This was a big effort for me being an electronics engineer not a shipwright .....
The old galley sink rusted through, I noticed items in the cupboard below wet all the time! I found a kitchen sink at a boat shop but not as deep as I would have liked, to allow for rock and roll at sea. It has to do.
I used a multi-tool running on 12V boat batteries to expand the existing hole to fit the new sink. Used cork floor tiles from Bunnings to do the new bench top. Really easy to cut with a Stanley knife even around the curves. Then multiple coats of polyurethane to make it glossy and pretty.
It might have been some cheap Vodka we had that finally went through the bottom of the old sink.
Still scraping and sanding.
At least the hole in the cabin roof is ready to close up. The new hatch has gone in subsequent to this photo.
Been lucky to have had a month without any rain.
Good idea with the cork tiles Trek, never seen that done before.
Its good when it doesn't rain Simplicity, you know the old saying, make hay while the sun shines.
Just got the nod that the sail wardrobe is being delivered, eek, all the various components are coming in for the last 6 weeks stage.
I went for furlers on both the headsail and gennaker with a snuffer for the kite and the staysail on hanks for the inner forestay.
The following pic is a shot of the facnor flat deck furler from a sistership for the headsail, I wanted as much luff length as possible, I hope they are as good as some reports make out. Note the drum is made with a flat webbing, vs the typical rope . Tight, but neat !
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Edit: sorry I don'know how to fix this stupid bloody upside down issue .
Edit edit: Ahah! Is that better?
I did that shaggy trust me! But my iPad kept trying to keep it strait and level! Like trying to read a gimmbled compass upside down! Hmmmm
I know that problem!! It's like when you're trying to read with an iPad lying down and it keeps rotating the screen upright...grr.
I am trying to keep the boat single handed capable, hence the furlers. I even girled out and went for an electric winch for the main halyard. On the 12.50, the 4 winches all sit on the cabin roof, none on the cockpit sides , so with the wheels I'll have to use the auto helm to set sail trim or tacking when singlehanded . The traveller though is double ended and is right next to each wheel. Shot of cockpit showing winches . Unfortunately, the electric winch does block the rear starboard cabin door from opening fully.
Can't wait this is in Combrit .
Huddy blell Baggyshaxter, this is going to be one awesome yacht.
Great furler set up on the bow and a good idea that you have hanked on for the inner forestay. That gives you some good latitude for heavier airs if you have two or even three sails that fit that luff length. Also good for creating the speed slot between fore and inner fore sails.
Re the electric winches:- Be sure that one day the electrics are going to fail so before you authorise the purchase of the winches it would be a good idea to ensure they can be manually overridden.
I see that the brand is Harken which have a good reputation. Are Harken yankee made?? From a past experience with a Lewmar "self tailing" winch, I would never buy any of their products.
I don't think you have declared what her name will be yet. Hint hint.
If the thought of doing next year's Brisbane to Gladstone Race has crossed your mind, please remember that I am the first one to put his hand up for it.
Jode5 has done 19 Bris to Gladdys so far and I reckon he will be up for his 20th next year and would really like to have a good competitor in the placings.
P.S. :- In the above photo, why is the toilet paper roll just inside the companionway?? Is that for people on deck who have never been on a yacht going as fast as this one and they crap their pants??
Keep up the good work and if you would like some help with final details when the yacht has landed let me know. I am only 4 hours from Brisbane.
Hi Cisco,
Yacht name will be Fusion. Brisbane to Gladstone in 2016...mmmm. that I could be talked into I reckon. Yes to manual override.
The headsail and staysail go to barber haulers, then to the rear set of winches, which is a new setup for me.
I am used to cars on tracks, so I am looking forward to the tuning capability transitioning between sails.
It was funny regards the toilet paper, we had it down to protect the brand new boat, and of course it all stuck to your shoes on the dewy deck (this was early) . Ended up with wet toilet paper all over the deck, made a horrific mess.
Agree re: Lewmars, put a set on the existing boat, and one fell apart and spat the pawl over the side on me, not impressed.
