Legions surf report :: Daily updates..

Hey guys, don't mean to but in but since I'm new to surfing was just wondering if you guys could give me tips on how to read the surf reports? Like what swell, wind etc makes perfect conditions?

Cheers guys and if ever I'm at the pub and I hear the likes of blokes named Doggie, Legion, GPA and everyone, I'll be sure to buy you boys a beer eh

... was just wondering if you guys could give me tips on how to read the surf reports? Like what swell, wind etc makes perfect conditions?

Well, obviously it depends upon the location, but nearly always a light offshore is best (ie wind coming off the land blowing into the face of the waves). 5-8 knots is ideal. And you need to be aware of the 'orientation' of the location you are surfing, as a point that is protected from southerlies will 'tolerate' more South in the wind - ie SE.

Also the tide has a big bearing on how good it will be. A low tide will mean there's not much water on the sand bank or reef, making it shallow and more likely to break fast and dump. A high tide will mean that there is too much water on the banks or reef, making the wave fat (or full), and generally will be slower to break (and if really full will just roll without forming into a proper wave). So either side of mid tide is best.

Swell is basically the size of the water moving in to form a wave. The bigger the swell the bigger the wave. It is not always true that a big swell produces the best waves, it depends upon the location and a combination of wind, tide and shape. A 2m swell down Margaret River way can produce waves from waist to over head high depending upon the different break. In Perth, I generally look at the Cottesloe swell chart. 0.5m of Cott swell can produce chest to shoulder high waves at metro locations. 1.0m and it's getting big and some places will start to suffer and be too big to be at their best. 0.3m and you better head to Trigg with a 9'6" plank for some knee high tiddlers (can still be good fun if you are prepared to sit and wait for the waist high sets every 15min)...

Shape of the wave is the #1 factor in how good it will be. Generally, because the shape of a reef is constant, if the wind and tide are right, there will be shape to the wave (presuming it is a surf break). Unfortunately, sand banks shift all over the place, and if there has not been enough storm action (or a period of regular strong onshores), then the gutters and troughs do not form a sand 'bank' and the wave will not 'peel' left to right (or R 2 L) and we end up with a 'straight' breaking wave - ie a wave that breaks along its lenght all at once - commonly referred to as a 'close out' by surfers and 'dumper' by swimmers...

Just start to look at the charts on Seabreeze and from other sources and make a mental note as you are checking out your local break. You'll soon start to put the two together, and will then be able to 'predict' when there is a good chance for decent waves, and equally, when the conditions mean you need to either look elsewhere (ie find another location better suited to the conditions), or give it a miss...

Hope that helps.

GPA

^^^
clever! only those that know....

OK, kind of a mixed up day. I went to the first place I wanted and it was too low tide and not happening on the inside. However, the place before it on the track was good. Looking down from the cliff looked like 6' sets, however it was closer to occasional 5' with relatively consistent 4'. It dropped off a fair bit over time. I had a 4hr session and was stuffed so I didn't make my second location and the swell was too small anyway. I had car troubles, which sucked. Ran my sump dry twice, on the way down (thankfully right at Busso so I picked up some spare oil) and right when I hit South St on the way back. So I think my engine's dead. Still it was nice to get some quality waves.

Nooooooooo

I'm going to be overseas all summer anyway, so no reports from me.

We will resume in Feb.

^^^
Did you see it on Saturday - it was a disgrace! 1-2ft close-outs with a strong Easterly blowing them back... and I reckon there was every one of 100 groms and learners out there dropping in on each other.

Saw one bloke come back in with the top 12" of his shorty snapped clean off.

Needless to say I did not hang around long!!

My day trip was obviously worth it. I will consider doing more, even though it costs me about $100/trip.

Cheers GPA, I owe ya one. And us learners aren't that bad! Haha although I've ended up only surfing during the weekdays as I find the overcrowded beaches very much a turn off. Nothing beats a 5.30am wake and having the beach all to yourself even if you're still just learning

groundhog day.......flat n crap.......groundhog day.......flat n crap.....groundhog day.......flat n crap.....groundhog day.......flat n crap.....groundhog day.......flat n crap.....groundhog day.......flat n crap.....groundhog day.......flat n crap.....groundhog day.......flat n crap.....groundhog day.......flat n crap.....groundhog day.......flat n crap.....groundhog day.......flat n crap.....groundhog day.......flat n crap.....

More like has anyone had a decent surf in the last 8 years in the metro area
Scabs gone to crap since the beach "conservation" was done

what little swell has made it down south this weekend is restricted to only a handful of spots with the wind doing its december desicrator. lots of people too, but more to come in the next couple of weeks..........oh...did i say it was little. yes, its smaller than small.

GROAN!!

Time to dust off the fishing gear I reckon