Im at 4.2kg perwheel and the one with the liner is 4.5
But I wore out a set in 1 day, but they were tip tyres
my hookworms havent arrived
Something I haven't seen/heard is what type of tyres you run on these style rims? I assumed they were motorbike tyres but hookworms are for mountain bikes...
The Maxxis Hookworm seems to be the most popular choice of tyre here in Europe as well. Though I know that other mountain bike tyres are being used for their sidewall strength in races...but it does involve 'shaving' off the tread blocks but some of these are rated as better than the Hookworms. Unfortunately I never bothered to check out what they were as I don't use them myself. Doh!
Cheers Col
I am running Maxxis High rollers 26x2.5 with the tread blocks removed
They have served me well on the beach but dont think they would last on seal or gravel I think Maxxis Hookworms would be better for that
I removed the tread blocks with a sharpened hacksaw blade set at 45 degrees in the frame and soapy water as a lubricant and finished off with a 115mm flap disc
I had a go with a little knife , but it just isnt the family style,
we found thr bigger kukri with a spray of silicon works best.
I only cut the knobs off, lake lefroy does the buffing and then I get 2 sessions out of a tyre.
they are just old 26x1.95 tyres for now
Hookworms arrived just in time for the longweekend
meanwhile , the kids were looking a little hot and bothered ,so I suggested that they paint the class5. it was looking a tad boring in plain silver. they kinda came out like this
I have no idea where the got the idea for the elven warrior
hookworms arrived
I thought they were coming from perth,not the UK
my apologies to WA businesses
they look very happy on the wheels
meanwhile...................................
I figured If i was building something to put these wheels on , it should be something at least slightly different
maybe take some of the ideas from SOS and see if they translate to a cl 5
anyway, here goes
this is your fault Vic, you know that dont you
Its amazing that we can get things cheaper and no freight from overseas.
Keep up the pics
Sucked you in
Cheers
Vic
Pis"Y"chodelia?? Good Grief the Hippies have Invaded us.. What will the rest of the Shell look like???
It is going to be interesting what sort of Lunaticks those girls are going to grow up to be. What with a Father that plays silly games on Salt Flats!!!! There won't be a Boy about that will be able to compete with them..
yer a Hard Man Paul.[}:)]
Ron
What was the final layup of material used, woven/chopped.
As for tires I have used the maxxis hookworms since I built my first wheels, they are very tough and rarely get punctured,
Will you build a new seat for the new one.
Cheers
Vic
the wheel layup I ended using was 2x8ozwoven with 2xchopped strand in between also a layer of carbon over the ribs. the carbon is layed between the chopped strand layers. this was my best compromise for weight/strength. I didnt use any coremat as it gave stiffness but tended to fail at lower loads.
the bond between the ally rims and the polyester resin layup was with an epoxy glue called conglue.. the 2 rims are tigwelded by rob Carr, a retired manual arts teacher in Boulder, who is currently building his 2nd mini(looks great too)
the wheel ended up with the baering housing from a packing of polyester,cabosil ,chopped CF and encased in all the cloth,chopped strand layers.
the pod to fit theyacht will be a similar layup with carbon in the stressed areas. but i will start a strip plug for a mold this week.
any hints for that would be appreciated as I havent done one before.
I brought home a pile of wood from the restoration of the courthouse that I will rip down for the strips,( whta size is best Vic).
happy new year too, home after being flooded out of the lake
Paul I used 1/4" thick x 1" wide strips. that leaves enough thickness to be planed and sanded.
My Kayak Below plus a strip building you tube site.
Paul. Any chance of doing this one as a "How to build a body in GRP" thread? I'm signing myself up for a 1 day fibreglassing course later in the year (missed the January one), as apart from the good old 'gobbo' (Isopon P38 and P40) used on cars I've never touched the stuff, so a nice set of this is what I did photos would be great. Very odd that I've never used it with a Reliant Scimitar and a Tiger Avon in the garage - hey ho.
Cheers Col
I recon that would be a good Idea, There should be a lot of experience out there.
Cheers
aus230
Very nice looking kayak there!
For the little its worth; I've had a little experience planking a yacht hull and then glassing over the surface. It seemed like a fairly simple (albeit a little time consuming) process. I don't think you would have insurmountable problems.
This said the yacht hull was only 900mm long, an RC boat...
Just a tip to make thinks easier Paul. Run the strips through a thicknesser it makes things a lot easier, also put plastic or tape on the whale back where the strips will touch so that the glue will not stick to it.(ordinary wood glue is fine)
Don't glue the strip that runs along the center of either side of the hull as it has to be opened to remove the whale back.
The outside is finished and covered with woven glass before separating the body
Cheers
Vic
aus230,
You have way tooooo much time, Way tooooo much time. That is a very nice looking Kayak and almost too nice to allow water near it. Should be entered as a work of art. You remind me of the Anal retentive Yanks.. I have seen pictures of Fly Rods built by enthusiasts over there. Damn they get into the same stuff when making the Grip..
Ron
Although Paul is making a strip built plug that will become the eventual mold it is possible to just build a strip seat, they turn out light as fiberglass and very strong,
The best thing about working with strip built is that you can make just about any shape.
My first class5 was strip built and is now being refurnish by a friend to enter the racing completion again.
Cheers
aus230
was wondering if anybody has tried the "lost foam method"
we use to build r/c glider fuselages with this method.
basically you carve your plug from foam then glass it and then use acetone to disolve out the foam... any way food for thought
lots of great hints there Vic,pity I was out the shed all the time
so its glued to the frames,and also strengthened with gyprock glue at the edges where the wood will sand real thin. ends will be in plaster /bog/
keep in mind that this is a plug for a mold, rather than a 1 off,so it needs to be really rigid.
. hopefully this will mean there will be a mold for those who follow in our footsteps Vic
strangely, some of the measurements came straight from the old pacific magic seat I had in the loft.
it may look huge but I keep checking against my mini and the overall dimensions are the same
actally , I was hiding in my shed when mrs stig came down to see how bookcase number 2 was coming along, lets say busted wasnt quite the word!!!!!
[}:)] forgot to mention, I use a small hand plane and spoke shave first to get it to sanding stage. Lots of fun and plenty of mess.
Cheers
Vic
I am going to knock up another 26", Mainly to try a scaff tube center, I will try 2 layers 8oz woven and 1 chopped mat, will still use 8 spokes. See how it goes before building another.
See you guys on the 18th.
cheers
aus230
.onto bogging and shaping the ends now before sealing and working on a really fine smooth finish
"Random" sanders are the way to go.... a course disk would smooth it out easy as... I was once shown how good they were by a boat builder that was into land sailing (RIP Stan)
I very rarely use an orbital or belt sander much... its straight to the random sander for me.
finer sanding is with a palm sander that I bought for finishing gyprock,nice little bosch,gives a great finish.
Im trying to avoid any tricky ,tight inside curves this time around
oops wrong date (seniors moment)
I started the wheel with the scaff tube center looks like it will be OK.
Used a piece of drain pipe for a mold around the scaff tube
