I know, i know, I have a partner that preferred wheels, and if he is stumping up half, he gets wheels 
. Can't please everyone. It is not the first by any means, but the majority are tiller boats. The 12.50 has a single long tiller, so there wasn't much feel compared to the smaller twin tillers on the 30.
It has the cruiser cons, or pros dependent upon viewpoint, but is still well under tare weight, this was my main concern ie: ruining what is was good at, and that is light and fast.
So far so good, all the numbers stack up and sit on the right side of the ledger.
SB
Select to expand quoteHG02 said..
Spent the day removing the sealant between the hull and the teak rub rail on both sides gave them both a sand and scrubbed them both with Feast & Watsons wood cleaner. Hopefully tomorrow it will be warn enough to vanish the teak after Sikaflexing the the join. One of the many jobs on the to do list. Want to get it done before winter sets in
hayden,
the easiest way to remove all the caulk between the hull and rub rail is a multitool with a scraper attachment. jam the tool between and it peels out very easily in lng pieces.
Hi Bubble
I modified a kitchen knife ground a hook into it it worked ok thanks for the info .
I still have not used the scraper but will on the hull next year
First coat of epoxy Ill probably do at least three more then vanish with Feast Watson marine vanish the star board side has seen a lot of weather and been sanded far to many times. I'm hoping the epoxy will keep it more protected and when it needs redoing I can just sand back the vanish and re vanish
Spent 2 hours retracing all the new wiring that I replaced for my nav lights. Finally I discovered that the replacement LED bulbs only work one way and I had both upside down. Duh!!!
Fitted new interior lights in the cabin and the head. $49 from Whitworths they have 2 modes, white and red.
My autohelm 3000 failed to work the other week so I pulled out the volt meter and was disappointed to trace it back to the autohelm. I quickly discovered the cause of the problem - the power wires pulled right out!
So I had to open it up. I was a bit worried looking and the screws and recalling a funny thing I read on a blog - "If it's 30/40 years old and you dismantle it, it's broken".
But a few drops of Inox on each screw and they came out easy as.
And I was amazed and delighted to find an immaculate interior, almost exactly as it was manufactured on 26/05/1987 (according to the sticker). They don't make things like they used to! I'd be tempted to buy the wind vane attachment for this if I could source one.
It was also the first time I've really seen a 360 degree gimbal. I know they use them in the gyrocams on the back of the MotoGP bikes. They're very cool. Would be good to have one of those for the GoPro - I believe you can get them.
Anyway, reconnected the plug and screwed it all back together. It's rare to get jobs as easy as that on a boat, eh???
Select to expand quoteDrRog said..
My autohelm 3000 failed to work the other week so I pulled out the volt meter and was disappointed to trace it back to the autohelm. I quickly discovered the cause of the problem - the power wires pulled right out!
So I had to open it up. I was a bit worried looking and the screws and recalling a funny thing I read on a blog - "If it's 30/40 years old and you dismantle it, it's broken".
But a few drops of Inox on each screw and they came out easy as.
And I was amazed and delighted to find an immaculate interior, almost exactly as it was manufactured on 26/05/1987 (according to the sticker). They don't make things like they used to! I'd be tempted to buy the wind vane attachment for this if I could source one.
It was also the first time I've really seen a 360 degree gimbal. I know they use them in the gyrocams on the back of the MotoGP bikes. They're very cool. Would be good to have one of those for the GoPro - I believe you can get them.
Anyway, reconnected the plug and screwed it all back together. It's rare to get jobs as easy as that on a boat, eh???
Easy for you Dr Rog... I'm still struggling with using the volt meter.... Electrical stuff is not my forte at all.
Select to expand quoteJolene said..
Your really going to town Andy, new sail and all,,, What's the go with your hand rails? are you making some new ones?
No I took them off because I wanted to the bolts had corroded and some of the end grain plugs were loose and in bad shape and it was easier to paint with them off. Hopefully i will fit them back on next week.
Select to expand quoteSandS said..
mmmm festool !!!! nice sander !!!!
ha ha S and S Festool is my weakness
Select to expand quoteShaggybaxter said..Gravy7 said..
Shaggybaxter, where is your Pogo 12.5 being built? I was unfamiliar with the design and found this image on line - and now I'm very excited.
When will she be ready to sail and where do you plan to keep her?
She is being constructed in Combrit, in Sth Brittany.
Structures, have had a lot of experience in the Open 40's and Mini-Transats, and this is their cruiser racer version of the Pogo 40s. Lots of years of research went into this decision, and Pogo just kept ticking all the boxes .
Splashes end of September, and we hope to have her in the water in Brisbane, her new home, by Xmas (fingers crossed). Doing lots of research into the shipping and import stuff at the mo!
