Like all the other wiring on your boat should be tinned wire so should the coax cable be for your antenna systems, this applies to both the centre conductor and the shielding. Anything else is false economy. Yes it has to be 50 ohm not the 75 ohm Dick Smith rubbish you had.
Select to expand quoteLooseChange said..
...not the 75 ohm Dick Smith rubbish you had.
Thanks, I'm Really struggling to ubderstand how this could be a reasinable thing to install.... and it not even tinned ! It's amazing to think that previous owners toured Bass Strait many times with this cable. Reception could be quite good at times, but transmission was dodgy.
A
Select to expand quoteshaggybaxter said..Andrew68 said..
I am about to replace my problematic VHF mast aerial. The current cable appears to be coax vc2095.
I'm planning to replace with RG213U and it's going to be a bugger of a job.
Hi Andrew,
I thought (almost sure) VC2095 was 75ohm coaxial cable, which is used for baseband and broadband video signals, like your cctv camera or tv aerial coax.
This would definitely be the wrong cable for your vhf, where you need 50 ohm coax like rg58 (6mm) and RG213 (12mm)
Im surprised it worked at all!
I got our local rigger to help me put in the new cable down the mast. It took almost 3 hours to get the 12mm RG213 down there and the new reception is amazing. Tonight in St Kilda, I picked up a sked on VHF channel 68 that I thought said was Tas Maritme Radio. Not sure if that was possible, but it is definitely working very well.
A
The next thing I have been working on is a weeping diesel fuel line. I drained the tank 4 times before I found that the problem was in fact a cracked connector fitting. First I glassed up a suspect weld in the tank sump, then re-did the all the joints twice with two different thread sealant before I found the crack. As I have said before it feels like I am doomed to replace everything metal of this boat that is over 20 years old. This connector is between the cut of valve and the tank, so if it let go on passage I would have lost 60 L into the bilge with no easy way to repair it.
Here it is after I opened it up a bit.
Okay you may need some imagination, can anyone guess what I am home building here?
I have always hankered for one of those Slick headsail pre-feeders, but I just can't bring myself to handing over $125
no no I would much rather spend two hours in the shed with the lathe and latter on the TIG.
i need to work on a neat solution for the lanyard tie off, any ideas?
cheers Richard
Select to expand quoteStockie said..
Okay you may need some imagination, can anyone guess what I am home building here?
I have always hankered for one of those Slick headsail pre-feeders, but I just can't bring myself to handing over $125
no no I would much rather spend two hours in the shed with the lathe and latter on the TIG.
i need to work on a neat solution for the lanyard tie off, any ideas?
cheers Richard
I would just weld a ring on the end of the small T and splice on a lanyard.
Due to the heavy dew my trusty chart c70 plotter LCD went haywire! Lucky my chart table contained a c80 which is larger with similar functions after some expensive google searches I decided to swap them over,polished the stainless steel and added a few cable ties. At least I have radar and a very unused large chart map now to send me over the horizon! All done in 25 knots at anchor. I love boats!
I worked on removing the previous owners "improvement" of bog at the bottom of the sail track. 
Finally got enough out and was able to raise some purdy new sails!
Select to expand quotePlaneray said..
I worked on removing the previous owners "improvement" of bog at the bottom of the sail track.
Finally got enough out and was able to raise some purdy new sails!
They look great Planeray! Did it feel like the same boat??
I had just finished repairing the exhaust manidfold and elbow on the Volvo Penta, and the very first outing the crew reported a weird sucking noise coming from the rear technical area under the cockpit. Preliminary investigation found a pinhole in the muffler squirting salt water on any revs above 1500rpm.
After sweating and swearing an awful lot, I finally managed to get it out, hopefully effect repairs tonight and back in tomorrow.
Considering it is only 3yrs old, I'm not overly impressed with Volvo's alleged reliability, as that's now the manifold, exhaust elbow and the muffler.
We'll have a good look for any other weak spots after sand blasting it, I'm hoping we can find any other issues before re-installing, the space to work in is nowhere near as bad a some boats I've worked on ,but it's still a bitch fiddling with stiff exhaust hoses in a cramped space.
This was the exhaust elbow, you can see how badly it was blocked due to carbon buildup.
Seems pretty ordinary considering it's only just turned 3 and has been serviced at the regular intervals!
Remind me why do we have boats again ?
