sick board mate, I want one. though I dont know how it would go on the suckier waves. Im just a bit heavier and taller than you so interested in different boards you ride. for the record 610 traditional fish shape ( now retired due to damage) is my fav shape so that custom of yours floats my boat. Have heard good things about 7s boards though most owners comment on the flat rocker being an issue
popping up in slow mo will put you off balance real quick.
^^^
Yes - quick.
Hard to explain, but a bit like a cross between a push-up and starting a 100m sprint race... a really spring.
As dumb as it sounds, you can practice this motion on your loungeroom floor - as there is no un-steady board/wave to deal with. You may notice that this is what the surf instructors do with the newbies on the beach before they go out.
Having said that, nearly every wave is different and there is no substitute for wave time to get better.
, she's got lots to do before selecting some fine pieces. She was at the lead up to the QSP for 3 hours standing in the rain, took more than 400 shots.
Merhoffer
Hey Kadil, in some ways it's ironic that we learn to stand in the whitewater as its actually the hardest place to stand up. The board is flat and you have to push all of the way up. When taking off on a wave before its broken the board falls away from you so it takes less effort to get to your feet. BUT the timing is the incredibly hard part, it's a brain explosion to try to learn to stand and have timing. So you need to do it the hard way.
Your wife's photos have the look of someone who has surfed, she catches the action part of the wave. Surfers read this easily as they anticipate when the apex of a turn will be. Has she surfed before? Or is she holding down the button and getting lucky???
Love to see people get stoked on progress.
