Started the procrastinated gunwale rail & chainplate rebuild. Playing the weather windows for welding and painting. Also a quick antifoul while on the hard
Mast out and began strip down today ,
rigging and chain plates to be attacked over the weekend
Select to expand quotewelsh said..
Mast out and began strip down today ,
rigging and chain plates to be attacked over the weekend
Obviously an established riggers yard. May I ask where ?
Select to expand quotewoko said..welsh said..
Mast out and began strip down today ,
rigging and chain plates to be attacked over the weekend
Obviously an established riggers yard. May I ask where ?
Looks like Joe Walsh's area and mast dolly.
Correct it is at Joe Walsh Hunters Hill Marina
will be replacing all the lights with LEDs
any suggestions on what to do while I've got it at this stage will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance to the brains trust
cheers, Walsh
How old is the mast? One spreader needs fixing obviously. Depends what your budget is - Joe will advise - does he allow you to do the fittings removal and re-rivet and re-bed and mast re-paint work?. Suggest if there is any paint bubbling on the mast paint adjacent to stainless fittings that all the rivets securing these are drilled out and the whole fitting removed. Wire brush and sand the mast, clean up the stainless, etch prime and 2 polyurethane re-coat the mast - would do the whole lot while you are at it - re-rivet the fittings with suitable strength monel or stainless rivets - use sufficient Tefgel to isolate the rivets and the stainless from the aluminium.
Good blogs here; Jolene's excellent input in the first one very similar to your needs I would expect.
www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/Sailing/General/mast-and-boom-paint?page=1
www.practical-sailor.com/sails-rigging-deckgear/revive-your-mast-like-a-pro-2
forums.ybw.com/index.php?threads/mast-refurbishment-cleaning.471040/
Hi r13. That spreader is my work of taking the mast apart. I most certainly am recoating it and replacing everything anew. Joe is really good. I'm doing a some of the work myself , which really helps with my learning and understanding of things. Unfortunately , we can't repaint it white as he is no longer allowed to spray paint on site. we will be taking it back to bare aluminium
cheers welsh
Ok. The third link above includes input from a person who rolled and tipped Interprotect and Toplac on to good results. I have brushed 3 mast re-paint jobs with etch primer and 2 pack polyurethane and was happy with the results. Need a good brush especially for the 2 topcoats.
The mast and boom are completely stripped. Every rivet, screw and attachment is off. going for LED lighting of course. Whilst I'm re-wiring it , are there any suggestions from the brains trust . I had to remove the tv antenna and wiring and was wondering do I need to replace that or do the modern tvs work without them. also was pondering whether to add a extra wire just in case of future needs/wants. Or am I just overthinking the whole process. cheers welsh
Congratulations on rebuilding and resurfacing your mast, I wish I had done the same thing when I had the chance.
Based on my own limited experience:
1) as you are doing, replace all the lighting with LEDs.
2) unless the existing VHF antenna and cabling is near new, replace both.
3) consider adding a second VHF antenna as an AIS or spare VHF antenna.
4) consider a wireless wind speed and direction sensor to reduce the cabling in the mast.
5) if the mast doesn't have one already, add a cable conduit down the inside of the mast to carry the wiring.
6) if the mast is keel-stepped, consider adding covers or hoods over the shroud entry and the halyard exit points to deflect water accumulating on the mast and stop it from running down the inside of the mast.
Good luck,
Kinora
Picked up my new (to me) boat yesterday and motored her from Rushcutters Bay to her new home in Hen and Chicken Bay at Abbotsford.
I was pretty nervous as to whether we would touch bottom in the Bay as it is very shallow in places and I am a fair way in. No active depth sounder on the boat yet.
Picked up my transducer from the old boat today. I am going to run all over the bay in my tender and map it so I know really how much water I am playing with.
Fitted a secondhand Asymmetrical Spinnaker and flew it for the first time whilst my yacht was on its trailer. Does it have to be able to tension down the leading edge for lighter air cruising only?
My previous fairly extensive experience was with conventional spinnakers only except for my daughters skiffs which could tension their leading edge to plane upwind which I definitely won't be doing!
Finally got around to getting my electric windlass working properly.
Has one directional drive to pull up but the release clutch for playing had been seized so couldn't readily play out the chain.
to date what would normally be the secondary anchor has been my ready use anchor.
The hefty dansforth with about 5 metres of chain and lots of rode (as pictured in that open forward l locker in the top picture.
The primary is a heaven CQR (currently stored down below) to use on all chain with windlass.
A new issue to resolve..
The hawse pipe down to the main locker has a very poorly positioned drop point.
Forms small pile near peaked section of locker which promptly stops winch from being able to freely feed more chain.
