Well ... all good things sometimes come to an end .... but guess what ..the waves to did not
3ft again, but a full on shore dump .. made for awesome drops, fast faces and rapid exits, but I make some very "questionable" choices in my wave selection that left me with sand in places it should not go . Also left with a fin chop on the leg, but super pumped to have a great weekend of waves left me being "one frothing old age grommet " ha ha ha
Hope you all had a ball and have a good week
The old saying....... never let the truth get in the way off a good story!
Either way, sadly I never got wet and you know I'm easily pleased.
The BB beachies fired this morning & into the rvo .clean head hi peaks that peeled off for 60 mtrs plus ..had some memorable rides on the backhand .. the sand pumping barge created a nice right hander that barrelled over a shallow bank .. such a nice day, off shore wind & still in the SJ with the warm water ..
Bucks weekend in the Byron region so I'll be there fri sat and maybe sun.
Lacey for the record Sunset was dead flat when I swam out I still ****ted myself
Walked over the hill and checked it today . There was swell but the banks are still hopeless. Closing out . Can't remember the last time I went out
Awesome dawny at a local reefy for my first fathers day, classic conditions with next to no wind, not too much of a crowd and good size waves rolling through even though the swell was dropping and the tide was high - perfect for the mal!
My mate had a sever case of 'Malenvy' where he regretted paddling out on a shorty ha ha he still got a couple but was hard work.
Threw on a springy & took the longboard out without a leggie just for some paddle fitness & to see how my thumb felt when paddling hard.....but ended up scoring heaps of waist to shoulder high waves on a little section of reef on my own for a couple of hours....feeling so refreshed & happy right now. Nothing beats a surf after a couple of weeks out of the water