I have spent many years evolving my craft.
One thing I have found, larger diameter wheels use less power to push them along. Also they wil ride over rough roads much better. I suspect you are not so much looking speed but more like, eeeeease. Worth a thought.
Where would one generally find nice looking wheels of the sort used on your 5?
Yesterday my Dad did some work at a property with racing horses and spied some 5 spoke buggy (sulkie??) wheels, have these been used or appropriate? I guess many are homebuilt (like AUS230's)?
I'll get back to work now (telling myself helps.....sometimes 
) 
Hi Lachlan several of the guys over here myself included have used sulky training
wheels these are 24 inch diameter and take a motorcycle tyre which we made into slicks by taking off the tread The ones made and sold by The Sulky Shop in Cambridge NZ are plastic come in various colours weigh about 5.25KG are very strong but the bearings are 17mm ID which is on the small side for a land yacht
I had no trouble with them but I did have high tensile stub axles and spacers
between the bearings and made sure they were done up tight
The 26 inch home made ones I am currently using are lighter about 4kg all up
The sulky wheels are good value though but I dont know the current prices
The Sulky Shop has a web site
The 24 inch size is the largest you can use for pacrim if that counts
hope this helps
the 5 spokers are made by Starfire wheels,and sadly they have a tendency to shatter.they are not really stable enough for a Cl 5. last price I got was $650 per set. Then you need to make plates for the bearings. the yanks use them and bolt 2 discs of ally plate either side to stiffen them.
realistically the best bet for wheels in Australia would be to have a go at following Vics wheel building exercise. Vic tells me hes going to fit an alloy rim into the building of the wheel in his next version
Hope I havent let any cats out of bags there VIc
Layed up the dics today have gone with 5 layers of 8oz woven this time They are lighter at this stage that the ones I made using 2 woven and 3 mat. I will get some pics up during the build . I think the two halves of mountain bike rims joined together are going to work.
Cheers
AUS230
Finished the first wheel (protype2) today. all up weight with tyre and heavy duty tube is 4.5kg 3/4kg lighter that last years wheel and I think it will be a lot stronger.
Process
1. Lay up discs 5 layers of 8oz woven fibreglass. (epoxy resin used for all parts)
2. Glue 26" mountain bike rim with one side cut of to disc (pic1 and 2)
3.Make up joining strip and 4 spokes from 4 layers of 8oz woven (pic 3)
4. Fit spokes and joining strip to one side of disc. (pic4)Spoke holes work as key in
5. Trim joining strip and spokes and join both halves. Check that everything is square before epoxy sets ((pic5)
6. epoxy 1 layer of 2" fibreglass tape to tube well. (pic 6)
7. finished wheel.
Good job there Aus 230
Very different method to what we used but the weight is about the same
Think you saved same weight using the M/B rims
Looks strong
Awesome job! I have no doubt that you make it look 1000000x easier than it actually is. I hope they perform every bit as well as they look
Thanks guys.
I have used the metal rims this time to try and overcome the problem with the rim seperating in this area (probly due to the very hot conditions at the lake.)also to use higher tyre pressure.
They are not hard to make once you have nutted out what you want, If a problem occours I like and solve it by making changes it that area, If I have problems with these I will make modification and post on here.
Cheers
AUS230
