Back to a long board?

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Cobra said..
Why **** the board sticking sh!t trinkets all over it or countersinking crap in the deck.
just put a pair of neoprene knee pads on.
Easyer to play with knee pad thickness than all that crap

You mean put pads on my knees rather than the board????? That's a novel idea, have to Toss that one around in my head for a while, not sure I like the look.

+ if you don't get the padding right on that board it will look like a SH!t fight in no time. I've seen what SUP Decks look like with too much knee paddling.
and it was a NAISH with bamboo lamented deck and deck padding..Unless yours is better and stronger or your body weight is 40kg Good luck.

If you are thinking of knee pads, suggest you have a look at mountain biking pads as some of them are very flexible (designed to go hard on impact).
The cheaper option of the tradie pads are hard shell and soft inner but I think the hard shell you could use stick foam on outside to give you more grip on the wax otherwise they could slide if your wax wears thin.
If you don't like the pads you will work out the sweet spot than you have the skills to router the deck and recess an area.
Good luck

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515 said..
If you are thinking of knee pads, suggest you have a look at mountain biking pads as some of them are very flexible (designed to go hard on impact).
The cheaper option of the tradie pads are hard shell and soft inner but I think the hard shell you could use stick foam on outside to give you more grip on the wax otherwise they could slide if your wax wears thin.
If you don't like the pads you will work out the sweet spot than you have the skills to router the deck and recess an area.
Good luck

Yep I was thinking trade pads, I could knee on concrete for hours with them. soft flexible wouldn't damage the board with different texture for grip.
Decrepit A zillion options With the knee pads and that was my point.
unless you have and tried something that's going down on your dec and know what you want you could be in for a world of pain literally. mate Like me
Owning knee pads for 1 hour only to fling them in a dumpster, that could be the same with your deck paddling.
i was thinking a neoprene knee pad would help with the fact we all know neoprene is pretty good at not slipping and handling water.
2 you can get them in Velcro adjustments So you can custom fit.
3 you can ADD thin Extra impact water proof paddling Under the neoprene and adjusting The neoprene for extra thickness. The extra padding can easy Be removed later when seasoned.just trying to help mate.

Agree with vacuum bottom before shaping deck and rails, that's one advantage of not having blank cnc'd.
Strip of carbon and layer 4oz underneath?
Looking forward to photos shaped deck

Question are you finishing using clear epoxy or paint?

So slow progress, but I've got the 5mm d-cell on the bottom with 4oz cloth and unidirectional carbon. Shaped the deck yesterday.





So who can pick where the nose is, left or right?

Pre-shaped the 3mm gurit for the deck today, tomorrow arvo I'll get it set up for the vac bag early Friday.

I think I'll use a layer of 4oz e glass on the bottom, and 4oz s glass on the deck with a 6oz carbon knee reinforcement.
My rough calculations, say it's going to be a tad under 90l and weigh between 5 and 6kg.
If I'm correct it should knee paddle my 65kg quite well, although the water line will be over the rails.

Nice work Decrepit
I'm picking nose on the right as more gradual curve, the left seems to have more flick in the rocker.
Yes S glass is awesome, love it but why not on bottom?

As option of not painting, I made one sandwich board using epoxy between eps and d cell, then once full sandwich layers glassed bottom and deck using Vinyl Ester Resin with pigment. Its a lot quicker to complete board. The con being painted epoxy board you will use less resin laminating.

Please keep progress and photos coming

So every thing's ready for the vac bag in the morning. here's the gurit preshaped.

Great photo shows the boards lines - nice looking board

Change of plans, I invited Bugs over to discuss where the knee and heel reinforcements should go. Of course he had to check out the whole board, so there will be few minor changes to deck and bottom.
And I'm now disposed to carboning the whole deck, I just have to check if I have a long enough length. If I have the s glass will go on the bottom.
While we were talking I started ripping off the tape holding down the void patches, only for them to pop off, bloody slow resin hadn't gone off during the cold night, taped them back down, and hope they hold.
It's warmer and sunny today, so I'll stick it outside with some black plastic over it while I measure the carbon, and try and work out how much extra weight that will add, (it's 200gm/m2 not the 125gm/m2 the s glass is).
Hmm looks approximately like an extra 250gms. Guess I can live with that, could still come in under 6kgs.

Bugs eh
Bugger about the resin, if its really cold warm the resin which makes it thinner and easier to work with and goes off faster.
Enjoy your windsurf

Not a good day today, had the opposite problem with resin.

Instead of using the slow resin that previously gave me a hard time. I tried a different brand, started off early when it was cold, wet the s glass out on the bench, and rolled it out on the board. Then the problems started, resin didn't want to stick to the divinycell but did stick to the squeegee. So I had a hell time smoothing the glass out. Then I discovered my next mistake, poor planning of my new workshop. I have the board building area adjacent to the big northern facing roller door. The sun started creeping over the board, so I just shut the roller door, That didn't make much difference, being anywhere near the door just felt like standing next to a big radiator. So by the time I had the cloth sorted, the resin was like thick treacle. That's when it really went wrong, I couldn't smooth the peelply out, the resin really grabbed it, and the cloth still wasn't sticking well to the divinycell. So trying to smooth the peelply just stuffed up my hard won smooth glass. So I just had to tape the breather on, stick in the bag and hope for the best. The board is still in the bag, although the resin gelled very quickly it's taking it's time going hard. So I'll probably have some photos tomorrow of how it's come out.

Meanwhile I'll try and figure out a way of moving the glassing area away from the Northern opening.

Thanks for keeping this thread going..

Sure it will come out great in the end.

Gave the board a light sand and squeegeed a thin coat of thin bog on, to fill the weave.

Here's the dry crinkled layup, fortunately, the crinkles are just a very thin layer of resin, that just sands off.
I think the dry lay up helped, if there'd been a surplus of resin the crinkles would have been in the cloth.



Here it is with the thin bog on.


Tomorrow I'll get the deck ready for the carbon, and decide how I'm doing it.

Good day today, put the board in the sun covered in black plastic to speed the cure of the bog so I could sand it, without clogging the sandpaper.

Cut out the polar fleece breather, (spotlight have a sale on, and I found a board or two ago, that this works well as a breather). Cut out the peelply and carbon. The carbon is in 3 pieces, there's a join about 1/3 of the way up, (don't worry there's about an 80mm overlap, and the 3rd piece, the knee/heel reinforcing straddles it.
So I now have a plan, I'll mix resin for each piece separately, that will give me a much loner working time, with less "pot time" for the resin.
If the first piece of carbon is too sticky for the peelply, I can squeegee a thin coat over from the 3rd mix.

With the extra working time, (it's probably going to be colder and cloudy on Monday), I was thinking of a table wetout. I think the carbon will be better behaved than the glass. It's a flatter weave and thicker, so should stick to the d-cell better, but not so much that I can't move it around and smooth it out. Maybe I should try with a small offcut first and see how it behaves.

After it's sun cure the board sanded nicely, the glass overlap is now smooth and most of the fin box support carbon on the tail has been tapered in. There's still a small step as I didn't want to risk sanding into the glass. I'll get that smooth once a thicker filler coat is on.

And yes, it doesn't look dry any more, so I think I've filled the pin holes.