Select to expand quotesouthace said..
Well you best learn unless your taking your sandwitch maker with you upon your retirement! 
I don't where any thing that needs Ironing South Ace
Select to expand quoteDonk107 said..andy59 said..HG02 said...
Do you know what primer they used jgb1787 ?
No photos but I added another coat to the bowsprit early this morning and then painted out the forward cabin hull sides and refitted the cedar on the hull sides afterwards . Then started making a bed base will also fit the table under the bed in the middle of the forward cabin door so it can slide out when in used and retracted when not being used and under there Ill make some long draws for storage . Ill use all the walk in recess in the forward cabin for draws and table storage .
The forward cabin recess is 1200 deep and the table length is 1200 so it will slide in there nicely
This is an old photo below
Tables that slide away under beds very ingenious Hg
Hi HG
Any progress on the mast step issue on her
Regards Don
I have 4 days off starting Friday which is a couple of showers so thought I might prep it friday seal it up and them if 17 C is ok to mix and cure bote coat Ill lay some matt Saturday
Ill enlarge the area that I will repair past the cable holes and further back Donk. ( stay sail track just in the photo to the left)
What worries me is the temp bote coat will cure I'm not sure but Ill find out its 17 C on Saturday and 18 c Sunday.
Any idea taken on board.
As you can see the crack has ooened up some when it was repair many years ago photo below taken around a week ago
Nearly ready to add the sighn writing and black trim before the last few coats of stain and gloss. Once all the pieces have the correct thickness I will spay the last coat.
I just want to go sailing! 
Select to expand quotesouthace said...
Nearly ready to add the sighn writing and black trim before the last few coats of stain and gloss. Once all the pieces have the correct thickness I will spay the last coat.
I just want to go sailing!
Looks great southace
Select to expand quoteandy59 said..Donk107 said...jgb1787 said..
Lazzarae & HG02 I'll ask my painter at work on Tuesday and see what products he used.
Managed to fit the new mast top this afternoon, apologies the photo is a little dark.
That is a nice looking piece of engineering
Regards Don
Fully agree Don nice work JGB all the work is in the preparation
Thanks Andy! You are correct, all the work is in the prep... but well worth it in the end! Cheers
Select to expand quoteHG02 said..Donk107 said..andy59 said..HG02 said...
Do you know what primer they used jgb1787 ?
No photos but I added another coat to the bowsprit early this morning and then painted out the forward cabin hull sides and refitted the cedar on the hull sides afterwards . Then started making a bed base will also fit the table under the bed in the middle of the forward cabin door so it can slide out when in used and retracted when not being used and under there Ill make some long draws for storage . Ill use all the walk in recess in the forward cabin for draws and table storage .
The forward cabin recess is 1200 deep and the table length is 1200 so it will slide in there nicely
This is an old photo below
Tables that slide away under beds very ingenious Hg
Hi HG
Any progress on the mast step issue on her
Regards Don
I have 4 days off starting Friday which is a couple of showers so thought I might prep it friday seal it up and them if 17 C is ok to mix and cure bote coat Ill lay some matt Saturday
Ill enlarge the area that I will repair past the cable holes and further back Donk. ( stay sail track just in the photo to the left)
What worries me is the temp bote coat will cure I'm not sure but Ill find out its 17 C on Saturday and 18 c Sunday.
Any idea taken on board.
As you can see the crack has ooened up some when it was repair many years ago photo below taken around a week ago
Well I just ground it back the pink bog or what ever it was, was the only thing that was cracked underneath that its solid as, which is good news so Ill now build it up with Bote coat and quad matt. and also fill in the cable holes and also theres a chip out of the hatch souround that Dr Rog kindly pointed out when he was down here
So Ill seal that up while on the job. Just warming my bote coat in the sink making it a little warmer to cure when applied
Hi HG
Good news about the cracks
Where the cracks have extended outside the pink filler and on to the beige cabin top is this still only cracking of the filler under the beige painted surface
aRegards Don
Select to expand quoteDonk107 said..
Hi HG
Good news about the cracks
Where the cracks have extended outside the pink filler and on to the beige cabin top is this still only cracking of the filler under the beige painted surface
aRegards Don
They were just in the pink bog not a sign of any thing under or on the sides the gouge was superficial as well Donk
just above here there was the gouge and grinding it back through the gel coat and it was gone Ive covered the a rectangular either side of the cable glands and past the gouge on the right hand side of the photo.
I came home earlier on to warm up some epoxy and left my phone here so no photos.
The good thing was I bumped some thing on the peir figure and it went into the water . Then could not find my phone all afternoon so thought Id kicked it into the water .
And was hoping all the way home it would be next to the PC and luck for me it was.
My first batch of epoxy turned to crap I warmed the hardener as well not thinking and it went off real quick so I had to through it out and start again.
Ill be painting the non skid on Deck with good qualiety non skid paint with granuals in it its to slippery the way it is so around the mast will get the same treatment
Also fitted my forward cabin bunk bottom on either side still have the small section up near the anchor to do and the walk in which will be easy
Select to expand quotesouthace said..
Nearly finished!
Anyway time to go to work have a good long weekend guys!
Jeez, I've got wood looking at that timber table, SA.
Ho2 you can use plasti bond ( Bunnings) which can be shaped and faired with a file within 10 mins and then coated with epoxy/undercoats, will shorten your job life !
Select to expand quotesouthace said..
Ho2 you can use plasti bond ( Bunnings) which can be shaped and faired with a file within 10 mins and then coated with epoxy/undercoats, will shorten your job life !