Plan A is too angle/extend the hawse-pipe back to a better drop-point . The locker has plenty of depth further back.
it looks like the previous owner situated the drop pipe so as not to impinge on v-berth space.
If plan A doesn't give a satisfactory improvement, plan B is to build the chain locker up.
Wildemann, good work getting the windlass to operate properly, a ceased cone clutch yes ? I'm surprised that any chain at all travels down that skinny pipe, and yes a bigger area for the chain to pyramid in will help, and a bigger ( much bigger) pipe will help as chain can pile up in there too. Stainless chain is much smoother and tends to pile up less and spread out more. Look for a bigger pipe, it's a lot cheaper than stainless chain !
Select to expand quotewoko said..
Wildemann, good work getting the windlass to operate properly, a ceased cone clutch yes ? I'm surprised that any chain at all travels down that skinny pipe, and yes a bigger area for the chain to pyramid in will help, and a bigger ( much bigger) pipe will help as chain can pile up in there too. Stainless chain is much smoother and tends to pile up less and spread out more. Look for a bigger pipe, it's a lot cheaper than stainless chain !
Thanks Woko.
Those sound like like good suggestions.
Select to expand quotewoko said..
Wildemann, good work getting the windlass to operate properly, a ceased cone clutch yes ? I'm surprised that any chain at all travels down that skinny pipe, and yes a bigger area for the chain to pyramid in will help, and a bigger ( much bigger) pipe will help as chain can pile up in there too. Stainless chain is much smoother and tends to pile up less and spread out more. Look for a bigger pipe, it's a lot cheaper than stainless chain !
Thanks Woko.
Those sound like like good suggestions.
Finally finished stripping the paint off the mast and boom. What a bloody time consuming (20+hours)tedious job. any hints of accelerating the process above applying paint stripper(several times) should be shared ??
on a side note, I am very glad that I persisted as I found a crack in the boom which I will be sleeving and welding to correct. I would not have found it had I not stripped the paint from it?
A lucky find indeed
Select to expand quotewelsh said..
Thanks in advance for any more tips on what else to do while I'm in this deep
Would a heat gun work?
Select to expand quotewelsh said..
Thanks in advance for any more tips on what else to do while I'm in this deep
Would a heat gun work?
Select to expand quotewoko said..
Wildemann, good work getting the windlass to operate properly, a ceased cone clutch yes ? I'm surprised that any chain at all travels down that skinny pipe, and yes a bigger area for the chain to pyramid in will help, and a bigger ( much bigger) pipe will help as chain can pile up in there too. Stainless chain is much smoother and tends to pile up less and spread out more. Look for a bigger pipe, it's a lot cheaper than stainless chain !
Fixed!
Bigger pipe feeding back to deep section of locker now working perfectly.
Thanks Woko.
In the wash up I went with merbau for the gunwale cap. I found some well seasoned boards locally , but it still bleeds like a wounded beast where cut or drilled
Had the luxury years ago of well-seasoned Merbau (now everything is freshly cut) sourced from a mate who's company made external staircases. There was never an issue with bleeding. When it was cut it looked like a polished steel surface, and felt like it weighed the same. Now we just have to live with our First-World problems...bleeding and long supply times!. Just be thankful you're not a Ukrainian citizen waiting for the Russians to stop bombing (liberating) them and all their infrastructure coming into winter.
The merbau garden edging from Bunnings I cut into strips for edging in the cabin looks superb. It's coated in clear and I reckon I prefer it to teak now.
Select to expand quoteGKandCC said..
Had the luxury years ago of well-seasoned Merbau (now everything is freshly cut) sourced from a mate who's company made external staircases. There was never an issue with bleeding. When it was cut it looked like a polished steel surface, and felt like it weighed the same. Now we just have to live with our First-World problems...bleeding and long supply times!. Just be thankful you're not a Ukrainian citizen waiting for the Russians to stop bombing (liberating) them and all their infrastructure coming into winter.
I totally agree 1st world problem. I've worked with kwila many times and know what I was in for, I investigated lots of alternative timber & composites, nothing comes near it for durability & price. The decks & topsides need repainting after the grinding and welding, so let it bleed, it will stop eventually.
Removed the dead calorifier.
Put new docklines on (the old ones were shameful).
Compiled a To-Do List of tasks to complete before heading south early January.
As I get older, I can only lift about half the weight I used to lift 10 years ago.
So, I installed a 3t winch, in the workshop out of the weather, which I can hook up to a spare halyard & now lift my outboard out & onto my ducky with almost no effort at all!!
It has a manual & wireless control so I can operate from the ducky in the water or from the dock.
I can also lift heavy loads aboard from the dock if needed - a motorbike maybe!!
