My new replacement quad

Dear Rider

How big is that biatch from last year ?

If it will carry a 95kg chap in marginal conditions PM me

Agreed... but it might be my fault too

Mike I think you missed a few bits with the spray gun on the bottom

seriously though, top work as usual and look forward to sharing a wave with ya soon

Looking good Mike.

Looks good R1der
I like the square tail
good for lip slides!
What sandwich are you using? 5mm top & bottom?

I was going to start a topic the other day to see if anyone else still builds their own boards
so hope you dont mind me adding pic of my new 'backyard' built quad too.
95Litre - 229 x 60 (38 tail)

CNC has revitalised my interest in building. This one ended up
95% shaped straight off the machine. Only a light rub down (to remove the machine cuts) was necessary and it was ready for sandwich.

Yours looks very good too!
I'd like to get my ideas onto a pc and then cnc shape it, but I dont have access to cnc plus I would have a steep learning curve for the program.
I used to use 5mm 80 kg top and bottom my last few boards have been 100kg 3mm deck and 75kg 8mm bottom. I like lots of carbon you might be able to see the 12cm wide 8oz carbon rail wrap on the bottom pic of my new quad and thats over the top of the normal 16 0z covering the rails. I'm not too fussed about the weight as I want them to last and last after putting in all that effort, boards under 6kg don't seem to last. Windies wave hog is about 8 years old has had a hiding, rammed a few other boards ( accidentally I hear) and is still going strong.
Yeah where did you get your pads from?


It helps with trim when getting going and going along, supposedly different shapes change the riding characteristic and affect how you leave the wave when jumping.
If you take too much off then the nose may sit too high and it may push water and not plane as well as it could have. But sometimes you've just gotta take a chance to see what will happen.
This new board was planned and started out as a pin tail, but after I shaped the bottom and deck, my artistic side came out and I thought what the Feck, it'll look better as a squash tail, so I sawed of about 4cm and reshaped it.

Seeing as though you love EVO's also, a 2005 EVO 92 would be dirt cheap now.
If you don't like it, bung in slot boxes - piece of cake - and try as a thruster.

Or seeing as though you don't need it when it is windy, wait for a windy week, drill n tap the bugger and dry it out!

I think your 5mm - 8mm bottom is a good choice for aerial boards.
Every board I have built with 4mm or less bottom I have snapped.
I have a 6mm (top & bottom) 75L board that is now 10 years old. I have tried to break it over 2 seasons at Coro and failed. 6mm is pushing the limits of wrapping around the rails. Double 3mm would be easier.

However, I have actually gone the other way these days and going rediculously light (3mm top and bottom with super light glass&carbon layup).
My local wave spot (east coast) is waveriding only (wind too light and gusty on inside for jump) so may as well have a lighter board.

The pads are custom. I just got a roll of camo SUP deck grip and cut to shape. I put a surfboard 'kick' pad under the rear pad too.

Keep the backyard images coming...

More like need a bloody good tidy up

Ha ha looks familiar, test panels and bits, old vice, cups, calipers, bits of carbon, masking tape, mess, I've even got some of that resin
Calculator that's new to me.

It's all clean now!! This mess is all the useful stuff tho, and the most useful stuff works its way to the top of the pile, think it's called the volcano principle.. There is aso a Shaping block (these are awesome) and a Dremmil in that case!!

Under the bench you can just make out two fridge compressors, these are the crap kind which run the start-up power through a thermistor. The thermistor cannot start the compressor twice in a short period, which means they need to be run non-stop.. I have now finally found a Fridge pump without a thermistor! Very excited about this, no more regulating pressure with tactical holes in my Vac bag!!..

I use the calculator to multiply my resin weight by 1.25 to get an exact 4:1 ratio w/w.. It's a combination of having done too much Stoichiometry and having watched too much Breaking Bad.. With this setup I can just pour random weights of Resin and focus on getting the Hardener exact.. The scales are accurate to 0.1g.

I don't think Mr White would approve of the mess on my bench though..




I have done the whole 5mm AIREX thing and that was a pain in the bum hole.. Now using 3mm corecell or Kleegercell.. I routered out a 3mm depression in the blank under the standing area and adding an extra layer.. You can just make it out in this pic...



You can also see my Rocker Jig, it's a foam core encased in plywood and glassed together, and I use strips of MDF to adjust the rocker.. This was my solution to cutting a new jigs and stencils every time I want to change rocker, plus it's light!.

Also mahi, is that a finbox where your mast track should be??

Yep deck div wrap including mast div block at the same time is the most stressful bit especially if it's 5mm deck on a stinking hot day. Last year I was bagging on deck glass, just got it into the bag, the bag was pulling down when the power went off!!!!! Frickin power cut at 11 am on a 35 degree day. Power was out for 3 hours I ended up wrapping the board and vac bag with a few rolls of stretched packing tape, plus quickly made sandbags, that was stressful! but it worked

Just wonderin what stage this is? As I can't figure out whats goin on with the fin boxes??

Also what weight carbon is that? must be stiff.. I can't find anything less than 200g/m2

I'm also interested in what cloths you are using? Standard plain or twill weave carbon cloth in 3K (most common roving) is ~200g/m^2 to venture outside this the composite companies either use loose weaves or different roving cloths (1K etc) but this sort of stuff isn't that readily available as far as I can tell.

Talking about light carbon and d'cell thickness I am interested in 2 x 3mm d'cell with carbon tissue in between. Has anyone done that?

I've only partially routed it out and then rounded the edge, so I get a carbon supporting lip for the inserted box glass to adhere too. When dry I reroute the hole to the correct depth.