Select to expand quoterp6conrad said..Rolz said..PacoRaapNL said..
Jan did a last resort proposal to use the 1.06 board library by using a json url file which shows all previous libraries in de ESP32 board manager. I cant place pictures yet here as newbie.
With the 1.06 version and the 2.0.2 IDE now after a reboot the webserver is shown.
Also the Putty logged into the comport shows correct backgraound commands like sleep and wake up.
Thanks Jan for the assistance the past week.
We knew it was something small and it was firework to end this year 2023 with this troubleshooting.
See you all next year.
Paco
out of interest what happened when you use the flash download tool?www.espressif.com/en/support/download/other-tools
The first attempt was with the Arduino IDE 2.2 + ESP32 V2.01 library, loading the OTA Webupdate example. Then uploading the ESP SW 5.80 over OTA. At first, seems to run, but after reboot / powercycle, the Arduino OTA Webupdate example boot again !
Then the second attempt with the Espressif tool gives the same behaviour ! It looks that the Espressif tool does not complete erase the flash, as the same problem did raise again.
Only the attempt with Arduino IDE 2.2 + ESP32 V1.06 did fix the problem.
@ Paco : correct me if I am wrong.
Greetings, Jan
Jan is correct. If I use the Espressif tool, it also has an Erase function which I also tried. I also tried the ONLINE ESPTOOL from Github to erase in advanced so we had a clean memory. When using the Espressif option to flash the 4 files it does not error out and does the upload. But after a reboot or RST nothing happened and the screen was still froozen from previous attemps.
Arduino IDE 2.0.2 + ESP32 V1.0 board library worked for me.
Paco
and i just flash 15 123BN without chip and with the leds (hmm) using the U2T kit and flash version 3.9.2
al 15 done (5.80)
It does not work in one time... First startup flash 3.9.2. Set the files. Then plug the T5 to the U2Tand USB cable, then (last) plug the USB cable in the PC. After i had done one, i have to disconnect the USB cabel from the PC. Plug the new T5 on the U2T, plug the USB cable in the PC, that work fine.
I will add this logo in the next update, but as it has to fit in 48*48 pixels, only the S2 part will remain !
Greetings, Jan.
Select to expand quotePacoRaapNL said..
Thank you Decrepit.
Now I have 3 Liligo's I have to do something with them.. :-)
One will become a minimal size logger only version to be tested and to be used in waterproof small pouch/bag which I use for my car key on my brest. No idea if we will have enough sats but otherwise I can reuse it for a full package version.
One will be a full view package version with a modified 3D printed version from Freeze.
The last one I keep as spare.... :-) just in case.
Question for Freeze did you use the 3M tape in for example 10mm witdh and made them up as one glue layer?
Or did you bougth and used a large 80x80mm 3M BHV piece cut to the correct size just like an one part seal?
===============
Hi Paco, great to see more Dutchy's on the forum.
I use 3M Scotch 5952 VHB-tape: 1 in. x 15 ft
The height of the epaper is exactly 1inch so I use 2 pieces left and right of the epaper and 2 pieces on the full width cut such that the height is correct. As I cannot cut perfectly straight I rotate the tape such that the outside (uncut) edges of the tape remain visible near the epaper opening.
I should make a YouTube video for easy explanation...
Select to expand quoteFreezer said..PacoRaapNL said..
Thank you Decrepit.
Now I have 3 Liligo's I have to do something with them.. :-)
One will become a minimal size logger only version to be tested and to be used in waterproof small pouch/bag which I use for my car key on my brest. No idea if we will have enough sats but otherwise I can reuse it for a full package version.
One will be a full view package version with a modified 3D printed version from Freeze.
The last one I keep as spare.... :-) just in case.
Question for Freeze did you use the 3M tape in for example 10mm witdh and made them up as one glue layer?
Or did you bougth and used a large 80x80mm 3M BHV piece cut to the correct size just like an one part seal?
===============
Hi Paco, great to see more Dutchy's on the forum.
I use 3M Scotch 5952 VHB-tape: 1 in. x 15 ft
The height of the epaper is exactly 1inch so I use 2 pieces left and right of the epaper and 2 pieces on the full width cut such that the height is correct. As I cannot cut perfectly straight I rotate the tape such that the outside (uncut) edges of the tape remain visible near the epaper opening.
I should make a YouTube video for easy explanation...