Hahahahaha .... Plastibond .... good one SA
Once upon a time our family was the biggest user of plasti bond , polyester/ vinelester ,Carbon fibre and PVC high dencidy foam in Australia ! second was swimming pool manufactures third was the sinking boat manufacturing ....... I do love my plastibond!
faired my mast repair
Removed the stay sail track as Im fitting a furler
Roughly fitted my port and starboard side bunks . Ive the center to do and also the V section forward tomorrow job
wired in one forward cabin light need to tidy the wiring yet and started removing crud out of the main cabin . Ill finish that off in the morning and a quick vacuum inside before I start making more mess tomorrow
Tried to take the flywheel off the Bukh today to find the oil leak but pulled out because I wasn't sure about what I was doing.
HG, I know you have taken yours off so maybe you can help me out. The Allen studs are all in good order and I tried to undo them
with an Allen key of the correct size using a ring spanner to increase leveridge but they would not budge, so I stopped before
I injured something including myself. So what did you use to shift them???. Also how did you stop the flywheel from turning??
I tried jamming a screwdriver between one of the teeth and the starter motor, that might work. I would be very grateful for any tips HG.
Thank you.
Select to expand quotesamsturdy said..
Tried to take the flywheel off the Bukh today to find the oil leak but pulled out because I wasn't sure about what I was doing.
HG, I know you have taken yours off so maybe you can help me out. The Allen studs are all in good order and I tried to undo them
with an Allen key of the correct size using a ring spanner to increase leveridge but they would not budge, so I stopped before
I injured something including myself. So what did you use to shift them???. Also how did you stop the flywheel from turning??
I tried jamming a screwdriver between one of the teeth and the starter motor, that might work. I would be very grateful for any tips HG.
Thank you.
I have a set of socket headed Allen keys, you don't
Id find a pipe a little bit larger than your Allen key and slide in on to the Allen key after you have made sure the Allen key is fully inside the Allen key bolt head which Id use a hammer and tap it home. and lock you're fly wheel with a large screw driver three hand make it easier but two will do if you cant find a volunteer. Remember its the journey not the ending Ok Sam enjoy it
Oh yes the screw drive in the start motor/ fly wheel is what required Sam
Just a question
What is the advantage of having the flywheel on the front of the crankshaft rather than the rear
Regards Don
Select to expand quoteDonk107 said..
Just a question
What is the advantage of having the flywheel on the front of the crankshaft rather than the rear
Regards Don
The start motor on the front Donk < smart arsssssss
Sick as a dog. All I have done in last 2 days besides sleep, cough and watch screens is buy some calico to do a stack pack mock up.
A couple of weeks ago I replaced the corroded jib hanks on the jib HG 'lent' me and put it up so I could see how it fitted. Whatdya think? I think it'll probably work so I'll rip out the corroded / damaged wire and put spectra in the luff instead so it can be folded.
Select to expand quoteHG02 said..Donk107 said..
Just a question
What is the advantage of having the flywheel on the front of the crankshaft rather than the rear
Regards Don
The start motor on the front Donk < smart arsssssss
Hi HG
Is the starter motor access the main advantage
Regards Don
Thanks HG. I guess I just wanted to know that I can get it off by normal means rather than attempt something that needs special tools.
Actually you've jogged My memory HG, I just might have some socket headed Allen keys. I'll have a look first thing tomorrow. Anyway
thanks for the tip mate and I'll look forward to the journey..............I think. I'll let you know How I get on. Thanks again HG.
Select to expand quotesamsturdy said..
Thanks HG. I guess I just wanted to know that I can get it off by normal means rather than attempt something that needs special tools.
Actually you've jogged My memory HG, I just might have some socket headed Allen keys. I'll have a look first thing tomorrow. Anyway
thanks for the tip mate and I'll look forward to the journey..............I think. I'll let you know How I get on. Thanks again HG.
Its not necessary but I alway mark the fly wheel so it goes back on the way it came off so the same crank shaft threaded hole is on the same fly wheel bolt hole
A touch of paint on the crank and on the fly wheel
if you ever need to paint the engine I use delicious red from Bunnings in a spray can
Select to expand quoteHG02 said..samsturdy said..
Thanks HG. I guess I just wanted to know that I can get it off by normal means rather than attempt something that needs special tools.
Actually you've jogged My memory HG, I just might have some socket headed Allen keys. I'll have a look first thing tomorrow. Anyway
thanks for the tip mate and I'll look forward to the journey..............I think. I'll let you know How I get on. Thanks again HG.
Its not necessary but I alway mark the fly wheel so it goes back on the way it came off so the same crank shaft threaded hole is on the same fly wheel bolt hole
A touch of paint on the crank and on the fly wheel
if you ever need to paint the engine I use delicious red from Bunnings in a spray can
Also use some loctite on the threads when refitting not only will it retain the bolts but also stop them justing up like poor old Morning Birds water pump in another thread
This is the rear cabin bulkheads being lifted into place for glueing into the hull assembly. This is after the infusion process. Rearward of this and yet to be fitted is a bulkhead to isolate the rudder posts in case of a hull breach from the rudders striking something. It is surprising how small the rudders are, they would probably measure less than 5 feet. I suppose them being smaller is an advantage of having dual rudders, I am hoping if I hit anything and shear one off I can always get home on the other one (as long as the tack takes me in the right direction!)
The foam filled chambers you can see are inbuilt into the bow and stern and both sides of the boat. It cuts down on stowage under the bunks, but according to the manufacturer this gives it a truly unsinkable capability, you could drill holes in the bottom and it wont sink.
Getting closer!
