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Headsail furlers. Are they needed for cruising?

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Created by Sectorsteve > 9 months ago, 1 Jun 2016
Sectorsteve
QLD, 2195 posts
2 Jun 2016 9:17PM
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nswsailor said..
Well Sectorsteve has a Top Hat like me and Top Hats are driven by their fore sail, without a fore sail you go no-where.

Several times I have wished for a furler when I have rigged the Genoa instead of a smaller sail, [BOM doesn't always get it right].
When this happens you also end up hand steering [I've done 7 hours straight] as an auto-helm cannot handle the conditions.

The last time I REALLY needed to change the Genoa down was west of Prudoe Is heading for MacKay. I had left Digby with an approaching 25+SE due that night, but as things go it caught me. When it did, I was between Prudoe and Double Is.
The SE wind was by then up to 40 knots and I had a flood tide![southerly set]. I needed to get sail off.

The resultant seas were over 6 m and only 25 feet apart . Changing that Genoa was out of the question but I had to lower it to get the main sail down and then re-hoist the Genoa to get on my way again. Once I had got the Genoa back up I turned again for Mackay and fell off one of those waves into the trough.

Seaka went down until the water was at her gunnels all round [would have sold Seaka for a buck at that point!]
before we popped up and I was able to get control and I never took a bit of water on the deck or cockpit during all of this.
I then had to hang on with the large Genoa until we got to calmer conditions closer to the coast.

Are Headsail furlers needed for cruising?


YES STEVE THEY ARE!

Can't wait to get mine.



this is why you said you they were a must when we spoke on the phone! i thought you had one!. Youre totally right though with sail on the TH. without the right size the boat wont go, or be overpowered. very very true on this thing. they just dont go , main only.

MorningBird
NSW, 2662 posts
2 Jun 2016 9:57PM
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I respect Chris249 opinions on here a great deal. He is clearly very experienced and very sensible.
On this one though I think he has missed the point. Crewing on a reasonable size race boat with experienced and current sailors sail changes are often like clockwork.
On a 25-34 ft yacht in heavy seas and high winds the foredeck is a dangerous place to be. Anywhere outside a deep cockpit is not fun.
Hove to or lying ahull in steep breaking seas means 45 degree rolls and heavy water over the deck. Dropping the heady, scrambling forward to haul down a sail with a wild mind of its own, finding the halyard has jammed, returning to the cockpit, scrambling forward again. Get the sail off and take it back down below. Drag another sail up forard. In pitch black. Hank it on or try to get the luff rope in the groove. Tie the sheets on. Get back to the cockpit. Even with a downhaul on the luff you have only avoided a small part of the evolution.
Or luff up and wind in a few turns. Retrim and go back to bed.
What I do on a Lyons 54 or Swarbrick S111 I avoid like the plague on MB.

cisco
QLD, 12327 posts
2 Jun 2016 10:26PM
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Headsail furlers. Are they needed for cruising??

That is a very open question. What size yacht, round the world or just local coasting, rig type??? Is your yacht your consuming passion or one of your toys??

Do you want a furler or a furler/reefer??

A furler is just a method of getting rid of the head sail very quickly and can be done cheaply.

A furler/ reefer is a whole different kettle of fish and requires expenditure of many $$$$ on furler and sail to make the exercise worthwhile.

On a 40 footer or above with inner and outer fore stays I would have a furler on each stay, top quality with top quality sails. Only way to go.

For me, and this is just my opinion, any yacht less than 35 foot, I would have hanked on sails every day of the week and twice on Sunday.

If you have a method of steering the yacht without you, be it auto pilot or crew, dropping a head sail can be quicker and more safe than buggerising around with a furler, assuming you want to reduce sail and raise another to continue sailing efficiently.

Sailing efficiently is what it is all about, is it not??

nswsailor
NSW, 1433 posts
2 Jun 2016 11:41PM
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cisco said..

Headsail furlers. Are they needed for cruising??



For me, and this is just my opinion, any yacht less than 35 foot, I would have hanked on sails every day of the week and twice on Sunday.