Edit: Sorry, just read the reference to staysail. Yes, this is the cool part, can it three sail reach?? Will be good if I can.
added another coat on both masts and I just masked up the booms after a rub down and gave them both a coat another tomorrow on both booms.
Ill do the boom properly next winter as Id like to sort out the the reefing system and a few other things this summer
Hey Shaggs shes looking magic !!!!!!!!! those barber haulers will be good ..... we have been experimenting with a similar thing while using an oversize #1 ...... they work a treat !!
how is the excitement level now ? building ..... out of 10 ? im guessing > 7
Hi Cisco,
Yacht name will be Fusion. Brisbane to Gladstone in 2016...mmmm. that I could be talked into I reckon.
Plenty of time for yacht preparation and crew work up, so let's make it a date subject to Mary from the Dairy not giving birth.
Edit: Sorry, just read the reference to staysail. Yes, this is the cool part, can it three sail reach?? Will be good if I can.
I think "Fusion" being such a modern yacht will have plenty to teach all who sail on her. Best not to pre-empt anything, just go out and play with her and see what she likes.
Honoured be I will if in the playing with I be invited.
painted my booms second coat and drove down to the boat and started cleaning thew gull Chit off my deck Then fitted a 60 watt solar panel to keep my batteries happy and my pocket so they last longer
Tonight pulled the Furlex 100s apart cleaned and counted the balls inside the races top swivel tonight have to find the right grease tomorrow
This was a big effort for me being an electronics engineer not a shipwright .....
The old galley sink rusted through, I noticed items in the cupboard below wet all the time! I found a kitchen sink at a boat shop but not as deep as I would have liked, to allow for rock and roll at sea. It has to do.
I used a multi-tool running on 12V boat batteries to expand the existing hole to fit the new sink. Used cork floor tiles from Bunnings to do the new bench top. Really easy to cut with a Stanley knife even around the curves. Then multiple coats of polyurethane to make it glossy and pretty.
It might have been some cheap Vodka we had that finally went through the bottom of the old sink.
Looks awesome. Love the idea of the cork tiles. It looks great.
Went to go to boat but driven back by heavy rain and lightning overhead. Two hours later went out, mainly because it seemed my wife had dropped my wallet there last week. Found it.
Installed the reinforcing arms on each side of the dodger frame down to the coaming. Walking around the dodger is now sooooooooooo good!
Installed a few more press studs and moved a couple of fasteners in the rain in time for the southerly tonight.
Got absolutely soaked on the row home then jumped over a couple of little rivulets on the way back up the beach from a stormwater runoff lake at the back of the beach. 10 seconds later the rivulets were flowing and digging deeper. 30 seconds later they were a metre deep each and would have dragged you out into the bay and I wouldn't have got past. another 30 seconds and the river was 3 metres wide and a metre and half deep. Was impressive to watch. I've seen video of guys surfing 'river' waves created by a lake emptying into the sea.
Took Warana out of the water on the weekend, so now the work I have been wanting to do can get underway. After cleaning the hull, the first job was lifting the fiberglass sheet that coveres the laid timber deck. The layer of class can cause more problems than it fixes by allowing fresh water to seep between the glass and deck and so the rot begins! It was easy to lift from the timber and so far with the starboard side done the deck timbers look in better shape than I imagined.
High tide at Sorrento, mast off, ready for haul out:
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On the trailer getting ready for the journey:
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In the yard with a clean bum:
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Hey Shaggs shes looking magic !!!!!!!!! those barber haulers will be good ..... we have been experimenting with a similar thing while using an oversize #1 ...... they work a treat !!
how is the excitement level now ? building ..... out of 10 ? im guessing > 7
Hi SandS,
Yep, getting real now, I am currently booking flights for week 41 as the commissioning phase. Love to swap notes on setup, I'm not proud! Different view of the foredeck, the inner forestay is removable but you can just see the setup at the bottom of the pic. Roll on the next 6 weeks...
Have not wet my pants yet but getting close.
