late one Had to drop into the boat thought Id take this one
lots of cleaning tomorrow
Could I suggest fitting this new hatch...saving you the elbow grease! ? funny I was looking at your hatch before you posted your next comment. I can't see the use of a opening hatch that doesn't open towards the bow that would give me the **s big time.
www.vertex-marine.com/ss-316-products/hatch/low-profile-deck-hatch/
Select to expand quoteHG02 said..
late one Had to drop into the boat thought Id take this one
lots of cleaning tomorrow
HG02 said..
I was just looking at my hatch cover and seeing how crazed it is and wondered if you could sand that out with some very fine sand paper 2000 grit
Ive done that before on computer CPU water blocks some time you buy them and there not clear and sanding them with 2000 grit and a polish after and there clear as a bell
Any one tried that or does the craze go right through the acrylic
Select to expand quotesouthace said..
Could I suggest fitting this new hatch...saving you the elbow grease! ? funny I was looking at your hatch before you posted your next comment. I can't see the use of a opening hatch that doesn't open towards the bow that would give me the **s big time.
www.vertex-marine.com/ss-316-products/hatch/low-profile-deck-hatch/
HG02 said..
late one Had to drop into the boat thought Id take this one
lots of cleaning tomorrow
HG02 said..
I was just looking at my hatch cover and seeing how crazed it is and wondered if you could sand that out with some very fine sand paper 2000 grit
Ive done that before on computer CPU water blocks some time you buy them and there not clear and sanding them with 2000 grit and a polish after and there clear as a bell
Any one tried that or does the craze go right through the acrylic
South Ace do you want my address so you can send it ?
Been watching his vid on color matching gel coat
IMHO, The easiest thing would be to replace that hatch like for like. Of course a shiny new hatch would look great, but it would cost you about one Boat Dollar and you have a very particular aperture there. In my experience, matching - finding the right hatch - is very difficult. I had one choice, pretty much and had to go through the hassle of getting one, taking it to the boat, then returning it because the corner radius was wrong.
From my reading, whether hatch opens fore or aft depends on a few things like whether you race and want to stuff sails down quickly, or cruise and never want your hatch blowing open with green water. As far as air flow goes, some say the air in their boat flows foreward and out the foreward hatch. I dunno. But I wanted security and to be able to crack it open in the rain.
Select to expand quoteDrRog said..
IMHO, The easiest thing would be to replace that hatch like for like. Of course a shiny new hatch would look great, but it would cost you about one Boat Dollar and you have a very particular aperture there. In my experience, matching - finding the right hatch - is very difficult. I had one choice, pretty much and had to go through the hassle of getting one, taking it to the boat, then returning it because the corner radius was wrong.
From my reading, whether hatch opens fore or aft depends on a few things like whether you race and want to stuff sails down quickly, or cruise and never want your hatch blowing open with green water. As far as air flow goes, some say the air in their boat flows foreward and out the foreward hatch. I dunno. But I wanted security and to be able to crack it open in the rain.
It is quite functional as it is I can easily get a price later on to buy some lexan to replace it. would be simpler its worked for over 35 years as it is .I wish I could work as well as it does
Plus my Rigger is hungry and he needs some money
Select to expand quoteJolene said..cisco said..
I have had the injectors reconditioned and taken great care with refitting them. Then I have adjusted the valve clearances and done all the other servicing items around the engine short of taking the cylinder head off.
I think the engine is running better than previously but I feel that it could still be better. Maybe I am being a bit too fussy.
I will go to the boat today, run the engine and take a short movie of it with sound and post it up here for opinions on it.
Hi Cisco,
With the motor running at above low idle, crack off one injector , slowly from just cracked off to fully cracked off
Listen to see if engine runs:
a) drastically worse
b) not much change
Now try the other cylinder.
Doing this can help determine if it is just one cylinder that is being effected or both.
If one cylinder is noticeably different( the one with not much change) swap injectors and see if that swaps the bad running to the other cylinder.
If the cylinder swaps then the problem may just be the injector.
I did exactly that before I pulled the injectors to see which cylinder was running weaker but I lost track of which injector came from which cylinder. 
Select to expand quotecisco said..
I have had the injectors reconditioned and taken great care with refitting them. Then I have adjusted the valve clearances and done all the other servicing items around the engine short of taking the cylinder head off.
I think the engine is running better than previously but I feel that it could still be better. Maybe I am being a bit too fussy.
I will go to the boat today, run the engine and take a short movie of it with sound and post it up here for opinions on it.
Well I did go to the boat today and attempt the above.
First thing I had to do was shift one wire from a + to a -. That stopped the engine alarm going off when the battery is de-isolated.
Then I checked the circuit integrity of the water heat alarm. Proved.
Cranked her up and away she goes, still knocks on start up. Normal
I gave her a bit of a rev to test responsiveness to governor arm and shut her down after confirming water flow through the raw water pump by feeling the temperature of the pump cover plate.
Then I noticed my previously clean and dry engine bilge was now wet with a liquid that had a very black surface. Hello, what is this and where is it coming from.
Observatrion proved this sequence of photos. The lower banjo connection is cracked and leaking out at about a sump full of oil every 5 minutes or less.
Why Yanmar did this has got me beat.
So ,that had me a bit snookered as far as running her up to temperature and then possibly a basin trial (running her around the river).
You have to be methodical and you have to be persistent if you want to be successful at this yachting thing.
I had hoped to post a vid of my engine running.
This is a vid of what I am aiming for.