Disagree Cisco, its a lot harder to change head sails on a small yacht than a 35 footer.

Sectorsteve
QLD, 2195 posts
2 Jun 2016 11:59PM
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Ohhh, conflicting opinions but all good advise/opinions! Well. It's my passion Cisco . Not a toy, to me. It's my thing. I'm in love with sailing. Only new to it though but I've been dreaming of it since I was a kid- no joke. I want to sail efficiently.
Im gonna practice next week in weather. I'll set up the #3 on the lower foot, and raise the number 2. Sail. No AP SO I'll use the tiller sheet self steer FOR A SAIL CHANGe. drop the 2, using an attached line going back to cockpit to assist in pulling the jib down. once down, move forward, put halyard in #3 , remove #2 from stay, throw below, or secure on foredeck(netting in lifelines, bungies to secure.) move back to cockpit., raise number 3.
this should be fairly quick. Interested to try.

FreeRadical
WA, 855 posts
2 Jun 2016 11:52PM
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Coming down the west coast on our delivery, a reefed/furled 110% headsail was pretty crap when trying to make decent headway in 25-30+. Setting the storm jib (only other sail choice) proved way more successful in getting a good sail trim that gave enough drive against the swell but not too much pounding or overpower.

Ideally we will likely go 3 headsails for races/performance but keep the furler for everyday cruising use or when we couldn't be bothered changing sails.

We have a furlex 300, which is easy to drop the swivel and then use it as a racing foil for different sails.

Ramona
NSW, 7572 posts
3 Jun 2016 8:17AM
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Sectorsteve said..
Ohhh, conflicting opinions but all good advise/opinions! Well. It's my passion Cisco . Not a toy, to me. It's my thing. I'm in love with sailing. Only new to it though but I've been dreaming of it since I was a kid- no joke. I want to sail efficiently.
Im gonna practice next week in weather. I'll set up the #3 on the lower foot, and raise the number 2. Sail. No AP SO I'll use the tiller sheet self steer FOR A SAIL CHANGe. drop the 2, using an attached line going back to cockpit to assist in pulling the jib down. once down, move forward, put halyard in #3 , remove #2 from stay, throw below, or secure on foredeck(netting in lifelines, bungies to secure.) move back to cockpit., raise number 3.
this should be fairly quick. Interested to try.


On my last yacht I had hanked on headsails [M&W26]. Often sailing down the river to the heads I would have to change down from No1 to No2 singlehanded. Smooth water and often dodging amateur fishermen. I vowed then the next boat would have a proper furling headsail. Small lightweight yachts will benefit most from a furler. If your solo and up the foredeck on your knees this has quite an effect on trim.
I can drop my furler and use a top selection of headsails on my twin foil but I doubt whether those sails will see the light of day again.

Don't go too big on the furling headsail. A well cut No2 with a padded luff will be all that's needed.

rumblefish
TAS, 824 posts
3 Jun 2016 8:31AM
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Ramona said..

A well cut No2 with a padded luff will be all that's needed.



I disagree, a quality furler with a tack swivel and a well cut sail will not need a padded luff at all

PhoenixStar
QLD, 477 posts
3 Jun 2016 8:58AM
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rumblefish said..
Ramona said..

A well cut No2 with a padded luff will be all that's needed.



I disagree, a quality furler with a tack swivel and a well cut sail will not need a padded luff at all


A cheap but effective alternative to a plastic padded luff I used on an existing headsail was to get a pocket sewn near the luff, then threaded in a tapered length of rope and secured it top and bottom. Worked just fine.

Datawiz
VIC, 605 posts
3 Jun 2016 9:01AM
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PhoenixStar said..

rumblefish said..

Ramona said..


A well cut No2 with a padded luff will be all that's needed.




I disagree, a quality furler with a tack swivel and a well cut sail will not need a padded luff at all



A cheap but effective alternative to a plastic padded luff I used on an existing headsail was to get a pocket sewn near the luff, then threaded in a tapered length of rope and secured it top and bottom. Worked just fine.