Select to expand quoteshaggybaxter said..
I had just finished repairing the exhaust manidfold and elbow on the Volvo Penta, and the very first outing the crew reported a weird sucking noise coming from the rear technical area under the cockpit. Preliminary investigation found a pinhole in the muffler squirting salt water on any revs above 1500rpm.
After sweating and swearing an awful lot, I finally managed to get it out, hopefully effect repairs tonight and back in tomorrow.
Considering it is only 3yrs old, I'm not overly impressed with Volvo's alleged reliability, as that's now the manifold, exhaust elbow and the muffler.
We'll have a good look for any other weak spots after sand blasting it, I'm hoping we can find any other issues before re-installing, the space to work in is nowhere near as bad a some boats I've worked on ,but it's still a bitch fiddling with stiff exhaust hoses in a cramped space.
This was the exhaust elbow, you can see how badly it was blocked due to carbon buildup.
Seems pretty ordinary considering it's only just turned 3 and has been serviced at the regular intervals!
Remind me why do we have boats again ?
For the fun of working on them of course....
Stainless steel, salt water and diesel exhaust gases don't like each other especially the welds. Fibreglass waterlock muffler is the go.
Select to expand quotetroubadour said..
Stainless steel, salt water and diesel exhaust gases don't like each other especially the welds. Fibreglass waterlock muffler is the go.
Thanks Troubadour, I'd not heard of them, but I'll definitely look them up. It's not like Volvo are cheap on their spare parts.
Cheers!
SB
We only discovered the problem with stainless wetlocks when a sistership with which we were friends nearly sank on a coastal passage.
We stuck an IPhone down and took a photo of the bottom of ours and found the same thing about to happen.
About 10 years old. An easy fix, but not a cheap one.
But we'd never heard of the issue before.
No worries shaggy
There was aguy in Sydney Foreshore Marine from memory in Taren Point who specialized in glass mufflers elbows etc
I have made my own. Pretty easy if you are used to working with glass
...aand I am now glad I went through the effort to get it out and have a good look. After a quick bead blast, what I thought was one wee hole turned out to have lots of mates.
I could easily imagine the little dots all connecting together one day and becoming a much more problematic ..err...big dot.
Rather sobering. Reminds me of electrolysis. Ended up brazing the whole area, put it all back together tomorrow!
Finished antifouling the new boat today...and sadly, I also found out what a spun hub sounds like on an outboard. Luckily, there was a breeze up early in the morning, so I was able to just raise sails and get back over to the club.
Now my biggest problem is, between this and some new sails, I've gotta come up with some new excuses as to why I'm not winning at the club!
Not my boat but spliced this up today.
Halyard with integrated soft shackle.
Means no shackle to fail or fall out of the splice and go 'splash '.
Also ideal for a Genoa halyard onto a furler swivel as there is no wear on the swivel from an I'll fitting shackle
Select to expand quoterumblefish said..
Not my boat but spliced this up today.
Halyard with integrated soft shackle.
Means no shackle to fail or fall out of the splice and go 'splash '.
Also ideal for a Genoa halyard onto a furler swivel as there is no wear on the swivel from an I'll fitting shackle
I have a soft in the middle of my continuous jig sheet.
Loved it at first. Now it is getting hard to slide the plastic ring up and down. Thinking of ditching it.
Is there a way of lubricanting it without doing harm to the shackle?
Also noticed Rumblefish, that you dont have one on yours.
Could I remove the one on mine. Yours is a lot thicker than mine.
Select to expand quotevalo said..rumblefish said..
Not my boat but spliced this up today.
Halyard with integrated soft shackle.
Means no shackle to fail or fall out of the splice and go 'splash '.
Also ideal for a Genoa halyard onto a furler swivel as there is no wear on the swivel from an I'll fitting shackle
I have a soft in the middle of my continuous jig sheet.
Loved it at first. Now it is getting hard to slide the plastic ring up and down. Thinking of ditching it.
Is there a way of lubricanting it without doing harm to the shackle?
Also noticed Rumblefish, that you dont have one on yours.
Could I remove the one on mine. Yours is a lot thicker than mine.
Plastic ring? You mean to help keep the shackle together?
Yeah get rid of it.
Boat I race on uses soft shackles on the sheets with no keeper ring, never had one come open.
If you're worried, replace with some double sided velcro
Select to expand quoterumblefish said..valo said..rumblefish said..
