Forceten,
Not big on toe for sides.
I have some toe on the main fins (rears).
No production quads that I'v heard of are running any noticeable toe in on front fins, they all have about 0.3 to 0.6 degrees which is nothing..... I reckon they only do that (slight toe in) as toe out is bad....... so its easier to make a routing template with slight toe in, then any error by workers putting boxes in will at least not result in toe out.
A bit of toe in on main fins and a concave following the outline to flow the water at the right angle past them - nice 
I love how this board rides, so no changes to fin angles. Plus K4 does not really blow my skirt up. I like G10 feeling
And - 92L. Yet to measure with full top laminate on but I think I am a smidge thicker in some places than my template so perhaps 93-94L
Didn't weigh the blank to get an exact volume ....
carbon rails, wood lam
Had a few splits but no big deal took very little filler.
CK going on this arvo I hope.
Its on 6kg now so very happy, my math was about right, shooting for 7kg finished.
Who is sick of sideways pics? 
^^ Hell Yeah!! Why do the pics sometimes rotate? Gave up posting pics bcoz of this.
Select to expand quoteMark _australia said..
carbon rails, wood lam
Had a few splits but no big deal took very little filler.
CK going on this arvo I hope.
Its on 6kg now so very happy, my math was about right, shooting for 7kg finished.
Who is sick of sideways pics?
Looking good Mark! Nice outline. Those fliers look challenging with putting on the wood.
Select to expand quoteMark _australia said..
carbon rails, wood lam
Had a few splits but no big deal took very little filler.
CK going on this arvo I hope.
Its on 6kg now so very happy, my math was about right, shooting for 7kg finished.
Who is sick of sideways pics?
Looking good Mark! Nice outline. Those fliers look challenging with putting on the wood.
Fixed it for you Mark. I think it's the way SB processes the image to make it fit on the page. If you shrink it first to around 900 pixels wide, You shouldn't have any problems. And yes it is looking great!
Good luck finding the inserts!
^^^^ Nah good template first, had to do a bit of pushing with a nail to find some of them but didn't have to drill any unnecessary exploration holes haha
Now done the CK over top and vacuumed it, so at least can jussst see depressions where the insert holes are.
Select to expand quoteMark _australia said..
Forceten,
Not big on toe for sides.
I have some toe on the main fins (rears).
No production quads that I'v heard of are running any noticeable toe in on front fins, they all have about 0.3 to 0.6 degrees which is nothing..... I reckon they only do that (slight toe in) as toe out is bad....... so its easier to make a routing template with slight toe in, then any error by workers putting boxes in will at least not result in toe out.
A bit of toe in on main fins and a concave following the outline to flow the water at the right angle past them - nice
I love how this board rides, so no changes to fin angles. Plus K4 does not really blow my skirt up. I like G10 feeling
And - 92L. Yet to measure with full top laminate on but I think I am a smidge thicker in some places than my template so perhaps 93-94L
Didn't weigh the blank to get an exact volume ....
The Simmers have 1.5 degree, most are minimal.
www.k4fins.com/2016/04/09/updated-production-board-toe-measurements/
With stiff rears and flexy fronts a nice feel can be compromised, its a subjective thing as to feel. Same with toe. The board designer for Simmer is innovative. All subjects for another thread .
Really nice looking board you have made !!
Thanks mate
CK on, now the elbow grease part will start, gonna be a lot of finishing so see you all in a few weeks hahaha
Getting a good bake in the sun now cos last night was pretty cold.
Cheers
Yes 4oz over the CK, hotcoat over that so I will machine sand to almost kiss the glass layer
and yes, hahaha encountered it before. You never forget the frustration of sanding into the kevlar 
Almost unavoidable on some repairs though. I discovered if it is not too many aramid fibres exposed, you can soak them in resin then scalpel them off when almost set. Then primer over that and you won't quite raise them again if careful.
Don't have that luxury on this one though, I want a fair bit of exposed deck. And I've hit my 7kg already 
But its a 92L for a big fella to use 30kn plus, bit of extra goodness to prevent the softness - yeahhhh 
Forecast for tomorrow:
Dusty
At least q-cell sanding is better than bloody fibres....
I reckon if I was a cafe strip ponce, I could call that ^^^^^^ an artwork and win a prize....
Machine sanded bottom to 240 grade, that was easy as expected with the q-cel mix
Then machine sanded the top same a s surfboard, always very careful hitting the clear hotcoat with 180 grade at 4000rpm ...... bit nervous.....
Then 240 grade.