Hello Feeezer ?(Simon),
I got addicted to this project. Read the whole trhead twice and still have to read it once more.
If your a Strand Horst surfer we have to meet somewhere in time. this year.I have ordered the 10mm witdh tape on Ali and while reading the thread once more I have read how you progress with the tape.
nl.aliexpress.com/item/32902901228.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.39.306379d2pQe2Xg&gatewayAdapt=glo2nld
I also ordered some other products like SD micro adapter with large solder points/holes. nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005005591145849.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.5.306379d2pQe2Xg&gatewayAdapt=glo2nldThis way you can make the size smaller as the adapter board can be fit with hot glue on the rear of the PCB. You can shrinkwrap it first in thin shrinkwrap. I have seen someone soldering the SD card to the opened/reworked SD adpater cage, For me that is a no go. ;-)
Somethings of interest.
Waterthight 3D print parts....
I have printed several boxes in PETG and poured them full with water and let them stand still for 24 hours on tissue paper.
No leaking at all. In contrast I read people filling the 3D print with epoxy and the expoy sips through from the inside to the outside.For me this means bad print quality is bad and has nothing to do with 3D can not be water thight.
For the issue about pressure at 2 m dept as Flex describes.Make the T 5 display 1 mm below the top of the bottom 3D part.
Use a transparant top plate of 0.5mm PC or PETG sticked with the 3M tape.
www.toemen.nl/product/vivak-polyester-pet-g-platen-en-folies-250-x-500mm-05mm
Cover it up with a display plate which pulls/presses all to the 3D bottom part.
More sccrews will make the 3D parts less prone to disforming.
As the display size of the top part is open and the display of the T5 is 1 mm away from this top plate, it can expand under pressure where the 3M tape is the sealing and equalizer.
Worth to try as proof of concept? I have no swimmingpool to test :-(
Cheers, Paco
Select to expand quotePacoRaapNL said..Freezer said..PacoRaapNL said..
Thank you Decrepit.
Now I have 3 Liligo's I have to do something with them.. :-)
One will become a minimal size logger only version to be tested and to be used in waterproof small pouch/bag which I use for my car key on my brest. No idea if we will have enough sats but otherwise I can reuse it for a full package version.
One will be a full view package version with a modified 3D printed version from Freeze.
The last one I keep as spare.... :-) just in case.
Question for Freeze did you use the 3M tape in for example 10mm witdh and made them up as one glue layer?
Or did you bougth and used a large 80x80mm 3M BHV piece cut to the correct size just like an one part seal?
===============
Hi Paco, great to see more Dutchy's on the forum.
I use 3M Scotch 5952 VHB-tape: 1 in. x 15 ft
The height of the epaper is exactly 1inch so I use 2 pieces left and right of the epaper and 2 pieces on the full width cut such that the height is correct. As I cannot cut perfectly straight I rotate the tape such that the outside (uncut) edges of the tape remain visible near the epaper opening.
I should make a YouTube video for easy explanation...
Hello Feeezer ?(Simon),
I got addicted to this project. Read the whole trhead twice and still have to read it once more.
If your a Strand Horst surfer we have to meet somewhere in time. this year.I have ordered the 10mm witdh tape on Ali and while reading the thread once more I have read how you progress with the tape.
nl.aliexpress.com/item/32902901228.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.39.306379d2pQe2Xg&gatewayAdapt=glo2nld
I also ordered some other products like SD micro adapter with large solder points/holes. nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005005591145849.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.5.306379d2pQe2Xg&gatewayAdapt=glo2nldThis way you can make the size smaller as the adapter board can be fit with hot glue on the rear of the PCB. You can shrinkwrap it first in thin shrinkwrap. I have seen someone soldering the SD card to the opened/reworked SD adpater cage, For me that is a no go. ;-)
Somethings of interest.
Waterthight 3D print parts....
I have printed several boxes in PETG and poured them full with water and let them stand still for 24 hours on tissue paper.
No leaking at all. In contrast I read people filling the 3D print with epoxy and the expoy sips through from the inside to the outside.For me this means bad print quality is bad and has nothing to do with 3D can not be water thight.
For the issue about pressure at 2 m dept as Flex describes.Make the T 5 display 1 mm below the top of the bottom 3D part.