Not my boat but spliced this up today.
Halyard with integrated soft shackle.
Means no shackle to fail or fall out of the splice and go 'splash '.
Also ideal for a Genoa halyard onto a furler swivel as there is no wear on the swivel from an I'll fitting shackle
I have a soft in the middle of my continuous jig sheet.
Loved it at first. Now it is getting hard to slide the plastic ring up and down. Thinking of ditching it.
Is there a way of lubricanting it without doing harm to the shackle?
Also noticed Rumblefish, that you dont have one on yours.
Could I remove the one on mine. Yours is a lot thicker than mine.
Plastic ring? You mean to help keep the shackle together?
Yeah get rid of it.
Boat I race on uses soft shackles on the sheets with no keeper ring, never had one come open.
If you're worried, replace with some double sided velcro
Yes. A keeper ring.
I just tried to find a pic of it on Google but no good. None had the ring I am talking about.
Looks like this one, but with a ring that slides up to lock the loop.
I'll definitely get rid of it. Thanks.
Select to expand quotevalo said..rumblefish said..
Not my boat but spliced this up today.
Halyard with integrated soft shackle.
Means no shackle to fail or fall out of the splice and go 'splash '.
Also ideal for a Genoa halyard onto a furler swivel as there is no wear on the swivel from an I'll fitting shackle
I have a soft in the middle of my continuous jig sheet.
Loved it at first. Now it is getting hard to slide the plastic ring up and down. Thinking of ditching it.
Is there a way of lubricanting it without doing harm to the shackle?
Also noticed Rumblefish, that you dont have one on yours.
Could I remove the one on mine. Yours is a lot thicker than mine.
I like to put a bit of whipping twine to help open the loop. We are also starting to use soft shackles in caving explorations because its so light and cheap. At first it was a bit strange to suspend on these things instead of a carabiner...
Select to expand quotecazou34 said..valo said..rumblefish said..
Not my boat but spliced this up today.
Halyard with integrated soft shackle.
Means no shackle to fail or fall out of the splice and go 'splash '.
Also ideal for a Genoa halyard onto a furler swivel as there is no wear on the swivel from an I'll fitting shackle
I have a soft in the middle of my continuous jig sheet.
Loved it at first. Now it is getting hard to slide the plastic ring up and down. Thinking of ditching it.
Is there a way of lubricanting it without doing harm to the shackle?
Also noticed Rumblefish, that you dont have one on yours.
Could I remove the one on mine. Yours is a lot thicker than mine.
I like to put a bit of whipping twine to help open the loop. We are also starting to use soft shackles in caving explorations because its so light and cheap. At first it was a bit strange to suspend on these things instead of a carabiner...
I've actually been doing them without tucking one inside the other.
A single tuck for the end loop then 2 separate lines into the diamond knot.
I like this method for 3 reasons;
- it's easier to get a spot on length as it doesn't shorten when spliced
- it handles chafe better as both lines are tight. With the above method I find the outer is a bit loose and can chafe and catch
- finally, after many uses with the above method, I find the tuck point gets messy
Select to expand quoterumblefish said..cazou34 said..valo said..rumblefish said..
Not my boat but spliced this up today.
Halyard with integrated soft shackle.
Means no shackle to fail or fall out of the splice and go 'splash '.
Also ideal for a Genoa halyard onto a furler swivel as there is no wear on the swivel from an I'll fitting shackle
I have a soft in the middle of my continuous jig sheet.
Loved it at first. Now it is getting hard to slide the plastic ring up and down. Thinking of ditching it.
Is there a way of lubricanting it without doing harm to the shackle?
Also noticed Rumblefish, that you dont have one on yours.
Could I remove the one on mine. Yours is a lot thicker than mine.
I like to put a bit of whipping twine to help open the loop. We are also starting to use soft shackles in caving explorations because its so light and cheap. At first it was a bit strange to suspend on these things instead of a carabiner...
I've actually been doing them without tucking one inside the other.
A single tuck for the end loop then 2 separate lines into the diamond knot.
I like this method for 3 reasons;
- it's easier to get a spot on length as it doesn't shorten when spliced
- it handles chafe better as both lines are tight. With the above method I find the outer is a bit loose and can chafe and catch
- finally, after many uses with the above method, I find the tuck point gets messy
Is there a video for dummies on how to do this?
