One side cut in they still need clearance for 3M 4200 sealant and squaring up included in the clearance
Ive turned the boat and came home for a bit of lunch before starting on the starboard side after see how far I get its marked out ready to go
The smaller port light is also not as high as the other two did not realize that till I started marking them out. But seem to fit ok . Lots more to do yet.
It will be a couple of weeks before there completed Id say
Ill make a fit a spacer inside to place on the spacer and mark and cut the outer ring depth and add my west red cedar to the sides and make a cover for the but ends next to the port light inner frames and I think after that I'm going to get pissed
Il order some of Bubbles777 brew 
< ill need these later 
Looks magic !
I admire your determination!
My advise now would be to sloop rig her.
Get the measurements for the chain plates from other SB H28 owners I'm sure they will be the same. The Dunc 37 also came as a ketch rig option which mine was when I brought it. The main mast remained in the same position and was not adjusted to suit each option.
Are you sure your idea didn't come from my boat? Next you will be putting round opening ports in the forward cabin section!
Select to expand quotesouthace said..
Are you sure your idea didn't come from my boat? Next you will be putting round opening ports in the forward cabin section!
I wonder how long that mast and rigging are?
Sand badck and fit the outer outer rings tomorrow . My cut was on the caution side meaning I have to take more off for the rings to fit in . I'm happy so far.
Should be fun chasing leaks cisco.
When not in use I'm going to make some plugs that fit into the outer ring for weather protection and also for storm covers.
I still have to make the spacers that go inside , once there made I reduce the outer rings depth and fit up .
Select to expand quoteSandS said..
looking good HG !!!!
Thank you SandS .I'm trying . I do live in forwards backwards land so I redo things a bit
Select to expand quoteandy59 said..
Nice job HG
Thanks Andy
I nearly had one stuff up , I didn't realize the smaller port lights were not as high . I just thought the length was different
between the large and smaller port lights. I ran a flick line along the cabin side only to find out when I double checked before I cut there was a difference in height between the larger and smaller port lights its only 20 mm but would have look a bit poor if I didn't correct it .
Replaced the batteries in the Tacktick wind transmitter. Now get the wind data at night.
Fitted the starboard side and started sanding back where the stove bulk head will go
Looks great HG
Scraped and sanded all the crappy old varnish around the hatch, galley and pot bulkheads
Select to expand quoteandy59 said..
Looks great HG
Scraped and sanded all the crappy old varnish around the hatch, galley and pot bulkheads
Looking good Andy
Select to expand quoteFreeRadical said..
Replaced the batteries in the Tacktick wind transmitter. Now get the wind data at night.
Nice photo.
Can I ask what method of climbing is being employed here? How are you holding the camera?
Replaced the rusty old CQR and 10m chain with a new 35 lb Manson and 34m new 8mm chain. A pleasure to handle compared to the old chain, the roll bar helps in handling the anchor, and it was far harder to break out then the old CQR.
Quite surprised the anchor fits easily under the pulpit without being articulated. Shackle is in the trip line slot; will have to move it to the static hole I think because it came up onto the roller upside down then fell off the roller. I suspect that will help.
Select to expand quoteHG02 said..andy59 said..
Looks great HG
Scraped and sanded all the crappy old varnish around the hatch, galley and pot bulkheads
Looking good Andy
Thanks HG (by the way that was meant to be port bulkheads not pot bulkheads.)
Select to expand quoteDrRog said..
Replaced the rusty old CQR and 10m chain with a new 35 lb Manson and 34m new 8mm chain. A pleasure to handle compared to the old chain, the roll bar helps in handling the anchor, and it was far harder to break out then the old CQR.
Quite surprised the anchor fits easily under the pulpit without being articulated. Shackle is in the trip line slot; will have to move it to the static hole I think because it came up onto the roller upside down then fell off the roller. I suspect that will help.
I'd be removing that SS swivel you have at the top there Dr Rog, it's the perfect weak link in your system and it's not necessary!
Swivels are only really required on permanent moorings with very short scopes.
Just my $42 worth. PS the safe working load is only 1350kg
Select to expand quoteandy59 said..HG02 said..andy59 said..
Looks great HG
Scraped and sanded all the crappy old varnish around the hatch, galley and pot bulkheads
Looking good Andy
Thanks HG (by the way that was meant to be port bulkheads not pot bulkheads.)