Use a transparant top plate of 0.5mm PC or PETG sticked with the 3M tape.
www.toemen.nl/product/vivak-polyester-pet-g-platen-en-folies-250-x-500mm-05mm
Cover it up with a display plate which pulls/presses all to the 3D bottom part.
More sccrews will make the 3D parts less prone to disforming.
As the display size of the top part is open and the display of the T5 is 1 mm away from this top plate, it can expand under pressure where the 3M tape is the sealing and equalizer.
Worth to try as proof of concept? I have no swimmingpool to test :-(
Cheers, Paco
Yes it is Simon and I do windsurf @ Horst so we can meet in person (when temperatures go up again). No problem getting in contact directly, just send me a PM through the forum.
The micro-sd card placement is something to workaround indeed. In the 3D design we have tried to work-around it rather than resoldering the connections. I think one of Jan's friends also did a sdcard hardwiring to make things more compact. I am looking for an easy install that looks decent. As my pooring experiments have the tedency to fail (5 out of 6 units), I am using the classic design as you have on the left. The classic is more complex as it involves DD-lack, 3M tape, polycarbonate, inserts, screws and finally also butyl sealant to make it properly waterproof.
There are many levels of waterproof. I could easily make it sit in a bucket for 24hrs without leaking but crashing at 30knots slamming on the water is another thing. Expoying the whole unit is the most secure way, but no repair posibilities. I don't think I have 3D print quality issues. I mainly use PLA on a Prusa Mini plus but I also have units with PETG. Both of them were optimized for the right print temperatures. I use 0.2mm layer quality setting making things pretty nice and smooth and takes quite some time to finish. But as I don't make quantaties, time is no issue. I could poor water in it and it would stay inside after 24hrs, but with the finest/slowest/most-transparent pooring epoxy the cavities would seep. I have now a lower quality pooring epoxy that I have not used yet to check if this works better, both for pooring as well as the most important damaging the device. I still haven't figured out what is causing it. My friend BigBoss (Andres) is applying sealant on the whole PCB before pooring and it still works. It turns out that the pooring epoxy is protecting the epaper enough without the use of polycarbonate protection.
Your ideas on making a full transparent cover could be done with 3M tape and polycarbonate as well. Not just in the lid but directly on the case after some adjustments. Reopening a covered lid would be possible, although one would probably only need new polycarbonate cover. The screws and inserts can be gone and the visibility on the epaper will be enhanced. water tighness should be as good as it is now.
I'm also working on a 266 variant iso 213 what make a nice increase of size/resolution. I need to adjust the software to accomodate/utilize the increase of space/size. With the increased display I can also increase the battery size. While I currently have 2000mAh for the classic and 1300mAh for the compact, I can strech this to resp. 4000mA and 2000mA bu just using the extra display size created area internally.
But as I have quite a few other projects running, it does not get that much priority at the moment. But I got some help on the 3D design by Bart who designed the original case with us.
Hi Simon I received your PM and answered.
It is to cold now to windsurf but I guess we have a wonderfull summer again and we will meet @ strand horst.
I have no experience with pouring with epoxy but if I search for pouring epoxy I see they are available in different viscosities.
Water has a viscosity of 1 cps Centipoise at 20 degrees celsius.
Epoxy varies from 1 to several 10.000cps.So water is thin but does exit the 3D mold.So I am curious how epoxy at low viscosity can exit from the inside when pouring into a 3D mold.
Taken from a webpage.
The viscosity of the resin is the thickness of the liquid and is typically measured in units called centipoise (cP). The viscosity spectrum goes from low viscosity, something like water (1 cP), to high viscosity, something more like molasses (10,000 cP).
For the SD card location rework. Soldering to the reserved SD card pins on the T5 is easy. If you already have to solder the GPS wires 6 more cant be that hard.When objects are hard core fitted to each other, they are likely to break when high G's are involved. A little flex like hotglue or just contact glue makes a flexible connection. Correct me if I am wrong.
Also the heat generated by the wireless charge system coil can be a problem.Parts are ordered too to see how this works and if it affect the whole 3D structure with or without pouring.
I have to wait for my 3M tape and PETG plates too, but thinkering never stops.
Cheers
Hello everyone,
I have build a housing with PETG Plates. The Base and Lid is 2mm thick. The Plate on the Base got by time some cracks. I think due the charging heat.
If you rewire the the SD card you maybe gain ~10mm. But somewhere you have to place the Battery and GPS sensor as well. In my opinion this is only beneficial if you use also a really small battery.
