The Excell is a plow and it will do that very well. I use a home built SS version of an ultra. The ultra is virtually a spade with a rocna dimensioned shank but hollow. The hollow shank and the lead filled pointed blade ensures the anchor hits the bottom perfectly every time. I think my total weight is 11 kilos with 3 kilos of that as lead in the tip.
Years ago I used a homemade SS fixed shank plow anchor on my fishing vessel. It was lead filled too but after lots of testing I fitted the rear fins to reduce the plowing and help it move upright to set. A few years later the excell appeared hence my comment above about designing. There is very little that's new in anchors.
Ive caught it in time ordered a rocna vulcan
I got lost on the pedestal 
its gone for good. After a few PMs with Phoenix star
I am going to fit a bypass valve to the hydrive cylinder so I can use the tiller. and remove the pedestal altogether
out of the cockpit .
The main purpose of fitting the hydraulic cylinder for me was to obtain a hydraulic autopilot .Which will still happen.
The helm unit I was going to abandon and just fit a reservoir but after a good night sleep will be relocated adjacent to the cabin entrance on the port side. and when needed fit the wheel other than that I'll use the original tiller and fit a bypass valve using a ball valve close the the cylinder .
I'll make a wooden cover for the shaft for the helm unit so it's hidden and out of the weather.
If I find to much friction from the cylinder when using the bypass valve for the tiller Ill make a quick release bolt to the cylinder end can be taken off the rudder much the same as the way we use a ST2000.
Ill make or Phil at fleming marine if he's not to busy a pivoting tiller off what I have now.
I guess that's why I refitted the throttle /gear shift back in its original hole a few days ago 
as my X wife once said Ch#t happens 
and we are both glad it did
otherwise I wouldn't be on the forum or wasting time on my bucket of snot
So I'll make a U section in stainless that can pivot off the tiller bracket in the photo and mount my wooden tiller off that.
when not in use the tiller can be stood upright and out of the way
Not today but over the last month Time After Time got a new set of windows. Gone are the old framed crazed ones and in place I have used a medium smoke acrylic held in place with Fixtech 200.
The hard jobs were removing the old acrylic in 1 piece whatever the previous polyurethane was it did a great job. It showed that the permanent use of screws is not necessary and just induces cracks.
I actually like the old school frames but they are much the worse for wear, who knows maybe they'll be trendy again so I've stored them with my tartan jacket.
Hassles were obviously the cleaning and secondly the plastic shop cut them slightly too large which in a busy schedule of things other than boat threw me out nearly a week.
I was tempted to do the big windows in just 1 piece but didn't trust myself that I could get it in easily, the other being holding it in place and clamping particularly the center of the boat frame.
The small hull window I was really tempted to replace with a hatch because the windows never touch water even at maximum heal and I am very conscientious of locking down to get underway. In the end prudence was sitting on my shoulder so I held off and I'm not sure how much improvement in airflow they would make.
Things I learnt was well the whole job it's the 1st time I've ever done it but mainly let the fixtech dry and then any mistakes can be removed. I glued the windows in and then filled the edges then trimmed any spots.
On close inspection I can see every mistake but I think they are much better than the old ones. The cracked ones are gone and no leaks!
Looks fantastic Slammin - a real improvement!!
My job today wasn't so glamorous!!
I decided to put a new float switch in the shower sump so I cleaned all the hair out of the filter while I had it apart. The toilet was very handy to dump the hair instead of in the bin, BIG mistake!!
The hair just wrapped around the macerator so that it stopped pumping 
It really wasn't that much hair.
All fixed now without too many dramas 
Oh Lazzz that's exactly what I would of done too.
Cheers HG it's just a slap on job compared to yours so I really appreciate your comment.
Select to expand quoteslammin said..
Oh Lazzz that's exactly what I would of done too.