Nice and flat, only a couple of burn-throughs in places that don't matter as they are where I planned to paint and/or deck grip covers up.
Then a nice wet hand job with 240 as below....
Select to expand quoteactiomax said..
That looks awesome .
**** yeah !
Good stuff Mark !
Come on Mark ya slacker !
Next instalment please, you've got us all in suspenders !
What have you been doing, going to work or something?
Hey I did say it would be a while lol - lots of sand and prime....
The bottom is now white. Lots of changes coming.....
But yeah had to go to work a bit.....
Bottom and rails in white 2 pack
just a rough job - as bottom will be sanded back finish to be lighter and trendy, rails will get a sand back and colour over
Nice gloss always shows up some little boo boos though hahahaha
meh, that's what logos are for 
^^^ Nah nowhere near it lol. Lots more paint, and gotta make pads....
Non skid will be acrylic dust and 2K matte clear, done same way as factory.
Trouble is we can't buy the grit as fine as Cobra etc, have to sieve Intergrip a lot and its still rougher.
I also I can't find a clear 2K that is quite as flat as they use, my so-called totally matte 2K is almost a satin.
Thus I wonder if Cobra use a one part system, that might explain the lack of grip durability. So whilst my grip has a little bit of a sheen to it, I like that it is grippier and actually lasts more than a season or two...
So why not sugar ? I did the half normal half caster thing and it is perfect and doesn't wear out . Is the acrylic method lighter ? I've had a few cobra boards and they end up slippery real quick , seems the newer models the worse.
Imax1, intergrip particles are softer n smoother in shape than sugar. But i think its the resin or clear coat that lets it wear out. Ive used Rustoleum 2X satin n intergrip on 6 regripped boards now. 5 months sailing n still ok. Less clear is more grippy. Too thick a final coat burys the particles n is slippery. Always looking for alternatives.
Select to expand quoteMark _australia said..
^^^ Nah nowhere near it lol. Lots more paint, and gotta make pads....
Non skid will be acrylic dust and 2K matte clear, done same way as factory.
Trouble is we can't buy the grit as fine as Cobra etc, have to sieve Intergrip a lot and its still rougher.
I also I can't find a clear 2K that is quite as flat as they use, my so-called totally matte 2K is almost a satin.
Thus I wonder if Cobra use a one part system, that might explain the lack of grip durability. So whilst my grip has a little bit of a sheen to it, I like that it is grippier and actually lasts more than a season or two...
A season! I think your being a bit generous about that.
Yeah true hahaha
All my boards post 2014 have worn quite quickly.
Imax - I don't have anything against sugar just that it is hard to broadcast it evenly (same with Intergrip) but I have been trying to duplicate factory grip nicely for repairs, so it doesn't stick out. Sieved Intergrip with a clear, shot thru primer gun, is the closest you will get but I am still trying to perfect it. So will do this board with that method....
OTOH roller and sprinkle is a lot easier, much less masking
I just saw a deck grip method on Maui which I haven't heard of before.
They used "UV Cure Polyester Sanding Resin". (on any type of board)
Foam roller to apply the resin and then sprinkled Acrylic powder.
Very specific cure method.
Expose coated board to sun for 60 seconds, remove from direct sunlight for 2 minutes.
Then expose board again for 8 minutes and it's cured.
Reckoned they had tried to short the cure method and it didn't work any other way.
Acrylic powder on Maui is $14 US for 1 lb (453gr)....... about 25% of the NZ cost.
3 grades available and only 'fine' was ok for bare feet.
Select to expand quoteolskool said..
Imax1, intergrip particles are softer n smoother in shape than sugar. But i think its the resin or clear coat that lets it wear out. Ive used Rustoleum 2X satin n intergrip on 6 regripped boards now. 5 months sailing n still ok. Less clear is more grippy. Too thick a final coat burys the particles n is slippery. Always looking for alternatives.
I think its more than the sharpness left behind that gives sugar a good grip . I believe it to be the millions of tiny cavities that work like tiny suction cups . Its the same with boom grip . The shiny skin on EVA foam , ( which boom grip is made from ) , when wet is super slippery , but when sliced in sheets , ( exposing millions of half cut bubbles ) is very grippy . Just as grippy wet as dry , possibly more . Same kind of thing .
When i do sugar coats it is way too abrasive and go over it with 600 wet and dry . To the touch it feels quite smooth , but when wet with a little pressure on it , it is super grippy .
And it doesnt wear out , ever .
But you have to use a thicker painted on layer of resin to work like this , which would be heavier .
Thats my theory anyway and im sticking to it , ( no pun intended ) .