That is an excellent fore deck set up for anchoring. I have noticed the ocky cord with hook for holding the anchor locker lid open to prevent the wind from slamming it on your wrist/arm while you are sorting chain. (Though it is not engaged in the pic.)
The fore deck is very similar to what I have on Second Wind though not yet fitted with a bit of lashing to stop the lid slamming on my wrist which is still a tad sore from when I put her back out to anchor.
Keep those pics coming Shaggy.
Hey Shaggs shes looking magic !!!!!!!!! those barber haulers will be good ..... we have been experimenting with a similar thing while using an oversize #1 ...... they work a treat !!
how is the excitement level now ? building ..... out of 10 ? im guessing > 7
Hi SandS,
Yep, getting real now, I am currently booking flights for week 41 as the commissioning phase. Love to swap notes on setup, I'm not proud! Different view of the foredeck, the inner forestay is removable but you can just see the setup at the bottom of the pic. Roll on the next 6 weeks...
Awesome Shaggy
Hey Shaggs shes looking magic !!!!!!!!! those barber haulers will be good ..... we have been experimenting with a similar thing while using an oversize #1 ...... they work a treat !!
how is the excitement level now ? building ..... out of 10 ? im guessing > 7
Hi SandS,
Yep, getting real now, I am currently booking flights for week 41 as the commissioning phase. Love to swap notes on setup, I'm not proud! Different view of the foredeck, the inner forestay is removable but you can just see the setup at the bottom of the pic. Roll on the next 6 weeks...
nice looking prodder set up , what acer have you got to start with ? ........
so the inner for-stay set up, how does that work ? is that to stop the mast pumping in a sea or can you run a jib cutter rig styling ?.
is one of those attachment points for the down-haul for the symmetrical kite pole?
it must be sooooooooooooo nice to be thinking about owning and sailing a NEW yacht. no repairs or upgrades needed , for a while
thanks for the pics Shaggy , keep em coming !!!!!
Hi SandS,
The Aso is made with Superkote 90 155m2, aka 0.9 ounce. A bit on the heavy side, but to take advantage of that beam, I really don't want to be dropping the kite just when it is getting interesting. Uses a snuffer rather than a furler, but there is a 104m2 gennaker on a Profurl furler, you know the ones that stay on the sail when you drop it? Another new one for me.
Yes, the inner forestay is for sails, I went for a 26m2 staysail on hanks. The intent to change down gears as someone put it from the headsail at 44m2. The headsail is the same cloth, Hydranet and is on the furler you can see in the pic. As the wind picks up, it should be a matter of simply furling the headsail, and hauling up the staysail, or vice versa. As Cisco mentioned, I can go for a couple of hanked headsails, and also three sail reaching, wahoo!
No symmetrical pole for mine, that is another first for me. The left hand sheet you can see on the deck is the carbon sprit outhaul, it runs back through the rear of the sprit to a hardpoint on the other side of the pole opposite the sheet block. The next sheet is the staysail downhaul and inner forestay hard point. This is a really neat but complex setup that runs down into the spinnaker well (that is the chamber you can see behind the anchor well), I'll have to let you know when I go over how to commission how it all works again, I've forgotten how it all connects together.
Yep, you nailed it, one of the big appeals is exactly that, no major outlays except for the usual maintenance. It is pretty much optioned complete at delivery, I won't be able to afford anything like food let alone more boat spendy's for a while, and I think my better half would lynch me if I did! Like all of us poor yachties, this ended up taking a lot longer than I thought, this one has been 12 years to squirrel away the funds, so now being able to spend it is enormous fun.
It is sobering how much more you could spend though, for example I could easily add another 10 boat dollars to the NKE, or another 8 bd for a Code 0, (I only have one Code 5 gennaker) but I had to stop somewhere I suppose
I apologise to all Seabreezers, I don't want to hijack the thread, but it is hard not to answer some of the questions without rambling on a bit (character flaw methinks) . I hope this is not too annoying to anyone.
SB
Keep rambling that's fine!