Thats one fast looking cruiser Shaggy. Looks awesome.
After mucking around trying to half furl the genoa in 25 to 30 knots I decided to fit a clutch which should make things easier next time.
That looks pretty neat Andy. That looks like one of those "now why didn't I think of that" ideas!
Getting closer to becoming a real boy....This is the hull mould being scrubbed and cleaned before the layup work starts.
We opted for vinylester as the plan is to keep the boat for a while. It isn't cheap, (added about $6K to the hull price) but the long term protection offsets the cost.
Now I know this is nothing to you fellas...but this was an achievement for me and my son today getting thus back up. It was taken down and restitched in my absence so I didn't get to see how it came down. It was hard getting it back up as the sheaves at top of mast are seized. (Another job in the queue ). Very happy to not be sharing my v berth with that sail anymore
Sikens very where on deck photos forward cabin two pack under coat photos tomorrow where you like it or not Loose exchange swishy beats reds every time 
Turned this into boat dollars tonight pay for my boat rigging
Select to expand quoteHG02 said..
Sikens very where on deck photos forward cabin two pack under coat photos tomorrow where you like it or not Loose exchange swishy beats reds every time
Turned this into boat dollars tonight pay for my boat rigging
How much did you get for it if you don't mind me asking Hugh Grant?
Select to expand quoteHG02 said..
Sikens very where on deck photos forward cabin two pack under coat photos tomorrow where you like it or not Loose exchange swishy beats reds every time
I swear half the time I have no idea what you are trying to say R2D2
Select to expand quoteandy59 said..
After mucking around trying to half furl the genoa in 25 to 30 knots I decided to fit a clutch which should make things easier next time.
Remember my brilliant idea to fit a clutch on my furler? Well it was about 20knots and lumpy today so i decided to half unfurl the genoa and let the clutch hold the furler line. After about 5 minutes I realised the furling had inched its way throughout the block and now there was a tangled mess of furling line and genoa sheet tail jammed hard up against the block.
Turns out I think I must have installed the clutch back to front. Next time I bolt something on to the boat I am going to find out which way it goes first. 
Select to expand quoteandy59 said..
andy59 said..
After mucking around trying to half furl the genoa in 25 to 30 knots I decided to fit a clutch which should make things easier next time.
Remember my brilliant idea to fit a clutch on my furler? Well it was about 20knots and lumpy today so i decided to half unfurl the genoa and let the clutch hold the furler line. After about 5 minutes I realised the furling had inched its way throughout the block and now there was a tangled mess of furling line and genoa sheet tail jammed hard up against the block.
Turns out I think I must have installed the clutch back to front. Next time I bolt something on to the boat I am going to find out which way it goes first.
Well I was looking at that when you posted it and thought the top of the photo must be aft and vice versa bottom. I think the idea is great for finer adjustments of furling. Fortunately you do not have to drill more holes, just unbolt and reverse 180 degrees on the clutch.
Must have been dramas in 20 knots.
What I have been doing to my boat is refinishing my beautiful 5 foot long tiller. It is laminated construction and probably as old as the boat.
First job was to strip off all the old coating. Second job was to eliminate the slack in the tiller extension attachment.
There is nothing worse when steering a yacht to have that klunk klunk caused by slack in the steering somewhere.
Having stripped the timber back to bare the first thing was to give it a mop with turps to open up the grain a tad and assist absorbtion of the first coat of oil based varnish. I looked at all clear coat paints available here and I am not a fan of two pack products due to the complexity of mixing small amounts for each coat and clean up. Quality brushes are not cheap and usually a brush used with two pack is buggered after one use. Oil based coatings can be patch repaired.
The paints I looked at were:-
1. Haymes exterior varnish. Top quality product as all Haymes paints are. An oil based paint, turps thinned and clean up and nice and simple which is what I want. Price..$50/1 tin.
2. Deks Olje. No doubt top quality too coming from "The Flood Company" but complicated. It needs No.1 and No.2, base and finish and requires a solvent thinner and clean up. Price..$70/ 2 x 1/2l tins.
3. Norglass, recommended by commercial users, a bit more expensive and requiring a solvent thinner/clean up.
4. International Gold Spar. A varnish that is solvent based.
Price...$50/litre
5. Intergrain Exterior Acrylic Clear. I was seriously considering this as I have used Cabots CFP (water based) on timber flooring with excellent results. It is as tough as nails. Price ...$50/litre
6. Feast Watson Exterior Clear Varnish. It was in the same shop as the Intergrain and the paint guy leaned heavily to the quality of it.
Price $65/litre. That is what I bought. Nothing is too good for my boat. 