Cheers HG it's just a slap on job compared to yours so I really appreciate your comment.
well here's a slap on job Slamin glad it's over early start and home 4.20m pm getting warm.
sand under the water line roll on a coat of barrier coat and when it was tack dry rolled the antifoul on
take it off roll it on take it off roll it on take it off roll it on 
So glad thats over with maybe it will hit the water next week
. she needs a good drink poor old girl its the couch for me and a power nap
Thanks Guys
You should see Jabberwock shes had a new dress above the water line a beautiful spray job .
Looks schmick HG. Very very nice.
I got yet more little jobs done today. Mounted the BCF Ronstan sellout cheek blocks for the headsail sheets. Cut the bolts that protude into the cabin from the cheek blocks and mount cap nuts plus a half dozen other sundry bolts that were sticking out. Mounted an extra set of speakers. Tidied up the edging on the cabin windows.
Tried to replace the last 2 of my old turnbuckles but they don't fit. They say 5/16 the originals I think are 5/16 but they only turn 3/4 of a thread. Luckily the shop sized them so back to town I go. I'm wondering f they are 5/16 but different thread????
Also did the Windrush 14 Cat trailer bearings and packed it up for a few days down at Etty Bay. AN amazing place that would be worth a visit if anybody is in the area.
Hi All.
I have just bought a 1980 Endeavour 26.
Stripped right down for racing.
I will be doing some bush modifications, so it is better for cruising.
Current project was making 2 padded seats for the Pushpit. Cushions requested by the wife!!
As you can see I am not an upholsterer!
I wanted to fit them this avo, but too windy. Will do it early in the morning. They will just sit on the rail so I can put them away.
Made the base from plastic. I measured and cut them.
Had the foam cut at Clark Rubber.
Marine vinyl from Clark Rubber also.
Gal leg from Bunnings and rubber gym mat for the base of the leg.
Hope they work!!
fitted the prop loctited and a nyloc I'll fit a split pin tomorrow and a anode and did some more deck paint and ended up in the engine bay tidying up a few things in there
Forgot my phone replaced all the fuel lines and double clamped every thing fitted my bleed hose for the PSS seal and started tidying up when the steering cylinder mounts . I was going to drop it in the water during the week but Ill wait till the following week gives me a bit more time and the rigger also.
Plus Phil at Fleming marine might get off the beach and go back to work 
fitted up my mast head nav light to my old original bracket which has been made to attached with a couple of s/s 6 mm bolts
'Scuse I HG, but shouldn't one use a castellated nut to fit a split pin through ??.........just checkin'.
Select to expand quotesamsturdy said..
'Scuse I HG, but shouldn't one use a castellated nut to fit a split pin through ??.........just checkin'.
Its it has high strength loctite and has a nyloc nut Sam will have a split pin but only as a precaution on the end of the shaft I'd have well over
400 ft lbs tension on that nut sam. she's not going anywhere
Unless you shim exactly for the castellated nut with good tension on the prop shaft hole lines up I'm happy with what I've done.
she won't move it's all choices and this is mine Ive never had as nut come undone in over 40 years of spinning them
For me to remove that prop nut I'd have to heat the nut first to soften the loctite
I used a block of wood sitting on the ground with the prop blade on the other end and a powerbar plus my rigger tamer which is a meter long gal pipe
only joking
The shrinking frigwas 175 litres with eutectic plate and engine driven compressor
nor workingdubious decision to reduce size of frig and get Engel
underestimated time and skill required and overestimated my time and skills
getting there slowlingfun though prefer sailing
padding 50 mm poly ISO insulation all around then fibreglassing in
then painting see what I mean !
Scaramouche
Is it possible to just replace an engine driven compressor with an electric one.
I presently have an engine driven Eutectic fridge I spent a lot getting it running but hate the fact if I am only onboard for the day or even over night I have to run the engine so long to cool the fridge down. Was thinking if anything goes wrong I would like to replace with an electric compressor.
Tiller done just need to make the quick release for the tiller ram
Main sail about ready and the mast up soon
Select to expand quotetwodogs1969 said..
