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Did my cockpit table with some "Glass Finish"
I was in a hurry to get it back on the boat for xmas & rubbed back the varnish too early & stuffed it up. have to do heaps more sanding after xmas now!!
I'll drop by some time Lazza and you can do mine 
where can you buy those bad boys spikes from Lazza?
found some on ebay
Previous owners ripped out the wiring in the mast when replacing the halyards. After a failed attempt a few months ago we finally got the new stuff run up there and he wired up the existing masthead light which he says looks in ok condition and the bulb is not blown. Fingers crossed as we forgot to take out the multimeter to test it. Couldn't finish the job as has to take the ankle biters on board with us and they have little patience for such times. Also got down the jib halyard block while he was up there. Now been replaced after a trip to Whitworths. So hopefully come Thursday it will be last trip up the mast for a while and our little boat will be fully functional again. Think its been a long time since it was yhst, long before we owned it anyway.
I very been contemplating this steering option before I started
As I was not overjoyed how the pedestal sectioned off the cockpit into two parts
I went back to my original idea before some said it would be better how I had it
But I wasn't happy so I've set it up to give me full cockpit area and I'm happy how it's turned out
I'll fit a stern rail seat so I can still sit behind it if I want
Geez HG that really is a dilemma. As it sits now you will find it difficult to see what's in the binnacle unless you are behind it, but the engine controls are about 1.5 metres in front of the wheel! if you're sitting in front you're reaching backwards(and you may need to look back at the wheel to grab it, engine controls still not ideally placed…when all the action is going to be happening at the front)…much easier to stand behind a more centralised wheel with a clear view ahead.
Whats the problem with a 'divided' cockpit, are you intending to have lots of big parties in that cockpit?
Hi HG, it does not make for a comfortable helming position when sailing. You rarely sit behind the wheel when sailing a mono hull. You tend to stand or sit on the upwind side of the wheel (more comfortable and better visibility) neither of which you can do. With a wheel that low your back will kill you, unless your 4 foot tall. I think you will be very sorry in a very short time, so make sure you have the ability to change it later. You also need the gear shift / throttle beside you at the wheel for mooring the boat. Where you have everything would be totally unworkable.
99 % of the time Ill run the autopilot and sit on the stern rail seat .
Im hoping to be the sheet hand see how it goes
I bought this USB fan from the local Frankston discount store $8.00 it move a modest amount of air nothing like whats in the Cat Graders but for $8 it's ok
see how it goes
see how it goes
see how it goes
. Certainly not for a nervous nelly type with hands on the wheel at all times fixed at 10 to 2.
I have 5 of these on my boat!!
I leave 2 going 24/7 when I am moored & not aboard to keep the air flowing through - works great.
There's a third option
This size boat the wheel position is not a problem. I would not have bothered with the compass binnacle. I use a bulkhead compass with a cover over it. I took the cover off a few weeks ago to make sure the compass was still there. I realized I probably had not used it for a couple of years. For coastal cruising you would rarely be near the wheel and would be using the plotter screen for your course. Have the screen over the nav table so it's visible to you while seated alongside/front of the wheel, obviously if it's a big screen you will only see it on one side from the rear of the cockpit. Mount turning blocks on one side for the windvane control lines to the front of the wheel and the other side the course set controls. After awhile you will find you rarely venture behind the steering wheel and it gets used more like a tiller.
Last haul out I fitted a shim made out of a beer can . When you have the rudder tied down on a swing mooring the rudder tends to make a knocking noise from excessive clearance. between the rudder shaft and the bronze pintal
So while the boats on the hard I mixed a brew of E glue and wrapped some plastic around the shaft to add clearance and when it's removed tomorrow.
I put plastic between the two pintal so they won't stick together when disassembled tomorrow after the e Glue goes off also . and took up the slack there was a slight variation on the bronze pintal hole angle and the rudder shaft also so the E glue will take up the slack on that also.
The hole in the bronze pintal had a few casting pockets in it as well so this will take them out. Ill remove it tomorrow and sand it up and give the rudder shaft clearance. Last time I anti fouled I we fitted a shim made out a beer can to take the noise out
fared up the bottom of the keel still a little to do there Ill finish it tomorrow a little sun burnt on my back so was a bit unpleasant sanding down there today.
Once the keels dones its roll the last coat of barrier coat on and antifoul.
As the mast going on shortly as well I'm trying to decide if it could go on while the boats on the hard and while the cranes there move the wooden block support the hull under the keel and barrier coat and anti foul and put her in the water a couple of days later after fitting the furler.
Think I'll go with that.
I'm so looking forward to you finishing this boat and going for a sail HG.
You've done a marvellous job mate. Happy New Year to you.
I really wish you hadn't got that Sarca HG02. The absolute worst anchor inflicted on the boating public. So sue me.
