Select to expand quotecammd said..
Started to clean up the deck using the Semco system
It definitely looks like it works
Select to expand quoteLazzz said..
As I get older, I can only lift about half the weight I used to lift 10 years ago.
So, I installed a 3t winch, in the workshop out of the weather, which I can hook up to a spare halyard & now lift my outboard out & onto my ducky with almost no effort at all!!
It has a manual & wireless control so I can operate from the ducky in the water or from the dock.
I can also lift heavy loads aboard from the dock if needed - a motorbike maybe!!
Lazz I recon you done well to get the outboard in that hatch, but a motor bike?
New tiller and tiller extension.
New hatch slides - probably finish these off with teak trim glued on.
Frame for new cabin top hatch - side fore and aft timbers are under sized at present they will finish 30x20. Cut access opening in cabin top 515mm wide about 570mm long. Trim off top edge of top companionway hatch board.
Picked up 2005 Beta 13.5hp 2 cyl diesel plus gbx and panel, loom, 4 new mounts for $1200 a few months ago. Good external condition as per photos. Saw and heard it running and changing gear before purchasing. In shed now going through full service. Install first ? or ? next year.
All the best for the festive season to all.
On the gearbox just forward from the filler is an air vent. Unscrew it and check that it's free and not sealed with paint.
Select to expand quoteRamona said..
On the gearbox just forward from the filler is an air vent. Unscrew it and check that it's free and not sealed with paint.
You've seen a Bukh recon before haven't you. 
Select to expand quoteRamona said..
On the gearbox just forward from the filler is an air vent. Unscrew it and check that it's free and not sealed with paint.
Ok thanks have added that to the to-do list.
Will have Taren Pt service the gbx - 2 new seals, clean out and check, re-fill, clutch load test. Also will take the injectors to them.
Always a new trick, who would have thought that the new gunnel wouldn't match the old stanchion bases. Epoxy bog to the rescue
Ps. If your ever using kwila ( merbau) Oxalic acid shifts the stain while it's purple, if it sets and turns red like rust stain neat bleach is the answer
That can't have been easy. I used that for decking years ago and went through so many drill bits and saw blades. It should last though.
Select to expand quotetarquin1 said..
That can't have been easy. I used that for decking years ago and went through so many drill bits and saw blades. It should last though.
Harder than a bulls forehead !
Fitted the windvane, need some new control lines and then figure out how to use it.
Select to expand quotecammd said..
Fitted the windvane, need some new control lines and then figure out how to use it.
Easy to use. Watch a few videos. 6mm Spectra for the control lines. Once you use this you will be hooked!
Select to expand quotecammd said..
Fitted the windvane, need some new control lines and then figure out how to use it.
Well Done on the installation over the transom steps. I guess you would had to use longer support tube, to get the clearance. What distance is it out from the transom and what brand is your boat?
Tiller or wheeled steering?
Cheers, Mike.
Select to expand quoteBeamReach said..cammd said..
Fitted the windvane, need some new control lines and then figure out how to use it.
Well Done on the installation over the transom steps. I guess you would had to use longer support tube, to get the clearance. What distance is it out from the transom and what brand is your boat?
Tiller or wheeled steering?
Cheers, Mike.
It is a good installation, it was done by the previous owner, I just bolted it back on. It's been in my shed for nearly 2.years now. The boat is a Radford centre cockpit so the control lines will be quite long to reach the wheel. I will post a video wgen I try it out.
Lucky You to get a Windvane with the boat..
If you need and tips on fine tuning, Ramona is the Expert with Windvanes..
Look forward to see it up and running.
The local shipwright has constructed some hinged removable doors for my companion way, my job was the sealer/gloss and fitting the lock and barrel bolts which I think took longer than the actual construction side!
I'm on the slips till tomorrow. Today I applied Prop One to the prop. I wasted a fair bit of the primer. I should have only used half and would have some left over! Just as well it's cheap. The screw driver is just there to rotate the shaft and keep my fingers away from the sticky stuff!
The bottom of the skeg has an extra piece added to stop ropes hooking on the lower bearing. It's made of wood and I faired it in epoxy and silica today to repair where it had obviously suffered a few hits. Next time on the slips I might extend the lower edge back a bit. That gap is obviously whats stopping me from getting on the plane!
