Y frame mini design hints?

I would build with the 35 as axles and the 40 as the chassis section, and the 60mm OD galtube as the leg of the Y
I wouldnt go past a 45degree with this material
and only a 35mm forward of the mast step,for lightness( I bent some 30 in this application. ) pins horizontal
can i suggest using this building execise as a chance to build something with small breakdown components making a really fun compact yacht for transporting.
earlier in the year i packed one of my nappyrush minis into all the little spaces in the car, just in case. we got an awsome sail on Goolwa beach and pt germein as a reward. If the mini had been bulkier we probably wouldnt have taken it

heres the spring clips I was talking about. they are a riley product. I used to buy them in bags of 10 straight from the factory, they are cheap so when you parts shopping buy a handful( or a bag). they are perfect in 30mm


and would be fine in 35 but 40 would be starting to stretch the usefulness.
you can see the locking bolt I use to get a firm finish.

I would stick with the square. round tenssile tube would be better,but we are starting to drift from the simplecheap available ethos with the yacht.
(ok yes i may be a leader in that, but Im lucky in my material availability.)
sorry ive never mentioned the little poppers before, I didnt want to complicate a simple design

OK Lachlan, I blame you for this.

So i pottering around the shed, I've got two mini chassis on the go, (new one for me and one for a mate!). I'm looking around the shed at the 25NB Medium wall pipe, (34OD x 3.5WT) I've pretty much convinced myself that the Y frame idea would be heavier than the standard LLM design. But hey i'll just weld some of this stuff together and have a look. Well it weighs about 6kg at this point. It'll need some bracing to stiffen it up but it might be alright. I can jump on it at this point withour too much flex. The Overall dimensions are about the same as a LLM.












Now what to do? I'll have to finish the LLM chassis i've started......Don't I?

so far the outside dimensions are the same as a llm.

This is the right way up, however at the highest point it is only about 90mm off the ground. I was considering the idea of Iand's by putting the split under the knees. The only reason for not making it flat is by adding some triangulation, i can support it better with bracing. Hopefully weld this in on the weekend.


There is no way i am not building this is there?

No worries, I take the responsibility and will say "your welcome".

Lachlan always be aware of your sheet rope dragging along behind you. If it gets under your wheel you may suddenly find yourself goiong in an unexpected direction i.e. tipped over as it will jam under the wheel ripping it from your hands and damaging the rope. A good idea is to tie the free end to your seat belt, that way if you inadvetantly let it go, it will be easy to find.
Also I noticed in this video that the foot of you sail was quite 'baggy' as the boom seemed too short. A longer boom would allow more outhaul giving you a flatter sail and a bit more speed and we all like a bit more speed

Thanks for the advice. I was making an effort to keep track of the sheet rope while sailing, not let it drag behind but sometimes Im having too much fun to notice. Never thought of tying it to the seatbelt though, seems obvious now.

The sailing site, and surrounding claypans, are the high spots in the area so long term flooding isn't an issue. We had 22mm of rain last Wednesday and I was out on the pan sailing again on Friday (the weather was sunny and 35 degrees).

Unfortunately we couldn't drive across to check out the larger claypans to the west due to the rain. The one I was on is in the centre of the second of my pics ( www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/Land-Yacht-Sailing/General/Goggle-Earthlandyacht-locations/ ) Next time...

And didn't get away totally unscathed

At least you know how it was built to easily repair it

Cheers Col

how far from Bendigo and can you camp

Should name it "Humpty Dumpty"!
After all, ya broke it's shell

Humpty Dumpty! I don't crash that much and this is only its first breakage, give me a break [}:)] Plus, it will all go back together again

Thanks Ron. Yes, I will do a bit of sanding and glass the outside of the seams. There a still a couple of things to get right with the seat before I would totally glass it (for one; everytime I flip over the seat scoops a shovelfull of dirt into the seat). Next time...

Also, what do you mean by "...also take a little off of the front under your heels..."? Not sure what your getting at (yes, again ).

OK! Lachy,
I have your attention??Hmm? I was watching your footage and noted the closeness to the ground of your seat bottom at the very front, it would appear to almost brush the ground under rougher conditions. Giver that your heels do not come all the way forward to that bottom cnr ( It is hard to see exactly how it is designed) I reckon you could lose about a 50mm chamfer there and not effect your space inside and save ripping the seat apart on a rock or tree root. Just a thought Bud, I had to do that on Occum's Razor shortly after it's launch.
Ron

reason I asked Glenn, was when I was considering a class 5 it's one of the things that attracted me to the FED 5 vs the pacific magic-the frame didn't have to be extended for the sheeting, less of the seat is unsupported,having a flatter Y, in general the FED 5 excited me more than the Pacific Magic, these reasons plus mid boom sheeting is why I suggested a design larger than a LL mini might be an interesting design
Ian

My apologies Lachlan I thought we were still on track of the original thread "Y frame design"
Ian