Sounds interesting Phoenix, could you expand on the details a bit?
regards,
allan

scruzin
SA, 509 posts
3 Jun 2016 8:53AM
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Chris 249 said..
With the greatest of respect to those who feel otherwise, I'll go with those who say that going up to the foredeck is not dangerous. Who can tell us the last time that anyone went overboard off a foredeck? When we are racing we run (literally) around them with no issues, and of course when necessary we crawl around them with no issues. As someone has already noted, you can always just lie ahull to stop the boat while changing sails.

You can also rig a downhaul line from the head of the jib, leading to a block at the base of the forestay, so you can pull it down from the cockpit. If the sheet is fairly tight and the boat is close enough to head to wind, the jib will normally fall inside the lifelines.

Personally I've had a racing style headfoil on my boat for (gulp) about 25 years. It's getting beaten up at the bottom but if it goes I'll just put another headfoil on. I find it actually more convenient than hanks because you just have to clip the halyard and tack line on; no playing with pistons. I know SS won't go that way but IMHO it just shows how many different but valid approaches there are.

For bigger boats I'm very impressed with my brother's fractional rig cutter - a roller furling genoa and a hanked on staysail for when it gets windy. Very simple and efficient, and you don't have the problem of trying to get upwind in big breeze with a big bag of rolled sail interfering with the efficiency of the headsail.



It is not so much that it is inherently dangerous, so much as it poses an incremental risk, esp. when sailing single handed. Of course, being tethered in mitigates the risk, but why incur yer another risk?

I do a lot of single-handed sailing and I'm firmly in the headsail furler camp. I also bring all my lines back to helm, including the main halyard, so no need - ever - to go up front when under way. With this setup have the confidence to cross rough passages, such as Backstairs Passage, single handed.

Sectorsteve
QLD, 2195 posts
3 Jun 2016 9:25AM
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HG02 said..
On page 8 of the pdf you will see the foil pack
The base foil is a meter long then you need to measure your forestay to work out how long you need your foil and purchase it at least get a price
as you can see in page 8 there are two longer lengths a 2 meter and also a 2.4 it all depends on how long your genoa is.
Almast or where ever you end up getting a price should advise you

So you need a foil pack and a 5 mm sta lok wedge and then a bolt rope fitted to your sail.
If your forestay rigging wire is not 5 mm it will be to expensive to use this furlex . Ive been through the costing


id say my forestay rigging is around 8mm. ill check, but all the rigging, wire is thick on this boat.

HG02
VIC, 5814 posts
3 Jun 2016 9:48AM
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mine was 8 mm I would have thought your forestay diameter would be around 5 mm
this furler I have suits only 5 mm


To buy the parts to alter it to a different size is to expensive I've costed it out for my boat

twodogs1969
NSW, 1000 posts
3 Jun 2016 9:53AM
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With the thoughts on going forward i really don't see how you totally avoid it. Given most of you would hardly ever carry a spinnaker while cruising you don't need to go for that but what about poling out the headsail?

PhoenixStar
QLD, 477 posts
3 Jun 2016 10:02AM
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Datawiz said..
PhoenixStar said..

rumblefish said..

Ramona said..


A well cut No2 with a padded luff will be all that's needed.




I disagree, a quality furler with a tack swivel and a well cut sail will not need a padded luff at all



A cheap but effective alternative to a plastic padded luff I used on an existing headsail was to get a pocket sewn near the luff, then threaded in a tapered length of rope and secured it top and bottom. Worked just fine.


Sounds interesting Phoenix, could you expand on the details a bit?
regards,
allan


A few years ago now, but Gary Martin did the job when he was still a sail maker. He sewed a pocket about 50 mm wide behind the luff rope and left a mouse in the pocket. We tapered a length of 3 strand silver rope by cutting off first one then two strands and teasing out the ends of the strands a little, then did a sewn whipping to secure the strand ends to the bulk of the rope. The top of the rope started about 2 1/2 meters down from the head and the bottom was about a meter up from the foot. The rope was pulled in with the mouse and the mouse secured to the head cringle and tensioned the rope at the foot as well. The bulk of the padding was about where the mitre seam would be (but this sail was not mitre cut) and it was on the inside of the furling direction. Actually easier to do than explain.If you were strapped for funds you might be able to reproduce the effect by hand sewing a tapered rope externally.