Select to expand quotevalo said..rumblefish said..cazou34 said..valo said..rumblefish said..
Not my boat but spliced this up today.
Halyard with integrated soft shackle.
Means no shackle to fail or fall out of the splice and go 'splash '.
Also ideal for a Genoa halyard onto a furler swivel as there is no wear on the swivel from an I'll fitting shackle
I have a soft in the middle of my continuous jig sheet.
Loved it at first. Now it is getting hard to slide the plastic ring up and down. Thinking of ditching it.
Is there a way of lubricanting it without doing harm to the shackle?
Also noticed Rumblefish, that you dont have one on yours.
Could I remove the one on mine. Yours is a lot thicker than mine.
I like to put a bit of whipping twine to help open the loop. We are also starting to use soft shackles in caving explorations because its so light and cheap. At first it was a bit strange to suspend on these things instead of a carabiner...
I've actually been doing them without tucking one inside the other.
A single tuck for the end loop then 2 separate lines into the diamond knot.
I like this method for 3 reasons;
- it's easier to get a spot on length as it doesn't shorten when spliced
- it handles chafe better as both lines are tight. With the above method I find the outer is a bit loose and can chafe and catch
- finally, after many uses with the above method, I find the tuck point gets messy
Is there a video for dummies on how to do this?
Google soft shackle, there is a million videos!!
Select to expand quoterumblefish said..valo said..rumblefish said..cazou34 said..valo said..rumblefish said..
Not my boat but spliced this up today.
Halyard with integrated soft shackle.
Means no shackle to fail or fall out of the splice and go 'splash '.
Also ideal for a Genoa halyard onto a furler swivel as there is no wear on the swivel from an I'll fitting shackle
I have a soft in the middle of my continuous jig sheet.
Loved it at first. Now it is getting hard to slide the plastic ring up and down. Thinking of ditching it.
Is there a way of lubricanting it without doing harm to the shackle?
Also noticed Rumblefish, that you dont have one on yours.
Could I remove the one on mine. Yours is a lot thicker than mine.
I like to put a bit of whipping twine to help open the loop. We are also starting to use soft shackles in caving explorations because its so light and cheap. At first it was a bit strange to suspend on these things instead of a carabiner...
I've actually been doing them without tucking one inside the other.
A single tuck for the end loop then 2 separate lines into the diamond knot.
I like this method for 3 reasons;
- it's easier to get a spot on length as it doesn't shorten when spliced
- it handles chafe better as both lines are tight. With the above method I find the outer is a bit loose and can chafe and catch
- finally, after many uses with the above method, I find the tuck point gets messy
Is there a video for dummies on how to do this?
Google soft shackle, there is a million videos!!
I know. I actually meant the specific way you do it.
But any way 
Select to expand quoterumblefish said..
Not my boat but spliced this up today.
Halyard with integrated soft shackle.
Means no shackle to fail or fall out of the splice and go 'splash '.
Also ideal for a Genoa halyard onto a furler swivel as there is no wear on the swivel from an I'll fitting shackle
Sweet!!!
Select to expand quoterumblefish said..
Not my boat but spliced this up today.
Halyard with integrated soft shackle.
Means no shackle to fail or fall out of the splice and go 'splash '.
Also ideal for a Genoa halyard onto a furler swivel as there is no wear on the swivel from an I'll fitting shackle
Hey Rumblefish, is that a button hole knot on the end (looks like it), I found an interesting u tube video which uses 2 eyesplices & an overhand knot instead
thanks
Geoff
Select to expand quoteG30ff0 said..rumblefish said..
Not my boat but spliced this up today.
Halyard with integrated soft shackle.
Means no shackle to fail or fall out of the splice and go 'splash '.
Also ideal for a Genoa halyard onto a furler swivel as there is no wear on the swivel from an I'll fitting shackle
Hey Rumblefish, is that a button hole knot on the end (looks like it), I found an interesting u tube video which uses 2 eyesplices & an overhand knot instead
thanks
Geoff
Yeah I've seen that method but yet to try.
The knot I use is a diamond knot, there a method on YouTube where you put the tails through your fingers, find it easy to follow
Put on my new dodger today. Got a second hand stainless frame, bought a $35 sewing machine, some canvas, plastic and leather and had a go at sewing my own. Sewing looks very "dodgey" up close, but it almost like a bought one from a few metres away.
Prepare to repel all boarders
