Been pretty spoilt this week wave wise, however did get smashed in the head by the solidly glassed rail of the 9'5", nearly blacking out which is the not so cool part of surfing alone. COLD!! Damn cold all the river mouths are opened, ocean has stolen many of the beaches but gifeted us with some banks where there haven't been banks for quite a while, so apart from the dent in the head and freezing to death, alls damn good!
Absolute smoker of a day, wasn't planning on staying out long coz I'm a bit surfed out from the last few days. But couldn't leave, it just got better & better'er
Gotta Love those days MicK....
Sons footy this morning but we managed a few at the town beach (Which is usually crap) this arvo shoulder height fun, clean and Crisp. Nice
What's wrong with you Mick, I'd much rather be furniture shopping than surfing on the best day of the year!
Watched some crew surf some amazing log waves today. I was so jealous..
Tomorrow will be better......i hope
Solid today. I broke my nose being slapped onto the deck while taking off.
This surfing has knobs on it.
Anyone want to teach me crochet?
Unlucky drip. Im still healing from two months ago when my mal did a slingshot and broke my cheekbone and nose. Hit ne that hard my nostril tore lol.....
No surf today but i saw this off my deck....i think they made a wrong turn
My fin chop was one the most visually gruesome injuries i have ever had....
This smash spooked me at how easy it happened. If i had a helmet would it have helped? Nope......if the board smacked me a inch or two in a different spot? Would have saved my life....just food for thought for me out loud
I never got hurt this much playing grade so yeh cage fighting might be the go. I could see myself in a tapout shirt with my white sunnies
Nice 3 footers this morning new board is super fast...might have to try some bigger fins...surfs very similar to teh vader
Good stuff Tux
.....I broke my nose the same way a few times Drip, need to do it again & set my nose straight. I always put it back in place myself & didn't get it quite right the last time
Sounds like you need a longer leggy Chrispy
Just back from some nice waves down at the local. The banks seem to have come good and there were some nice long lefts and a few rights. Got some nice ones. Rode the 11 footer and had to wear a short john and rash vest because my steamer packed it in last week. It was OK though
Just checked it on my way home from work and it's looking good. The swell has jumped up a bit and the wind is right so I'll wait an hour or so for the tide to come up a bit and I'll be on it.
That sucks.... Sound really nasty...
Hope it is healing.
Had the same thing happen to me a lot of years back..
Well it was my board, someone elses head..
Mate dropped in on me, so we were laughing and ****, i tried to tackle him... we got tangled up under water...
Then when we both came up, about a foot apart and he was looking at me. The board was behind him, next thing i see my board Mach 10 at the back of his head, no time to warn him and he just wore the tail straight to back of the scone, smashed the stringer it hit him that hard and opened his head up pretty good.
Interesting surf, at first I had to 2nd guess what day it was coz there was only 4 guys in the water. Bit hung over lumpy, bumpy & chunky though I guess...I had this one double up, head & a 1/2 wave that sucked out from under me. I had to kick the board out in front, but still got sucked over the falls, landed on my leggy & got rolled with it wrapping around one arm & my body. I had one arm in front of my face with instead of my life flashing before my eyes, Chrispy's story of getting smacked in the face by his board. Lucky I didn't, but man did it hurt.