Best regards
Select to expand quoteActimel87 said..
Hello everyone,
I have build a housing with PETG Plates. The Base and Lid is 2mm thick. The Plate on the Base got by time some cracks. I think due the charging heat.
If you rewire the the SD card you maybe gain ~10mm. But somewhere you have to place the Battery and GPS sensor as well. In my opinion this is only beneficial if you use also a really small battery.
Best regards
Thanks for the information, certainly about the heat generation from the charging system. For proof of concept I ordered a 800mah 1S lipo of 50x30x5mm and a 14500 1300 mah round Lipo cell.
You can use a 2000mah version so you can record 24 hours but..........my human energy level will max out before that.
I am not 20 years anymore. I adapt the design to my performance. See what it brings me so others can benefit. Thinkering is a endless dream.
Paco
Maybe I'm wrong but even if you use a BE-XXX GPS the 2000mAH does not last for 24h recording.
The LP603449 (1100mAH) works just fine for two sessions on the water.
The nice thing with a larger Battery is the comfort of no need of charging for every session. Maybe one day you will simply forget to charge the Battery;)
My wife runs a bakkery at home..
I used one of here tools for a proof of concept .... 
The bag only has to be sealed at one side.She does syrup in those plastic bags. This may not leak when it is shipped by post.
This was a bag that she has by standard. Might also order just a little smaller for a thighter fit.OK it is not water and in the meantime I think I have found another tool from the bakkery for making things waterthight.
Select to expand quoteBigBoss said..
Hoi Jan.....is there an updated version of this:
need to ad S2maui ;-)
Also Carbon Art ?
Select to expand quoterp6conrad said..
Bic and Thommen logo is foreseen, which is the Carbon Art logo ?
Cheers .
Greg
Interesting article from Prusa on watertightness and 3d printing:
blog.prusa3d.com/watertight-3d-printing-part-2_53638/
I think I might move to 4 perimeters and 60% infill. Currently I use 2 and 15%.
Ironing I'm not yet familiar with. Good to see that PETG or PLA don't matter too much.
Although they mention pooring epoxy is easy, unfortunately in my case it has not been a great success to say the least. 5 devices out of 6 have died within a month while working the first week. Lot of different pooring epoxy types though where some stay flexible others cure very stiff. I have used the stiff ones, but curing very slow 3-7days, low temperature, low expansion, highly transparent and UV resistant. I bought a slighly different one but haven't tested it yet.
Select to expand quoteFreezer said..
Interesting article from Prusa on watertightness and 3d printing:
blog.prusa3d.com/watertight-3d-printing-part-2_53638/
I think I might move to 4 perimeters and 60% infill. Currently I use 2 and 15%.
Ironing I'm not yet familiar with. Good to see that PETG or PLA don't matter too much.
Although they mention pooring epoxy is easy, unfortunately in my case it has not been a great success to say the least. 5 devices out of 6 have died within a month while working the first week. Lot of different pooring epoxy types though where some stay flexible others cure very stiff. I have used the stiff ones, but curing very slow 3-7days, low temperature, low expansion, highly transparent and UV resistant. I bought a slighly different one but haven't tested it yet.
I already print all my objects with 4 perimeters and depending if it is production version or not 15 or 100% infill.As the objects are not large 100% infill is no problem and if this enhances the structure and reduce possible leakage I have no problem with that route.
Only print time becomes longer.
But if you are in a hurry you should not use a 3D printer :-)Ironing is nothing more then smearing a small amount of filamant as top layer. I do not think in our setup you would benefit from it.
Normally my prints in PETG are smooth enough for my liking.
Still waiting for the 2 different batteries. Other parts like wireless charg are in.
Paco
Update SW5.81 is on Github with next changes :
Changes SW5.81
added drop down menu for Sail and Board logos
added board logos Carbon Art, Thommen, Bic
added saillogo S2_Maui
gpx.h changes for better fit to the standard (http -> https, indentations, stand alone, contribution from Michael G)
removed limits for sample-rate
added warning after upload if the sample-rates are too high
ShortPush39 50ms->10ms
Greetings, Jan.
Hello everyone,
has someone tested the GPS signal quality if the sensor is built underneath the white paper?
Best Regards
I wouldn't consider it, Because I'm after maximum accuracy.
I think the display motions had the antenna under the display.