So I put the first coat on yesterday with a top quality 50 m brush and I am allowing 36 hours before I touch it again due to the turps wipe I gave it and to allow the first coat to fully cure. Tomorrow I will give it a light dry sand with 350 grit paper. This will be repeated four times between the next 6 coats to achieve a deep gloss of 7 coats of varnish on the tiller to respect the 7 sons of the sailor man.
This is what it looked like a year ago and the laminated panel below it will get the same treatment.
It's time to fit the teak rails back on to the cabin top. Unfortunately the timber has decayed around some of the end grain dowels that concealed the bolts. I am going to fill the holes with epoxy and teak dust and re- drill them. Hopefully that will look passable, if not I might have to buy some teak and make some new rails.
Select to expand quotecisco said..
What I have been doing to my boat is refinishing my beautiful 5 foot long tiller. It is laminated construction and probably as old as the boat.
First job was to strip off all the old coating. Second job was to eliminate the slack in the tiller extension attachment.
There is nothing worse when steering a yacht to have that klunk klunk caused by slack in the steering somewhere.
Having stripped the timber back to bare the first thing was to give it a mop with turps to open up the grain a tad and assist absorbtion of the first coat of oil based varnish. I looked at all clear coat paints available here and I am not a fan of two pack products due to the complexity of mixing small amounts for each coat and clean up. Quality brushes are not cheap and usually a brush used with two pack is buggered after one use. Oil based coatings can be patch repaired.
The paints I looked at were:-
1. Haymes exterior varnish. Top quality product as all Haymes paints are. An oil based paint, turps thinned and clean up and nice and simple which is what I want. Price..$50/1 tin.
2. Deks Olje. No doubt top quality too coming from "The Flood Company" but complicated. It needs No.1 and No.2, base and finish and requires a solvent thinner and clean up. Price..$70/ 2 x 1/2l tins.
3. Norglass, recommended by commercial users, a bit more expensive and requiring a solvent thinner/clean up.
4. International Gold Spar. A varnish that is solvent based.
Price...$50/litre
5. Intergrain Exterior Acrylic Clear. I was seriously considering this as I have used Cabots CFP (water based) on timber flooring with excellent results. It is as tough as nails. Price ...$50/litre
6. Feast Watson Exterior Clear Varnish. It was in the same shop as the Intergrain and the paint guy leaned heavily to the quality of it.
Price $65/litre. That is what I bought. Nothing is too good for my boat.
So I put the first coat on yesterday with a top quality 50 m brush and I am allowing 36 hours before I touch it again due to the turps wipe I gave it and to allow the first coat to fully cure. Tomorrow I will give it a light dry sand with 350 grit paper. This will be repeated four times between the next 6 coats to achieve a deep gloss of 7 coats of varnish on the tiller to respect the 7 sons of the sailor man.
This is what it looked like a year ago and the laminated panel below it will get the same treatment.
Cant wait to see the finished product Cisco.
I hear what you are saying. What I was thinking of was filling the holes with an epoxy /teak dust bog, then drilling them out again so that a half inch end grain dowel will fit neatly in the hole and conceal the countersunk bolt head.
Even though the rails look like they might have sagged, the curve is cut into the rails so that they fit the cabin top.
I might be missing something but Im not sure how increasing the depth of the holes would help.
I have some spare plugs I can post to you if you need them. I made them out of an old teak table i bought for $100
Whilst not strictly a sail boat, the little Tugboat does have a mast and will have a steadying mainsail attached.
You can all shout me down if you like!
Finally got the windows, portholes and hatches done. She is now at lock-up stage.
Time to get some more fixtures installed down below.
Select to expand quoteCoolRunnings said..
Whilst not strictly a sail boat, the little Tugboat does have a mast and will have a steadying mainsail attached.
You can all shout me down if you like!
Finally got the windows, portholes and hatches done. She is now at lock-up stage.
Time to get some more fixtures installed down below.
I'm not going to shout you down !
How about some more specs on her?
the name rings a bell...... Afloat mag , sydney wooden boat show? What's her history or is it a new build?
It is a new build Southace. The designer is Ken Hankinson and the plans come from Glen-L USA.
She is only a 'pup' @ 21.5 ft in length with a beam @ 8.5ft. A 30hp inboard diesel(Beta) with shaft.
This project has been on the go for a number of years now and the basic construction is in 'ally'.
I am however trying to maintain a traditional look as well, hence the timber work, which is more my forte'.
Had posted a couple of pics sometime ago of the bare hull but more recently of the PSS shaft seal set up, for Crusoe's benefit on the forum.
Since selling the Northshore 33 last November, the pressure is on now to finish this one off in order to keep the mooring at Wollongong.
Have been a little shy in putting her out there, but anyway, it's been fun so far.