Yara
NSW, 1273 posts
3 Jun 2016 11:26AM
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This is a classic topic with everybody's opinions based on their personal experience.

My personal experience of a jammed furler and the jib violently shaking the the forestay and the boat as the wind howled, put me off them. But then it was a simple trailer-sailer furler, not a reefer, and the type where the halliard is trapped under the furled sail.

Assuming a perfect reefer type, with an external halliard, if it is say on a 110 or 120% jib, the cloth for efficiency should be selected for the wind strength for that size jib. Then when reefed, the wind strength is likely to be damaging to the sail. So you have to select a heavier cloth, which may not work as well in light winds. Then also, when working with a deep reef, the leading edge big luff roll is not going to be efficient.

Of course, the cutter rigged system with a heavier smaller sail on the inner forestay is the ideal system. However, the mast and hull needs to be set up for a cutter rig, and it is not easy to convert to cutter rig from a standard sloop.

So I am thinking, maybe the best solution would be to also have say, a heavier circa 80% jib to change to, which will be more efficient in heavy weather when you need that fore sail furled to say a 50% jib.

With hanks you can lower the jib and it is still controlled at the luff while you fold or roll it up, and bag.
Changing a sail in a furler track IMHO is more difficult, as you cannot bag the sail until it is fully out of the track. Enter those clever New Zealanders, who have a thing called the Kiwi slide. reefrite-na.com/kiwi-slides/kiwi-slide-details/ So now you can still have the furler, but also the advantages of a hanked-on sail.

cisco
QLD, 12327 posts
3 Jun 2016 1:29PM
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+1 Yara

My main objection to furlers is that I have not found one yet where it is not slow and difficult to change sails despite gallons of silicon sprayed on the bolt rope and track.

With my furler which is a Furlex I believe (name sticker gone ages ago), changing head sails while under way is not really viable especially in heavy conditions. It also has an issue of fouling the other halliard at the top.

Those Kiwi Slides are a top idea and give you the best of both worlds.

The undeniable advantage of a furler is that you can get rid of sail area very quickly.

shaggybaxter
QLD, 2532 posts
3 Jun 2016 2:06PM
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I love the speed of a furler in reducing sail. Our headsail is 50m2, and you bear off to anywhere near 120 and it takes seconds to furl. I never reef furl, its either out or in.

To change down gears and still create drive, we attach the inner forestay, which uses hanked sails. This gives me flexibility in sail size, ie: you could pick on a class boat like etchells where there is a lot of 2nd hand sails on the market.
Thinking out loud here.... our inner forestay is dyneema, it is hard fixed on the mast and tensioned from the deck. To my simple brain, it appears to be something that would be easy to retrofit to a yacht without a inner forestay? You could run the halyard external through a low friction ring (lashed to the same hardpoint) if you didn't want to enter the mast on a 25'ter.

I understand it wouldn't suit all boats, but it seems like such a force multiplier it might be worth considering? Best of both worlds?

Edit: you can see the headsail furler in the background after we finished fitting it onto the forestay.
[URL= .html]

seabird
QLD, 227 posts
3 Jun 2016 3:12PM
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To change down gears and still create drive, we attach the inner forestay, which uses hanked sails. This gives me flexibility in sail size, ie: you could pick on a class boat like etchells where there is a lot of 2nd hand sails on the market.

Shaggy or anyone else need a small hanked etchell sail I've got one in my garage In good condition I'd like to get rid. Box of beer and it's yours.