I remember that Julien said the mini motions were more accurate than the display because, the antenna wasn't behind the display.
But it's a different display and Julien didn't say how much difference there was.
Good Morning,
well you are right never throw accuracy away, but Paco is also right.
I think whit the M10 Chip (BE-XXX) the ESP32 kills in terms of accuracy everything.For example Coros Apex is only able to connect with 5 Satellites.
However due to the size it is not possible to wear the ESP like a watch on the wrist.
If I reduce Batteryliftime and resolder or reposition the SD Card as well the GPS underneath the white paper the formfactor couldbecomesmall enough for wrist waring.
I have two ESP32 and two BE-182 I'm willing to test difference in signal quality:)Unfortunately I have no clue how to analyse the dataset.
how I analyse the GPS Signal Quality?
do we have something like test procedure with a Signal Rating?
Select to expand quoteActimel87 said..
Good Morning,
well you are right never throw accuracy away, but Paco is also right.
I think whit the M10 Chip (BE-XXX) the ESP32 kills in terms of accuracy everything.For example Coros Apex is only able to connect with 5 Satellites.
However due to the size it is not possible to wear the ESP like a watch on the wrist.
If I reduce Batteryliftime and resolder or reposition the SD Card as well the GPS underneath the white paper the formfactor couldbecomesmall enough for wrist waring.
I have two ESP32 and two BE-182 I'm willing to test difference in signal quality:)Unfortunately I have no clue how to analyse the dataset.
how I analyse the GPS Signal Quality?
do we have something like test procedure with a Signal Rating?
The simple way : Compare both log files with gps-speedreader, check for differences in number of sattelites and sAcc values.
The difficult way : Switch on ubx protocol and nav-sat messages in the configuration settings. Analyse both ubx files with Ucenter2 (sw from ublox). Look for differences in signal quality of the individual sats.
Greetings, Jan.
with a wrist warn device, you also get lose of accuracy, mainly in gybes, especially if you use the over/under grip. The device gets a completely different sky view at sail flip.
If you analyse any watches data, you can pick which tack it's on, by the loss of signal when the gps is in the under mode.
My bet is two units on the booms and use the average of the two. That way you have both accuracy and a good view of what's going on.
Question for the pro's :-)
Firmware 5.80
I have this new BE-220 gps
nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005006169108102.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.26.332379d2ShAydf&gatewayAdapt=glo2nld.
Should I change any settings compared to a BN-220 which works fine and is detected as M8.
With the BE-220 it says initlializing GPS but nothing happens.
It detects satelites with the red led blinking. I have one battery in a 14500 round size with 1500 mah printed on the shrinkwrap.
I am currently testing with this for the endurance time as proof of concept.
Paco.
Select to expand quotePacoRaapNL said..
Question for the pro's :-)
Firmware 5.80
Should I change any settings compared to a BN-220 which works fine and is detected as M8.
With the BE-220 it says initlializing GPS but nothing happens.
It detects satelites with the red led blinking. I have one battery in a 14500 round size with 1500 mah printed on the shrinkwrap.
I am currently testing with this for the endurance time as proof of concept.
Paco.
If you change the GPS type, you need to change the setting" GPS_type" in the configuration to AUTODETECT@Boot
With the next boot, the logger will do again auto-detecting for baud rate and gps type.
Greetings, Jan.
Select to expand quoterp6conrad said..PacoRaapNL said..
Question for the pro's :-)
Firmware 5.80
Should I change any settings compared to a BN-220 which works fine and is detected as M8.
With the BE-220 it says initlializing GPS but nothing happens.
It detects satelites with the red led blinking. I have one battery in a 14500 round size with 1500 mah printed on the shrinkwrap.
I am currently testing with this for the endurance time as proof of concept.
Paco.
If you change the GPS type, you need to change the setting" GPS_type" in the configuration to AUTODETECT@Boot
With the next boot, the logger will do again auto-detecting for baud rate and gps type.
Greetings, Jan.
Thanks Jan,
This works.
Still waiting for the correct battery.
Instead of M3 screws and bronze bushings M2 screws and M2 nuts.
In this version the battery and the SD card is underneath the white paper
In this version the original SD location and the GPS above the white paper.
Hallo,
I just did a short testrun. This are the final results:
Beside the Battery and Charging unit it is the same Hardware and Firmware.
What you guys are thinking?
