The rigger put a t-ball swage fitting in the mast to take the stay and a sheave box underneath so the halyard runs back down inside the mast. I had a spare exit point at the base. If you have a spare spin halyard perhaps you could lead that down the mast and around an eye of some sort. I could have done that but didn't think of it at the time.
I'm not really sure what you are trying to achieve here DrRog. The Adams 31 is dimensionally similar to my Currawong and I have a double spreader rig as well. I am thinking you are looking for a way to rig a storm sail and not use your headsail. I'm a little adverse to wandering up the foredeck in crappy conditions and I think its something to be avoided in small boats. I do have a staysail that came with my boat but its meant for flying under the spinnaker when reaching. I have several strong points on the foredeck and the topping lift is used as the halyard. I have made a storm sail that I cut and stitched up to be used from the same points. In use I found that it was a hassle and only able to close reach. It would be OK for reaching up and down the coast inshore during a howling Westerly but a lot of bother.
Instead i would suggest a third reef in the main. Not sure what the sail area is I have when down to the third reef but its about the same as a laser sail. There is no need to leave the cockpit. The sail is already bent on. You can sail about the same height and you can use about 2 feet of headsail if you want to for balance.
Yachts that race in the Hobart have to carry storm sails and demonstrate their use before each race. However when you see photos of these yachts in storm conditions a fair few of them sail bare headed and with a heavily reefed mainsail only.
I would do some experimenting with what you have already before adding more stuff.
I should add that my yacht sails well with the mainsail stowed and the lazy jacks hauled tight in gale conditions on a reach!
Hey Ramona, The basic purpose is to hank on a jib when the wind gets too strong for my 155%+ genoa. It is a lovely sail but when partially furled it is ugly to windward. I didn't take a photo of this because I don't yet have a hanked jib. I'm trying to organise one to try so I can see how practical this is. I thought this would be better than going down the foam luff route; more sail options, better sail shape, redundancy, etc. And better than me pulling down a large genoa, esp. when the wind gets up.
I have a hanked storm sail as shown so I thought this would be useful also. Good to hear your experience sailing in heavier conditions with a similar boat. I do have a main with 3 reefs.
"I should add that my yacht sails well with the mainsail stowed and the lazy jacks hauled tight in gale conditions on a reach!" - That is pretty funny. :)
Rog, come and have another look at mine.
That cleat will be strengthened to take loads fore and aft. If you intend using it in strong winds it is likely to break or pull out of the deck.
Having the tack that far forward you will have to furl all the way in to tack. Suggest you move it aft and put a strong point in to take a vertical load. 800kg shackle, I doubt the cleat can take that vertically.
I really like mine but the tacking is a hassle.
Yeah, I realise you were being serious - I just think sailing under lazy jacks is a funny image.
Thanks for the tips on options for jibs - I was wondering what other options there were.
MB, hmmm... I had assumed that a backplated cleat that size so close to the bow (adjacent to deck-hull joins on two sides) would handle the forces involved and I suppose that Joe Walsh did as well but I guess I will need to have a more critical look at that.
behind the black wooden seagull breeder, is a shredded main sail and it was cracking like a wip dont know when it happened maybe in last nights storm, but that is stuffed. bottom left is my boat went out for hopefully the last time she is such a good boat but time to move on.
Hi, now I can have dinghy on "grany flat roof" and enter without lifting dinghy up. Before I had to lift dinghy to open hinged hatch, no more. Made sliding hatch cover as one pice molding on wooden plug and slide is old hatch.
Good to see an electrical tie for the mousing on the shackle. Pin still Ok? Presume you replaced the chain anyway.
I was down checking my mooring yesterday. I have the usual chain on the bottom and a swivel then rope riser to the deck cleat. At high tide the swivel was just touching the bottom and nicely polished. The problem we get here is a failure of the shackle pin on the shackle to the swivel and as I noticed on another blokes mooring the pin in the swivel eroded away. This is caused mostly by the wrong mousing material but also the differences in the quality of the steels. I have often considered using nylon strops made up so that the eye splice could be looped through the chain underwater. So the chain would be on the bottom, nylon rope to a swivel 2 to 3 feet off the bottom then nylon back up to the deck cleat. Reduce the mixture of steels and separate them.
It bothers me that no one else thinks the same.
Hypothetical for my needs but Donaghy's Aquatec rope is another "new" rope solution. I think the rope with plastic chafe point would be my choice.
Been up and down the mast every day for the past five days lathering on linseed oil. Looking good. Will post a phot when complete, that is if I don't lose her in the coming cyclone!