I'm not a fan of those anchor winches. Had to rescue mates gin palace yesterday and needed to get the anchor out. Similar to the winch in the photo except I had no immediate access to the locker. Couple of feet in the chain links had rusted together and I could not get the chain out! some severe belting with a tool required. He has been in hospital for 12 months so it's had no use.
Hi SandS,
The Aso is made with Superkote 90 155m2, aka 0.9 ounce. A bit on the heavy side, but to take advantage of that beam, I really don't want to be dropping the kite just when it is getting interesting. Uses a snuffer rather than a furler, but there is a 104m2 gennaker on a Profurl furler, you know the ones that stay on the sail when you drop it? Another new one for me.
Yes, the inner forestay is for sails, I went for a 26m2 staysail on hanks. The intent to change down gears as someone put it from the headsail at 44m2. The headsail is the same cloth, Hydranet and is on the furler you can see in the pic. As the wind picks up, it should be a matter of simply furling the headsail, and hauling up the staysail, or vice versa. As Cisco mentioned, I can go for a couple of hanked headsails, and also three sail reaching, wahoo!
No symmetrical pole for mine, that is another first for me. The left hand sheet you can see on the deck is the carbon sprit outhaul, it runs back through the rear of the sprit to a hardpoint on the other side of the pole opposite the sheet block. The next sheet is the staysail downhaul and inner forestay hard point. This is a really neat but complex setup that runs down into the spinnaker well (that is the chamber you can see behind the anchor well), I'll have to let you know when I go over how to commission how it all works again, I've forgotten how it all connects together.
Yep, you nailed it, one of the big appeals is exactly that, no major outlays except for the usual maintenance. It is pretty much optioned complete at delivery, I won't be able to afford anything like food let alone more boat spendy's for a while, and I think my better half would lynch me if I did! Like all of us poor yachties, this ended up taking a lot longer than I thought, this one has been 12 years to squirrel away the funds, so now being able to spend it is enormous fun.
It is sobering how much more you could spend though, for example I could easily add another 10 boat dollars to the NKE, or another 8 bd for a Code 0, (I only have one Code 5 gennaker) but I had to stop somewhere I suppose
I apologise to all Seabreezers, I don't want to hijack the thread, but it is hard not to answer some of the questions without rambling on a bit (character flaw methinks) . I hope this is not too annoying to anyone.
SB
thanks Shaggs , sounds like a real good set up ! hope i can crew for you one day , looks like a fun yacht !!!!
happy daze !!!!
keep up the pics and commentary ,its great stuff !!!
First morning with the stripper! We are going to refinish with a two pack paint job that is low maintenance. She looks like new timber under the paint. Quite remarkable for a craft that is sixty years old.
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Stick with a single pack like Toplac etc. Two pack will crack if that's a normal carvel construction. Two pack does not like movement.
Guitz, you need "red-lead" !! you will have to get some from someone !!! i heard yesterday that the timber boat builders can still get it .
apparently there is a guy on the morning-ton peninsular that can get it .
i don't know who he is ,sorry .
but without a doubt RED- LEAD is required buy you .
cheers and happy scrapping
ps make yourself a long handled scrapper , you will love it!
Well I am a bit of a traditionalist and have a 5 gal tin of red lead so no shortage there, but the new formula epoxy / poly paint that they use at the wooden boat shop on all the couta boats, old and new, is flexible and well suited for use on wooden boats.
I used to hate the older two pack that allowed a small gap between the stiff paint layer and hull in some areas so fresh water could lie there. This is what kills wooden boats. Traditional oil paints can do this too in spots as it ages and gets brittle. The new epoxy formula primer soaks into the timber, and has a bug killer ingredient like red lead. Then there is a few layers of undercoat that is thicker allowing for sanding back to build a great finish. Then just finish off with two coats of the top coat. I have been looking at it for the past 5 years to see if its as good as they say and it's. I am not stripping below the water line and will do touch ups using the red lead, then a coat of pabco hydroseal that is tar based and the antifoul.
I would just use one of the aluminium based silver primers. If you need to do some minor filling on the under water bits mix some garden lime into the hydroseal till its a putty like consistency and smooth in.