It's like a toy engine! It seems tiny compared to my Volvo 13hp Mb7b then I realized it does not have the enormous flywheel on the front. Certainly have good access in your engine room though.
Select to expand quoteRamona said..
It's like a toy engine! It seems tiny compared to my Volvo 13hp Mb7b then I realized it does not have the enormous flywheel on the front. Certainly have good access in your engine room though.
The trouble is Ramona its not red on Ciscos either
Select to expand quoteRamona said..
It's like a toy engine! It seems tiny compared to my Volvo 13hp Mb7b then I realized it does not have the enormous flywheel on the front. Certainly have good access in your engine room though.
At 662 cc it is little more than a motor bike engine.
The access is great except for the stbd (exhaust) side of the engine. If I want to take the manifold off I will have to unbolt the mounts from the beds, slide a stout piece of ply under them and slide the engine about 50 mm to port.
Similarly if I want to take the head off I will have to slide the engine forward as there is not enough room below the cockpit floor for it to clear. This is why I am hoping that injector, injector pump and valve clearance servicing will be sufficient to get this engine running sweetly.
It is not far off it now but due to the leaking oil line I have not been able to run it up to temperature yet. I will go to Repco today and see if they have banjo fittings. If not it will have to be tomorrow.
It has got some RED bits on it HG.
Select to expand quotecisco said..Ramona said..
It's like a toy engine! It seems tiny compared to my Volvo 13hp Mb7b then I realized it does not have the enormous flywheel on the front. Certainly have good access in your engine room though.
At 662 cc it is little more than a motor bike engine.
The access is great except for the stbd (exhaust) side of the engine. If I want to take the manifold off I will have to unbolt the mounts from the beds, slide a stout piece of ply under them and slide the engine about 50 mm to port.
Similarly if I want to take the head off I will have to slide the engine forward as there is not enough room below the cockpit floor for it to clear. This is why I am hoping that injector, injector pump and valve clearance servicing will be sufficient to get this engine running sweetly.
It is not far off it now but due to the leaking oil line I have not been able to run it up to temperature yet. I will go to Repco today and see if they have banjo fittings. If not it will have to be tomorrow.
It has got some RED bits on it HG.
You could check out a hydraulics person they might have a oring style fitting in metric that fits you engine both ends and then you could run a hose
Hi Cisco
I don't know if you have seen this site before or if it applies to your engine www.lsm-diesel.dk/2012/yanmar/pdf/motordele_2qm15.pdf
I wonder if in some applications for this engine they run a external oil cooler between the 2 banjo bolts
Regards Don
Before you even think about taking the head off Cisco I would dose your engine with this snake oil
costeffective.com.au/product/ftc-decarbonizer/
It's expensive but very effective.
Wired in my lovely old power hungry fridge unit today Ill add Ice over the summer when I want to use it nothing like a ice cold beer.
taped up my port light holes after sanding a tapper on the fiberglass .
a then cleaned all the dust out of the forward cabin and the main cabin
and wiped down the roof
Select to expand quoteHG02 said..
you could even add an extra oil filter as well
That is just a tad beyond the K.I.S.S. principle.
Select to expand quotecisco said..HG02 said..
you could even add an extra oil filter as well
That is just a tad beyond the K.I.S.S. principle.
your right Cisco
The decarboniser used to have instructions for a much more serious dose than 1:1600. That ratio is for regular use in the diesel I think. I think I used about a litre in a small tank [I had 4 tanks and could individually select]. Probably 1:100 or so to crack the glazing and clear the rings. After my experience I told my mate who owned an engineering supply business. He tried it in his Arona and was so impressed he started stocking the stuff.
Select to expand quoteHG02 said..
late one Had to drop into the boat thought Id take this one
lots of cleaning tomorrow
HG,
I have been looking at adding a ventilator on my front hatch area. Does your vent seal on the hole through the deck or on the deck surface? I was wondering how to get a good seal on an antislip surface.
Thanks
Hi Fiesta
The boat I race on has the vent fitted to the hatch cover itself
I don't suppose that is a option
Regards Don
Select to expand quoteDonk107 said..
Hi Fiesta
The boat I race on has the vent fitted to the hatch cover itself
I don't suppose that is a option
Regards Don
Similar to this
Select to expand quoteFiesta said..
HG02 said..
late one Had to drop into the boat thought Id take this one
lots of cleaning tomorrow
HG,
I have been looking at adding a ventilator on my front hatch area. Does your vent seal on the hole through the deck or on the deck surface? I was wondering how to get a good seal on an antislip surface.
Thanks
I have seem them fitted like Donk Suggested , But I sealed mine on the non skid Don't think Ill have a problem with it
I used silicon and let it go off a little before I screwed done the ventilator vent base . I did seal the cut out for the through deck fitting
My hatch is a fibreglass custom made for the deck - Don same as your previous Spacesailer 20. The hatch has a non slip surface over the whole area so was wondering if the sealant would fill the small gaps between the non slip surface and the flat surface of the vent.
I was looking at the solar powered units as an option. No problem with enough sunshine up here.
Sounds like making a bed of sealant might be OK.
HG let me know if its all dry under the vent after the next heavy rain you get!
Thanks
Just finished a repair to the rudder. It was split across the bottom so I ground it down from about 3 inches up from the bottom glassed it all round then filled and faired sprayed and rubbed and polished and the result is just beautiful.
Nice Job Water pistol ,Looks like you have done this before.
Could you add what you used water pistol ( material wise I mean not how many stubbies it took)
That is a seriously good looking job. Looks like there was some wet and dry time in getting that finish.