It will be interesting to see how the Prop One lasts?
Your motor is shaft driven? Not a sail drive set-up?
The support leg is large, very different to my shaft,as imine doesn't have support from above,although my shaft is much shorter.
The gap near the base of the rudder? Is that a standard design with your boat design?
How does the gap near the base of the rudder prevent the boat getting on a plane?
Cheers
Select to expand quoteRamona said..
The bottom of the skeg has an extra piece added to stop ropes hooking on the lower bearing. It's made of wood and I faired it in epoxy and silica today to repair where it had obviously suffered a few hits. Next time on the slips I might extend the lower edge back a bit. That gap is obviously whats stopping me from getting on the plane!
Wonder how the bottom of the skeg got dinged without damaging the lower leading edge of the rudder which is lower?
Select to expand quoteBeamReach said..
It will be interesting to see how the Prop One lasts?
Your motor is shaft driven? Not a sail drive set-up?
The support leg is large, very different to my shaft,as imine doesn't have support from above,although my shaft is much shorter.
The gap near the base of the rudder? Is that a standard design with your boat design?
How does the gap near the base of the rudder prevent the boat getting on a plane?
Cheers
There wouldn't be any humour here would there?
Select to expand quoteRamona said..
The bottom of the skeg has an extra piece added to stop ropes hooking on the lower bearing. It's made of wood and I faired it in epoxy and silica today to repair where it had obviously suffered a few hits. Next time on the slips I might extend the lower edge back a bit. That gap is obviously whats stopping me from getting on the plane!
Think most of them have a bronze casting that makes up the bottom of the skeg/lower bearing (well most the ones I've seen do at least)
Select to expand quotecambid said..Ramona said..
Think most of them have a bronze casting that makes up the bottom of the skeg/lower bearing (well most the ones I've seen do at least)
That certainly looks a better arrangement. That gap I have is just begging for a stray rope. This boat was finished off in Adelaide from a bare hull and there are a few differences from a mark 1. The piece of timber added is probably 75mm long and is thinner than that bronze casting. I shall have to get creative next time I'm on the slips.
Select to expand quoteBeamReach said..
It will be interesting to see how the Prop One lasts?
Your motor is shaft driven? Not a sail drive set-up?
The support leg is large, very different to my shaft,as imine doesn't have support from above,although my shaft is much shorter.
The gap near the base of the rudder? Is that a standard design with your boat design?
How does the gap near the base of the rudder prevent the boat getting on a plane?
Cheers
The Prop one should last the same as any of the other silicon gloss finish products. Much will depend on how well the prop can avoid damage from objects in the water coming in contact and damaging the soft finish.
The support strut is longer and thicker than usual and the propeller seems to be deeper and further back than most SS34's. The engine is just behind the mast but is probably 200mm further back than most mark 1's and the shaft behind the gearbox is short.
Sail drive ss 34 ,motor under the companion way
SS 34 mid mounted motor (above the keel)
Shaft approximately 1.6 m long. No P bracket
Select to expand quoteJolene said..
Sail drive ss 34 ,motor under the companion way
SS 34 mid mounted motor (above the keel)
Shaft approximately 1.6 m long. No P bracket
Thanks for sharing..There can be many variables of the placement of an engine with a SS 34.
You would think the weight distribution could alter the performance of the hull. I guess this is offset by heavier weight distributed in the keel?
Also, how do manoeuvre/fit an engine centre of the keel or just behind the mast?
You would need plenty of room down the center aisle, to roll the engine on a removalist trolley.
I found it a challenge getting my reconditioned 12hp Yanmar through a narrow companion way, with the use of a mini winch off the boom, of my Duncanson 29. We had to remove the exhaust,starter motor and the alternator.Once we got it past the companionway,it was a matter of swinging it slightly aft..
Without the use if the mini winch, it would have been impossible to lift the weight...
How do you lift an engine when it is positioned much further forward? There is nowhere you can rig up a mini winch... Is a halyard on the mast used in these circumstances?
Cheers