Jedibrad
NSW, 527 posts
3 Jun 2016 3:39PM
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I had a furler on my cat, but when really windy it sailed like a dog with the all but rolled up jib

I tried once to slide on a storm jib in a storm up the foil by myself, things got bad...

so it was hanks for me

also to sail with a rolled up jib you'll need very different sheeting points, this needs consideration and $$

shaggybaxter
QLD, 2532 posts
3 Jun 2016 4:06PM
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seabird said..
To change down gears and still create drive, we attach the inner forestay, which uses hanked sails. This gives me flexibility in sail size, ie: you could pick on a class boat like etchells where there is a lot of 2nd hand sails on the market.

Shaggy or anyone else need a small hanked etchell sail I've got one in my garage In good condition I'd like to get rid. Box of beer and it's yours.


Hi Seabird,
I have a max luff length of 10mtrs, foot length of 3mtrs, the existing staysail is total 26.5m2. From memory, an Etchells headsail m2 is approx that, do you know it's luff/foot length?

scruzin
SA, 509 posts
3 Jun 2016 3:55PM
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twodogs1969 said..
With the thoughts on going forward i really don't see how you totally avoid it. Given most of you would hardly ever carry a spinnaker while cruising you don't need to go for that but what about poling out the headsail?


Owning a cat, I don't bother with poles. My workhorse headsail is my gennaker, a.k.a. "screecher, " a furled, flying sail I use between 60° and 120° to the wind.

seabird
QLD, 227 posts
3 Jun 2016 4:45PM
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Shaggybaxter said..


seabird said..
To change down gears and still create drive, we attach the inner forestay, which uses hanked sails. This gives me flexibility in sail size, ie: you could pick on a class boat like etchells where there is a lot of 2nd hand sails on the market.

Shaggy or anyone else need a small hanked etchell sail I've got one in my garage In good condition I'd like to get rid. Box of beer and it's yours.




Hi Seabird,
I have a max luff length of 10mtrs, foot length of 3mtrs, the existing staysail is total 26.5m2. From memory, an Etchells headsail m2 is approx that, do you know it's luff/foot length?



Shaggy,
Luff 7.6m. Foot 2.6m
Note the Hank's are clip on rather than piston, not sure how they would go in strong winds.







shaggybaxter
QLD, 2532 posts
3 Jun 2016 4:50PM
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Hi Seabird,
That would make a really good number 2.5 headsail on a Sonata 26/8/760 as well.
Paging Selkie....deal in aisle 3 from Seabird....

Sectorsteve
QLD, 2195 posts
3 Jun 2016 5:23PM
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Will check on Monday hg...my boats over rigged.. I'm almost certain the stays are bigger than 5mm

Chris 249
NSW, 3337 posts
3 Jun 2016 9:02PM
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Ok...

With respect (as noted earlier) to those with different views and experiences, it doesn't seem that foredeck work is or should be that dangerous. Yes, some people have had trouble. My sympathies to LMY but I don't know the circs. The guy in the vid from NZ seemed to be being very casual and it's obvious that the casual way one behaves while messing around before a pre-start in the harbour is not the way one behaves offshore. If you're going to be that careless then you're just as likely to get smacked in the head by the boom if you stay in the cockpit.......

I was going to ask whether anyone has heard of any fatalities through going off a foredeck, but that seemed macabre. However, I don't think I've ever heard of such a case and based on that and years of practise, it seems that it's not actually dangerous. Yes, incidents can happen but people die in the bath or by falling off dinner chairs too. If going onto a foredeck has not resulted in deaths that we can recall it does not seem to be "dangerous" by most definitions. My dad (a champion in a couple of classes) was killed having a social race inshore, as have quite a few others - are inshore social races "dangerous"?

Surely foredeck work is like many other things - the danger is related to how practised one is. If you've spent lots of time practising headsail changes then it's not difficult or dangerous. You automatically sit down when you should, you have the boat set up so you can take the halyard to the bow and feed it down as you drop the sail, you have your jacklines and double harness straps, and most of all you've just practised. And personally, I think it's fun!

