Front foot pressure, how do I get it?

Try bending front knee, which is opposite from windsurfing.
Also, try staying on your toes with back foot, so front foot takes your weight.

I'm experiencing similar adjustments, I had the mast forward to keep the nose down but found myself all twisted and leaning forward. After watching Heliboy999's latest video I moved the mast back and the boom up and felt much more comfortable. (I'm on a Naish 122 / Thrust)

Track all the way back, boom at wave/freestyle height, long lines and keep the rig upright. Control height by moving the mast forward.

Consider ditching straps or placing foot inboard of them. Slight bend in front knee can work like riding a modern multifin upwind.

The old formula 186 has mastfoot box too much in front and straps too far outside for the supercruiser i think. Had the chance to try this foil with sb foil x 145 and it felt well balanced with the short nose. Your formula board would be better with the sb race foil.

I get a similar feel on the foil to you Stretchy. What im finding is i have to adjust my stance to an upright one so my weight stays over the board


Im so used to pushing out off the side of the board on my slalom kit that i end up doing it on the big foil board, not helped by the straps being right outboard on that too. Being out off the side of the board works ok if you've got the board heeled over to windward, not so much if its cruising at a flatter angle to you. It'll end up getting lifted higher and higher and your weight (front foot pressure) isn't there to stop it.
shorter lines/inboard straps will help. As others said the formula board is pretty wide for a super cruiser foil, possibly a bit too much outboard leverage.
My problem is i keep getting back on the slapper gear for a period of time and re adopt my slalom stance. Then i get on the foil again: back to square one.

Stretch I'll be at K bay this arvo. You should take my kit for a spin. it will be so much easier to use.

Interesting point you make about the forward body position making it harder to get weight on the front leg. Moving straps inboard should definitely help that. One of the best freeride foilers I've seen was on a formula board with straps moved inside (described at www.iwindsurf.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=34421).

I think there are also foil-specific differences. The Slingshot i84 is quite easy to control when they start moving up. With a couple of the older Slingshot front wings, I had a much harder time. That may (partly?) be a trim issue, since the older wings have the COE further forward.

Sail rigging is also very important, tighter leach required so that when gust hit, board drives forward and slightly downward. Sail trimming is critical in foiling stronger winds and going fast in strong gusts, how do the Pros handle 8.0 + sizes in 20knts plus winds ? ..

Stretchy, if u get a chance give the starboard Gtr or race foils a try on your current formula board as you will find your board / strap combo will feel much better suited and balanced. The riding style with the race and free race foils will allow you to put both back and front foot into straps and lean out and forward on the harness lines and feel that weight more on the front foot. If you normally windsurf Freeride blasting, freerace, or race the transitioning to the Freerace or race starboard foils is in some ways more natural and easy.

The starboard supercruiser is a great foil but a totally different foiling feel compared to the Starboard GT/gtr/race foils.... and IMO feels best suited where strap positions are more inboard which a formula board does not typically offer. For sure the formula board can be used with the supercruiser however you will most likely be riding with feet out of straps and standing much more inboard with rear foot closer to the centerline. . The supercruiser foil riding technique will have you standing with a much more upright stance, so much that you can easily ride without a harness or in harness lines. Starboard have released 2 new foilboards 145x and 105x which compliment the supercruiser type of foil more so. On the supercruiser foil you can set the front wing on the outer 2 hole setting on the fuselage to gain a bit more lift and front foot pressure. Try having the mast track center to slightly back.

There's many factors and different techniques. In racing I have both legs straight 99% of the time, independent of windstrength, and am even more comfortable with my backfoot in the backstrap in high than low wind. Freeriding I bend through the frontleg a lot. Both require different trims.

First, in a quick and dirty manner of speaking, your foiltrim is 'correct' when you can keep flying with your front foot in the strap and your backfoot at least 2/3rd back inbetween the straps. My setups keep flying when I put my backfoot next to the frontstrap! Having the foils' power forward is paramount in stability, and trying to learn the right technique is impossible if you foils' power is too far back. If you cant pull your backfoot out of the strap and put it about halfway between the straps without landing you have to do some trimming before you continue. (Moving the foil forward, increasing angle on the stab etc.) Take about where I put my foot in this jibe as a reference: www.instagram.com/p/B0tWz4DgpsW/?igshid=1ws1sc0dogcdb

Personally I'm not a big fan of "the front wing should be center between your feet" quick and dirty way of trimming. In the kit on the video my front wing is 8cm behind the frontstrap, so that would be over 3/4th! I run somewhere between 2/3rd and 3/4th forward between the straps on my freeride setups aswell. This to be able to put my weight over the foil, increasing balance tremendously (maybe after a short adjustment period)

Fter you have that sorted, there's 2 general techniques:
The first one requires a longer distance between the mastfoot and the foil, as you keep the nose down through mastfoot preassure. By pushing the sail forward and away from you you distribute your weight between your legs and the mastfoot by hanging your weight from the boom. This works very well for flying in a straight line and getting the upwind angles.
If you want to have a more manouvre oriented style move the sail back all the way and boom up, you'll be able to sail more upright and really distribute the weight more over your legs, and have pretty much no weight hanging down from the boom.
The first technique is easier on racing equipment with the straps outboard, the latter is easier with more manouvre oriented straps and maybe even (partly) strapless. Learning the second technique properly is also key for the foiling duckjibe for example, as in the duckjibe you have no way to preassure the mastfoot to stabilize rideheight.

One thing which matters a great deal in control and is paramount for both styles is sailtrim and harnessline positioning. I disagree with thightening the leech to increase acceleration. The less twist you have the less acceleration and the more power you'll feel in the sail. I advice learners to always trim their sail as normal!! Regular sails need the open leech to work properly, as thats the way the sail is designed!! It has its shape thought out by the sail designers, and generally you shouldnt go too far of the way it is supposed to be set. A more open leech will make the sail feel a lot softer in the gusts and accelerate better. A leech which is too thight might bring you out of balance in the gusts because it is very jerky.
Second, the harness lines have to be dead center. When on the foil try sailing with no hands. If the sail falls forward move your lines forward, if it falls backward move them back. For the foil I trim my lines down to the mm and am able to sail over 20 seconds with no hands. I put my lines all the way together, but thats a personal preference, when i started foiling I had them a handwidth apart, but i feel I have more control and faster response to gusts when they are closer together. Simply put, how far they are apart determines your room of error, but also the responsiveness of your sail to gusts by a great deal!