Fix the stove bulk head to the hull only one layer so far Ill add another tomorrow morning to me I seem to have had a nice epoxy session Sort of like driving a space ship from another planet for me anyway
thanks HG i think i,m with you now ..... packer required due to extra internal wall lining thickness? Windows selected to accommodate extra wall thickness?
Looks great HG.
By the way these carbon ceramic blades worked like a hot knife through butter when I cut a hole to install my bulkhead compass.
Pulled all the lining off the Ceiling and the cabin sides.
Still a bit more sanding to be done I love sanding above my head
The great thing about sanding above your head is no one knows if you have dandruff or not Andy
Well I stuck them bad boys in both sides
I managed both sides ok and then cleaned out the forward cabin and scrubbed it (Aldi clamps don't squeeze them to tight they break the one on the hard left I mean )
Next in there is two pack under coat . Ill see if I can do a some after work during the week a couple of hours a night should do it.
Tomorrow I'm going back to work for a rest
HG that is magnificent !!! You are a very patent person ,and I hope you have many years of enjoyment from her when to the sailing stage !!!!!
The posts loaded are an inspiration to the rest of the sailing community also !
Hi HG
She is looking good
What is the piece of rope for that hangs from the anchor well for
Regards Don
I could have squeezed hard with my thumb and index finger to be honest Loose change but they only had to hold it in place so I was careful with the other couple I had. The other clamps I got from Bunnings in a pack for $15 they worked just right for this job the handels are now covered in epoxy but they will still work OK.
Removing the lining from the cabin revealed bolts holding the cabin top rails had corroded. So they had to be removed, of course thats after I spent last week oiling them They're obviously not 316 stainless, not magnetic, maybe 304???
Stainless wire brush those bolts and re use them, soak the unexposed teak with linseed oil and bolt it back in.
Nothing wrong with 304 s/s. It is more malleable than 316 s/s but it does stain.
I used 304 s/s 12 mm wire to re-rig my 42 ft IOR 2 tonner some years ago upon the recommendation of the rigger as a stronger and longer lasting as well as a more economical material to use.
It will not stay as shiny as 316 s/s due to not having as much nickel in the metal but it will not work harden and therefore become brittle as soon as 316 s/s, or so I am told.
If I need to be corrected on that, fire away anybody.
What is your advice LooseChange??
I have no advice, mechanically 304 and 316 are identical, both having a tensile strength of 515 MPa and as you point out, 304 has a lower nickel content, although both will exibit tea staining.
Thanks for the advice, one thing I will do for sure is buy a stainless wire brush, I never even knew there was such a thing, but now you mention it, it makes perfect sense, why would you use a wire brush with little bits of steel flinging off to rust all over your boat!
Those windows look absolutely frigging marvelous HG !!!!!!
I think if I were in you shoes I would be spending a large percentage of my future standing staring out my new port holes !!!!!!
Enjoy. !!!
Thanks Guys Im sort of looking forward to when I can put some thing in where did you go on your sailing boat .Today but its a bit far off yet Ill get these port light in and gimbal the stove and take Dirftwood for a motor into port philip soon
Dont start rushing it HG , you are doing such a good job , and we are enjoing the ride .
But having said that, rigg her when suitable , and enjoy.