I hear someone call out the name doggie at my local not so secret spot on saturday, I looked around I thought we might have had a stray in the crowd
Some really nice waves at Trigg early this morning, there's a couple of good banks down the beach with nearly no one out. Nice and sucky and the sets had a bit of size and were holding up.
^^^
9:30 - 11:30 report: Better than yesterday - far less crew and a bit bigger... maybe shoulder high in the sets.
Shape was OK, a very light NNE to start, then it swung North at about 5-6kt for a while, before becoming NW. Some back-wash early, Rips later on. Water still warm.
Fun waves 5.5/10.
Bit of swell around for the next couple of days - crowds should be down at Secret Harbour as well...
BOM local waters forecast:
Wednesday: W/NW winds 15/20 knots reaching 20/25 knots for a period ahead of a
W/SW change 18/23 knots early afternoon. Winds becoming S/SW 13/18 knots during
the evening. Seas 1.5m to 2.0m. Swell rising, 4.0m to 5.0m.
^^^
Well - that's how I saw it...(surfed it) and don't forget I ended up on the mal yesterday as the swell had dropped that much... I ended up grovelling for waist high set waves...
TBH, I was going to give today a miss based on the forecast and the fact that I had surfed the last three days... woke up late, had breakfast then noticed the direction of the wind... checked the graphs/cams and thought why not...
Last day of my hols tomorrow - see if I can manage 5 in a row. Been a very long time since I've done that (and after 4 days my arms and shoulders are letting me know it too!).
This morning travelled to not so secret spot north of Perth south of Yanchep......crested the "hill of truth"......not a soul in the water and 1 bloke sleeping in his ute in the carpark, plenty of swell but NO WAVES, tide too high I think but was on leave pass......shouldve gone to closeout city and stayed local by sounds of it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Have just returned from Bali where Uluwatu was TOOOOOOOO BIG for a coupla days with massive FULL MOON tides to match(blokes paddling out on 8-10' boards and taking 30-45min to do so - way outa my league - getting in(via Padang Padang ,which was ON that arvo!!) wouda been even more fun
) guessing Balangan would,ve been more in my range, but Ulus was great fun for a cupla days after....Kuta was a board snapping beast for 2 days and then great fun on tide changes as the swell dropped.......great to travel with kids /wife during biggest longest swell event I have seen in 8 trips!!!!!! they just don't understand at all... DO THEY[}:)][}:)][}:)][}:)]
will get some fotos up soon.
saw the local Padma Bank boys kick the **** out of a Brazo...who we tried to help as did the tourist police....all we managed was to get his leg rope off his ankle and advise to run....life savers sorted it out...sort of....reckon a hurried ticket out of Kuta may have been purchased!! but upon hearing why the "justice" was forthcoming.......well he was a BRAZO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! and threw 1st punch!!
It's a mess!
Checked out a novelty wave that could have been 'on' with a NW and >3m swell. Despite high tide there's not a lot of water there, and the NW is much more WNW and not hitting it right...
The rest of the coast is fully onshore and white-capping... Hopefully we'll get some better banks out of it...
Off to walk the dog and mow the lawns instead 
Did check the spot we talked about on way to work but it was supper messy..
^^^^^^^
those ulus photos are awesome
reminds me of some old pics of Jim Banks from the 80s
My cousin lives there, told me I could borrow his 8'6 he leaves at one of the warangs!!!!
I came up with a hamsting related HEART injury
Best place for me to surf that was with a bintang on the Singlefin Bar deck...not alone I might add
a little spot even closer to airport from balangan starts to fire on that kind of swell.... board in the third pic doesn't even look that big. massive respect!
Holy...I'm there in 6 weeks. I'm hoping for good swell but maybe not quite that good. Unless someone has a spare set of kahuna's they might like to loan me.
I thought I had Ulus big once... Bugger me!
Today is a white wash isn't it fellas?!
Still a few having a dig though.
I'm not enthused.