Scaramouche
Is it possible to just replace an engine driven compressor with an electric one.
I presently have an engine driven Eutectic fridge I spent a lot getting it running but hate the fact if I am only onboard for the day or even over night I have to run the engine so long to cool the fridge down. Was thinking if anything goes wrong I would like to replace with an electric compressor.
Mate, the 12 volt tech has come a long way. You are better off converting from engine driven to 12 volt with a dedicated battery and a solar panel feeding it. Or you could get an EvaKool or ???????? Lots of alternatives. Have a look at the OzeFridge. Heard good reports on it.
Select to expand quotecisco said..twodogs1969 said..
Scaramouche
Is it possible to just replace an engine driven compressor with an electric one.
I presently have an engine driven Eutectic fridge I spent a lot getting it running but hate the fact if I am only onboard for the day or even over night I have to run the engine so long to cool the fridge down. Was thinking if anything goes wrong I would like to replace with an electric compressor.
Mate, the 12 volt tech has come a long way. You are better off converting from engine driven to 12 volt with a dedicated battery and a solar panel feeding it. Or you could get an EvaKool or ???????? Lots of alternatives. Have a look at the OzeFridge. Heard good reports on it.
Got an OZfrig, great but realise that it is eutectic, so no chance of a freezer unless you set it up as one, if you do then it's not a frig.
Select to expand quotePhoenixStar said..cisco said..twodogs1969 said..
Scaramouche
Is it possible to just replace an engine driven compressor with an electric one.
I presently have an engine driven Eutectic fridge I spent a lot getting it running but hate the fact if I am only onboard for the day or even over night I have to run the engine so long to cool the fridge down. Was thinking if anything goes wrong I would like to replace with an electric compressor.
Mate, the 12 volt tech has come a long way. You are better off converting from engine driven to 12 volt with a dedicated battery and a solar panel feeding it. Or you could get an EvaKool or ???????? Lots of alternatives. Have a look at the OzeFridge. Heard good reports on it.
Got an OZfrig, great but realise that it is eutectic, so no chance of a freezer unless you set it up as one, if you do then it's not a frig.
If you go the ozfrig way I suggest you get the water cooled version, it uses the water from your onboard supply, no salt water involved.
My ozefridge is air cooled and runs two plates very well . The good thing about ozefridge is it is built locally and when you ring them you are speaking to the bloke that builds them.
Select to expand quotePhoenixStar said..PhoenixStar said..cisco said..twodogs1969 said..
Scaramouche
Is it possible to just replace an engine driven compressor with an electric one.
I presently have an engine driven Eutectic fridge I spent a lot getting it running but hate the fact if I am only onboard for the day or even over night I have to run the engine so long to cool the fridge down. Was thinking if anything goes wrong I would like to replace with an electric compressor.
Mate, the 12 volt tech has come a long way. You are better off converting from engine driven to 12 volt with a dedicated battery and a solar panel feeding it. Or you could get an EvaKool or ???????? Lots of alternatives. Have a look at the OzeFridge. Heard good reports on it.
Got an OZfrig, great but realise that it is eutectic, so no chance of a freezer unless you set it up as one, if you do then it's not a frig.
If you go the ozfrig way I suggest you get the water cooled version, it uses the water from your onboard supply, no salt water involved.
The water cooled version could also be used for hot water preheating if it was hose up ok.
using the heat off the cooling system to preheat your hot water system ,you would be surprised how it would help
There is nothing wrong with the engine driven compressor I have now and I am not looking to replace the whole system. Was just wondering if you can replace an engine driven compressor with an electric one while keeping the rest of the system.
I don't think it is viable or even possible. The engine driven compressor probably take a horsepower or two which the rest of the system will require.
For a definitive answer ask a fridgespert.
Just to clarify, does an engine driven compressor have a physical link with the engine, i.e. a shaft, or does it get 'driven' by an alternator off the motor? If the latter, then it should be possible to replace the electrical input with any other source, surely??