As an analogy, try sailing a Laser fast around a short course in 20 knots of breeze. Even experienced sailors who have never sailed a Laser or dinghy will normally capsize and may say it's dangerous, but a trained Laser sailor will just go fast and have fun. Hell, look at backwards walkovers - if I tried to do one I'd say it's dangerous 'cause I'd fall on my bald patch slightly thinning skull, but my daughter was doing them in gym all the time.

Whether any person reckons the possibility of getting wet from the spray up front is worth it is a personal issue. For me it is, 'cause I prefer the feeling of the boat when it's sailing well. As others have noted, roller furlers aren't normally all that quick. They tend to have inherent sheeting angle problems unless you go forward anyway. My first boat was as fast as a Top Hat and I really wanted to get it going as fast as possible, because it's a long way between ports when your average speed is pretty low. A long punch upwind with a poorly set furling headsail would be a painful experience IMHO, but that's just me.

The question was not "what is the ideal setup" but are furling headsails NEEDED for cruising. They're not, as proven by the number of people who have cruised without them.

I'm not having a go at anyone, just pointing out that it's very much a personal choice based on a huge variety of factors. I can completely understand those who love their furlers and feel they are invaluable.


PS - MB, I know you know your stuff. I might just say that for the last few years all of my coastal passages (which have all been pretty short) have all been either singlehanded or doublehanded. The last year I did serious offshore stuff, there were only five or six of us, so it's not a case of having 10 guys all ready to go. In many ways smaller boats are probably easier for foredeck work - you're highly unlikely to get blown over the side by a headsail on a 28 footer, for example.


Chris 249
NSW, 3337 posts
3 Jun 2016 9:05PM
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Shaggybaxter said..
Hi Seabird,
That would make a really good number 2.5 headsail on a Sonata 26/8/760 as well.
Paging Selkie....deal in aisle 3 from Seabird....



I used to use an Etchells jib as a #4 on a light 28'er. It wasn't bad for that. Eggshells have a fair bit of luff sag and have pretty flat sails so although the cloth is a bit light in some ways, the jibs can set quite well. They would, as you say, work well on a Sonata but the clew may have to be lifted. From my experience, it doesn't affect the shape much.

Ramona
NSW, 7572 posts
4 Jun 2016 8:42AM
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PhoenixStar said..

rumblefish said..

Ramona said..


A well cut No2 with a padded luff will be all that's needed.




I disagree, a quality furler with a tack swivel and a well cut sail will not need a padded luff at all



A cheap but effective alternative to a plastic padded luff I used on an existing headsail was to get a pocket sewn near the luff, then threaded in a tapered length of rope and secured it top and bottom. Worked just fine.


This is what I have on my headsail and it's very effective.

Sectorsteve
QLD, 2195 posts
6 Jun 2016 1:23PM
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Bushdog said..
If you're sailing solo, hanking on the headsail is possible, but a furler will be safer and give you more confidence. You can't stow a hanked on headsail without going forward. If you drop it in heavy winds and it goes in over the side, with sheets tangled... Get a furler. I got an Alado for a 27 footer, relatively inexpensive, DIY installation, and bullet proof. Keep in mind you'll need to modify your existing headsails or grab a second hand one with bolt rope.


hey mate just looking at these alado reefer furlers. looks good. wondering what size you went with for your boat?

Ramona
NSW, 7572 posts
6 Jun 2016 5:57PM
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Sectorsteve said..

Bushdog said..
If you're sailing solo, hanking on the headsail is possible, but a furler will be safer and give you more confidence. You can't stow a hanked on headsail without going forward. If you drop it in heavy winds and it goes in over the side, with sheets tangled... Get a furler. I got an Alado for a 27 footer, relatively inexpensive, DIY installation, and bullet proof. Keep in mind you'll need to modify your existing headsails or grab a second hand one with bolt rope.



hey mate just looking at these alado reefer furlers. looks good. wondering what size you went with for your boat?


That boat up on the mud at the end of my street has an Alado furler. The halyard comes down to the furler drum from the top of the foil. Looks an OK piece of kit though the foil in this case is round and looks a bit big.



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"Headsail furlers. Are they needed for cruising?" started by Sectorsteve