Fantastic work guy's, fangy was sorting out foundries and nutting out the fangy fillet a few years back before i stopped windsurfing, the fin looks great and a shame I'm not sailing to give it a blast 
^Agree wholeheartedly with the sentiment. Keef was a major influence on my fin thinking - Standing on the Shoulders of Giants to see further' sort of thing so, whatever Keef has on his workbench right now will be all that is needed if he wants to get his bum wet again.
Absolutely fangman, I'm a horder everything is still there ,there's a matter of putting it all together 
I'm into modifying cars , but mite put the gear together for a warm windy westerly at primbee this winter, I have a new new shallow water fin to try,
Inspired years ago by the fangman but never got around to make it,
Keep up the good work your killing it
Tested the Green Machine FF22 3d print with flex trailing edge on pretty choppy Albany day yesterday with encouraging results. Unfortunately I hit a submerged object like a rock/razor clam early on. The 3d print was fine but turns out DiChloroMethane does not weld to mono film like it does with PETG so the trailing edge was pulled out of its slot about 2cm and flapping around. Had to get back and travelling 30-32kts in the weed meant the trailing edge was pulled further out. Used some scissors to cut the bottom 6cm or so off and continued sailing. Fin didn't feel quite as solid as before but at least the remaining trailing edge stayed in place for the rest of the day.
Spent the day swapping boards and between this fin and the regular Al Fangy. By a long way the 3d printed fin felt completed locked in and solid in chop both upwind and downwind. I spent a lot of time in the big chop areas trying to either make it break or spin out which it did neither. The regular Fangy spun out a lot more and felt quite dangerous in comparison. (Again, this fin is worn so it's not a true comparison).
Polars below tell more of the story. On big board (97litre) pointed 3 deg better upwind than regular Al Fangy before I hit the rock and lost the bottom 1/3 of flex edge. After that incident it it pointed the same as FF but Fangy was way sketchier/dangerous. Switching to the smaller 86 litre board, the damaged flex fin pointed better by 1 deg than the undamaged flex fin on larger board and a wopping 9 deg better than the regular FF. Even in the big chop in the middle on 2nd time out still did 3 deg better than the normal Al Fangy dealing with less chop. (this is on both tacks) Zero weed issues with no gasket, felt the safest on this fin and zero structural issues.... Top speed was also on the printed fin (33.79kt).
Already replaced the flexy edge using epoxy like previous fin to secure and need to test further/maybe borrow a fresh FF22 to compare before trying the idea on different fins etc. 
Had a good look at Flex's prints the other day, and I'm really impressed!
For a fangy type delta I think they are the optimum way to go.
The fin shape restricts flex enough. (on a pointer they'd need stiffening).
They are lighter than a fangy.
They are much cheaper and easier to make, (if you have a 3D printer), than any other process.
But most impressive is wear resistance, after extensive use at Lilacs, no sign of abrasion on the leading edge, apart from on the tip, due to too shallow water and rocks. Possibly not as good as my stainless leading edge, but it would be a close run thing between a flex and a fangy.
But just don't try and order one!
Buy a 3D printer and make your own.
Time for an update. I have been continuing to play with the FangyFin code that generates a 3D CAD model given and outline and some geometric parameters. It works reasonably well now, but is not particularly robust, so the code tends to fall over more often than it should. I added a Bambu 3D printer to the toys in the shed and have now progressed to churning out a fin or two. The fin below is to investigate higher chord thickness, (12%) coupled with an increased concavity in the trailing third of the profile.
I used Flex's technique of PETG filament shell filled with epoxy. The infill is 10% so it was a cinch to pour the resin. The carbon rod stiffeners are whatever diameter I could fit. I some cases I used old carbon sail battens filled with epoxy and then stuffed bundles of smaller diameter rods inside. I was aiming for slightly increased flexibility along the trailing edge, but super stiff in the main body. The stainless rods are epoxied in situ with no nut. The experiment here being to investigate whether the long section of thread will provide enough anchorage on its own. I have done away with preloading the printed PETG model under compression. I want to see if the high amount of carbon rod and epoxy can do all the heavy lifting in this layout.
I also attempted to print a Tuttlebox mould and create this section just by pouring resin. I failed spectacularly when I forgot to put separator on the inside of my mould. After cutting away the 3D print like a drunk blind man swatting mosquitos, the resulting tuttlebox is rather rough and ready. Next job is to get it wet. And if its worthy, finish and polish it up to a decent level and see how long it lasts.