Sounds like you were multi tasking Andy sand paper in one hand and a cold beer in the other
cant wait to see the final result Andy
Select to expand quotenswsailor said..
I'd be removing that SS swivel you have at the top there Dr Rog, it's the perfect weak link in your system and it's not necessary!
Swivels are only really required on permanent moorings with very short scopes.
Just my $42 worth. PS the safe working load is only 1350kg
I thought someone would spot that, NSW. Thanks for the heads up. I have heard that swivels are often the weak points, if used, and I didn't particularly like the way it came over the bow roller. The thing is, it seemed to be the strongest thing I could get through the 8mm chain link at the time. The rated shackles have thicker pins so the biggest I could get through was tiny and rated to 500kg. At the time I couldn't find a decent sized standard shackle - I think Twitworths was out of the size I wanted. Come to think of it, I'm not sure why I didn't use the shackle that was on my old set up which was also 8mm chain; I'll take a look when I get back on.
But on your point, from memory the safe working load of the swivel is 850 which I think is in the vicinity of the chain. The problem, I read, is the leverage on them; which is why I got one that has a double articulation - I can't imagine it side loading with two swivels. Anyway, the length of the main section is the potential problem and I think the KISS principle probably rules here and means a standard bow shackle. But I do prefer quality / rated gear and those standard shackles don't exactly fill me with confidence.
Final fitting of my stove bulkhead bought it home to put some thinned epoxy on its edge ready to glass in . Love daylight saving
Mexicans need it
Select to expand quoteRamona said..FreeRadical said..
Replaced the batteries in the Tacktick wind transmitter. Now get the wind data at night.
Nice photo.
Can I ask what method of climbing is being employed here? How are you holding the camera?
Free climb! Actually up on the main with the spinnaker as safety. Gopro with a short pole handle, safety line to the chair. Fiddly little job replacing the batteries so it was lowered down for the others to do. I stayed up there taking selfies.
cut out my port light spacers need to open up the cut out deliberately made it tight. \
Next curving them to the same as the port light frame with more out side edge which Ill reduce down to 12 mm so my cedar will rest on the spacer and butt up to the port light frame
This is what Im trying to describe my cedar will rest on the routed side of the spacer and Ill make 12 mm ply strips epoxied to the cabin side so the cedar can be fix to the cabin ( I have 10 mm thick 100 mm wide V joint western red cedar lining the cabin sides)
Once there sanded down so the out ring can slide into the spacer and the cabin cut out I can epoxy the spacer to the cabin side and finish off by sanding down for a good fit,. Once there a sung fit I will glue them in with 3M 4200 and rcew in the retaining screws on the outer rings
Im using boat cote E glue thicken epoxy . from what Ive read you dont over clamp it when using it.
Next step will be finishing off the cabin side paint work .
Also once this is done I can fix my western red cedar to the cabin sides ( it will have a 12mm gap between the cabin fiber glass sides and the cedar Ill fit in some insulation and also so wiring for lights in that space .
last step is making a nice trim piece to cover the but joins against the cedar and port light frame and Then 3M 4200 the port light inner frame to the outer ring they slide inside each other .
Also epoxied edges of my stove bulkhead with thinned epoxy ready to fit to the hull this weekend .
Select to expand quotecisco said..
She gonna look flash HG.
If I live long enough to see it cisco shes no Lucy but she makes me happy
Sanded and coated the rails on the cabin door slides on Thursday. Tomorrow I plan to sand Cabin top hand rails and recoat the door slides.
At the moment looking for the photos.
Finished off my spacers ready for thinned epoxy. Once there dry Ill glue them into the cabin sides and sand any miss match between the cabin port light cut out and the spacer then touch up with thinned epoxy round the edges.
My work mate dropped in to see the the cabin sides, hes going to finish off the cabin side paint work before the final fit of the port lights.
Once I have painted the spacers today, Ill head down to the boat and epoxy the stove bulk head in and clean the boat out inside its a bloody mess . So maybe tomorrow I can also fix some 12 mm marine ply to the inside of the cabin to make ready for the western red cedar.
I still have not opened the cedar pack I hope its as good a quality as they said it would be .
epoxied spacers done
Stupid man I am I forgot to cut some 12 mm ply strips to do the same thing panic stations see if I can get it done before the thinned epoxy goes off 
Sorry HG , I thought I new what you were doing but, what are the ply things for ?
